Best car battery accessories according to redditors
We found 342 Reddit comments discussing the best car battery accessories. We ranked the 145 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 342 Reddit comments discussing the best car battery accessories. We ranked the 145 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Weird, I get this: https://www.amazon.com/Amazonbasics-Jumper-Cable-10-Gauge-12-Foot/dp/B074DMCRNF
Not hard. Do you want the super easy and lazy way?
Get a battery tender quick disconnect and then get the usb port that plugs directly into it.
Quick disconnect: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ
USB port: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Smartphone/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=pd_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DJ5KEF4&pd_rd_r=YJ39F7M010D2BW6GZEY0&pd_rd_w=ANaFZ&pd_rd_wg=QpvAv&psc=1&refRID=YJ39F7M010D2BW6GZEY0
You know how to use a multimeter? Disconnect negative cable, put meter in series with battery, set to amperage. Then pull fuses one at a time until you get 0 amps being pulled. This will at least tell you what's causing it. Also this thingy
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disconnect-Knife-Switch-Terminal/dp/B06XD9344Y/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1517617758&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Car+battery+post+switch&psc=1
Already been to a therapist to try and fix my marriage. I suggested purchasing this and this for my wife to use during foreplay, but he had some objections. :(
I feel you friend. I also went camping but did take one of those car jump all in one batteries along with a 12 volt power adapter for my machine. it had worked the previous camping trip for about three to four days just fine. But this time, it died at 1 a.m. the first night and I was awake the rest of the night. I simply cannot sleep without my cpap at this point. The rest of the trip was a misery, next night slept in the passenger seat of my Prius with the CPAP plugged and car on (on but not running). trying to sleep in a seat sucks, but the car turned itself off every hour so it was hardly any better than that first night. I believe the next night I slept in the bed of a truck with a CPAP plugged in in the truck (again, on but not running) through the little back window and it worked much better. Until it rained.
So the NEXT camping trip I got my shit together.
Get a deep marine battery. These are designed to power small things on a boat and are used to the small dribble of electricity over a long period of time. Get a battery box to place it in for safety, and a battery tender to charge it before the trip. You'll want a ring terminal harness to attach to the battery posts, and a female 12 volt adapter to plug your machine into.
The box contains everything safely with just the plugs you want sticking out the slots in the lid, but if there's small children in the camp you may want to ratchet strap it closed to be on the safe side.
I got battery and box at my local walmart. The rest from Amazon.
Female cigarette adapter:
Battery Tender Black 081-0069-8 Female Cigarette Adaptor for Quick Disconnect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_173UCbVCXJH0M
Ring terminal harness:
Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7-3UCbPET1K8N
Battery tender to charge your battery:
Battery Tender 12 Volt Junior Automatic Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ak4UCbQYJBZCA
And of course you'll need to get the 12 volt power adapter. Look up the model maker of your CPAP machine and Google away to see where you can find one. I looked for my manual and then I found the one that was recommended in the manual along with recommendations. Mine recommends I do not use the water chamber when using the 12 volt power adapter due to power consumption and no way am I risking the battery running out of power before the trip is over. I got the adapter from a generic CPAP supplies website.
Good luck! I'm going camping this summer I hope my setup still works!
I usually camp out of state with family and have a few nights in a house before heading home. I always bring a new face mask new filter and even a new hose if I have one as after camping the machine reeks of woodsmoke and it drives me absolutely batty.
Edited to fix oh so many typos.
PS: I will edit the links more pretty when I'm on a desktop sorry about the non pretty formatting
Sounds like the tender harness that I've got with the in line fuse https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ for a tender.
I took my first bike (2001 ninja 250) from NC to seattle, coast to coast, 2 months after I got it. Long trips are great as long as you prepare for them.
1 - Maintenance. If there are any intervals that will happen during or soon after your trip, do them before you leave.
2 - Get roadside assistance or something similar. At least have the number for a tow truck.
3 - Make sure you can charge your phone/other stuff. Basic hookup involves something like this, or a battery tender cable with an adapter. I did the second one, with the quick disconnect between my seat (where the cable comes out from the battery) and my tank bag, where all the wires are.
Getting to the actual riding part...
1 - Wind isn't as much of a problem as you might think. It can suck, but if you stay relaxed it'll be just fine. Remember, the bike will always want to stay up, so just let it do its thing. (your bike weighs ~650lbs, it's not going to be too badly affected anyway)
2 - Take breaks! At least once an hour, pull over for 30 seconds or so and get off the bike. Walk around it, drink some water. Fatigue has a nasty habit of creeping up on you without you realizing it.
3 - Stay hydrated and fed, and keep a bottle of water with you.
That's all I have for right now, I'll edit later if I think of something else
edit: get some earbuds or a big old speaker if you're against headphones while riding. Hours upon hours of road without a radio or anything gets boring insanely fast.
pffft... if I needed speaker cables that big, I would hack up a pair of jumper cables.
10.99 on Amazon Prime
Install one of these as well as one of these and you're good to go. That is the setup I have running to my handlebars for my phone while riding. I also installed a switch so I can stop it from pulling power when parked or raining or whatever, you can see the switch glowing red under my seat.
Personally for local or camping (not air travel) I like the 35-55 AH AGM SLA scooter batteries. (SLA = sealed lead acid aka non-spillable) If you turn of heated hose & humidification (passover humidification is okay) they will last a few nights. See the ResMed battery guide for more detailed run estimates at https://www.resmed.com/us/dam/documents/articles/198103_battery-guide_glo_eng.pdf.
Basic list of parts you need:
Depending on which CPAP machine you have:
Edit: the cigarette adapter is only optional for ResMed since it comes with a clamp adapter - Philips does not. I'd still get one though since it can bolt to the battery terminals.
There are also These I've got them on a few vehicles, very handy just a 1/2 turn or so and the battery is disconnected. They're installed on the negative side and work very nicely.
They make a battery clamp that unscrews and disconnects the beg battery cable when a vehicle will be sitting for a long time. It is commonly used on motor homes and campers. Easy to pick up at most auto parts stores.
Here is one. Top Post Battery Master Disconnect Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N729FS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_98GCCb732JJV6
No it's absolutely not worth it. Send me your address in PM and I'll gladly come down from Canada and take it off your hands ;)
The absolute WORST case scenario is you spend $13 and buy a battery disconnect switch:
https://www.amazon.ca/NOCO-ID220S-125-Amp-Battery-Disconnect/dp/B006EH9WUC/ref=asc_df_B006EH9WUC/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293024472479&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16510593331390089077&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001172&hvtargid=pla-570576828713&psc=1
When you stop the vehicle, just pop the hood a twist the switch. Boom, battery disconnected. But really, it shouldn't be too hard to fix.
Finding the current draw is easy; dump an ammeter on the battery, start pulling fuses one at a time from the fuse panel/relay box. When the power draw stops, you've found your culprit circuit.
Does it make a humming noise sitting idle? Any chance the fuel pump relay's stuck and running the fuel pump all the time?
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1502911662&sr=1-7&keywords=battery+tender
I am only aware on one user claiming there was an error and that user correlated that to his recent install of a hardwired blackvue. No real science there and highly speculative.
