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It's not too terribly difficult, honestly. I enjoy it. There's a bunch of ways, but here's some tips that I have figured out.

• Label your cable ends (either use a label maker or just get one of these booklets).
  
• Two people make it go more than twice as fast. Buy pizza for a friend.
  
• Leave the cable box at the source, pull cable to the destination.
  
• Get a set of fish sticks for sending wire down/up walls. Buy a couple of rolls of electrical tape, too, for taping wire to the fish sticks.
  
• Measure to the same height as the electrical outlets in the wall for a clean look. Get the same color faceplates and keystone jacks as the electrical system already has.
  
• Make sure you use a stud finder with AC electrical alerting before you cut.
  
• When you are ready to cut a hole in the wall, take a wall box eliminator, flip it backwards, and trace the inside with pencil. Then cut with a utility knife. I find that a dremel saves time but creates a LOT of dust, and really isn't that much easier.
  
• Pull the cable (or fish stick) through until you've got a good 2-3 feet sticking out of the wall. If you think you're EVER going to need more than one jack in this room, run it now (it is easier to buy two boxes of cable than one, and run two cables simultaneously).
  
• Put the wall box eliminator in the wall, and fold the tines back / screw the holders in (they all basically have some mechanism of "grabbing" the wall, to give you a hole in the wall with the two faceplate screw holes like an electrical wall box has, but without the box - which is safe because it's low voltage (don't do this for real electrical work!!!))
  
• Cut off the first 6 inches or so of the cable with your dikes, because it might have been fucked up being taped to a fish stick and rammed through the wall, etc.
  
• Strip off the outer jacket of another 4-5 inches using your cyclops stripping tool.
  
• Terminate into the rj45 keystone jack using a punchdown tool.
  
• Even though, technically, as long as the jacks have the same wiring pattern on both ends, in America, we use EIA/TIA 568-B as our wiring standard. This will be displayed on the side of your RJ45 jack.
  
• In your wiring closet, leave a loop of 6 feet or so (for future upgrades/troubleshooting), and then terminate all the cable ends into a labeled patch panel.
  
• Pop your RJ45 jack into the keystone hole in the faceplate. (tab down, you don't want dust to settle into the wire contacts), and screw in your faceplate. Label it, if you can do so and it looks nice ("Living Room 1", etc) so it corresponds to the patch panel in the basement/closet/etc.
  
  Congrats, you've run a cable! It's female at both ends, so you can just use a patch cable to run from the wall to your PC, and from the patch panel to your switch, to your modem/router, etc. This wire is now a part of the infrastructure of your house - you won't have to cut anything out when you leave, you just unplug the wires and leave the infrastructure for the next person.
  
  Hope this helps.

A VM could absolutely work with a pass+through and the card /u/grimman listed (or SHOULD in theory). We have a similar setup for RFD (remote firing device - those are newer ones just a reference) where the software only runs on XP and will not ever run on anything newer (I tried way to much to get it working so I know it won't lol).

Has to have a cable just like the one linked above (this one incase the above is removed for any reason :P) and it works just fine.

Software installed fine on the VM, the VM found the adapter card after just plugging it in, boom RFD worked wonderfully on a win10 laptop running the VM now. No more lugging around the old winXP brick of a machine!

EDIT - OP comment: You may need a different adapter then what was mentioned however setting it up on a VM "should" work just fine; it is worth atleast trying :) plus it means you can have a backup ready to go at a moments notice! Just take a snapshot of the VM once you are done getting it working perfectly and problem solved :)....or backup the VM itself and save it to a network drive to be actually backed up....or both the snapshot and VM backup. I recommend both!

I've heard a lot of people in /r/arduino and similar speak highly of moderately-priced soldering stations like this Weller one. While I love my JBC, on price alone I can't entirely recommend it.

What I've always found is best are skinny (and preferably interchangeable) tips with a decently powerful element behind them, giving a good mix of precision and power. You should definitely buy a "station" style soldering iron rather than the cheaper kind where the mains cable goes straight into the iron, the lighter-weight cable between the base and iron makes the whole process so much easier.

