Reddit reviews Arctic Silver 7g Premium Silver Thermal Cooling Adhesive Set (ASTA-7G)

Use a 2 part thermal adhesive/epoxy. A tiny bit goes a long ways.

https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Premium-Adhesive-ASTA-7G/dp/B0087X7262

edit- here is a lower cost 2 pack version

as far as tapes go that 3m is pretty good most heatsinks come with, or you can buy it by itself, but you can get thermal adhesive if you want to be more super serious about it. just be very very careful as its basically conductive glue and not great for dripping onto a board. if you think you are using too little, you are not. I find this to be more stressful than using liquid metal on a cpu because of this, that you can at least get back off a mobo easy enough.

Get this and this and you should be all set.

>Fujitsu lifebook lh532

so between looking at the hinge's images online and this image the hinge itself appears to be in tact... meaning the Chassis needs to be replaced.

​

You may be able to also try another method, and that is to remove the top cover of your laptop and try to Epoxy the hing back down into/onto the broken mounting points of the Chassis.

​

I would make a recommendation of Arctic Silver's Thermal Adhesive. It's a strong bond and it will not melt when exposed to high heat. I've used it to glue a heatsink stand-off back onto a laptop, and it's held for years.


You can find it Here

Sry for delay:

You can start with using a CPU cooler (eg https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Alpine-11-performance-pre-applied/dp/B0039P998M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523958599&sr=8-4&keywords=CPU+heatsink) and glue the COB to it with a thermal adhesive (we recommend artic silver eg https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Premium-Adhesive-ASTA-7G/dp/B0087X7262/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1523958698&sr=1-4&keywords=arctic+silver+adhesive). Then wire a led driver (we used a LMD600, a little overpower but easy to find) and provide the heatsink fan with 12V.

Thing is the alimentation is really expensive, and we ended up creating our own drivers: https://www.instagram.com/p/BdzZ-7MDPLb/ (but this is for the 3x cxa1512 of our 36w or 72w setup, much better spectrum) check my previous posts for more infos

Use 10x10mm heat sinks for the rear two voltage regulator transistors. I used 15x15mm copper heatsink shims to create the custom heat sinks for the 4 small transistors around each single opamp. These were the shims I used, 1mm seems a good thickness, but slightly less like a 0.8mm would be fine as well:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5SMY0W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They were bonded to the transistors using this thermal epoxy (which also was added to the cut and bent corner intersections for better conductivity/efficiency of heat away from the transistors):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087X7262/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Picture of the adhered custom heatsinks before I added the epoxy to the gap intersection:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-6NjDqDM/1/94baa3bf/O/i-6NjDqDM.jpg

Have Classic duals and Vivid singles, which is what I settled on after having full set of both. Difference is not night and day, but is noticeable side by side over stock. Some headphones are slightly preferred on stock (mainly the planarss) while others are more preferred with the Bursons (modded HD58X and TH-X00s). The Porta Pro's can swing either way.

Stock opamps are not as clean or resolving sounding, little less separation and not as tight sound as the Bursons. There are other opamps besides Burson which are much cheaper. Head-fi Gustard H10 thread has some impressions of different opamps in it. The Bursons are an improvement in fidelity, but basically almost double the price of the H10...

Also don't be weirded out by the slightly bipolar nature of the H10's sound until it seemingly settles down (if it is apparent). It seems H10 will initially sound good, then get worse, then come back and sound better, maybe fluctuate a bit after that, and finally just keep getting better. Very much seems to be everyones experience with it within the frst few hundred hours of use.

Please understand, this is not a functional cell phone. We'll it is functional but I only use it with Wi-Fi for the Gear VR. NO cellular service.
I am heavy into Drones with live video streaming. One of my onboard transmitters was getting very hot. So I wrapped the transmitter with heat sinks. Problem solved.
So I figured why not try the same thing with the S7.

Searched for a few days, but found the solution on Amazon.
You will need to purchase 2 items.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087X7262/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HSBM72W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tools Needed: A good fine tooth saw, fine grit file and some patients to get it perfect.
Here are some pics of my solution. Never have had another overheating problem.
First the thermal Adhesive.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO7ylMqoYMps11_FQe7XRYHrinI4BM6-oocTgG2

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOm9_y9QfiBbBkzt1sARG-pYr6nwObAlpGk1jIR

The heat sinks com in 2"x2" and will need to be cut for maximum surface contact.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPTvTYqJGNk6HShnMb0Doaiqak4De9Hlvepo1ad

I cut mine like this.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNkCei4wzTMn8flEOqFm5jeCLnYIJMI90nceWob

Then mix adhesive and apply to sinks. put in place quickly, then placed a few pounds of weight on them until the epoxy dried.

Final product.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMC3sNp3mbgkeJat7pTpea17MVXmPpQ3KggDAgv

Please comment, or give me some feed back. I would be happy to share more information.

I'm only speaking from years of service experience, given heat and time almost all thermal compounds will eventually harden up just like this. I've also used thermal epoxy in the past: https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Premium-Adhesive-ASTA-7G/dp/B0087X7262 for other purposes, but only an idiot would use permanent epoxy on a CPU.