(Part 3) Top products from r/watercooling

First, you need to check to see what model number you have for the Sapphire cards. I have two Sapphire Dual-X cards (11197-03-40g) and they do not make full cover waterblocks for them as they are non-reference. I use these.

That drive bay pump/res combo is nice but dual pumps are not necessary. If you like it and want it then by all means get it but just letting you know it is a little much for your application.

>Should i get 2 Rads?

Yes I would recommend it. In your case I would do a 240 or 280 in the front and a 240 or 280 up top. To cool your CPU and two GPU's you need a minimum of 360 radiator space. Your case cannot accommodate one 360 radiator (I believe). Personally, I would go with the 240 radiator up top and in the front. They are a lot more fan choices in the 120mm category than the 140mm category.
>Which fans can you recommend? Or can i even use my Fractal ones? (they are all 140mm)

You will need to change your fans as those are designed for your case. Fans with static pressure are used for radiators. If you go with 280 radiators, I would suggest this or this. If you need 120mm fans, there are a ton to choose from but I am partial to these

>Which fittings should i use?

Your choice completely. Use either barbs or compression fittings. Both get the job done. Compression fittings look nicer but they cost more. It is entirely a personal preference.

>What Tubes would make most sense (im not getting the sizes really :/)?

This is again a personal choice. Tubing size really makes little difference in actual temperatures. The most common size is 3/8 X 5/8 or 1/2 X 3/4. This numbering is 3/8 ID (inner diameter) X 5/8 OD (outer diameter). Based on the size of the tubing will determine what size fittings you need. These numbers need to match. Just remember that the thicker the tubing, the more rigid it will be and harder for tight bends.

>Do i want to have backplates for the GPUs or are they purely aesthetic?

Purely aesthetic. However, in some cases I have seen video cards sag or bend and backplates can help strengthen the cards.

>If i only get one rad, would it be more wise to top or front mount it?

I would advise against one radiator but if you did get one, I would put it in the front.

>Is a push-pull configuration alot more beneficial?

Although it is the most optimal configuration it really is not going to be a "game changer" in terms of temperature differences. Generally push-pull>push>pull but this can vary on the loop placement, the case, the components, etc. At most you may see a 3-5 degree difference among the different combinations and that is not going to make much difference for the bottom line.

Do I really need a deburrer for petg? I bought the drill bit from primo chill because I thought it would be handy.. not sure if I need to deburr on top of that?

You don’t need a deburrer. This is just to make the hard tubes not sharp on the ends so it won’t cut the o-rings in the fittings.

Should I buy gloves for when bending the tube?

You don’t have to. I don’t use gloves but if you want to play it safe and not get burnt then yea, get gloves.

Do you find it easier to hand-bend vs using some sort of mandrels?

Hand bending can be hard for a first timer but they do come out a lot nicer when hand bent. I would recommend getting a bending kit because the 90 degree angle bend is going to be your friend.

Trying to get any ideas of stuff that might be a good idea to have that might not be as obvious as the parts needed for the build..

You might need a drill.

Bending kit: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22341/too-134/Monsoon_Hardline_Pro_Mandrel_Kit_-_12_x_58_16mm.html?tl=g12c133s2087&id=nC9C9JEQ

XSPC Heavy Duty Hose Cutters: https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Heavy-Duty-Cutter-0-25mm/dp/B00ZQLKP0I

Heat gun: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22339/too-136/Monsoon_Hardline_Pro_Heatgun_w_Adapter.html?tl=g12c133s2087&id=nC9C9JEQ
Edit: what do you use to cut your petg? Hand saw? the XSPC cutter? a pipe cutter from local hardware store?

The parts you need for your custom loop check out our CLC: https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator/

Not sure how it's hard for you to fill this reservoir, but my particular model has two plugs at the very top corners that are perfect for filling. I just used a flex line tube fitting and screwed it on the outboard top corner of my reservoir (looking at the reservoir at the front, it would be the top right plug), unscrewed the other top corner plug for air pressure relief, connected a flex line tube with a funnel at the end, and filled up my reservoir with distilled water. The whole process only takes me about 5-10 minutes.

Here's what my particular reservoir model looks like:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EURG79W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since I have the return line that comes from my GPUs connected at the middle portion of my reservoir, and the pump feed line at the bottom corner, this made filling the reservoir quite an easy task for me since the leaves the top two corner plugs available for servicing purposes.