The way I hardwired into the 12v was simple. I bought this: NOCO GC018 12V Adapter Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
and installed on the battery terminal. It has an in line 10amp fuse and tucks away neatly under the hood. Then I ran the blackvue power cable into the car through the firewall where Tesla provides a very nice rubber plug to do so. Everything took about an hour to do (and I did it twice after doing it the first time without a fuse and it worked fine - just wanted to be extra safe)
> I can't get the bolts on the battery leads loose
Try a 10mm socket rather than a screwdriver.
Like /u/greenslither says, once you get your battery cables loose, fit this harness and use a Battery Tender or equivalent.
Endless Breeze Stand alone Fan
https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-01100WH-Endless-Breeze-Stand/dp/B0000AY2Z6/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1472756020&sr=1-1&keywords=endless+breeze+12+volt+fan
55 ah battery
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Exell-12V-55Ah-SLA-Battery-Rechargeable-AGM-replaces-UB12550-45825/186361686
12V Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
12V Male to Male Outlet Charger Cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GTOSTE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Window Vent Visors for ventilation....
I choose to keep the battery part separate. If that's what you want, here's what I got.
Battery Tender 081-0069-8... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041CDPQO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Battery Tender 081-0069-6... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
The paint on the inside of the battery terminals doesn't look like it would help with a nice connection with the battery.
I had one of those battery disconnect switches that came with my car and the "gold plate" added quite a bit of resistance that I was losing around 2 volts just going through it.
The thing is that a short in a line straight to the battery is a fire, guaranteed, there are no fuses no disconnects and the slightest touch will solder the wires, things in cars move and more than you might think, but after all is your car so is your decision if you think is not worth $20.
I use one of these
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_b
Conncted to one of these
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_b
Get a small 12v-usb adapter and you can charge most small electronics.
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F8Z445ttP-F8Z445ea-USB-Charger/dp/B0047T79TA/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1343024563&sr=1-3&keywords=12v+usb+adapter
The whole set up cost me under 25$ to make and I can charge most small electronics, my GPS, and the SAE cable lets me run my battery tender during the winter without removing any fairings. The only thing I wish I had done differently was put them all to a relay for fuse block, but they all have inline fuses so I'm not terribly concerned about it.
This: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QM94FQD1ZYPEYY78R4KZ
plus this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Smartphone/dp/B00DJ5KEF4
The first one has a number of accessories you can connect from a battery charger to heated clothing. The second is a usb adapter.
You can use one of these https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC017-Socket-Battery-Clamp/dp/B00G8WLX78 and any old car usb charger. (Can find a cheaper and simpler at Walmart or auto parts store) with a regular old 12 volt car/motorbike battery.
Maybe a bit of a deviation from the root of the problem, but if you find yourself on Amazon, I highly recommend getting one of these. Unlike a pocket tester, it's built like a tank. You can roll it up and squish it in the bottom of a backpack or pocket, crush it your tail storage or leave it under your seat permanently hooked up to your battery. It's build quality and the simplicity of it's design just exudes ruggedness and reliability.
Of course an RFID transponder alarm system or battery tester will give you a more (sometimes unnecessary) accurate reading. But all I know is, every time I've glanced under my seat and seen that LED flashing between 0%-100%, I've never regretted spending that $8.95. Eh, if not you, maybe this recommendation will help someone.
Or some god damn post shims!
First thing I would do is take out the brake lamp bulbs and see if it's still draining. If that fixes it, add them back in one-by-one until the vampiric drain comes back -- at least that will narrow where the problem is.
If that doesn't fix it (and I would guess that it won't, honestly -- I don't see how a bulb could trigger a vampiric drain, but I'd still want to test it because it's easy to check off), you're unfortunately looking for a short somewhere (which is going to suck tracking down).
The possibly-easier-but-maybe-a-terrible-idea (and honestly what I'd probably do in an older car, though this will be harder in a more modern car) would be to move the electric feed for that circuit from always-hot to ignition-on. That's not ideal (because now your brake lights don't work with the car turned off, which is how they are supposed to work) but its better than the battery dying all the time.
Other, less invasive/janky options: plug it in nightly. You can get a quick-disconnect battery tender (http://products.batterytender.com/Automotive/Battery-TenderR-5A-Power-Tender-Series-High-Efficiency.html) but you (obviously) need one that can cover the 5A draw, so the cheaper (low-amp) ones won't save you.
But the easiest and cheapest option is get a battery disconnect (like https://smile.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Vehicle/dp/B07413JWLD/ref=sr_1_4), but if you have stuff that depends on a constant feed (like radio settings or whatever), that could be annoying. And, of course, you have to remember to switch it off when you park it.
I've been very happy with the Battery Tender brand. I have a friend who uses this on his boat (it's designed not to overchage).
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-1163-Solar-Maintainer/dp/B004Q83TGO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416250584&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+solar
We use a traditional (plug in) tender on my wife's car. A fairly common setup is to permanently connect the terminals to the battery and then run the leads somewhere more convenient, like out the grill or fender. It makes connecting/disconnecting a lot more convenient.
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_z
Most people can manage to install the battery tender pigtails on their own.
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487631371&sr=1-1&keywords=battery+tender+usb
What kind of range do you want? 12V battery + adapter + Car FM adapter. Plug in your phone and you can transmit whatever audio you play. Perfectly legal under FCC Part 15 rules.
Edit: fix link
Brand, no..Your just looking for something like this. (BTW looks like they are significantly cheaper online. ~$70 is what I saw at a Sears auto center and PepBoys
http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Jumper-Booster-Cables-Tangle/dp/B00NT6ELRA/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMLVH4E?psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ANSGU?psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/FJC-45245-Parrot-Professional-Booster/dp/B004BGXNGW/
Longer length gives you more options, thicker cable and better clamps means your not standing in the rain or cold as long.
You can wire in a low voltage cut off so it shuts off the electronics you're using before the battery drops to a point it won't start. You can also just pick up a jump box and bring it with you then either run the stuff off the jump box or use it to start your Jeep if the battery gets too low.
Probably becuase there's so much exposed wire. Those terminals and wires should be upgraded like yesterday. Not trying to sound like a dick, but the charging system is one of the most important parts of any vehicle and it needs good tight connections. And a small amount of dielectric grease wouldnt hurt
Get a system like this. Or if you can just buy the terminals and get the crimp rings elsewhere, either way it's a worthwhile upgrade and much cleaner
Yes you can. To make it easier by negating the need to pull off the seat or panels to get to the battery, get yourself one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_1/185-9216454-3055567?ie=UTF8&qid=1449857423&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+pigtail
Battery tender junior.
Tuck a quick connector harness under the seat and you'll be golden.
I've had this for over a year and it works great
If you buy a battery tender it comes with one of these that the usb thingy hooks right up to. I just have it hanging out the side of my bike and I can easily tuck it up under the fairings.
when you buy a battery tender it will come with a lead for connecting to the battery, as well as a lead that has battery clamps/clips on it for temporary charging.
this "lead" has two wires on one end and a fitting like the USB adapter in /u/afeagle1021's post (except it is the MIRROR IMAGE of that fitting). The two wires will go on your battery terminals (aka posts) via loops installed on their ends that go around the battery terminal screws, where you bike's electrical system makes it's contact with the battery.
there is an indicator for polarity on at least one of the wires, make sure it is attached to the corresponding battery terminal. then you plug your bike into the tender overnight and plug the usb adapter in when you need to power your phone when you are riding.
you might need to get creative about how you run your usb cable if you want it secured and out of the way.
