Reddit Reddit reviews 10 Way Blade Fuse Box for Automotive [ATC/ATO Blade Fuses] [100 Amp][LED Indicator] [Protection Cover] [10-30V DC; 12V] Auto Marine Fuse Block

We found 3 Reddit comments about 10 Way Blade Fuse Box for Automotive [ATC/ATO Blade Fuses] [100 Amp][LED Indicator] [Protection Cover] [10-30V DC; 12V] Auto Marine Fuse Block. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Automotive
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Automotive Replacement Lighting & Electrical Equipment
Automotive Replacement Electrical Equipment
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Automotive Fuses & Fuse Accessories
10 Way Blade Fuse Box for Automotive [ATC/ATO Blade Fuses] [100 Amp][LED Indicator] [Protection Cover] [10-30V DC; 12V] Auto Marine Fuse Block
LED INDICATOR FOR BLOWN FUSE - Easily identify & replace blown fuses immediately without guessing! The LED indicator lights up when a blown fuse is detected.FUSE PROTECTION COVER - A neat clip-on plastic cover that adds extra protection to your fuse box & fuses.100 AMP RATING - Maximum of 30 Amp per circuit & 100 Amp per panel.HEAVY DUTY CONSTRUCTION - This fuse panel has a #10-32 stud for power feed, .250” male quick disconnect terminals, and can take an input voltage of 10 – 32 V DC.User Manual available for download under Product Information Details; Search for "Online LED Store Fuse Box" on YouTube for How To Video.
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3 Reddit comments about 10 Way Blade Fuse Box for Automotive [ATC/ATO Blade Fuses] [100 Amp][LED Indicator] [Protection Cover] [10-30V DC; 12V] Auto Marine Fuse Block:

u/SirNut · 3 pointsr/cableporn

Here’s my write up on JeepForum

This is the fuse block I used

I used 6-position covered terminal blocks similar to these, although I got them for $3/ea at a local store

This was my ground bus bar. it was cheaper when I bought it, and 10-position is nice but I probably could’ve gotten away with less

These are the waterproof sealed relays I would recommend

This is the circuit breaker I wish I used, but I had the 150A on hand. I’ll probably swap it out at some point

Edit: to add on, I used heatshrink on noninsulated female disconnects so that I could have everything properly color coordinated for easier work if I needed to make repairs/modifications in the future. I only used 1/4” Red/Yellow/Black HS on the board :)

EDIT 2: I used the wrong link for my writeup. It's fixed now!

u/zildjian · 1 pointr/Wrangler

Thanks! It was definitely a goal of mine to have all the wiring as tidy as possible. I suppose that's why the setup still doesn't work :). I could just toss some relays and inline fuses under the hood and be done with it, but I'd rather build a housing for that stuff. I'm hoping to find a water resistant plastic box that's big enough for at least 8 fuses and 7 relays. I'd use something like this perhaps for the positives, and a smaller bus for the negatives. I'd like to mount the whole contraption on top of the brake booster. I'm struggling with that right now, though, trying to source a good sized box and figuring out how to mount it.

u/tatertom · 0 pointsr/vandwellers

> they give off gases that may be dangerous. Is that anything to worry about if I have a roof vent fan and another fan running inside while I sleep?

Nah. Even if you were to leave a dead battery charging in the sun, or a full battery depleting in the dark, you'd notice the gas (smells like rain) before it'd become an explosion hazard, and it's gases that'd wake you up and make you feel uncomfortable enough to start changing something before they could hurt you from breathing them. It's not like Carbon Monoxide, which will make you sleepier while killing you or anything. One has to kinda try pretty hard to enclose it (made even more difficult in a vehicle), with way more battery, to get an explosion or fast enough asphyxiation with that kind of stuff. Just ventilate all the time, even if passively, like you said.

> I'm confused as to how I hook up 12v outlets to my charge controller so I can actually charge things.

I know some controllers have load monitoring, but I find that feature pretty much useless, and it's the only reason I can see to hook up loads through the controller. Maybe put your fridge on it, in case your battery bank takes a dump, so you don't also lose a fridge full of food, but otherwise, I prefer to run the solar charger straight to the battery, and run all loads off of the battery. I like to use one of these as my positive bus bar and "main" distribution, right off the house bank. One fuse for alternator charge circuit, one for solar, one for inverter, and one for less-demanding loads through a guy like this.