Reddit reviews Ampper Battery Switch, 12-48 V Battery Power Cut Master Switch Disconnect Isolator for Car, Vehicle, RV and Boat (On/Off)
We found 4 Reddit comments about Ampper Battery Switch, 12-48 V Battery Power Cut Master Switch Disconnect Isolator for Car, Vehicle, RV and Boat (On/Off). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Heavy Duty: ABS plastic housing, durable made for safety use, rear cover insulates terminals against any short of circuits, equiped with 4 sets of bolts.Operation: On/Off 2 positions, 275 A continuous at DC 12V, 455 A intermittent at DC 12V, 1250 A momentary at DC 12V.Compatible: used for DC 12 - 48 V systems to isolate and secure the electrical system, can stand alone or be locked together with other switch.Purpose: eliminate any power draw from the battery when vehicle or boat is not in use, disconnects the battery safely.Copper terminal stud size: 3/8" (10 mm) x 2, very easy to install, universal used for car, vehicle, Rv and boat, also electrical equipment's switch.
Ran an electrical system in my Subaru with an auxiliary battery charged off the alternator.
80 Amp isolator relay (switches charging on while car is running):
https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP38-80-AMP-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001HC6UJ0
100AH 12V AGM battery: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C
2Ga Wire running the length from the Relay in the engine bay to the battery.
Kinda Extra things:
Kill Switch: https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Switch-12-Disconnect/dp/B07413JWLD
100A inline Fuse
Multimeter (read current voltage, Amperage, etc): www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/
First thing I would do is take out the brake lamp bulbs and see if it's still draining. If that fixes it, add them back in one-by-one until the vampiric drain comes back -- at least that will narrow where the problem is.
If that doesn't fix it (and I would guess that it won't, honestly -- I don't see how a bulb could trigger a vampiric drain, but I'd still want to test it because it's easy to check off), you're unfortunately looking for a short somewhere (which is going to suck tracking down).
The possibly-easier-but-maybe-a-terrible-idea (and honestly what I'd probably do in an older car, though this will be harder in a more modern car) would be to move the electric feed for that circuit from always-hot to ignition-on. That's not ideal (because now your brake lights don't work with the car turned off, which is how they are supposed to work) but its better than the battery dying all the time.
Other, less invasive/janky options: plug it in nightly. You can get a quick-disconnect battery tender (http://products.batterytender.com/Automotive/Battery-TenderR-5A-Power-Tender-Series-High-Efficiency.html) but you (obviously) need one that can cover the 5A draw, so the cheaper (low-amp) ones won't save you.
But the easiest and cheapest option is get a battery disconnect (like https://smile.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Vehicle/dp/B07413JWLD/ref=sr_1_4), but if you have stuff that depends on a constant feed (like radio settings or whatever), that could be annoying. And, of course, you have to remember to switch it off when you park it.
You can use a breaker fuse, but I’m always worried that the lever arm will wear out. I would use a high amp battery switch like this: Ampper Battery Switch, 12-48 V Battery Power Cut Master Switch Disconnect Isolator for Car, Vehicle, RV and Boat (On/Off) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07413JWLD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y5LzDbHDH0EDK
That would work well.
There's also the low-tech version
Turn on when vehicle is running, turn off when vehicle is off.