(Part 2) Top products from r/watercooling

First, you need to check to see what model number you have for the Sapphire cards. I have two Sapphire Dual-X cards (11197-03-40g) and they do not make full cover waterblocks for them as they are non-reference. I use these.

That drive bay pump/res combo is nice but dual pumps are not necessary. If you like it and want it then by all means get it but just letting you know it is a little much for your application.

>Should i get 2 Rads?

Yes I would recommend it. In your case I would do a 240 or 280 in the front and a 240 or 280 up top. To cool your CPU and two GPU's you need a minimum of 360 radiator space. Your case cannot accommodate one 360 radiator (I believe). Personally, I would go with the 240 radiator up top and in the front. They are a lot more fan choices in the 120mm category than the 140mm category.
>Which fans can you recommend? Or can i even use my Fractal ones? (they are all 140mm)

You will need to change your fans as those are designed for your case. Fans with static pressure are used for radiators. If you go with 280 radiators, I would suggest this or this. If you need 120mm fans, there are a ton to choose from but I am partial to these

>Which fittings should i use?

Your choice completely. Use either barbs or compression fittings. Both get the job done. Compression fittings look nicer but they cost more. It is entirely a personal preference.

>What Tubes would make most sense (im not getting the sizes really :/)?

This is again a personal choice. Tubing size really makes little difference in actual temperatures. The most common size is 3/8 X 5/8 or 1/2 X 3/4. This numbering is 3/8 ID (inner diameter) X 5/8 OD (outer diameter). Based on the size of the tubing will determine what size fittings you need. These numbers need to match. Just remember that the thicker the tubing, the more rigid it will be and harder for tight bends.

>Do i want to have backplates for the GPUs or are they purely aesthetic?

Purely aesthetic. However, in some cases I have seen video cards sag or bend and backplates can help strengthen the cards.

>If i only get one rad, would it be more wise to top or front mount it?

I would advise against one radiator but if you did get one, I would put it in the front.

>Is a push-pull configuration alot more beneficial?

Although it is the most optimal configuration it really is not going to be a "game changer" in terms of temperature differences. Generally push-pull>push>pull but this can vary on the loop placement, the case, the components, etc. At most you may see a 3-5 degree difference among the different combinations and that is not going to make much difference for the bottom line.

Any pump worth its salt can handle those rads and blocks. The pump won't limit you here.

If you've got the extra rad, I would use it. I've got that AlphaCool rad... it's pretty nice. I appreciate the multiple ports, which make it easy to setup either a drain or fill line (depending on how you orient the rad). It can handle the load... but the temps will be higher than you might like. A second rad will help you reject more heat for sure to push the temps down, and/or keep your fan speeds lower. Copper properly cleaned will last forever... different application but a copper roof will go at lease a century. Get the Mayhem's Blitz Phase I kit... it's a very nice kit and even comes with the goggles and nitrile gloves. I would use it on your old rad AND your brand new AlphaCool rad (they aren't necessarily flushed that well at the factory).

13mm OD hard tubing will not restrict your flow too much and is fine from a practical perspective. It looks "skinny" though, so for aesthetics a lot of people use 16mm. Up to you. Almost every show build you see, "Rig of the Month", etc. use 16mm OD because it generally looks beefier, which most people like.

I would recommend getting one of the bending kits to help you out, particularly if you're going to build multiple hardline builds... Monsoon sells a nice hardline kit for under $100... AlphaCool's is top notch but runs over $200.

https://www.amazon.com/Monsoon-Hardline-Mandrel-Kit-Tubing/dp/B00K1O4GVE

https://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/tools/acrylic-tube-tools/21984/alphacool-eiskoffer-professional-bending-measuring-kit

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Alphacool/Eiskoffer_Professional/

Do I really need a deburrer for petg? I bought the drill bit from primo chill because I thought it would be handy.. not sure if I need to deburr on top of that?

You don’t need a deburrer. This is just to make the hard tubes not sharp on the ends so it won’t cut the o-rings in the fittings.

Should I buy gloves for when bending the tube?

