Reddit reviews ARCTIC Alpine 64 Plus - 90 Watts Low Noise CPU Cooler for AMD AM4 Sockets with Patented Fan Holder - Patented Anti-Vibration System

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BVCBOE/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MG60ZKI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4Q5ACT/

Go LED but a little bit more current.

Sure!
Dein Username prüft übrigens aus.


The Light Units


The Chips x4: 98.6$

The Driver x1: 74.9$

CPU Cooler
x4: 55.96$

Thermal Adhesive Paste x1: 7.9$

4way pin for the coolers x1: 9$

Lights Total: 246.36$

Framing and stuff
Most guys build their framing out of aluminium profiles. I bought mine here from the %%% section: https://www.alu-verkauf.de/ALUMINIUM-ALUMINIUMPROFILE

Every country has its own manufacturers for these. Mine cost about 30$.

You also need cables. The veros are pretty flimsy. so take pretinned gauge x1: 9,95$

In order to screw the frame you might wanna cut holes swith a thread. This will do x1: 8.43$

Be careful these drills suck and break easily.

Screws x1: 12.98$

Wago Connectors
x1: 6.35;$

Were at about 315$.

Lets see what we can do with it.

1. Glue the COBs to the CPU cooler.
   
2. Drill the holes into the frame. You should plan that very carefully. Where to hang the frame, where you place the COBs...
   
3. Assemble and screw the frame. It should be a nice and tight framing.
   my frame is build with 6 L-Profiles in which the COBs just lay around and one center piece: Link to Pic
   
4. screw on the driver and check the cable lengths.
   
5. measure your needed cable lengths.
   
6. cut the cables, strip them and connect them to the veros. Watch this video, if you need any help. I wired mine in row, because i chose this particular driver.
   
7. Connect the driver output to a Wallplug using three of the wagos. PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH THE CONNECTIONS!. I had one of these lying around. Everyone should have a cold device cable lying around somewhere.....
   
8. Connect the COBs to the driver. Please refrain from plugging in the driver while doing this :)
   
9. for testing, place the COBs in your direction on the floor and plug in the driver. U might need sunglasses, im not joking, its bright as hell. literal hell.
   
10. Connect the CPU coolers 4way y-cable to a sufficient power supply. Any Smartphone loader should do the trick. You need a few more wagos here.
    
11. In my case, i just placed the COBs losely on the frame, and connected the cooling units.
    
12. Plug in wall and grow weed.
    
    You might additional hangers, cold device cables and another power source for the cooling fans. If you decide to buy the MeanWell HLG-320H-2100B you will need to connect a 10kOhm potentiometer to the Driver. This is to dim the light and safe money in vegphase. The HLG-320H-2100A has a build in dimmer which you can access via a screwdriver. I would recommend A, since its easier to operate. You can also regulate the fans of the cooler via a 150Ohm poti. If you dont like the sound, you can run them at 1/3 to 1/2 speed.
    
    have fun!

If you are trying to save money running with 9 cobs is going to end up costing
more immediately. Not sure how you plan on cooling those leds, but as I'm sure
you're aware, you will need some heatsinks to manage the temps. You are
looking at either 9 individual heatsinks or multiple large heatsinks, either of
which will set you back a significant portion of your budget.

Also, considering your budget you aren't giving yourself much bang for your buck
with those older cree led's. The efficiency (lm/W) of the cobs you linked is not very good. I would look into getting some vero 18 or 29 series
(generation 7, their latest generation of chip). They are relatively cheap,
highly efficient, and there are many pre-drilled cheap heatsink options.

Here is something I personally would build if I had your budget and focus:

COB: Vero 29 Gen 7. BXRC-30E10K0-C-73 (x2)
Vero 29 Gen 7. BXRC-40E10K0-C-73 (x1)
=95$ Using these 3 chips would net a lumen increase of ~10,000 vs the 9 cob cree setup, while costing a similar amount.

Driver: Meanwell HLG-320H-C1400A Power all 3 off. Built in potentiometer, further saving $.
=95$

Heatsinks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BVCBOE/ x 3 = $37

Heatsink Fan PSU: https://www.amazon.com/RGBZONE-Power-Supply-Adapter-Connector/dp/B00ZU9MZ1S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1485197598&sr=8-6&keywords=ac-dc+12v = $8 for powering fans if you’re looking for going the lazy route. There are many other options..

Pick up some wago lever-nuts for connections, 5 splice and 2 splice. Chose to house/frame the whole setup (I’d go with some aluminum angle from a hardware supply store) and there you have it.