Link to lead sold without tender
Link to Battery Tender Jr.
Ran an electrical system in my Subaru with an auxiliary battery charged off the alternator.
80 Amp isolator relay (switches charging on while car is running):
https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP38-80-AMP-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001HC6UJ0
100AH 12V AGM battery: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C
2Ga Wire running the length from the Relay in the engine bay to the battery.
Kinda Extra things:
Kill Switch: https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Switch-12-Disconnect/dp/B07413JWLD
100A inline Fuse
Multimeter (read current voltage, Amperage, etc): www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/
Battery Tender makes a quick disconnect plug. I have one on my bike that I use to connect the tender. You screw it onto the battery terminals. I also have a USB plug that I can connect to it and charge phones, cameras, whatever.
I also have an AirSense 10 Autoset. The power "brick" provided with the unit is a conventional 120-240 VAC to DC converter. With the Ego Lawn Mower and Inverter you're converting electricity from DC to AC to DC. There will be substantial power-to-heat losses due to less-than-optimum efficiency of the power conversion.
Additionally, the AC output of the Ego Inverter (see manual, page 9) is limited to 150 Watts. At 120 Volts, this means that the current maximum it allows is 1.25 Amp. The maximum current demand that the AirSense 10 requires is 1.50 Amp. This is why the inverter's overheat is being triggered and it cuts power to your APAP; too much current is being demanded by the unit for the inverter's circuitry to handle.
I recommend following Resmed's Battery Guide using stand-alone, deep-cycle batteries.
I take my AirSense 10 camping and I recently purchased the following items, totaling to $205.56
12V 35AH batteries ship factory-charged. If used with tube heating and humidification switched off, and maximum IPAP pressure of 16 cm H2O then a single battery will last you for two 8-hour nights. See Page 7 of Resmed's Battery Guide for details of power consumption if using any of the heat settings.
I hope this helps. Feel free to ask me questions.
You can buy a 12v fan that runs off of a cigarette charger in a car. Then you can buy a $100 deep cycle marine battery and run the fan for almost two weeks. You can also use the battery to charge your phone. All in, for less than $150, you can charge your phone and have a fan for over a week without power.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SS62PS/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G8WLX78/
I can't answer all of your questions but I can say that yes the batteries should have been left on a trickle charger over the winter.
The symptoms all seem to just point to dead batteries, hopefully after charging for a couple days they'll regain their ability to hold a full charge.
As far as jump starting, I see no reason why you would not be able to, as long as your truck's battery can provide similar cranking amps.
For my merc 5.7, I use a dual purpose for starting the engine and deep cycle for boat electronics. I've got them wired with this guy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 that way both can charge when the engine is running and I don't have to worry about the boat electronics draining my starting battery.
You start with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G8WLW2Y/
Then your second battery has a socket to plug in things. Use the double headed cable to connect your battery to the vehicle cigarette lighter.
The vehicle cigarette lighter wire is small, too much resistance, not a good way to charge.
Nah op, just buy a deep cycle battery and isolator relay to charge it off your engine. Then you can silently charge things at night etc.
Also buy
12V Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wa9EybWJA9XPG
And any usb cigarette adapter for charging your devices off the battery.
As it sounds like you will be in cold weather here is a bonus. It seems pricey but is so effective. Temperature settings and everything.
DC12V Electric VACUUM INSULATED kettle boil cup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H4OYITE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ac9EybYMT5M1F
you would connect a wire to the positive terminal of your battery using an electrical lug you can pick up from any autoparts store. Then that wire goes to a switch (need to make sure it is rated for the current.) and the other side of the switch goes to the wire that was on the battery before. Or you can buy a battery lockout switch and be done...here's one on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS
You can use a breaker fuse, but I’m always worried that the lever arm will wear out. I would use a high amp battery switch like this: Ampper Battery Switch, 12-48 V Battery Power Cut Master Switch Disconnect Isolator for Car, Vehicle, RV and Boat (On/Off) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07413JWLD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y5LzDbHDH0EDK
Thanks to this thread, just put this on my bike:
USB Connector
Tender receiver
Have my phone in a case on my bars to run as a speedo/map/GPS tracker. No more limited distance.
This fits the "breaker or switch" suggestion perfectly and is exactly what its for, albeit a bit more expensive than a manual switch ;P
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00400IYTK/
Sure.
Lots of people use this one which is nice because it's got all you need built in plus some fancier features out of the box.
What I use and was talking about previous is something like this and this
I went the lazy route on this one. I don't use my truck for months at a time and I was tired of coming back to a dead battery. It's a piece of shit so I wanted to "fix" the problem as cheaply as possible. Instead of tracking down the parasitic draw, I just installed a battery disconnect switch from Amazon for $10.
Try getting a battery terminal brush and scrub the daylights out of the bolts and posts and everything, then reassemble. Get everything really tight. See if that helps
Schumacher BAF-2 Battery Post Shims
Lynx Battery Terminal End and Adapter
They're soft enough to easily conform as the terminal is tightened and they're barely noticeable once installed. I put one on my car last year and haven't had a problem.
> You state that your batteries are in series but that would make this a 24V system and you only have a 12V inverter. I think you meant they are parallel. They appear to be parallel in the photo as well.
Thank you for the observation. I've updated the page.
> Also though you have sealed batteries, they should be isolated from the other electronics incase they burst leaking acid and hydrogen gas.
I was under the impression that AGM batteries did not leak unless punctured or dropped. Would putting each battery in a container like this and let the airflow push the air out of the main container be enough?
> ...the inverter should be a larger fuse though, likely more like 60a if not 80a.
While I was testing the inverter capacity I blew its internal 40 am fuse, So i figured using a 40 am breaker would be enough. if I increase the breaker to 60 or 80 as you described, wouldn't that allow the internal inverter fuse to blow again?
> The wire you have appears to be too small for the inverter amp draw.
I am using AWG10 for these connections. Others have also mentioned that this may not be think enough. Would going to a size 6 be enough?
Thanks very much for your feedback, by the way! I'm still learning but all the comments and suggestions help a lot!
I have a charge controller, but the door is directly attached to the battery terminals. As for the camera, I used the advice from this group and bought a car charger with USB ports plugged into this:
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Adapter-Socket-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y
I had to strip the wires and crimp different terminals on them since they didn’t fit on the battery bolt.
I use a battery switch installed on the battery post and disconnect it whenever I store the camper. We did the same thing on all our vehicles/equipment growing up. Preserves the battery during storage. Once clamped on the pole very simple to open and close without tools. With a good interstate battery have had no issues connecting it after months and using the power tongue jack to hitch up.
Auto Battery Disconnect Knife Blade Switch Top Post Top Terminal Car Battery Cut Off Shut Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XD9344Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Dl13BbS7GVWVD
More like a plate of figure 8 shaped noodles. Was pleasing indeed, and quite simple once I pared it down.
New setup is a bit weird (no surprise there).. There's a battery cut-out, so I can totally kill all electronics when needed (parking / maintenance), and only a few things actually run through the normal key switch.