You don’t have to. I don’t use gloves but if you want to play it safe and not get burnt then yea, get gloves.

Do you find it easier to hand-bend vs using some sort of mandrels?

Hand bending can be hard for a first timer but they do come out a lot nicer when hand bent. I would recommend getting a bending kit because the 90 degree angle bend is going to be your friend.

Trying to get any ideas of stuff that might be a good idea to have that might not be as obvious as the parts needed for the build..

You might need a drill.

Bending kit: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22341/too-134/Monsoon_Hardline_Pro_Mandrel_Kit_-_12_x_58_16mm.html?tl=g12c133s2087&id=nC9C9JEQ

XSPC Heavy Duty Hose Cutters: https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Heavy-Duty-Cutter-0-25mm/dp/B00ZQLKP0I

Heat gun: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22339/too-136/Monsoon_Hardline_Pro_Heatgun_w_Adapter.html?tl=g12c133s2087&id=nC9C9JEQ
Edit: what do you use to cut your petg? Hand saw? the XSPC cutter? a pipe cutter from local hardware store?

The parts you need for your custom loop check out our CLC: https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator/

Some small pieces of advice (since I have a very similar setup).

- Remove all included dust filters. The stock dust filters are objectively terrible. They don't block any fine dust and are extremely restrictive. If you genuinely need dust filters (you live near a factory or are in a state like Arizona), I highly suggest you invest in some Silverstone dust filters. Otherwise, throw them in the trash. Not joking.

- I would switch the direction of the fans on your vertical radiator. Your top rad will be a lot more efficient if it's getting only cool air (bottom fan intake and left vent/pcie slot area). In addition, most rads run slightly better in push vs pull (your current config), so your vertical rad will perform a little better that way. You will have negative pressure, but given the first point, that's likely not an issue.

- I have MLs on all of my fan slots and 3 fans at the bottom as intake. For whatever reason, the way Lian Li designed the vent pattern on the O11D, if the fan blades are right up against the ventilation holes, they make a ton of noise above ~900rpm. To remedy this, I got some 7mm fan spacers (rubber gaskets) to create some space between the fan and the vents. I would say this reduced the turbulence noise by 50% at higher RPMs.

- Make sure you get a water temp sensor. Set your radiator fan RPM and pump speed to that... not your processor temps.

​

Regardless, awesome start to a build!

Thank you. This is great advice.

• I'm not sure where I read the 240mm per component thing, but I must be mistaken. If I were to just use a single 360mm rad would it be better to place it in the front or on the top. From what you said it seems as though placing it on the front and flipped from the way I showed it would be the best.
  
• With regards to my fan choice, would something like the Nidec Servo GentleTyphoon be better? Looking at the specs/reviews it seems to be quiet (unfortunately its noise is given in dB while the Noctura is given in dBA).
  https://www.amazon.com/Nidec-Servo-GentleTyphoon-120mm-D1225C12B6ZPA-64/dp/B017UX9DRA/ref=pd_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51zEtz8Ta0L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR159%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=HH6FGNJ5QPMXA13QWZED
  
  
• If I were to use only a single 360mm rad, would I still place case fans on the top/back and if so can they be the same fans?
  
  Thank you again for your time.

Solid advice by Falcorambone. If you do take your CPU block off, make sure you clean the waterblock as well as your CPU and reapply a fresh, uniform, coat of thermal paste.

The best spot for your drain port is the lowest point in your loop AFTER the pump (this is so that you limit the chance of your pump running dry, which will damage it very quickly).
Since you have a pump/res combo the most logical spot is right at the out port of your res (as stated by falcoram).

You can use your own judgement, but from the pic it looks like either a "Y" or a "T" splitter will work.

When you do add the splitter, do consider adding a drain valve. You can connect it directly to your splitter (with a male to male adapter), however, in my experience, adding tubing that comes off the splitter to your drain port/valve gives much appreciated flexibility when you do drain your loop.

One last thing: you don't have to worry about draining your entire loop =). Your radiator is most likely going to remain full, which is totally fine. If you run into issues where you cant get some liquid out of a tube, turn your pump off and let it settle before turning back on as well.

