Reddit reviews Aqueon QuietFlow LED PRO 75 Aquarium Power Filter
We found 8 Reddit comments about Aqueon QuietFlow LED PRO 75 Aquarium Power Filter. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Certified flow rates that assure proper water circulation for improved fish healthHigh flow rates for optimal dissolved oxygen content to promote healthier, more active fishProvides mechanical, chemical, biological and optional, additional specialty pad filtrationSelf-priming filter pump will auto-start initially or restart if power is interrupted and restoredInternal pump design helps dampen noise and eliminate leaks with self-priming featureLED indicator light flashes when water cannot pass through the cartridge, generally indicating it's time to change the cartridgeUses Two Large Aqueon Replacement Cartridges and Size 20/75 Specialty Filter Pad
That is a red eared slider. It is quite possibly the most popular pet turtle species. These turtles are popular because they're prolific and they look like little turtles, unfortunately in a few years that little turtle will have grown exponentially. Most of the time it's a parent who bought the turtle for a kid, kid loses interest, parent doesn't know what to do...
Do not release the turt. It would die in Toronto and even if it did not, environmentally if anyone releases a non indigenous species into the wild, although it sounds harmless enough there are large implications when it comes to OTHER reptile populations. This little turt could mate and create a bunch of other turts that eat up food sources etc...
1A.
A 10 gallon tank would be a great starter tank for a RES this size. 10 gallon tanks usually run about $10 at petsmart or petco so there is probably a similar cost up there
1.B
You will need two lights to run during the day:
1 UVB fixture with a bulb
and 1 heat lamp. Some people splurge and purchase heat lamp bulbs specifically made for reptiles, however I have found that using a household bulb provides the same amount of heat. User a bulb that the fixture can handle.
1C.
The turt will need a basking platform. There are super cool options but simple and efficient is the way to go if you're starting.
1D.
You will need a filter. Turtles poop a lot more than fish do so when you're shopping for filters always double the GPH needed to account for the extra nitrates.
1E.
You will need food. Every food is different and let me tell you from experience that you can spend hours researching what is best to feed your turtle...
Protein:
I have learned that omnivorious turtles such as a red eared slider do well if they are started with a protein rich diet and then transition into adulthood with an omnivorous diet.
I would suggest doing the following: go to the grocery store and buy a small Salmon fillet. It may seem silly, but it will last you a very long time. Keep the Salmon in the freezer and feed the turt a few small strips (a serving size should be thought of as, if the turts head were empty, how much food could you fit in it). Make the strips small enough so that the turtle can swallow it.
Feeding tip: Salmon or any other form of protein such as bloodworms, krill etc... can be quite messy because of the amount of oil in the meat. Many turtle keepers (me included) prefer to feed turtles outside of the tank in order to keep the living tank clean. get a small rubbermaid tub or something, make sure it's clean of course and fill it up with enough water for the turt to float around. feed the turt in that water, when you're done, discard the water and put the fat n happy turt back in the living tank. This method lowers the frequency of water changes and keeps the tank cleaner. Handling the turtle like this to feed is also helpful to make the turtle okay with being handled.
Calcium:
As you will read, reptiles need calcium in order to stay healthy. Snakes need calcium in the form of rat bones, bearded dragons eat crickets but turtles do best when supplemented with a cuttlebone. There are turtle specific cuttlebones but they're more expensive and the only real different is that they do not have the hard backing that the cuttlebones for birds have. All you have to do to remove the backing is toss it in a saucepan, boil it for a minute or so, let it cool and then that backing can peel off. This also softens up the cuttlebone some. It's not easy to get the backing off in one fell swoop, but turtles don't care if the cuttlebone is in one big piece or if it's in little white chunks. Calcium supplementation is vital for young turts just as the protein is. Once a week or so is good for calcium.
I have rambled. I am passionate about reptiles so I tend to nerd out. Anyway. Please feel free to PM me with questions, I would really love to help in any way.
Chad
Presently, this filled with ammonia stones and two 8", incredibly lazy plecos.
Mostly if there is a space for custom media.
Reliability was the same for me (Emperor, AquaClear, Marina S10 - S20, Aqueon, smallest old Whisper HOB, small Biomaxx-like HOBs).
Alright...time to start typing out this monster.
Ive been reading guides and stuff, but i have a terrible memory when reading things, and theres some stuff i want to double check, etc.
Im looking to set up my old 29 gal tank from when i was a kid (its been empty for 10+ years). My goal is to do a planted tank with primarily tetras and shrimp...maybe a pleco and perhaps another type of schooling fish.
I probably wont be able to start cycling for ~2 weeks or so, though by the time i buy stuff on amazon, etc thats probably a decent timetable.
This light was suggested to me by another user. Should be sufficient for growing plants in a low tech system, right?
Ive seen various numbers for how 'oversized' a filter should be. Right now im kinda looking at these two (1) (2). Any comments on brand? It looks like i can get either one in bigger/smaller sizes. 400gph seems like it might be a bit overkill...but is 250 too low?