I have the following items for sale:

Timestamps

Item | Price | Description
---------|----------|----------
CORSAIR M65 Pro RGB | $49 Shipped | Brand new and still sealed
WD My Net Switch - 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | $16 Shipped | Only used for a week.
Generic Wireless Bluetooth Keyboard | $13 Shipped | BNIB.
EK-Supremacy EVO X99 - Nickel Plexi | $57 shipped | BNIB CPU Cooler. Does not include TIM / thermal grease: EK-TIM Ectotherm (1g)
Caselabs Mercury S8 Mounting Plate, Black, New | $9 shipped | NA.
Caselabs Mercury Flex-Bay Cover, Double Ventilated, New | $9.5 shipped |
ModRight Xtreme Super Large Anti-Static Mod-Mat Work and Assembly | $52 local pick up | I love this mat. However, I do not have space for it and have only used it once since I purchased it. This is for local pick up only.
Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150 (Black POM Cap) | $35 shipped | Brand new, unused. It includes BP-WTZPC1-BK x 1PCS, BP-WTZACT150-CL x 1PCS, BP-DSRAP-BK x 1PCS and BP-DSBRA-MBK x 1Set.
Bitspower Mod Kit Support Bracket | $13 | Brand new.

Please reply to post before sending a PM. Local pick up is available at Buffalo Grove, 60089. Let me know if you have any questions. Moreover, prices are negotiable. Thanks for looking.

Interesting info, can you give a link or something for these comparisons. I am planning for my first loop when the 1080ti comes out and i will be using 140mm fans and rads ( a 420mm and a 280mm cooling only my 6700k @ 4.6 and the card ). Out of all the fans out there, the corsair sp 120 are by far the best looking ones for me, however there aren't at 140mm, only the led ones. If however there isn't really that much of a difference, i may as well get the af 140mm from corsair.

EDIT: Almost forgot, great job with the pc, it looks great

How about this?
Skip Ek rads, get two of these Black ice 360 gts: http://www.performance-pcs.com/radiators/black-ice-nemesis-360gts-ultra-stealth-u-flow-low-profile-radiator-black-carbon.html
Pick up 3 sets of twin packs of sp120 quiet editions: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SP120-Quiet-Twin-Pack/dp/B007RESFR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1495725662&sr=8-5&keywords=120mm+sp120
Get a supremacy mx: http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-mx-cpu-waterblock-acetal.html
That alone will get you better cooling and save you 35 dollars before the 10% off
Secondly, if you want to save more, go with barbs instead of compression fittings and use zip ties.
third, order from performance-pcs during the sale and save an extra 10%.
And yes, you can fit both of those rads in a define S, I have dual 360s in mine.
Edit: typo

Thats a very power hungry chip. You’re gonna want full cooling. Some mini-heatsinks and good airflow would do, but you cannot just run a core waterblock and be done. If watercooling, I actually recommend using an AIO with a NZXT G12 bracket, since it will provide be cheaper than an entire loop, and probably cool the same, since its in direct silicon contact. If you already have a loop though, then go with the waterblock.


For a Universal Waterblock, you need a thermosphere


Thermosphere:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-thermosphere-nickel


Heres an AIO
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BYP4Ab7SGPX4A

Heres a G12
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYHRMYP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hZP4Ab4JEJC1V

You dont even need 240mm, my 980ti which only draws 25w less than the 390 is perfectly fine on 120mm rad.

Haha sure thing, its a rather simple mod. All you need is a through hole fitting.

Basically, it allows you to create a pass through on the case where you can screw any type of G1/4 threaded fitting into it. For the plug, you can use any type of G1/4 stop fitting.

The best way to drill the hole is to use what is called a step bit. So you drill a pilot hole with a standard 1/4" bit, and then you use this step bit to step up the size of the hole. If you are only going to be doing it for this build, I would recommend getting the link I provided as most of these bits go for $55 at your local hardware store.

All in all it's easy-peasy. Just be sure you know for sure where you want the port to be before you drill ;).

Looks like you can clean it. Copper should be pretty easy. Plenty of info on that. Acrylic can be a biatch though. I use Meguiar's PlasticX and a microfiber cloth (and in your case a toothbrush). Just be sure to rinse it really well with DW. The question really is "is at block worth the time to clean?" as it will take quite a bit of elbow grease.

Selection's kinda slim but I'd have to go with OEM fans just to keep costs down if I ever do decide to make a few. No way would I stick people with having to buy 20-30 dollar fans x6-7 in a 250-300 dollar case.

With dual ball bearing fans with a MTBF of 55k hours, they shouldn't be too bad.

The alternative is to go with 4x 200mm which seems to have a wider selection but that would increase the case size even more.