Interesting info, can you give a link or something for these comparisons. I am planning for my first loop when the 1080ti comes out and i will be using 140mm fans and rads ( a 420mm and a 280mm cooling only my 6700k @ 4.6 and the card ). Out of all the fans out there, the corsair sp 120 are by far the best looking ones for me, however there aren't at 140mm, only the led ones. If however there isn't really that much of a difference, i may as well get the af 140mm from corsair.

EDIT: Almost forgot, great job with the pc, it looks great

How about this?
Skip Ek rads, get two of these Black ice 360 gts: http://www.performance-pcs.com/radiators/black-ice-nemesis-360gts-ultra-stealth-u-flow-low-profile-radiator-black-carbon.html
Pick up 3 sets of twin packs of sp120 quiet editions: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SP120-Quiet-Twin-Pack/dp/B007RESFR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1495725662&sr=8-5&keywords=120mm+sp120
Get a supremacy mx: http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-mx-cpu-waterblock-acetal.html
That alone will get you better cooling and save you 35 dollars before the 10% off
Secondly, if you want to save more, go with barbs instead of compression fittings and use zip ties.
third, order from performance-pcs during the sale and save an extra 10%.
And yes, you can fit both of those rads in a define S, I have dual 360s in mine.
Edit: typo

Thats a very power hungry chip. You’re gonna want full cooling. Some mini-heatsinks and good airflow would do, but you cannot just run a core waterblock and be done. If watercooling, I actually recommend using an AIO with a NZXT G12 bracket, since it will provide be cheaper than an entire loop, and probably cool the same, since its in direct silicon contact. If you already have a loop though, then go with the waterblock.


For a Universal Waterblock, you need a thermosphere


Thermosphere:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-thermosphere-nickel


Heres an AIO
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BYP4Ab7SGPX4A

Heres a G12
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYHRMYP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hZP4Ab4JEJC1V

You dont even need 240mm, my 980ti which only draws 25w less than the 390 is perfectly fine on 120mm rad.

😁 yes!!! Inrccomend buying a HDMI right angle male to female to make it look clean like mine as well as it is powered by hdmi here is the link I used velcro to mount!!!! Easy

Link: GeeekPi 5 inch HDMI Monitor LCD... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L6O2NEE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yeah definitely, unfortunately they don't have that in Black Sparkle and I'm trying to keep all the parts the same. So I'd slap this male to male extender onto the valve here and I'd be good to go, right?

Once that's complete, I'd run this 90' fitting on the back of the magic cube (facing behind) and then connect the valve to that? It would be all the way in the back, behind the reservoir, and just slightly poking out to the left.

I'd also need to get some soft tubing and a compression fitting though, right? https://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=ZMT+tube – any idea which size I'd need? And what compression fitting I would use?

​

Thank you SO SO MUCH!

Selection's kinda slim but I'd have to go with OEM fans just to keep costs down if I ever do decide to make a few. No way would I stick people with having to buy 20-30 dollar fans x6-7 in a 250-300 dollar case.

With dual ball bearing fans with a MTBF of 55k hours, they shouldn't be too bad.

The alternative is to go with 4x 200mm which seems to have a wider selection but that would increase the case size even more.

As for 9x120, yeah you can definitely wire up that many fans with either a fan control module or splitters that take power from molex/SATA.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484706868&sr=8-1&keywords=AIO+cooler i would say something like that would do the job, but then again, are you even planning to overclock that cpu ? cuz if not you would be okay with stock cooler or atleast something like evo 212 where you would save up 70usd ish .

I have around 1 1/4". Metric illiterate which is making this more difficult punching every number into a converter. But that's with the cap off from the top of the threads.