That effectively makes it a two key system; you need the battery cut out "key" to even be able to use the normal key. Wonkey, but it works best for the fuse block I bought (which has a common hot terminal and LEDs that indicate ground faults) and results in a lot less wire between the battery and things that need lots of power. Only the ignition, starter switch, and tail / brake light run through the key switch and its 12g hot lead. Everything else, including any accessories I install, can pull right off a fuse block that hooks to the battery through a big fat 6g wire. That's probably a good thing, since I'll be running dual headlights, probably a light bar as well, maybe an inverter, maybe CB radio, maybe some heated grips, etc.
>I trust these guys a lot
And here you are.
-Lower ball joints seeping grease: They can do that for a while. Your shop doesn't seem to want to replace them though, so.
-Leaking pan gasket: You can afford to have a lot of oil leaking for $350. Are you leaking enough to have to add oil because of the leak between oil changes? No? Then unless you are a Rockefeller (or are damaging the surfaces you park it on) I'd leave it alone.
-Struts and mounts--Because they are 'weak' and the boots are torn. Don't care about the 'torn', but weak? Maybe. Does it drive and handle ok? Are your tires wearing funny?
-Alignment: Yeah, if you do the struts, you might want to align it.
-Battery service: For $50, you can probably disconnect the battery, clean the terminals yourself. Oh, don't forget the corrosion protectors
Alternators give out anywhere from 60-130 Amps, depending on what model came with your van. A single 100W solar panel, laid out flat, is going to produce in the neighborhood of 80W for about 5 hours on a good sunny day, or roughly 400W per day. Even the smallest available alternator will produce twice that much energy in an hour of driving per day.
If you are going to charge your "house" battery off of your alternator, be sure you get a battery isolator circuit that will prevent your house electronics from draining your starter battery. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Dual-Battery-140A-Isolator/dp/B00400IYTK
First:
Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CO2myb008ZQVE
Then connect:
Battery Tender 081-0158 Black Quick Disconnect Plug with USB Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RP2mybAQ3ZYY3
Then you just connect and route a standard USB to mini USB.
I recommend this if you're gonna leave it plugged in, easier than taking off the seat!
That one is kind of weird. It looks like you need to install that whole thing and then pull the power cord out of the car and plug it into a wall? That is weird.
I would use this instead. https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1481806706&sr=1-4&keywords=battery+tender
It's a smart charger, from a USA company made in USA, and when you don't need it you put it away. I have three of them. One for my classic car, and one for each of my motorcycles.
Add in this https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=S7TZQJ2BZZ3NWG4KS2KV
You connect this part to the battery terminals and leave them there. When you want to plug it in, you just connect the cords from the tender to this. Plug and play. I also use this on my motorcycles. My car I just use the standard connection clamps that come with the tender.
Cheap, USA made, and works. Read the reviews.
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ
Here's a pic OP if you want to compare. Yeah, I doubt that's killing the juice to your bike.
Upvote. If you're not getting it fixed right away, this will ease some of your headaches. I prefer this style, but to each their own. http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS
You could also get a 12v socket - http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Socket-Eyelet-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ for instance - tap it off your existing 12v socket fuse with an add-a-fuse - http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade--Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0/ - and hide it all in the dash somewhere. That way you have no permanent mods.
If it were my trailer I'd buy a battery box and move the battery to the tongue.
That means running a bunch of heavy wire from the tongue to the back (I would use 10ga minimum since it's DC and you get a bunch of voltage loss on long runs with DC.)
Or you could build an enclosure around the battery and put a vent in the outside wall.
You'll have to make it so you can open the enclosure for maintenance.
It's weird that they would mount the battery there, you might want to point it out to the manufacturers.
> but at that rate I'm better off charging my batteries with my diesel's alternator
Yep. I frequently ask people on this sub why they think solar is so important when they're driving around in something that generates electricity already. Solar is expensive. It doesn't work in Seattle except for three weeks in August. Unless you're in the desert southwest, you need to have sufficient battery capacity for multiple days without sun which means you need an even bigger solar panel array to recharge that battery pack on the 2 sunny days during a two week period of overcast and showers.
Unless the van is parked somewhere for days and days without moving, just charge the house battery from the alternator. Even if it's parked on a sunny day, there's a huge incentive to park it in the shade to prevent the interior temps from killing anyone inside.
Using the alternator is easy. The absolute brute force, quick-n-dirty, cheap way is to run a #2 or #4 gauge wire from the positive terminal of your your van's battery to the positive terminal of your house battery through a simple switch and a high capacity (100A) fuse.
Under $10 crude switch from any auto parts store: https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS/ You use this to 'disconnect' the wire between the batteries when you park. This prevents that 60W fan you're running 24/7 from running down your starter battery. Get a better switch as your budget allows.
Better is an 'isolation relay' - there are two basic kinds. The inexpensive kind https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JCX8OY/ requires that you also find a 12v power source that goes active when your ignition is turned on. This powers the relay to connect your house battery to the alternator/starting battery. It's not a big deal, but possibly a small hassle. Any Napa, Reibes, Pep-Boys, Autozone, etc auto parts place will have one.
Or, an automatic type that senses when the voltage on your starter battery rises due to the alternator and then automatically connects your house battery so it gets charged, too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ You take the 12v cable from your van battery to one terminal. The 12V from your house battery to the 2nd terminal. And, the last terminal goes to ground.
BTW, I wasn't trying to 'burn you' but rather put some realism into your needs. At least you didn't mention electric heater or electric air conditioning like some folks do. For heating or cooking, gas/propane is the practical way to go. (There are some great, BUT EXPENSIVE, diesel heaters that can tap into your van's fuel system).
For air conditioning, there isn't any van-sized alternative other than a gas powered generator or an electrical outlet near the van.
Good choice on the fridge. And, you're right - it's not a 'now' sort of requirement.
Those battery powered LED things last forever. If you haven't bought any yet, try to get ones with diffusers - intentionally stay away from the brightest ones you can find. The issue is that in the small confines of a van, they just sear burn marks in your retinas. 'dimmer is better' I have these - multi brightness, magnetic stick on to my van's metal interior: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H731UNS/
I got the non-rechargeable ones but use Amazon Basics Eneloop- equivalent rechargeable AAA batteries: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-AAA-Rechargeable-Batteries-12-Pack/dp/B007B9NXAC/ and a USB recharger for them sort of like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZ6V99U/
I have one of these. You do not want this 2 ft from your eyes in a van: https://www.amazon.com/BUYGO-11-LED-Outdoor-Lantern-Camping/
Wait, so you want to get a C or D cell battery pack + transformer to plug a standard AC lamp into it?
That's infinitely the wrong way of doing it. The batteries won't provide nearly the life you want, a transformer would suck down power like there's no tomorrow (making the battery life even worse), and it'll be far more expensive than it has to be.
12v DC is common (boats, trailers, RVs, solar-powered systems, ect) and doesn't require a transformer to run. There's tons of batteries and appliances that run 12v and they aren't much different in price than AC appliances.
At a minimum, you'd need a 12v battery (typically lead-acid like a deep cycle, marine, or even just a regular car battery), a battery lead w/socket and a 12v desk lamp
Be sure to secure the battery, though, you don't want the tots to short circuit it.