As for 9x120, yeah you can definitely wire up that many fans with either a fan control module or splitters that take power from molex/SATA.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484706868&sr=8-1&keywords=AIO+cooler i would say something like that would do the job, but then again, are you even planning to overclock that cpu ? cuz if not you would be okay with stock cooler or atleast something like evo 212 where you would save up 70usd ish .

I have around 1 1/4". Metric illiterate which is making this more difficult punching every number into a converter. But that's with the cap off from the top of the threads.

Thermaltake View 71 TG RGB Plus 4-Sided Tempered Glass Vertical GPU Modular E-ATX Full Tower Computer Case with 4 120mm Riing Plus RGB Fans Pre-Installed CA-1I7-00F1WN-02 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MGFS9NW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WjSOCbFWSRF03

Thermaltake Tower 900 Tempered Glass Fully Modular E-ATX Vertical Super Tower Gaming Computer Case Chassis Edition, Black, CA-1H1-00F1WN-00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1GP2GZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ReSOCbQCF1HXF

Lian Li PC-O11DW 011 Dynamic Tempered Glass on The Front Chassis Body SECC ATX Mid Tower Gaming Computer Case White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F9TC5W7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ukSOCbJDE498B

Cooler Master Cosmos C700P E-ATX Full-Tower with RGB Lighting, Dual-Curved Tempered Glass Side Panel, Aluminum Handles, Removable M/B Tray, Inversed Layout Option, 420mm Radiator Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075NSBT5D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3kSOCb9MDXSDG

I am from US so that is around 24' of tubing. Honestly I went through around 40' (12m) of tubing. Have about 2m left. One bend I had four 90's in it and it took me about 8 tries to get it right lol. I'd rather have left over rather than be short then have to wait for more. I used PETG which was pretty cheap. I bought 5 tubes of 3m sticks. Four 3m sticks come in one tube.


https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChilll-2in-Rigid-PETG-36in/dp/B00N56I81O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469818910&sr=8-1&keywords=primochill+PETG

Drilling the hole is super simple. You just need to know the OD of the drain valve and then get a step drill bit https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10194A-Titanium-Drill-Speed/dp/B000FZ2UOY?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_256287011_0&pf_rd_p=0c52eddb-bf3e-5079-a600-1a1baeabeb0f&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=256287011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=FYR4GJFVCFM1TC7P2MP3&pf_rd_r=FYR4GJFVCFM1TC7P2MP3&pf_rd_p=0c52eddb-bf3e-5079-a600-1a1baeabeb0f

That will give you a perfect circle hole for the size that you need.

Hey, sorry to bother you again. Last question I promise. Your review mentions how important it is to run the fans in PWM mode. Do you know if the H440 is PWM on all the headers? Or is it voltage control? It's missing 1 pin for every fan other than the 1st one (white connector): https://i.imgur.com/iMCNWBX.jpg


If you think that it isn't, this product should be good right? http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999309&cm_re=pwm_fan_hub-_-11-999-309-_-Product

Or https://www.amazon.ca/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473787919&sr=8-2&keywords=pwm+fan+hub ?


I'm open to suggestions as well but I'm in Canada so my choices are limited.
Thanks

There's red ones too, might tie into your theme better? The corners were really blowing your build apart for me, pretty damn nice aside from that.

So, to be clear, I put the tape measure there for scale, not for measuring the diameter hehe.

The pouch it came in says Matt Black (yeah that's how it's spelled) Enhance Multi-Link for OD 16mm.

It's just.. shouldn't it look more like this?

Here, they're good in any config really lol.

Some interesting offset fittings that may interest you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K4PHRKZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k-MwCbP1FJDVK

Honestly, looking at the holes at the bottom, you should be able to bottom mount the pump/reservoir (if it has standoffs). I have a Enthoo Mini XL and I was able to mount my EK-XRES without an issue.

​

Pic if interested. https://imgur.com/uQer1Im

*edit*

You should be able to use the Phanteks Pump bracket.

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Bracket-Pre-Drilled-Mounting-PH-PUMBKT_01/dp/B00M0QZ67E

Nice. If you have a fill port on your radiator or your reservoir, you can easily install this, often without emptying your loop. You might check to see if your motherboard has a water temp header. If not, you might need an adapter that converts that data for a 3pin fan header which can be read with software.


Edit: Alternatively, if you don't have a water temp header, you can use this guy which comes with it's own display.

What sort of fitting do you recommend? Thank you for the response/help. Would these work?

Not sure what you mean. The NZXT Kraken G12? Google will find it :P the fan hub was a

https://www.amazon.ca/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE Which needs 1 PWM fan and then the rest of the fans connected will mirror its settings.