My advice for learning would be to start with an everything-included kit that produces some kind of usable item at the end. This was the first Google result for "through hole soldering 101 kit", which appears to be some kind of "Simon" game. Coincidentally, one of the first things I remember making with my own soldering iron. You can move onto surface-mount, assuming you don't get the bug and decide to go straight to reflow soldering once you've figured out which is the hot end of the iron, buying a reasonable iron rather than a bargain-basement one so you get a sufficiently precise tool will enable your first purchase to carry on working for you longer.

My only other piece of advice would be to avoid lead-free solder like the plague until you've figured out the ins and outs of the process. It's almost universally terrible stuff to hand solder with at first and takes a lot of getting used to. Just stick with the easy to use leaded solder and avoid breathing too much of it until you've got the process down.

This was from ~5 months ago. This was from about ~6-7 months ago.

 

When you clean a lot, the cleaning becomes easier. I wrote a whole thing about it here. But to add to this, every month or two, I use the brush attachment I was talking about. I take all my components (except my CPU and case fans) out and I use the brush+air to get inside the PCI slots and ram slots and around all the heat sinks. Like I said, cleaning more often makes the cleaning process in general easier.

 

This isn't the one I bought, but it has really good reviews on Amazon, and I have seen a couple guys over at PCMR recommending it.

Good god just buy a GPU support lol
https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Holder-Gaming-Bitcoin/dp/B01DQK7DDW

I haven't seen anyone do this in years. It was somewhat common about 10 years ago when good headphones were becoming popular, but external DACs and headphone amplifiers didn't really exist. I mean, yeah, headphone amps have been around since at least the 60's, but they were always expensive audiophile or recording studio products. So for PC audio you either modified your sound card or built a CMoy amp, because the cheapest actual headphone amp was $1000.

Also, a good DAC is about $20, not $120. A good headphone amp is around $100 though so it would be $120 for both, but most headphones do not need an amp.

I spent $60 on this "DataVac" blower for our help desk, and we LOVE it. You could blow leaves off your deck with this thing. basically a 3/4 hp motor on a handle. http://amzn.com/B001J4ZOAW

We use these in our shop. Work perfect for cleaning out PC components and saved tons vs compressed air cans.

LOL @ $42 being pricy...

I have a Weller soldering station that is a little more expensive than that. Of course, I use it on a regular basis, for sometimes hours at a time, so it's worth spending the money for good tools.

As long as it doesn't have a screen on it, a can of this will work quite well, it's like keyboard air but better because it's also a solvent (but doesn't dissolve plastic like Brakleen). Don't use it near backlit screens though, it dissolves the glue holding them together and you'll never quite get it looking right again.

There is absolutely an easy fix. Two of these, mounted parallel to each other (like this = ) above the switch. Then 1-ft patch cables to the switch.

I'd also recommend turning the switch around so the patch cables are facing the doorway and not jammed into the little nook between the switch and the phone equipment. It has a right angle power cord so you could even move it in more towards the phone system.

I like the Datavac Duster. Use it at work a lot. Works good.

Yeah....You should've just patched the cables to length and given us a before/after. That's easy peasy. You can get 100 ends for like $5. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M5BIII/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_hTDltb0T2T4HT

https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Holder-custom-Gaming/dp/B01DQK7DDW

GPU Brace. Best $20 I've ever spent.

if i had to choose one mouse for use in hand to hand combat situations, this would be it.

Microsoft Wheel Mouse Optical

https://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500P-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001U899HQ

Had one at my last job and loved it.

> Can't move to a VM because it uses proprietary PCI interface cards, which also don't have updated drivers.

Pass-through + https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-Adapter-Card-PEX1PCI1/dp/B0024CV3SA

Perhaps that could work? In any case, you'd still have to run the old OS version, but at least you would have slightly easier access to newer hardware (not counting the PCI card, obviously).

I have about 400 velcro zip ties in my bag that I use instead of normal zip ties. The guy after always appreciates it.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6

This is normally what I use to clean them, outside of course!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001J4ZOAW

Logitech makes a washable keyboard, I use one because I'm terrible and keep eating at my desk. You can submerge it in warm water and wash it down with a soft brush or a cloth. It includes a little brush clipped on the back to get under the keys. It isn't the nicest experience to type on but it's way better than one of those silicone keyboards. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Washable-Wired-Keyboard-K310/dp/B008D1JRIO

You can bundle them up with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485542407&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=velcro&psc=1

Aside from that you can put them into a bin or box whatever you want.

