Best automotive replacement fuse boxes according to redditors

They are listed as ground buss bar because they are not insulated. They are designed to mount inside an electrical enclosure directly to the metal, bonding it.

You are much better off buying something like an ATC fuse block. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N9PJ7W
That unit will also allow you to fuse everything to the proper rating.

Fuse box is toast. Wire in an ATC box. This is the one I used in my KZ when the same thing happened

Here’s my write up on JeepForum

This is the fuse block I used

I used 6-position covered terminal blocks similar to these, although I got them for $3/ea at a local store

This was my ground bus bar. it was cheaper when I bought it, and 10-position is nice but I probably could’ve gotten away with less

These are the waterproof sealed relays I would recommend

This is the circuit breaker I wish I used, but I had the 150A on hand. I’ll probably swap it out at some point

Edit: to add on, I used heatshrink on noninsulated female disconnects so that I could have everything properly color coordinated for easier work if I needed to make repairs/modifications in the future. I only used 1/4” Red/Yellow/Black HS on the board :)

EDIT 2: I used the wrong link for my writeup. It's fixed now!

In larger projects where you are going to have to split a large supply into several separated runs you'll want to fuse each run independently. If you ar going to run 40A from a 60A power supply for instance, like others have suggested below it's best to run a few wires at for instance 10A.

Although it's not 100% accurate, power will take the way of the least resistance so if you lay down several wires next to your LED strip, the higher amount of copper and lower amount of resistance on those wires to the specific spots will automatically "distribute" the power among the available paths.

Always fuse below the rating of the wire (and if possible the end device), so if the wire is rated up to 15A for instance, fusing for 10A is a good idea that way, whatever happens it can never go up in smoke and cause a fire.

Since we are talking low voltage, car parts are easily available and cheap. For just a few links you could use one of these blocks: https://www.amazon.com/Support-Truck-Circuit-Standard-Holder/dp/B012CQEPN2 but if the project is a bit more complex or high amount of wires and Amps are used, these distribution blocks make your life a whole lot easier!: https://www.amazon.com/Kohree-Automotive-Waterproof-Negative-Indicator/dp/B07S99H25W Those are really excellent to work with, you can get them in 6 or 12 way variants and they take cheap car fuses which are available in lots of different values.

A 12 speaker system is going to need 3 4 channel amps at 4 ohms, and you will want a good dsp with an adequate number of line outs rather than relying on that many rca splitters. And that's without subwoofers. Then replacing those speakers is going to cost a pretty penny too. I would budget about ten times more if you want to use all those speakers

Dsp:

Alpine pxe-0850s- $700

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PXE0850/Alpine-PXE-0850S.html


Amp:

Pioneer gm a6704 or similar - $140x3, $420 total

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMA6704/Pioneer-GM-A6704.html?tp=35782

Speakers:

Infinity reference 6.5 or similar - $75 a pair, 6 pairs- $450

https://www.crutchfield.com/g_473750/6-6-1-2-6-3-4-Speakers.html?tp=78072


Head unit:

Doesn't really matter what you buy with the dsp, as long as it has at least 4 pre outs

Jvc kd-x360bts - $70

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDX360B/JVC-KD-X360BTS.html?tp=72310

Install:

You'd need some serious custom work to get 3 amps and a dsp installed, no one makes a wiring kit for that.

Large fuse block - $35

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078SCQJNM/ref=sspa_mw_detail_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1

0ga Inline fuse holder - $10

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/inline-fuse-holders/sp/bassik-0-gauge-anl-in-line-fuse-holder-with-fuse/

25 feet 0 gauge power/ground wire -$25

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/power-wire/bassik-power-wire/sp/bassik-0-gauge-power-ground-wire-red/

100 feet 12 gauge speaker wire - $20

http://www.knukonceptz.com/home-theater/speaker-wire/bassik-speaker-wire/sp/bassik-12-gauge-speaker-wire-audio-cable/

20' 4 channel rca cable - $25

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/rca-cables/karma-v3-rca-cables/sp/karma-v3-twisted-4-channel-coaxial-rca-cable-20-feet/