You'll eventually need to pick up a 12v battery charger, but those things are pretty cheap, and a single charge should last a long, long time if you're only running a low power lamp off it.
Nice score, looks like it has a lot of potential and is near done. If i may add a suggestion, toss a cover on the positive terminal and make sure it is well insulated all the way to the starter/alternator so it doesn't short out. Maybe toss a quick disconnect terminal on the negative side so you can disconnect it if you leave for awhile, or in a hurry if something fishy is going on with your electrical system, never know when those gremlins can attack.
A battery tender will lengthen the life of your battery as well. Install some permanent leads so its easy to hook up and leave it on the tender whenever its parked at home.
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N729FS/ref=pd_aw_sim_auto_2?refRID=1GHJA1JCE9CTZC5R36SK
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Battery-Disconnect-Auto-Detect/dp/B0147DYUN8
https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2
This is the correct answer, OP. Get one of these.
get this and connect it to this. that way have your battery tender plug for when the bike is sitting and use the same connection for the charger and nothing is draining anything
Most auto parts has a + battery terminal replacement that has a on/off switch.. Also doubles as engine kill switch. Cant start it unless someone knows to turn the knob.
I built this setup recently:
https://old.reddit.com/r/bonnaroo/comments/bfy56y/mini_solar_rig/
A few other odds and ends brings it close to $400 total.
The charger controller is overkill for the one panel, and you don't need a lithium battery necessarily, but you also have to be careful what lead acid you get as most are not built for deep cycling. You can probably get a much larger capacity solar or marine deep cycle lead acid for what I paid.
Thanks for the reply. I was able to get a look at the batteries today to check the connections and noticed one seems to have been leaking. I removed it and so far the system works fine on the remaining battery.
So I'm thinking it developed a crack OR the leak is due to overcharging. How can I figure this out?
Maybe you can help me answer this question: If my batteries were topped off and then I drove for 10 hours, would my battery isolator be overcharging the batteries? And one of them finally quit?
This is the smart isolator I'm using-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
Any bike you want.
I feel like that type of switch won't hold up well. I've seen them used, not on cars, but the clamp force between them needs to be tightened. Still, it should work as intended. Might arc a bit connecting it, but what doesn't.
This is the switch I've seen used before many times.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001N729FS/ref=pd_aw_sim_auto_2?refRID=1GHJA1JCE9CTZC5R36SK
So if I were to purchase something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/OptiMATE-CABLE-47-Adapter-DUCATI/dp/B00HHPBF46
Would this work to trickle charge my battery.
I must apologise I didn't think the whole cigarette lighter battery charger thing through, as it turns out this will just blow your cigarette lighter fuse, since it may be possible that the deep cycle battery would draw to much current and since cars don't limit the current that goes through your cigLight socket ( as I originally thought). You can still charge your battery through your cigarette lighter but you will have to use this thing instead and maybe this connected to the battery to be able to charge it.
So I really don't have any links to all this since this is how we used to do it with our family outings (minus the charging the battery through the cig lighter port). At this point I'm maybe confusing you and would recommend to buy Yeti Goal Zero, since I don't feel comfortable giving advice on something that I haven't personaly tried, (charge the battery through the cig lighter thingy).
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Charger-Samsung-Qualcomm-Certified/dp/B01E764DXM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524747899&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+c+car+charger&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Adapter-Socket-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524747960&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=12v+female+socket
I'm not quite sure. I have thought about cutting the corroded terminal and attaching a new terminal but it looks like I am cutting right where the two cables combine and would not have enough wire for the terminal. I could probably try it though because I guess I have no other options with the cables current state. It looks like it may have been cut before by the previous owner(s).
If I did cut the cables and separated them I have thought about trying something like this but I think it requires crimping.
Dual battery you will at least need this:
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Dual-Battery-140A-Isolator/dp/B00400IYTK
https://www.amazon.com/Scoshe-EWFH-Single-Fuse-Holder/dp/B000KIR8M0/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y4S68RZF6CFYXAZBN52B
https://www.amazon.com/Absolute-ANL200-2-Pack-Fuses-Plated/dp/B005EUTLYW/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y4S68RZF6CFYXAZBN52B
Then its on to pwm vs mppt charge controller
and a panel and wiring.
man... this really sounds like a battery issue.
before you lose your hair and junk your jeep, go to a boat shop and look for some Zinc No Corrosion battery lugs and some crimp on ring ends. Get some dielectric grease or Noalox to fill those ring ends too. Cut the stock lead shit off. Clean your battery terminals WELL with a wire brush or a battery terminal cleaner. fill a ring with DG or Noalox, and crimp. assemble. From the same boat store, they ought to have some battery terminal protector spray too - it's red sticky, and oily too. that'll keep the water from corroding your terminals.
Parts:
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-TZKIT2-Lead-Free-Battery-Terminal/dp/B00DNU3MNG or
https://www.amazon.com/Military-Spec-Battery-Terminal-Post/dp/B00X36RILW/
https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-30-030-Anti-Oxidant-Compound-Squeeze/dp/B000LDE7V4
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Marine-Battery-Terminal-Protector/dp/B0000AZ9J4
Sort of. There's sort of a progression going on. It's a good idea to ensure you can cut the power between the two manually as a safeguard.
I used this
last time with a fuse on each battery, and just kept the accessories live to the house battery full-time. Turned it on when I wanted to charge or the odd case of boosting my starter battery from the house. Dead-simple hook up, I just had to pay attention to when I should have it on or not. Mostly cut it on before I start the vehicle, watch the dash voltmeter to know when everything's charged, then cut it off before I start using the house without the motor running.
I'm getting this one next time to replace the one above. I'll have the common on the accessories, and be able to run them off of the starter, the house, or both. "both" would also be used to charge the house off the alternator, and I'll have it there almost all the time, with the addition of a VSR (below). It also has an "off", in which nothing is connected to anything. You'd still want to wait until the engine is running to re-charge a dead house battery, and switch it to only "2" to keep from draining the starter battery, unless you install one of the next two items.
This makes a nice addition wired right alongside either switch. Tells you how much juice each battery has.
To keep everything 100% un-screw-up-able, this is going to go between my starter battery positive and my new manual isolator switch in back. If either side gets to charging voltage, it will connect to the other side. That means the alternator will always charge the starter battery, but also charge the house battery AND if I connect a charger to the house battery (like a generator or plugging in to shore; solar that fits on a van would take several days to charge a battery from dead to van-crankable), then it will automatically charge and maintain the starter battery, too. Neither can drain the other past the point it wouldn't crank the van.
Charging relays are much cheaper than a VSR, and are automatic in a more rudimentary way. This will do the job fine for most cases, and is a little less expensive than a VSR. The big lugs on it hook up just like the two on the VSR above, except it's not automatic - you hook the small poles up to stuff to tell it when to connect the big lugs. The small positive goes to the other, smaller wire going into the alternator, only allowing it to connect if the alternator is charging. The small negative can go straight to the large negative, but I'd run it through a small switch in the dashboard somewhere (and the other side of that switch back to the large negative lug) to allow me to disable charging house battery off the alternator. it's a decent blend of manual and automatic control, with a relatively tiny price tag. This pretty much needs to go under the hood, though, whereas the VSR could actually go in the power center or under the hood. Remember that either would go on the 4 gauge between starter battery and rear isolator, if present; it's the longest fat-wire in the whole system. some people skip the manual isolator switch altogether, and just go with a VSR or charging relay.