Thermaltake View 71 TG RGB Plus 4-Sided Tempered Glass Vertical GPU Modular E-ATX Full Tower Computer Case with 4 120mm Riing Plus RGB Fans Pre-Installed CA-1I7-00F1WN-02 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MGFS9NW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WjSOCbFWSRF03

Thermaltake Tower 900 Tempered Glass Fully Modular E-ATX Vertical Super Tower Gaming Computer Case Chassis Edition, Black, CA-1H1-00F1WN-00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1GP2GZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ReSOCbQCF1HXF

Lian Li PC-O11DW 011 Dynamic Tempered Glass on The Front Chassis Body SECC ATX Mid Tower Gaming Computer Case White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F9TC5W7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ukSOCbJDE498B

Cooler Master Cosmos C700P E-ATX Full-Tower with RGB Lighting, Dual-Curved Tempered Glass Side Panel, Aluminum Handles, Removable M/B Tray, Inversed Layout Option, 420mm Radiator Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075NSBT5D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3kSOCb9MDXSDG

OK, so I ordered from a couple different places (shipping reasons mostly).

Performance PCs -

• GPU block - http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fc1080-gtx-ftw-nickel-plated-copper-water-block-with-plexi-top-for-evger-geforce-gtx-1080-ftw.html
  
  
• GPU backplate - http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-gpu-blocks/ek-fc1080-gtx-ftw-backplate-black.html
  
  
• CPU block - http://www.performance-pcs.com/water-blocks-cpu/ek-supremacy-evo-cpu-water-block-copper-acetal.html
  
  OutletPC -
  
  
• Radiator - http://www.outletpc.com/oa1746-xspc-rx360-triple-fan-radiator.html
  
  
• EK Pump/Res - http://www.outletpc.com/ma0953-ekwb-ekxres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump.html
  
  I had a hard time finding the bracket that mounts the pump/res to a 120mm fan, or the radiator, but eventually did find it very cheap here. You'll definitely want this if you're building in the P3, since there is no other real place to put it especially if you want to mount the res vertically:
  
  
• EK mounting bracket - https://www.altex.com/EKWB-EK-UNI-Pump-Bracket-120mm-Fan-EK-UNIPB-120-P157731.aspx
  
  Amazon -
  
  
• Fans - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C249PEO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• As for the rest (tubing and fittings), chances are yours won't be exactly like mine, but it's 16mm OD PETG tubing (pick a brand you like on Amazon) and matching EKWB fittings. Everything for the drain valve was Barrow or Bitspower pieces from Amazon. The coolant is Primochill Opaque Sky White concentrate + orange dye.

Did you use a silicone insert for those bends? Helps prevent some of the kinking. Also, there are kits that may help you with achieving specific angles (something like this). The bend on the second photo - the one with the little bumps on the inner radius - looks like you didn't give it enough heat.

make sure your board has a T_sensor, a 2-pin socket for plugging in the thermal probe's cable

I'm using a Phobya in-line sensor, works just fine. It's just a G1/4 fitting with a sensor attached to it from the outside - it doesn't sit in the water.

Or you could use a Bitspower plug sensor, best placed in a T-fitting or in the res, so that it doesn't impede flow.

Other brands also have their own versions of such sensors.

That deburring tool isn't very good for deburring.

If you're doing petg, you'll be very unhappy with its outer edge deburring performance.

This is the same tool that is much better made: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YVLHA/
It still will NOT do external edge deburring well on petg. But it is made better :)


I recommend a circular pipe cutter over a hacksaw. They will leave much cleaner cuts.

Capri Tools MiniKlinge Mini Tube Cutter, Klinge Close Quarters with 1/8" to 1-1/8" OD, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCHA3RC/

I changed some things, click the link to go directly to the list overview.

My reasoning behind picking threadripper is you get 12 more threads 6 more cores than intel. Plus all that PCIe bandwidth!

Regarding the case selection, the SMA8 is a very large modular chassis and the parts I selected are intended for it. (It might be missing radiator mounts or something important because the model I selected it a pre-packed, I'll do another once over when I wake-up - so sleepy) The Xforma is a work of art. Both are obviously expensive especially the Xforma. I'd say get what you'd prefer as they'll both do the job - you know look bitchin'.


You can add another 2TB M.2, tons of SATA is available as well.