6x 3' 2 channel rca cable - $1.79 a set, $12 total

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/rca-cables/bassik-rca-cables/sp/bassik-twisted-pair-2-channel-ofc-rca-cable-1-meter-3-feet/

Metra dash install kit - $11

Metra 99-3002 Dash Kit For GM Truck And Van 95-05 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029X1LO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ACOHDb99YRAGC

Metra radio wiring kit and antennae adapter- ~~$25

Various fuses, wire terminals, cable management, ferrules, tools etc - $50

Total- ~$1853. Budget $2000 for shipping, taxes, unseen extra costs

clinometer

Removed the radio and capped it with abs plastic, fit it with a usb charger and [four of these switches in different colors] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1PU0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) using these housings

the switches got to [relays] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that are powered [by this fuse box] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMTAZ1W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that is mounted to the top of the OEM fuse box under the hood.

Those power my OBHS and OBA. Other two switches not in use yet, hoping for rock lights/light bar some day maybe?

Removed the old fog light switch panel, replaced with abs plastic and volume control that goes to an amp that goes to a stereo jack that i just plug into my phone for music.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QMTAZ1W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484512150&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=12v+fuse+block

Here's a solid one.

The vehicle has a wire from the alternator to the battery. It is usually too small. If you connect your house battery charging wire at the alternator rather than at the vehicle battery you will improve the charging of the house battery without adding additional current and voltage drop to the charging path for the vehicle battery.

The wire from the vehicle alternator to the house battery gets the switch somewhere between the two. It doesn't matter where. If it is near either end or in the middle it doesn't matter. The switch instructions say to put it near the vehicle battery. It doesn't matter. The ohms are the same no matter where you put it. Make the wire as short as possible. Locate the switch out of the weather and wherever it is best to have a short total wire length.

Fuses protect wires to avoid fires. The size of the wire sets the upper limit of fuse size. The wire needs to be protected at every source of power. Your house battery charging wire has a connection to two sources of power. The house battery and the vehicle battery / alternator both feed the wire and both need a fuse. Mount the fuses as close as possible to their power sources.

The inverter takes a large DC current. A 440 watt blender using a 90% efficient inverter will need 40 Amps running, maybe twice that starting. Mount the inverter as close as possible to the house battery. If the inverter has its own fuse and the cable from the battery to the inverter is so short that it can't touch any ground even if cut or disconnected then maybe you don't need a fuse between the battery and the inverter.

The fuse box I used is:
https://www.amazon.com/OLS-PSZACCEPS051H-6-Way-Illuminated-Blade/dp/B00QMTAZ1W/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1478725271&sr=1-1&keywords=automotive+fuse+block
You connect a wire from the house battery to it, put in the fuses then connect the fuse box outlet connectors to your loads. Again, put a fuse at the battery to protect the fat wire to your fuse box. If the wire to the fuse box is short enough so that even if the nut holding the wire on the fuse box falls off the wire can't reach anything grounded then maybe skip the fuse.

Specific answers

1 and 2) Wire from alternator - fuse - fat wire - separator - fat wire - fuse - house battery. Then from house battery to inverter, house battery to fuse box, both with fuses if necessary.

3) fuse size depends on wire. For small loads just use #12 wire and a 20 amp fuse. For your fat wire for charging the wire size depends on the length. If you mount the house batteries behind the driver's seat and the alternator is on that side of the engine you can probably get by with 10 to 15 feet. At that length #6 would be the smallest I would recommend. For #6 I would suggest 80 amp fuses.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W5SG2C0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4) Standard blade fuses fit in the fuse box linked above, not mini.
https://www.amazon.com/120-Pieces-EPAuto-Assorted-Standard/dp/B01DYQ5T3O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1478727709&sr=8-5&keywords=automotive+fuses

5) Grounds are equal in importance to the +12 wiring. Any resistance will drop voltage and cause problems. When 2 items share a ground connection and that connection gets high resistance the symptoms get strange and diagnosis gets difficult. For a battery ground you need a hole drilled and a bolt run through. Star washers on both sides of the steel are helpful. You must grind away any paint. Find some ground connections that already exist to see how Sprinter did it. The battery black wire is like what you need for your house battery. Small wires around tail lights are like what you need for your small loads. The inverter should be connected with a short fat wire directly to the battery. The separator switch needs a small ground like other loads. There may be small grounds around the van that you can add to.