Only because I happen to have one of the first switches linked here already, I'd install it between the large lugs of the VSR or charging relay, to bypass it manually. If I didn't already have one, I'd just count on using a set of jumper cables to do that in the rare case I should need to turn that switch on.
Yea. Uses a wingnut thing. https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS
That would work well.
There's also the low-tech version
Turn on when vehicle is running, turn off when vehicle is off.
Battery, case, socket, splitter, charger
While it costs more than the orion/celestron ones, the battery is of much higher quality, it's more than twice the capacity, easily replaceable parts etc.
Sorry bro, on the other coast... WA state.
I added a [pigtail] (https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465948574&sr=1-5&keywords=pigtail+sae) and got one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465947776&sr=1-4&keywords=sae+adaptor) to get USB charging capability.
Longsleeve was essential, since I'm usually out during the day when it's hot as hell, crazy how cold even 50mph winds can get at night.
As for sunblock, started to realize 30-60 minutes with the sun beaming on me probably wasn't the best to go unprotected. Also an extra pair of ear plugs
My bike already came with this installed, which apparently can be used if you have gear that has electric warming features
Then I got this which is basically a USB adapter, use it to charge my phone or GPS etc
Maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Battery-Isolator-Voltage-Sensitive/dp/B00400IYTK
18Ah means that it would discharge or charge 18 amps for an hour, or 1 amps for 18 hours. So doing 18Ah/1,1 amp = 13,36 hours.
That being said, the recommended minimum charging current for AGMs is about 15%-25% the capacity. So 18Ah*0,15=2,7 Amps to 4,5 Amps. For that reason, I wouldn't recommend using the 1.1 amp one for that kind of capacity.
Finally for the connectors, I'd buy this cord, cut the eyelet connectors and crimp some 16 AWG piggy-back F2 connectors instead. That way, you'll be able to plug in both the charger and your fish finder at the same time while having the Noco quick disconnect.
I'd keep the wire coming with the charger intact in case I need it to charge some other battery. The clamps are quite useful especially with the quick disconnect thing. It will keep its last setting until you change it again so don't forget to change the mode if you want to charge a car battery, you would overcharge it on the AGM setting. Just select what job you want it to do before plugging in the battery.
Ask your dealer if they installed one (they're not factory equipped); if they didn't , you can get one from Amazon for less than $6
A better way? It depends. If your time is more important than the few bucks you'll save, then I would recommend using an off the shelf battery cutoff box like the ones at this link.
Otherwise, you can do it easily with an Arduino: it's a good learning project. Just use a latching relay like modoleinad suggests to reduce battery drain.
One thing to keep in mind is that normal lead-acid batteries require charging over long periods of time. If you drain your lead-acid house batteries to 50% charge (which is the maximum for deep discharge lead-acid/AGM) it will take hours of charging to bring them back up to 100%, and many people just don't drive that many hours. That's why there is usually solar which will charge all day long.
Nowadays, you can also buy Lithium Iron batteries, which don't suffer from being part discharged, and which charge much faster. But that's a bigger up-front investment.
As for how you hook up your battery pack to the alternator - you need a smart battery isolator that first fills up your car battery, and only then switches to send charge to your house battery. To keep your voltage drop to a minimum, you need thick wires to go 18 feet (which is 36 feet total, as the number that matters is the full round trip, not just one way.)
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Battery-Isolator-Voltage-Sensitive/dp/B00400IYTK for example.
> I need to take a look and see if I have the space for it under the hood (probably) but would be best if I could use a battery box in the bed of the truck.
Either way works, but it's a lot more fairly expensive wire to get back to the bed.
This is what I'm using (or something really similar): http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Dual-Battery-140A-Isolator/dp/B00400IYTK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1416450132&sr=8-8&keywords=battery+isolator
Yeah, cheap chinese stuff. But it's been fine for a couple of years so I don't feel like it owes me anything. Expect that much more in properly sized cable and cable ends.
I had this and all the accessories on a previous plow truck: http://www.hellroaring.com/bic75150.php
It's really nice, but more than I wanted to spend for the foul weather/off road toy the new setup is on.
OK, should these things happen again, here are some things you should keep in the trunk.
A tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter. It won't help much with larger leaks, but for smaller ones it'll let you reinflate the tire long enough to get to an auto shop.
If you want to plug a leak, you'll need a tire repair kit. This isn't as simple to use as the inflator (you'd want to practice or at least see it done first), but it's not rocket science either. A word of caution though: the needles used in those kits have been known to break, so don't do what that guy did at 2:48 where he was lucky not to give himself a vasectomy.
If the nail or whatever is still in the tire, then you'll need something like vice grips to pull it out. If it's not in the tire, then you'll need the inflator to push air in and some (preferably soapy) water to see pour on the tire and see bubbles where the air is coming out.
And since this kit is $6 and has plugs to fix four flats and a shop will charge you $5 to fix one, it doesn't take that long to start saving a few bucks.
A set of jumper cables. Honestly, I don't know why dealerships don't put this in every car that drives off the lot. Here's how to use them correctly. With these, you won't need to call AAA for (most) dead batteries, just find some kind soul willing to let you jump off of their car. For jumper cables there's a few things you want to look for:
I have something like this up front: https://www.amazon.com/Goodway-Universal-Motorcycle-Waterproof-Rotation/dp/B07BRR9RPM/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1550853589&sr=8-13&keywords=motorcycle+phone+mount
The cable runs under the tank all the way back under the rear seat. I cut off the ring terminals and attached this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Tender-SAE-DC-Power-Automotive-DIY-Connector-Cables-2x0-75mm-30cm-300mm/142428764913?epid=1238902560&hash=item21296a7af1:g:j6sAAOSwWxNYyOzV:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true
I also have the standard battery ring terminal that comes with the battery tender running from the battery all the way back under the rear seat as well. Basically this from the battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1550854062&sr=8-6&keywords=sae+connector
The end result is you have 2 SAE connectors under the seat. One that runs to the battery and one that runs to the USB charger.
If you want to use the the charger you linked and if you already have a cable that is long enough, you can run the cable from the battery to the rear, then loop it around and run it to the front. Under the seat simply cut the red cable and just put any switch of your liking in-line: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1311.R1.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xtoggle+.TRS0&_nkw=toggle+switch&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=293&_odkw=switch&LH_TitleDesc=0
Let me know if you want more pictures of my setup. I can snap some up (currently the bike has fairings/seat off since I am getting it re-padded).
https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS
​
While you are figuring out what the issue is. . .
So you buy a 14$ battery box and pop a fuse on the positive lead.
The balancing method uses two terminal blocks, one for positive and one for negative. Similar to [these](Positive Insulated Battery Power Junction Post Block 3/8 Lug X 16 thread (Red & Black Set) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SCSXVO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_foD1BbY04V5HW) Each battery is connected to the terminal block by a wire of equal or near equal length. This ensures that each batteries resistance is the same.
The inverter is then connected to the same terminal blocks.