I went with soft tubing as opposed to rigid for simplicity sake. If you'd prefer rigid, after you do your research on if it's something you want to do just remove the tubing and fittings for the appropriate replacements.


Regarding fluid since the tubing I picked is solid I'd suggest just distilled water and https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CDXQ22M


The CPU block comes with good thermal paste and buying more isn't necessary as the only thing better is liquid metal or indigo extreme.

Board comes with a few SLI HB bridges.

You can go crazy and add water temp probes since the board natively supports it you don't need an aquaero.


Peripherals are pretty much personal preference. Go for whatever.


I feel like I've forgotten something...

Edit: Oh yeah the ODD, just get a USB one, doesn't matter what kind it'll work the same. Might wanna get at least a bluray one though.

Yeah sure!
Here is a 3 way port. (This one is better anyways).
https://www.amazon.com/Bitspower-T-Block-Fitting-Matte-Black/dp/B004MLQLRO/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=bitspower+3+way&qid=1555672785&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

Those are some tight bends! There are a few different tools available to help from XSPC, Monsoon and Primochill, some handier than the others. I've used the simple XSPC tool to good effect.

Tip: Cut your tube longer than you need it, make your bends in the middle and then trim it to length little by little. Makes it easier.

Hey, sorry to bother you again. Last question I promise. Your review mentions how important it is to run the fans in PWM mode. Do you know if the H440 is PWM on all the headers? Or is it voltage control? It's missing 1 pin for every fan other than the 1st one (white connector): https://i.imgur.com/iMCNWBX.jpg


If you think that it isn't, this product should be good right? http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999309&cm_re=pwm_fan_hub-_-11-999-309-_-Product

Or https://www.amazon.ca/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473787919&sr=8-2&keywords=pwm+fan+hub ?


I'm open to suggestions as well but I'm in Canada so my choices are limited.
Thanks

There's red ones too, might tie into your theme better? The corners were really blowing your build apart for me, pretty damn nice aside from that.

These are the ones he has https://www.amazon.com/Nidec-Servo-GentleTyphoon-120mm-D1225C12B6ZPA-64/dp/B017UX9DRA/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1498335916&sr=1-2&keywords=gentle+typhoon

are those good too or just the dark side? These are higher rpm which is nice.

Not sure what you mean. The NZXT Kraken G12? Google will find it :P the fan hub was a

https://www.amazon.ca/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE Which needs 1 PWM fan and then the rest of the fans connected will mirror its settings.

​

I jsut ended up with a 4 pin Gelid GPU adapter and a PWM Y splitter and use MSI Afterburner. The fan hub now joins my parts and accessories box in the closet.

The Thermaltake Tower 900 is built with watercooling in mind and seems to fit your criteria of good airflow, tempered glass and plenty of space.

I second this! The bit fits right into a cordless drill and makes a perfect edge (if you do it right).

https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-RFB-Rigid-Tubing-Finishing/dp/B074B3PY7W/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1537751815&sr=8-15&keywords=petg+tool

Nice site. Although I still think this may be the cheapest yet which is what I bought as my 2nd purchase. But I agree a lot of petg is overpriced.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CVOLDTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cYYyCb8Y347CJ

Go with PETG, acrylic is a little bit harder but brittle. This tool is great for finishing the tub ends and this one to cut the tube to length.

Edit: buy first tool according to your tubing size.

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Hybrid-GeForce-Cooling-400-HY-0996-B1/dp/B00ZQ4PFX2

And a AIO/Air cooler of your choice. Given the budget, I'd say NH D15, Dark rock pro 3, or Corsair/NZXT liquid cooler

It sounds like cost is the priority. I assume you're looking for rad fans. You can get Corsair SP120's for a little more than that. $25 for two performance editions or $30 for two quiet editions. You might be able to get them cheaper elsewhere, since I was only looking on amazon.

Thanks. Would this be the bit for my thermaltake 16mm of PETG?

https://smile.amazon.com/PrimoChill-RFB-Rigid-Tubing-Finishing/dp/B074B3PY7W/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=primochill+finishing+bit&qid=1570119361&s=gateway&sprefix=primochill+fin&sr=8-6

Could I just add one of the little bottles of Liquid Utopia (this) to the resevoir or should I flush it and fill with a fully mixed solution of this and distilled water?