6) The fuse box doesn't get a ground connection.

7) The biggest risk (but least likely) is burning down the van with an electrical fire. The most likely risk is making some small arcs and blowing some fuses. A likely risk is connecting something backwards. LEDS just don't work backwards. If you connect your inverter backwards it will likely blow internal fuses, maybe fry the thing. The fan may go backwards, maybe fry. If there is arcing that involves alternator current it could kill the alternator.

Now the fierce criticism. Those coolers will kill batteries and not keep your food cold. If your van is 90F inside and the cooler drops it 30 then inside the cooler it is 60F. Not cold enough. 55 Watts is 110 Amp hours per day. You need to have a volt meter to keep from killing your battery. Do not wire an inverter like you wire a phone charger. The inverter needs short fat wiring. Search the internet and you tube about crimp connectors for fat wire and for #12. Don't strip a wire and twist it around a bolt and then tighten a nut. Look at the way wires are done from the factory in your van. No sharp edges, no loose unsupported wires. Before working on vehicle wiring disconnect the battery minus wire.

For the sake of argument, I actually have the products I have linked. I have only one battery and no disconnect switch. I upgraded the vehicle battery size. I have a vent fan, LED lights, chargers, no blender, 100 Watt solar. That makes me informed and experienced, not expert.

This is the one I recently bought, but there are nicer ones, such as this one if your budget allows. Just hook up the positive and negative from the battery to the fuse block and and then wire all your accessories to the block.

You are getting some conflicting advice here...

1. Corroded connections in your fuse block CAN cause the fuses to fail. Corrosion ANYWHERE can cause this. Corrosion --> Higher resistance --> Higher current draw --> Higher heat --> higher resistance... This will lead to a "burnt" fuse. HOWEVER, if your fuse is "BLOWN", that is black or silver inside, you are looking at an intermittent short, and should start looking for bad insulation.
   
2. I would return that fuse block, and get a different one, one that has separate circuits. Either of These fuse blocks would be better for your application. They are discreet circuits, so you wouldn't need to modify your bike's wiring to make it work. You also get one additional circuit for future expansion.
   
3. Once you get the new fuse block in place, I would put an ammeter in line with the circuit(s) that were causing your trouble, and make sure they are drawing less than spec. I'm sure you know this, but do not EVER put in a higher-rated fuse than what was specified.
   
   Hope this helps.

Hello from across the strait! Victoria here.

No worries, here are the parts I used:

Fuse Box
[Switches (available in other colours, look at the similar items)] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01APBAQSE/)
12V Lighter Ports
Voltmeter
Inverter
Battery Charger (external)

I snagged the last battery charger they had in stock for $50, looks like the price available now is significantly higher. I'd recommend shopping around. Everything else is a basic part, and of course could be easily replaced. Just make sure your switches are rated for the amperage you're going to draw from them, and that the fuses are rated the same or less than the load you put on.


Best of luck, and don't forget to post your build when you're done!

It’s this one.

I’m thinking about picking one up soon. Seems like a great deal and will help simplify installation of several amps/dsp.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Stereo-Distribution-Block-Ground/dp/B078SCQJNM/

I saw that thing on Amazon like a year ago. Interesting to see one in the wild

was looking for something similar to this Audison block as an all in one distro solution:

https://www.amazon.com/Audison-Connection-Mini-Distributor-Masseverteiler/dp/B005C8MLZW/

....

afaik, those are really the only two options for blocks of that style.

Yes, It's better to use 12v devices (lights and fan plus 12V usb chargers) than using an inverter to 120Vac and run 120v devices.

Lead acid batteries don't like to be run down past 50% routinely. It shortens their lifetime. So, you may want to consider 2 batteries.

Yes, fuses everywhere - between panel and charge controller and between charge controller and battery. Yes, between battery and 12 lights.

Wiring isn't too critical for your uses - automotive stores have wire and connectors and fuses.