Get these Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kZ.tzb78XRSC3
Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V, 0.75A Battery Charger will charge and maintain your battery so that it is ready to go when you are! It's lightweight, fully automatic and easy to use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y4.tzbARX0FQZ
They also sell them as a package at most battery stores. I can't tell by the description if the tender includes the adapter as well.
Every time you get home plug it in and leave it plugged in.
In terms of having something to charge a battery without taking the seat/unscrew everything, you could get him something like what you've linked but I would opt for a SAE connection cable. SAE connections are much more common for accessories (like chargers or USB connectors) than the BMW cigarette style.
This is what I have on my bike for battery tenders and separate USB plugs
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498076141&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+cable - $6
You could easily get him this in addition to whatever else.
edit - fixed link
Ducati battery tender
We used this battery tender to connect the wiring harness and had to replace the 3 amp fuse with a 15 from the fuse box note the manual where to find it.
I wouldn't make the cables any smaller, I'd try to find a terminal style that fits the cable. Copper wire is very expensive and new terminals are like $5 and easy to change.
With regards to stacking, I don't like doing that. I prefer to crimp a lug to the end of the cable and attach those to the terminals, similar to this: (https://www.amazon.com/Military-Spec-Battery-Terminal-Post/dp/B00X36RILW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=battery+terminals&qid=1558971029&s=gateway&sr=8-4)
You can also find terminals that accept multiple cables if you just want to poke them in and crimp them down.
At the end of the day, don't overthink it. You want a good connection between the battery post, the terminal, and the cable. There are a few ways to make this happen, and if you get it wrong, the car won't start :D
Good luck!
Yep. All of you were right. Battery was toast. Replaced today and spliced in new terminals. Started right up.
Fastronix Military Spec Battery Terminal Top Post Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X36RILW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QDp0Cb43K2W1C
I wouldn't cut the end off the fridge, I'd think just use one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Socket-Eyelet-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R97VAZJ3VP025AT786SY
A lead collar is a round cylindrical shell made of lead that fits between the battery post and the wire terminals and takes up the slack. A split collar has a slice taken out of the side to let it flex. Something like this or this.
I would try to avoid permanent changes. After all, perhaps you just have a battery with unusually small posts. But if you can make the ID of the terminal smaller, then that will make it tighter.
This so what I have: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Maintain-Damaging/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539529909&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=battery+tender&dpPl=1&dpID=41GJoSjcVrL&ref=plSrch
Paired with this pigtail lead which sits in my glovebox: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ
Do not cut into or splice off of your wire harness. Get a battery tender pigtail that connects directly to your battery (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_-1cAzb8YDMYBC). Then use a 'Battery Tender SAE to USB adapter to plug a USB cable into (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_r3cAzbN5DASR2). This was you can charge you bike when parked for a while and have the freedom to run the USB cable to your bars for your ram mount or into your bags to charge extra gear.
Something like this?
Thank you! This is really helpful for me. I think I'll go with your approach of using a 12v socket USB adapter (most likely in the glove box); I don't want to risk a shoddy cable giving me problems when it's really hot/cold.
I'm relatively inexperienced when it comes to electronics/car customization, so pardon any trivial questions.
Shopping List:
thinking of mounting these guys somewhere if i run out of room and just run some extra cable. https://www.amazon.com/Positive-Insulated-Battery-Junction-thread/dp/B009SCSXVO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493353404&sr=8-3&keywords=battery+bus+bar
In lieu of the switch I have on there, would this be a better alternative?
Edit - The goal is to not have to open the case in order to turn on power. I would also like to leave the inverter in its original state so it could be easily removed and used outside of this unit.
I'm not an electrictian, so please make sure you design your system safely. Below is how I chose to do it, but it's by no means the only way and each vehicle and system has different requirements.
The way I ran it was through a hole in the firewall to my house battery box (which is behind my drivers seat). The cable runs from the van battery with a larger terminal connector immediately to an 80amp circuit breaker next to the battery to protect against any shorting, then through the firewall, under the carpet next to the drivers door, under the driver's seat, into my battery cabinet where I connected it to a Stinger 80amp isolator, then from the stinger to the battery system. I'm running 2 6V lead acid golf cart batteries.
My old man did a similar run to charge his Lithiums while driving, but he has 2 100ah battle born LiFePO4 batteries and his 2018 promaster can handle charging them. I don't know which alternator he is running though so again your mileage may very based on what the batteries can suck down, guy have burnt up alternators before trying to charge deeply depleted lithium batteries without a B2B charger.
great idea. something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disconnect-Knife-Switch-Terminal/dp/B06XD9344Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503852609&sr=8-4&keywords=car+battery+knife+switch
For now (without this kit), I should only remove the negative (black) cable from the battery, while keeping the positive (red) attached?
https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-BAF-B1-Terminal-Cleaning-Brush/dp/B0060YHP62/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502441119&sr=8-2&keywords=battery+terminal+brush+cleaner
I added one of these to my bike.
I then plug in one of these to charge my phone.
I much prefer the modular setup as I can plug in other accessories to the same port, such as my tire inflator. However one of the direct to battery usb chargers may be cheaper.
Leave the positive alone and disconnect the ground. Also if your are going to leave the vehicle sitting for extended periods you should get a quick disconnect. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS.
All of the KT-8900Ds that I have looked at have a cigarette lighter adapter. You can buy an adapter to go between the battery and radio like this. Otherwise a bit of cut and splice may be in order. As long as you have an appropriately rated fuse, you can wire straight to the battery.
It's kinda like trying to weigh a letter for postage with a scale set up on a trampoline full of kids. It's bouncing up and down, so it looks like the letter weight is going up and down because it doesn't have a stable reference point because it's getting noise from the power line.
Laptop, you'd have to find a DC adapter for that model of laptop. Dell used to make some, not sure about other brands. They are kinda pricey considering you already have the inverter.
For phones, there are a couple different charge technologies, but they are all USB (sort of). Normal 5v USB is limited to 0.5 amps, so it charges slow. There is a higher power 5v USB, which is I believe 1.1 amps, and then there are USB charging adapters that put out somewhere around 2 amps. 2 amps is about the limit for the cable, so to charge faster than that they have what are called 'quick charge' adapters, which operate at voltage higher than 5v, either 9 or 12v depending on the device being charged.
Most of them are wall adapters, so I'm assuming that's what you mean by 'mains charging [was] faster'. But, they do make [DC quick chargers] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019OSX8UC?psc=1&smid=A142BGUZC6UH73) that will charge just as fast as the wall. It will also be more efficient than firing up a 1kw inverter to step it up to mains voltage to run a 30ish watt switching power supply that converts it back down to 5/9/12v. I'm not recommending that specific model; it seems to have good reveiws but I've never used that specific one.
Just make sure your phone supports quick charge, and know that there is quick charge, qc2.0 and qc3.0. They should be backwards compatible (it would charge at the highest voltage that both support), but I'm not 100% certain on that. You'd also need some way to connect that to the battery, something like this.
Other people mentioned the Battery Tender adapter, which is great.
This guy did a great review on some Bonneville upgrades, and the charger set up he did is excellent.
https://ericwais.wordpress.com/2015/06/20/day-21/
I am pretty sure this would mount on a ST just the same. I use this on a 60 mile round trip commute and its great. Good visibility and it keeps everything charged.