Ive read that often the agitation in the surface water by the filter is enough to provide sufficient gasses to the plants/fish...do you think that ill be true in a low tech tank? Would an aerator help? I dont think i'll mind having bubbles coming up in the background if it will, but am i overthinking this?
I wish i had saved more links on substrate and sand and all. Any recommendations for substrate for plants? Would probably like black stuff. I think this is the one i had read about being good?
Thinking about doing a bit of gravel in the tank, but i'd also like to do some sand. Maybe something like 2/3 sand (maybe a couple different types?) and then the rest gravel? Thoughts/concerns?
I thought i had read somewhere that people often use blasting sand (rinsed well)....anyone have comments on that? I could probably get some for cheap from work, though im not sure i want dark sand...
Best place to get a larger piece of driftwood? Ive looked around online a bit and have seen a ton of different sites and whatever, but was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for where to go. Im probably going to want one big piece, and then i can get smaller pieces from wherever.
I assume when im doing water changes and stuff im going to want to bypass our water softener? Our water is supposed to be pretty hard, do i want to maybe mix softened with unsoftened? (ive seen a lot of stuff about adding minerals to pure RO water, but havent seen much on softeners)
Im sure ill think of more, but this should at least be a good start...
Edit: Best place to get rocks and stuff? I'd like a couple for a natural look, im just not sure where to get them. I could get some red granite around here, but im not sure how that'd work, and it seems like it'd be really heavy...?
I haven't given that much thought. I would like to spend under 200 bucks if I can (on the stand only). I live in a very rural area so I'm limited to amazon or building something myself. I assumed 50 bucks for a filter and I wasn't sure what the lighting would run, though.
Probably one of these two.
*https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06079-QuietFlow-Filter-400-GPH/dp/B004GX47TW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475069578&sr=8-1&keywords=75+gallon+filter
https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Emperor-Bio-wheel-Power-Filter/dp/B000HHOI8G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1475069578&sr=8-3&keywords=75+gallon+filter
This is my favourite HOB filter. I have one in my 27g tank. I've had pretty much every kind of HOB filter and this is the best IMO. There is lots of room for to shove extra filter media in there. It also has this sort of "bridge" thing as it's pouring into the water so it makes it a little quieter.
You could do a dwarf puffer tank for a 20g. You could have 3 or 4. They are really small and full of personality. But you wouldn't be able to have any other fish/inverts in there. They are meat eaters and will try to eat anything they can.
I would probably do a community tank. That way you can have a range of fish. You could get a group of cories going (they like to be kept in groups, 6 is good) and get some tetras (again, groups 6+. My fav are cardinal tetras), guppies (careful to only get males unless you want babies every month), rasboras are really pretty too.
I'm thinking loaches (at least the ones I know of, there could be small ones) will be too large for a 20g tank.
Shrimp are great too. Just obviously make sure you don't have fish in there that will eat them. I think all of the fish I mentioned will leave them alone.
I am always a fan of a planted tank. There are many easy plants that you can get. This site has tons of plants and tells you a little about them, you can even search by easy, low-light plants.
As far as the hood, personally I don't care for hoods. I think it's a little bit of a dated look. I like the flat glass tops like these and they are also very easy to take off when doing maintenance. But that is your own personally opinion of what you want to have up there.
As far as maintenance is concerned, I do weekly water changes. One week I'll just change out some water (usually 25-30%). Next week I'll do some gravel vacuuming. 3rd week I'll finish the gravel vac. It's not a good idea to clean all of the gravel at once, there is a lot of beneficial bacteria in the gravel and if you clean it all at once you risk sending your tank into a mini cycle as the bacteria replenishes itself.
One last thing. With filters, I never keep the carbon cartridge in the filter. I have clean water up here so there is no need for it. I always keep one on hand just in case (they are great for taking medications out of your tank, but I never use medications; there's usually a better, natural way to fix diseases). The instruction box will tell you to change it out every month. This is a huge waste of money and every time you throw out that much filter media you will most likely send your tank into a mini cycle. What I do in all of my tanks (I have 4) is take the carbon out and jam the filters full of filter floss. It comes in big rolls that costs a couple dollars, and will last you forever. Once it's in there you don't ever need to take it out, until it is literally falling apart. If you find that water isn't really getting through because it's too gunky, take it out and rinse it in either tank water that you have taken out during cleaning, or in treated new water (prime is the best dechlorinator). Don't rinse it in regular untreated water or you will kill all of the good bacteria.
Hopefully all of this is helpful. I have a tendency to go a little over board and give way too much info. But it's good to know lots of info :) Good luck!
I have two filters in my 65 gallon tank, fully stocked (according to aqadvisor)
What is the best filter media to place in these two filters? Is the stuff that came prepackaged with these filters sufficient for my tank's eventual full bioload from approx. 24 total comprised of mollies, swordtails, platys, and corys? Can I shove additional media into the back of the HOB, and if so, what should/can it be?
Thanks for any input.
(The tank was a present from my girlfriend, totally unexpected, and I started buying stuff without doing any research. I originally thought the 75g rating was excessive for my needs, but I wanted to err on the side of overfiltration... I bought the internal filter a few days ago to bridge the gap)