Now you've got a 3 cob setup running at roughly the same wattage as your 9 cree setup, while outputting around 10,000 more lumens costing you about 250 before you frame it.

While you can gain more efficiency by adding more chips and operating them at a lower wattage, you also drive up the initial cost. When it comes to building LED fixtures, the more cobs you use the more additional expenses you incur. Cooling, wiring, width/length increase of housing, additional components, all of those little things add up surprisingly fast.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BVCBOE/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is better than stock(larger heat sink and fan), mounts easily on AMD boards, & and very in-expensive.

Up from that is Cryorig, be quiet!, & Noctua.

> Can you should me a strip comparable.

Sure. Samsung F-Series is probably the best cost/PAR value for strips right now. You'd want to run these 23v strips at around nominal (1.12A, or a C1050A/B driver). They need to be mounted to something, but don't need a fin or pin heatsink. Just a 1" wide piece of aluminum bar. So build will be lighter, and cheaper. But a bit more assembly work.

Here's a link to a build of mine from last year, using the older Gen 1 Bridgelux EB Series strips. Same dimensions as the F-Series. And I actually have an F-Series with the same frame. Works great. six in your setup would give you nice spread, and put out more light with ~3500w (wallplate) than you'd get with 5000w of the Veros. The strips get pretty cheap when you start looking at larger builds.

EDIT:

I admit to not knowing a lot about active sinks--relying on PC fans not to break scares me--the Active Arctic I see only cool to 90w, and that's the pricier models. But maybe this is just something I don't understand, and you have well planned out. Worth mentioning.

I would upgrade to WD red for at least one drive for $20-30.


As far as AMD, they're great. I know they get a lot of hate for perceived value, but they're reliable and I love them.

Edit: In this case: Athlons run HOT! Get a FM2+ socket A-Series CPU.


Also you will need two usb drives. Get a nub style one for the actual OS. (Personal experience tip)


Personal tip two: Make sure any extra fans you get are the fractal 'Silent Series' . Again experience. they're mind blowingly quiet. Also this guy is super quiet too, and I recommend it!


Good Luck, the hardware is the easy part, for freeNAS 's true potential its a learning curve, but well worth it!

I found this to be the perfect heat sink...

Can disperse up to 100W with the fan... has a FLAT base so you can fit the cobs nicely ;)

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B007BVCBOE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That makes sense about the larger fans being quieter actually.
I checked the temps and when running World of Warcraft the CPU got maxed at 80.4 C, so something is definitely off, that's crazy hot right? I think I'm going to pick up this, and get my case fan hooked up. I struggled with getting the stock cooler locked down actually so I may have messed something up. Thank you so much for pointing me in this direction. If you hadn't, I may have just went on blaming my poor innocent graphics card and melted something.

Heres what my build list ended up being:




Part | Specs | Cost
---|---|----
Bridgelux Vero 29 BXRC-40E10K0-L-23 COB LED | 4000K 10000LM 80CRI, ~145lm/W @2.1A | 21.45
Mean Well LPF-90D-42 Constant Current Power Supply / Driver | 42V 2.15A 90.3W, Dimmable | 45.60
ARCTIC Alpine 64 Plus CPU Cooler Heat Sink | 12V 0.25A | 12.26

Other things I will need to find/get or use during this build, if I already have them they will cost $0:

• 12V power supply for CPU cooler ($0 - 6.00)
  
• Self tapping M3 sized screws for mounting the LED to the heatsink ($0 - 2.00)
  
• Thermal paste for led/heatsink ($0 - 6.00)
  
• Drill and bits for drilling hole in heatsink
  
• Outlet plug connector / sacrificial extension cord for the driver to outlet connection ($0 - 3.00)
  
• I will be soldering all the electrical connections, but there are multitudes of options for connecting wires without soldering ($0 - 3.00)
  
  Total Cost: $79.31 for 10000 lumens.
  
  Upgrade Options: If I wanted to spent $10 more I could have gotten a 120W driver and increased lumens by a lot but that would be overkill for my purposes of growing culinary herbs like basil, parsley, etc.

He'd told me it was fine, but a quick check shows it's definitely overheating at around 75 C. Why would it be doing that? It has a decent cooler, and I didn't forget the thermal paste.

amazon.com/ARCTIC-Alpine-Plus-CPU-Cooler/dp/B007BVCBOE?ie=UTF8&tag=