Basically get these:
Arkon Case
Tender Adapter
Battery Tender Harness
And a small piece of velco with glue on it to hold the adapter/cord to your bike when not in use.
Do you really commute 200 miles a day? Or is that just a fun trip you have planned?
I use one on my bikes. I've seen my battery get low if I'm running a lot of lights or use my E-start a few times on a short trip. It definitely extends the life of a battery.
If you get one buy one of these too:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_45gNzb60665XK
It's a harness that you attach to your battery, and you can put the quick connector somewhere so you don't always have to remove your seat. On my dirt bikes, I put them behind my air box door next to the air box, so I can access it within seconds.
I'd just put the biggest marine deep cycle battery I can fit as my starting battery, (probably group 31) and get a $100 lithium jump pack in case I ran it down.
Or
You can build your own goal zero type portable battery setup for$200-400. The Yeti 400 is a 33ah 12v AGM deep cycle battery with 300w sine wave inverter and a 12v plug in. It also has features like low battery alarm, displays power usage, and comes with an AC charger. You won't save much $ making it smaller/less powerful, but it will weigh less if you'd like to use a smaller than 33ah battery.
$50-150 for an AGM deep cycle 12v battery, 33ah
$75-150 for a 300w pure sine wave inveter, you can save more money if you don't need pure sine wave or 300w, or don't mind an always on fan
$25-50 for a 12v trickle charger to charge the battery up at home, if you don't have a charger already
$15 for a male to male 12v adapter to charge it from your car, or use your jumper cables.
$10-20 for a 12v socket or two, or a USB charger socket
$10-50 for a battery case to hold the battery and mount the inverter and sockets on
$30 on misc parts like voltage display, wire, and fuses
Oh wow thanks for the detailed explanation!! I have one of those basic ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000NCOKZQ&pd_rd_r=FEPFCNGTVQGZ1AS6BW9E&pd_rd_w=eRr1U&pd_rd_wg=vLNJB&psc=1&refRID=FEPFCNGTVQGZ1AS6BW9E
Have you ever tried them?
I have a battery disconnect switch.
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-ID220S-6V-24V-Battery-Disconnect/dp/B006EH9WUC/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1525995005&sr=1-7&keywords=battery+disconnect+switch+for+car
The batteries are not secure in all directions. They should be.
There's nothing protecting the battery terminals.
In your 2nd picture, what's going on with that stray wire? Is that a random RCA?
Tons of exposed strands at power connection points at amps. Makes no sense. That place has heat shrink with shop logo printed on it. Use it.
Wire nuts. No.
Your batteries are wired incorrectly. Positive should be connected to battery 1 then connected in parallel to battery 2. The positive jumper should be red. Not sure why they used black. The ground should be connected to battery 2 then paralleled to battery 1. Like so. Some new terminals like these would be cheap and clean up your wiring.
Cable management isn't the greatest.
/u/SirDigbyChknCasear is right, the Escort 8500 uses 12V according to the manual.
OP, I would get something like this 12V socket, figure out where the radar detector's power cord meets the vehicle's harness (presumably somewhere behind the dash), and splice this in there. Do it properly - either using solder and heat shrink or using appropriately-sized butt connectors. Don't just twist the wires together and slap on some electrical tape. From there, you can plug in the dash cam's power adapter and run its cable separately while still maintaining a fairly clean look. Depending on how the radar detector is turned on and off, you may want to add a switch somewhere.
If the dash cam has a power adapter that isn't just a standard "cigarette lighter" plug, then you can probably wire it in without the 12V socket adapter. I can't help more without more info.
You mean one of these?
http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS
Ask your dealer if that $150 includes KY or whether that costs extra, too. If you can open a can by yourself, you can install one in about 5 minutes. You just need a wrench (or socket) that fits the nut on your car's battery terminal (the black wire that attaches to the battery).
Cool, I plan on using one of [these] to isolate the two. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1Z9PJN6YB119)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0748GKHZ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518115896&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=80w+folding+solar&dpPl=1&dpID=51GlBo5rIvL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K8E0WAG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518115963&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=35ah+battery+deep+cycle&dpPl=1&dpID=51TNL6zn1RL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518115996&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=12v%2Bbattery%2Bsocket&dpPl=1&dpID=511ZvmcpmsL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
I thought of getting the yeti 150. But went with this instead due to 2-3x capacity, and cost. The only thing i didn't get was an inverter, which i don't need
Links to some of the things I purchased and am happy with:
Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station
Hakko FX-901/P Cordless Soldering Iron
NOCO GC018 12V Adapter Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal
Carviya 12V 24V Heavy Duty 16 AWG 15A 20A Male Plug Cigarette Lighter Adapter
I got a 40ah AGM for $140 at Interstate battery not too long ago and it worked perfectly on my last tent camping trip. Got 4 nights of out it without power. No humidifier and heated tube of course. See if there is a dealer local to you. I've seen cheaper AGMs also but this is an investment if you go camping often The dealer also will charge my AGM for free every 6 mo. Get a volt meter to take charge measurements. Grab a cigarette lighter plug hardwire kit that can handle the amps you need and hardwire it to the terminals. The clamps that came with my kit are almost worthless.
Quick question regarding battery storage - what sort of containers are ideal for storing lithium ion/"lipo" batteries? I am currently forced to store them in my living space and it makes me a little nervous since I have no protective bin of any sort.
​
These battery boxes would do nothing for a li-ion battery fire, right? What is the correct alternative?
If you want something longer for convenience go with these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E9ANSGU/ref=s9_topr_hm_b13xTR_g263_i1
Since this is /r/frugal though, the shorter the cable the thinner it can be and still carry the same current. So if you want to save some bucks you could go for something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ELASYIA/ref=s9_simh_hm_b13xTR_d0_g263_i1 (the 12 foot option)
I have mine hard-wired to the fuse box (on only when ignition) - I did not use a kit, rather used a piggy back fuse thingy and this for pluggin it in (cut the red-end to attach it to the tap-fuse end).
It is more stable/better quality than the kits... and has an inline fuse for added protection.
Definitely better to use a trickle charger lead with a fuse.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HHPBF46?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=E0C16K3XS36A8PZ1W1R4
I do have a shore power charger that has an in-line battery meter. I'm not sure how accurate it is though. The battery sat for 3 months, after being fully charged, in the unheated trailer in 5-15F temps. When I finally got there to connect the charger, the battery meter still read 100%. It is a brand new deep cycle battery meant for solar, but I didn't it expect to hold 100% charge all winter like that.
EDIT: The "battery monitor" I have is an in-line one on the NOCO Genius GC015 terminal connector.
That is a terrible battery box. The acid will eat the box. They make acid proof plastic battery boxes. With provisions for straps. Just make sure you buy a battery box for the correct size of battery.
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-HM318BKS-Snap-Top-Automotive-Batteries/dp/B004W5SG6Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496187688&sr=8-2&keywords=battery%2Bbox&th=1
This and the clamps come with the Battery Tender I bought. I have the connector on at all time and tucked under the pillion seat. You can also get cig and usb connector for it too.
Even a shim would work, these are crazy cheap and easy, and work! http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-BAF-2-Battery-Post-Shim/dp/B0060YI0YS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0BDZMX39Q4B0EX4NYCX6