Something like this can help with fuses and wiring: https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H84960111-8-Way-Lateral-Single/dp/B000VU9D20/

Consider something like this, too:
https://www.amazon.com/ISWEES-Cigarette-Lighter-Splitter-Charger/dp/B00RJVJJCI/

Good tip on the MRFB fuses.

Do you think a terminal block like this would work as both a positive bus bar and fuseholder for my high amp positive wires? It takes a common source and has 3 fused terminals. It seems like this could potentially clean up the installation quite a bit.

Agreed. I plan to start with something like this and upgrade to a real load center using Square D QO breakers in the future as cash flow allows.

I think my consumption will be around 25-30AH, I was thinking of getting a 75AH battery originally, but I may need to bump that up.

We won't have the space/capability for more than 100W of solar unfortunately. We will install wiring to charge from the alternator as we will be driving most every day.

Funds are also a concern here as we are just doing a 3-4 month trip and can't afford to invest in a beefy system, just want to scrape by to power our fridge and other small things. We could even turn the fridge off after >1 day w/o sun and we weren't mobile.

For the breaker box, would something like this work? I guess I am just confused about how to utilize fuses in my system. https://www.amazon.com/Qiilu-Holder-10Circuit-Breaker-Connectors/dp/B072C7TDMN/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520569950&sr=1-5&keywords=dc+breaker+box

Is it necessary to have fuses between the solar charge controller and battery? What about between the battery and Dometic Fridge? Inverter has a built in fuse.

Last question - I know the inverter knocks off power because of inefficiencies, is there a better way to charge things via DC DC adapters or does a DC to USB function more efficiently?

Thanks so much for your advice!

• Renology 100W solar panel on the roof.
  
• Minn Kota marine battery container
  
• 79ah AGM deep cycle battery wired in parallel with 20ah sealed lawnmower battery that I had laying around
  
• not currently connected to the truck's electrical system
  
  Currently in the process of making a new storage system which will contain the same batteries, along with a fuse box and 100amp circuit breaker for a little more peace of mind.

Yes, also, you might want to consider adding a relay and fuse block for accessories:
[Relay]( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078T8CMF6/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_bqmiDbBMSEFWX via @amazon)
[Fuse Block](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QMTAZ1W/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_yrmiDbE7ZJ4HY via @amazon)
Wiring Guide
The fuse block should be under the seat/tail in a protected area.

1.

Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.

One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).

I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals

I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals

I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.

2.

Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.

I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker

That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)

Fuse Kit

In-line Fuse Holder

---

In general, I think my system will basically look like this:

Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V

Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V

Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits

Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.

Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.

 

What do you think of this proposed setup?

I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.

But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!

Thanks! It was definitely a goal of mine to have all the wiring as tidy as possible. I suppose that's why the setup still doesn't work :). I could just toss some relays and inline fuses under the hood and be done with it, but I'd rather build a housing for that stuff. I'm hoping to find a water resistant plastic box that's big enough for at least 8 fuses and 7 relays. I'd use something like this perhaps for the positives, and a smaller bus for the negatives. I'd like to mount the whole contraption on top of the brake booster. I'm struggling with that right now, though, trying to source a good sized box and figuring out how to mount it.

Will this work? I found the one you used but its a bit more expensive and isn't eligible for prime shipping. Will a 2 amp fuse work for the cb?

Hi, thanks for the reply! Dealing with AC power seems a bit scary for a completely unexperienced person like me. I was trying to stay away from inverters, but I may not have a choice with my laptop. How much efficiency is lost from going from 12v to 110 to 19? On a separate note, have you had any experience with wiring 5v usb charger ports to the battery? Could I just use dc to dc converters with heatsinks?

 

Also, I'm a bit confused about the fuses. Right now I'm planning on hooking up the battery to 3 switches (master, 12v cig outlets, and usb), two 12v cig outlets, and two usb ports (usb on one connection). Between those things, I was thinking of setting up a fuse box with one of these with a 3a fuse for the usb ports and possibly 5a for the car chargers? I don't know if it would be better to use 3a since I'm just going to have a dew heater and maybe (if I can find an adapter) a charger for my laptop.