What region are you purchasing from? Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MLQLRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RgtozbDXQ6EHK Amazon UK(this is carbon black not matte, I don't know the difference): https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00OQX7G7M/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496920630&sr=8-2-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bitspower+matte+black+t

You can use the same motherboard with either SFX or ATX power supplies, the pins are the same, and the cable colors being different is just because that's what Silverstone chose to use. You jump the same pins in the ATX connector. Or, you can do yourself a favor, and pick up one of these.

For me the top 2 things i can think of are

for PETG And Acrylic tubing a Primoshill RFB you can get it in multiple sizes for what ever tubing your using. I use mine exactly how it says to.

https://www.primochill.com/products/primochill-rfb-rigid-tubing-finishing-bit

Tube cutter you can cut PETG and soft tubing with ease.

https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Heavy-Duty-Cutter-0-25mm/dp/B00ZQLKP0I

these are the only 2 things i use every time. i would say some kind of jog to help with bending can be handy but it all depends on the type of bends your doing. I have one but only use it when doing runs with double bends.

If the noctua fan corners isn't your thing, I did find this.

Amazon.
EVGA Hybrid Cooler for GeForce GTX 980Ti Cooling 400-HY-0996-B1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZQ4PFX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_jFzRwbX0VDT45

The 980ti version will work on any reference 980 ti or Titan I think.

I'm going AIO on my rig.

I have EVGA HYBRID Water Cooler (All in One) for GTX 980 Ti on my dual 980ti SLI. They go for $110 USD @ EVGA, and currently $80 USD on Amazon.

I'm planning on a CM Nepton 140xl for my cpu. Currently $102.91 USD on Amazon.

I like the no maintenance/factory guaranteed features.

What a relief to hear this! This is the tubing I ordered.

I was mostly worried, not about the fit, because obviously they both say that they have a 16mm od, but rather that this wasn't even a proper fitting to begin with. That it was some kind of adapter or such.

its between the lian Li and the TT https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Tempered-Vertical-Computer-CA-1H1-00F1WN-00/dp/B01N1GP2GZ but i would want to wait to see the lian li incase i really do like it and regret not buying it

Thanks for the input! I'll have to look into that. From I've read around here people don't seem to care too much about their liquid temps, just the temps read from their components.

/u/TwistedHeaven's recommendation: Bitspower G1/4" temperature stop plug

This will give you some play:

4 x extenders long (20~25mm)

4 x extenders short (10~15mm)

6 x 45º rotary angles

6 x double rotary snakes

4 x 90º rotary angles

1 x ball valve

1 x inline temp sensor ( phobya inline temp sensor or Barrow temp sensor stop fitting )

I'm using this inline sensor Aquacomputer G1/4" Inline Temperature Sensor. A Plug style sensor should also work, but I don't have personal experience with them.

The Power On pin is the same for all modern power supplies. Get this or match up the pins in that picture to your powersupply and use a paperclip.

And between the NF-A12x25 PWM vs nidec Servo gentletyphoon 2150 RPM PWM ? https://www.amazon.com/SERVO-Nidec-GentleTyphoon-120mm-Case/dp/B017UX9DRA

I'm going to be using these. That should work, right?

Here you go https://www.amazon.com/GeeekPi-Monitor-Resistive-Interface-Raspberry/dp/B01L6O2NEE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1526670950&sr=8-4&keywords=hdmi+5+inch+monitor

http://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Liquid-Utopia-15ml-Bottle/dp/B00CDXQ22M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406496485&sr=8-2&keywords=anticorrosive+liquid

Is an option.

