Reddit reviews 3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil, 8 oz.

Ok, I'll try my best to explain here. It's a long and labor intensive process, but there's no thought involved, and nothing to screw up like with some methods.

First, you're going to need a few supplies
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• Spray adhesive, I used Loctite General Performance Lightweight Bonding adhesive
  
  
• Oil for the sanding, I used 3-IN-ONE oil
  
  
• Sandpaper of several grits, I used a bunch of big packs from Lowes, but a multi-pack like this would be ideal
  
  
• Adhesive remover, I used Goo Gone
  
  
• An X-Acto style knife, I used one I just had laying around so sorry no link
  
  
• Some rags to wipe up the metal filled cutting oil
  
  
• Masking tape
  
  
• The thinnest tape you can possibly find
  
  
• A screwdriver for the burr chamber and another for the burrs themselves. I recommend a torque screwdriver for the burrs, but it's not strictly needed.
  
  Now, for the chamber sanding
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1. Cut out 6 squares each of the 220 grit, 320 grit, 400 grit, and 800 grit sandpaper that will fit the entire burr on them. If you like shine and don't mind the time it takes, throw some higher grit in there too.
   
   
2. Take the outer burr carrier out of your grinder, remove the spring from it, and set it aside. Then unscrew the inner burr, you'll be attaching the sandpaper to this burr first.
   
   
3. Take one of the squares of your 220 grit and spray the back with spray adhesive then press your inner burr on it. Wait for it to dry. Then cut off the excess sandpaper from the edges and middle leaving only a ring of it.
   
   
4. Tape your inner burr to the outer burr that's still screwed into the burr carrier with masking tape. Work around the standoff post things.
   
   
5. Apply cutting oil to the sandpaper.
   
   
6. Put the assembly of two burrs in the burr chamber (making sure the spring is out of the carrier) and spin it around with gentle pressure. Take it out from time to time to wipe off the oil and metal. Continue until the sandpaper is worn out.
   
   
7. Repeat 3-6 two more times to use 3 discs. You'll need the Goo Gone to clean the burr to attach the next disc.
   
   
8. Repeat steps 3-7 for each size of sandpaper. You should use 3 discs for at least 220 and 320, and can probably go down from there. Those sizes do most of the work and the rest polish.
   
   Now your chamber is sanded to be perpendicular with the driveshaft. But your carrier does not perfectly match, not yet.
   
   Now, for the carrier sanding
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9. Screw your inner burr back into the grinder. If you have a torque screwdriver that is ideal, but at least try to be even. Unscrew the outer burr from the carrier.
   
   
10. Take one of the squares of your 220 grit and spray the back with spray adhesive then press your outer burr on it. Wait for it to dry. Then cut off the excess sandpaper from the edges and middle leaving only a ring of it.
    
    
11. Tape the outer burr, without carrier, to the inner burr. This will be a massive pain in the ass to pull off and you'll need the thinnest tape you can get. The standoff posts will have to go over the tape this time.
    
    
12. Apply cutting oil to the sandpaper.
    
    
13. Put the carrier over the two burrs that are affixed to the chamber, apply gentle pressure and spin it to sand down the carrier. Same way you did with the chamber sanding.
    
    
14. Repeat with multiple grits and multiple discs of each grit the same way you did with the chamber.
    
    Your carrier now has a parallel surface to your chamber. Which is also perpendicular to the driveshaft! Congratulations, your grinder is aligned the best it can be this side of a machine shop!
    
    Final steps and notes
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• Make sure to clean your grinder before using it.
  
  
• Make sure to flush your grinder with at least a few doses of coffee before using it.
  
  
• When you're doing spray adhesive, have it in a box or something to not make a mess.
  
  
• Rubbing alcohol, acetone, dish soap, etc all do nothing on the spray adhesive. You do need the Goo Gone and will have to run out to a hardware store and buy it like I did if you don't try to skip it.
  
  
• If you opt to use any water on your burrs for cleaning, dry it off right away. The SSP burrs are coated, so it's not as bad as if you did it to Ditting burrs, but still dry em.
  
  
• You can repeat the chamber sanding once the carrier is done for a theoretically slightly more perfect surface, but it's not really necessary.
  

This is the oil I use. C2 has a video covering basic maintenance.

I use this traditional 3 in 1 oil on my tools and I'm extremely happy with the results.

Just put some on a cloth and wipe the tools down rigorously.

Dry teflon bike chain lube can really smooth out a trigger. Makes cleaning easier too but I still use 3 in 1 oil on the major moving parts.

I'm a big fan of 3-in-1 household oil for this sort of thing.

https://www.amazon.com/3-IN-ONE-Multi-Purpose-Oil-8-OZ/dp/B0083V8MAS/

It's a good lightweight general purpose oil.

Also, odds are the motor isn't completely sealed, if you take off the housing and maybe a few other parts (or maybe a sticker), there might be a little rubber cap at the end of where the shaft should be. Take that off and add oil there. Be sure to replace the cap!

Don't use WD-40, it's not meant to be used as a lubricant long term. Look for a machine oil for use in lubricating.

https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-10038-Multi-Purpose-Pack/dp/B0083V8MAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483556998&sr=8-1&keywords=machine+oil

I imagine this would work fine.