If I were to use the kind of fuse setup you mentioned, how would that work? It says it includes 40a fuses, would I just replace those with 10/15a? Also, if I were to use those wire fuses for each connection rather than a box like that, is there any downside to using different gauge wires? The website mostly says those wire fuses are 10 or 12 gauge while I was planning on using 16. I'm honestly not sure if I even need 16 for the setup or if I should just go with a thicker wire like 12 gauge for the entire setup.

 

I'm very interested in those powerpole connections.Do you have an example on your setup on how they are connected to the different components both inside the battery container and outside? Did you use the powerpoles on the inside or just normal wiring with insulated terminal connections?
>Edit: For external use of those powerpoles, would you remove the 12v adapter male end from the wires on the device, connect the wires to their associated powerpole connection, and then plug that into the powerpole box?

 

Thanks!

Do you have a multi meter? Is the battery dead? Seems like a silly question, sorry. If that's all your going to run off your fuse block, you might not need that heavy duty thing. The only thing drawing the most amps is your bilge pump. I'm guessing around 15 amps. You won't need the ground bus bar if everything is on the battery. The negative side will essentially keep everything grounded.

I would think you only need something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QMTAZ1W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1457629487&sr=8-3&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=auto+fuse+block

You just need to hook up the positive side of the battery to the post. Then properly fuse each output. Then run a return line to the negative terminal of the battery.

Most of my experience is navy radios and wiring police cars with all their sirens,lights, radios and what not.

Our grounds were essentially the body of the car which is connected to the negative end of the battery.
Just pay attention to your wire Guage too.

Here is what I crudely drew

This is the Radio

This is the Fuse Box

Basically where the fuse is going for the Radio I was wondering if I could cut them off and have it go from the fuse box to the radio and put a 15 amp fuse in and get the same results.

The fuse box on the radio is supposed to be plugged directly to the battery for max power but the auxiliary fuse box will be plugged the same way.

If not that's fine I just wanted to make sure before I went and cut it out and I will just run a wire from the battery to the radio.

I actually just bought this for a project on my jeep. Works really well and is pretty small.

Is there any reason why you wouldn't just buy a normal 12v relay and run it to the ignition switch from the fuse panel instead of spending $60 on one with a relay built in? For example use these:

https://www.amazon.com/OLS-6-Way-Blade-Indicator-Protection/dp/B00QMTAZ1W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497658098&sr=8-3&keywords=fuse+panel

https://www.amazon.com/OLS-Split-Charge-Relay-Switch/dp/B01MYPTVJD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497658136&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=12v+relay&psc=1

> they give off gases that may be dangerous. Is that anything to worry about if I have a roof vent fan and another fan running inside while I sleep?

Nah. Even if you were to leave a dead battery charging in the sun, or a full battery depleting in the dark, you'd notice the gas (smells like rain) before it'd become an explosion hazard, and it's gases that'd wake you up and make you feel uncomfortable enough to start changing something before they could hurt you from breathing them. It's not like Carbon Monoxide, which will make you sleepier while killing you or anything. One has to kinda try pretty hard to enclose it (made even more difficult in a vehicle), with way more battery, to get an explosion or fast enough asphyxiation with that kind of stuff. Just ventilate all the time, even if passively, like you said.

> I'm confused as to how I hook up 12v outlets to my charge controller so I can actually charge things.

I know some controllers have load monitoring, but I find that feature pretty much useless, and it's the only reason I can see to hook up loads through the controller. Maybe put your fridge on it, in case your battery bank takes a dump, so you don't also lose a fridge full of food, but otherwise, I prefer to run the solar charger straight to the battery, and run all loads off of the battery. I like to use one of these as my positive bus bar and "main" distribution, right off the house bank. One fuse for alternator charge circuit, one for solar, one for inverter, and one for less-demanding loads through a guy like this.

Only snag it's 60A. It'll be fiiiiiine



Qiilu Universal 60A Car Auto Vehicle Stereo Audio Power Fuse Box Holder Block 1 In 3 Ways Out Distribution Fuseholder for Bus Truck Motor Boat Marine Trike Refrigerator https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074M7RRG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B4dECb66WSNH3