This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L6O2NEE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've been using this

Yea here's the link. if you read the notes the seller posted, some screens can be powered by the hdmi. Idk if the seller has 2 different versions.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L6O2NEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YMA-AbN8VXTFX

Yeah just check the seller information list and you will see that both of those cheap sellers are new accounts and a scam

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B019EXSSBG/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Most connectors are G1/4, even if they specify metric for the tube fittings. G1/4 is the size and thread that goes into the component. When it says 1/2" or 12mm or something, that's the size of the tube that's going into the fitting.

So Primochill use imperial measurements and you can't mix and match imperial and metric, because 1/2" is 12.7mm. If you have a 1/2" fitting and a 12mm tube, the tube will be undersized and leak. Or vice-versa, the tube will be 0.7mm too big (at least with hard fittings - it doesn't matter for soft tubing so they all specify imperial measurements too). Primochill fittings with Bitspower rigid tubing won't work, for example. But they all have G1/4 connectors to components. The only thing that has to match are the tubing and fittings. Any adapters, valves, etc. should all be G1/4 fittings.

So if you have a Bitspower valve or a splitter or something with G1/4 and a Primochill fitting then they will work together because all that matters is the G1/4 part.

​

|mobo|$290|AORUS Z390 Master|
|:-|:-|:-|
|gpu|$700|AORUS 1080 ti Xtreme|
|ram|$360|G.Skill TridentZ RGB 4x8 3200 Mhz|
|cpu|$360|Intel i7 8700k 5Ghz OC|
|psu|$156|Corsair RM1000i Gold|
|nvme|$138|Samsung 970 EVO 500GB 2280 SSD|
|case|$150|Corsair Obsidian 500D|
|fans|$56|Corsair SP120|
|rgb fans|$110|Corsair LL120 RGB|
|cables|$105|CableMod PRO ModMesh C-Series RMi|
|240 rad|$66|EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 240 Slim Dual|
|360 rad|$90|EKWB EK-CoolStream PE 360 Dual|
|gpu wb|$165|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus RGB - Nickel|
|gpu bp|$47|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate - Nickel|
|cpu wb|$72|Phanteks Glacier C350i|
|kit|$60|Thermaltake PETG 16mm OD Bending Kit|
|pump|$100|EKWB EK-D5 PWM G2 Pump|
|res|$126|Watercool HEATKILLER Tube 200 D5|
|res top|$21|Watercool HEATKILLER Multiport Top 200|
|stand|$19|Watercool HEATKILLER Stand (Long)|
|riser|$27|Thermaltake PCI-E x16 3.0 Riser Cable 200mm|
|coolant|$56|XSPC EC Opaque White Coolant (qty 2)|
|fittings|$54|Thermaltake Pacific 90 Degree Adapters|
|fittings|$110|Thermaltake Pacific 16mm Compression Fittings (qty 2)|
|fittings|$26|Bitspower 5mm Male to Male 4-Pack|
|fittings|$20|Barrow Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$15|Thermaltake Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$14|XSPC Ball Valve|
|tubing|$40|Thermaltake 1000mm V-Tubler PETG 16mm 4-Pack|
|paste|$40|Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut|
|isopropyl|$18|NTE Isopropyl 99.9%|
|bottle|$11|1000ml fill bottle|
|foam|$13|1/4 inch thick foam insulation|
|heat gun|$25|Furno 300 Heat Gun|
||$3649||
||||
|mouse pad|$26|Reflex Lab XXXL 36" x 18" Mouse Pad|
|chair|$175|Techni Mobili RTA-5004-BK Rta-5004-Bk Office Chair|
|arm pads|$18|Aloudy Ergonomic Memory Foam Arm Covers|
|monitor|$900|Acer Predator x34p Ultrawide QHD G-Sync|
|stand|$100|AmazonBasics Premium Single 25lb Monitor Stand|
|cable|$18|Accell DisplayPort 1.2 Cable 10ft|
||$4886||
||||
|mouse|$50|Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB|
|keyboard|$110|https://www.amazon.com/MODEL-Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00N2ROO2S|
||$5046||

​

Can you tell me more about the draining?
So I have been seeing jayztwocents videos, and other builds on the subreddit and it seems I will use the following usual setup:
Connect the valve below the res (the res itself will be at one side and bottom of the case and the rads will go up top) so that way the valve will be at the lowest.
In that case what EXACT fittings would I need?
SO far the bitspower valve (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007N8OAIK/ref=pd_luc_rh_sbs_02_04_t_ttl_lh?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) and this fitting (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MLQLRO/ref=pd_luc_rh_mrairec_01_02_t_img_lh?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1).