​

I jsut ended up with a 4 pin Gelid GPU adapter and a PWM Y splitter and use MSI Afterburner. The fan hub now joins my parts and accessories box in the closet.

Monsoon has a couple bending kits that work well. The rulers made a huge difference for me. once i got them i was able to get most bends on my first try.

https://www.amazon.com/Monsoon-TKH-MEASURE-Hardline-Measuring-Kit/dp/B00K3XDOGG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1499957990&sr=8-7&keywords=monsoon+bending+kit

They also have some bigger sets as well.

The Thermaltake Tower 900 is built with watercooling in mind and seems to fit your criteria of good airflow, tempered glass and plenty of space.

XSPC measures in freedom units, these are them though https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INT7WGK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah I will overcome this issue and definitely will post results. Someone also pointed these fittings out and I picked up a pair.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K4PHRKZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k-MwCbP1FJDVK

How little space do you have? There's a few companies that make some pretty slim fans.

15mm thick example

https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Professional-Fine-Tuned-Performance-FN123/dp/B00NOTVCUQ/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

You're able to jump the PSU with either a paper clip that connects the ground to the green on the main mobo connector, or a plug that does it for you.

Since a lot of PSUs these days dont color code their wires,
the jumper plug is your best bet :

https://www.amazon.com/Antrons-24-Pin-Jump-Starter-Bridge/dp/B00K38IKRY

this way you can turn the psu on without using the mobo. Also, when you fill your loop, have no connections from your psu plugged into anything, else it negates the purpose since you'd be sending power to components.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CPP6QUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I quite like it.

Tubing


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00N56I81O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498946853&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=petg+tubing&dpPl=1&dpID=41tL0-OZQ7L&ref=plSrch


Fittings (that fit the tubing)


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B1ZT878/ref=oh_aui_i_r_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Bitpower 90 degree (doesn't fit, 1/32 off)



https://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=155_164&products_id=3404&zenid=63vujdg98n7jttn0paggkjcv32

It's not that exact one I just couldn't find the one on their site that's for tubing on both ends (which is the one I have)

For me the top 2 things i can think of are

for PETG And Acrylic tubing a Primoshill RFB you can get it in multiple sizes for what ever tubing your using. I use mine exactly how it says to.

https://www.primochill.com/products/primochill-rfb-rigid-tubing-finishing-bit

Tube cutter you can cut PETG and soft tubing with ease.

https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Heavy-Duty-Cutter-0-25mm/dp/B00ZQLKP0I

these are the only 2 things i use every time. i would say some kind of jog to help with bending can be handy but it all depends on the type of bends your doing. I have one but only use it when doing runs with double bends.

If the noctua fan corners isn't your thing, I did find this.

Monsoon makes a solid kit for measuring.

its between the lian Li and the TT https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Tempered-Vertical-Computer-CA-1H1-00F1WN-00/dp/B01N1GP2GZ but i would want to wait to see the lian li incase i really do like it and regret not buying it

https://www.amazon.com/Antrons-24-Pin-Jump-Starter-Bridge/dp/B00K38IKRY that or if you want to do it the old fashion way..
https://www.silverstonetek.com/downloads/QA/PSU/PSU-Paper%20Clip-EN.pdf

> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INT7WGK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do you have a list of the fittings?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ended up going with these

15mm thick 120mm fans


https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Professional-Fine-Tuned-Performance-FN123/dp/B00NOTVCUQ

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-P14s-redux-140mm-4-pin/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404610411&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+redux ??

they are out

https://www.amazon.com/ModRight-Anti-Static-Mod-Mat-Assembly-Surface/dp/B00CPP6QUG

I've been using this

Yeah just check the seller information list and you will see that both of those cheap sellers are new accounts and a scam

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B019EXSSBG/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

EK-DDC 3.2 PWM Elite Edition (incl. pump holders). My reasoning behind thinking its a bad part is that the holes look nothing like that in the pictures on any site. I plan on calling phanteks today

If it were me, I'd want more data - i.e. fluid temps. Possibly worth the $13 bucks to understand how hot your fluid is running?

https://www.amazon.com/Bitspower-Temperature-Sensor-Fitting-Shining/dp/B001CXK8FG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520439551&sr=8-4-fkmr0&keywords=bitspower+temp+sensor

At the worst it'll be one more puzzle piece in place to either argue that you've got a defective monoblock or help understand that the problem is elsewhere in the loop.

This is the reservoir. Typically, it would be mounted the other way but given how this is designed (every port is identical), I saw no issues mounting it 'sideways'. No one port is at more risk of leaking than any other.