What else would I need? What is the bitspower's plug called?

Here's the parts list

Motherboard

https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Maximus-XI-Formula-Motherboard/dp/B07HM3FRBL/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=formula+xi+z390&qid=1566404579&s=gateway&sr=8-1

RAM
https://www.amazon.com/G-SKILL-TridentZ-288-Pin-Desktop-F4-3200C16Q-32GTZR/dp/B01MSBS0UT/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=gskillz+trident+z+3600mhz&qid=1566404983&s=electronics&sr=1-5

PSU

https://www.amazon.com/Be-Quiet-Power-80plus-platin/dp/B00X7VF9UA

Fans

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Software-Addressable-Radiator-CL-F072-PL12SW/dp/B07FWJ1GHT/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=riing+trio&qid=1566404018&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Tubes

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-Lengths-V-Tubler-CL-W116-PL16TR/dp/B01CVOLDTO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1RV0TJYAN7THI&keywords=thermaltake+tubes&qid=1566404090&s=gateway&sprefix=thermtal%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-1

CPU block

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-CPU-Water-Block/dp/B0091CW96Q/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2LHAAOYN8HZAJ&keywords=thermaltake+pacific+w5+cpu+waterblock&qid=1566404130&s=gateway&sprefix=w5+thermaltake+cp%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-2

GPU block (discontinued. Had to buy overseas)

https://www.thermaltake.com/pacific-v-gtx-1080ti-plus-transparent-msi-gaming-x.html

RGB fittings

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-Premium-Fitting-CL-W185-CU00BL/dp/B07ND7WW4T/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=thermaltake+rgb+fittings&qid=1566404248&s=gateway&sr=8-1

90 degree fittings

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-Adapter-Fitting-CL-W052-CU00BL/dp/B01EE9AP52/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2YNYJJVRFHVLL&keywords=thermaltake+90+degree+fitting&qid=1566404296&s=gateway&sprefix=thermaltake+90+deg%2Caps%2C218&sr=8-3

90 degree compression fitting

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-Compression-Fitting-CL-W097-CA00BL/dp/B071YVHLLY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2YNYJJVRFHVLL&keywords=thermaltake+90+degree+fitting&qid=1566404332&s=gateway&sprefix=thermaltake+90+deg%2Caps%2C218&sr=8-5

Pump/res

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Adjustable-Reservoir-Certified-CL-W082-PL00BL/dp/B0784BGN6Q/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=thermaltake%2Bpump%2Bres&qid=1566404397&s=gateway&sr=8-2&th=1

Lian li strimer(24 & 8 pin)

https://www.amazon.com/Lian-Li-Pin-Power-Strimer/dp/B07FCLJYVH/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=lian%2Bli%2Bstrimer&qid=1566404435&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1

RGB light strip

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-Million-Magnetic-CL-O014-PL00SW/dp/B079FVB9TF/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1KQWAYQ0R3MKO&keywords=pacific+lumi+plus&qid=1566404492&s=gateway&sprefix=pacific+lumi%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-1

RGB flow indicator

https://www.amazon.com/Bitspower-Hexagon-Flow-Indicator-Digital/dp/B07BWWBWGY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=bitspower+rgb+flow+indicator&qid=1566404532&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQTk0VTVVQUhaRjVZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjg4MjA4MU5YM1lIOFU2T1Y1MCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzY2NTYwMTNUNk1RVUlGSzVKVCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Coolant
https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Performance-Premix-Coolant-Opaque/dp/B076QJ7M6N/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=xspc+coolant&qid=1566404891&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSE4wTzlIUFI2VzVQJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDMyNzA0QlFZME9JQlBRNUVCJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4NDc0NzExWU45NFRORTZVNFdQJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==