I have a Support Brace for my ROG 1080.

https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Holder-custom-Gaming/dp/B01DQK7DDW

It's not as likely as you would be lead to believe, but I would not recommend leaving it powered on while you're away for an extended period of time. (Make a sandwich? Sure. Go to work for the day? Maybe not.)

Cheap Part
Better Design

Meanwhile, I'm using one of these sketchy SATA-to-SATA things since I need a short splitter to power two SSDs. I really should fix that.

1. Buy this
   
   
2. Protect your eyes and lungs
   
   
3. Go to town

Electronics cleaner. It's like a less abrasive brake-clean that's still a solvent and meant for use on electronics.

lil pricey, but worth it:
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409800808&sr=8-1&keywords=metro+vacuum

I remember i had the same off-white microsoft optical mouse for years until the right click started to not work

Microsoft Wheel Mouse Optical https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006B7HB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_O8JhDbP3JDQQ3

Well I guess it wasn't off-white when it was new...

Well I was referring to one of these. Besides if you could plug OP's "finder" into the socket for a stove/drier you have other issues. Those should be using a 3 or 4-prong 240V outlet (in the USA anyhow).

I do it every 3 to 6 months typically. Bought a data vac and never looked back at canned air again. It's basically a reverse vacuum, gets in nooks and crannies that canned air could only dream of.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J4ZOAW/

I'm a big fan of [this...]
(http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=pd_sim_60_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Cp8R4LZ9L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1ZFDRCAFYA8014DSD9PR)
Haven't tried the one you listed, but this is super portable and has a decently long cord. Doesn't have a vacuum feature though.

Here is the mobile version of your link

http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=n%3A3012916011

If you have a lot of computers that need cleaning you can go for an electric blower.
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1348478478&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=Metro+Vacuum+ED500+DataVac+500-Watt+0.75-HP+Electric+Duster+120-Volt

Sometimes if we're in a bind and can't run a whole new line, we use these. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001L1IXAG

edit: non-mobile link: http://amzn.com/B001L1IXAG

I use a similar one by the same company I think. I'll never go back to compressed air. http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW

I use one of these: Circuit Breaker Finder

The transmitter plugs into the outlet and transmits a radio signal through the wire. At the panel, the receiver is passed closely over each breaker. The receiver beeps when the correct breaker is located.

The other method is to plug in a lamp that you can see from the panel or a radio that you can hear, then turn off each breaker one at a time until the correct breaker is located.

What you're looking for is [one of these] (http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-ET300-Digital-Circuit/dp/B003LHJSY8)

The MetroVac is as loud as a vaccum

get yourself a datavac if cleaning PCs is part of your job. canned air is too expensive for how much you get.

For the future

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Washable-Keyboard-K310-Windows/dp/B008D1JRIO

You should get an electric duster
https://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467991428&sr=8-2&keywords=metro+blower

I have not had to buy caned air for years.

Not really.

http://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0

TIL there is adhesive thermal paste

http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Alumina-Thermal-Adhesive-5g/dp/B0009IQ1BU

Amazon link.

http://www.amazon.ca/Xbox-360-Wireless-Gaming-Receiver/dp/B000HZFCT2 This.

Worth every penny.

Even if this was setup by Comcast, I would have gone in there and did some cable maintenance.
Masking tape, crimped/cut cables, zip ties, all needs to be pulled out and properly tied up with some velcro straps. w

For future situations you could keep a set of 'left handed' drill bits, these bits cut by spinning counterclockwise, giving the screw a chance to come loose. But really you should have a screw extractor, ones this small are hard to come by (#0 or #00) but they do exist:

http://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/

Man maybe you should work at geek squad because then you'd know they aren't banana plugs

Are you saying they vacuumed it? Or just stuck the unplugged vacuum in the PC hoping it would do some sort of voodoo magic? Do you have a special tool too use as an alternative (computer duster or otherwise) that she should have used? You're very vague!

Pretty low probability that vacuuming a PC would cause anything to go bad. There is the low probability that it would cause static build up and zap something. Just in case I use one of these, but if a vacuum is all you have...

That's way cheaper than here. It's 33,90 eur (US$37) in Germany and 40 eur (US$43,50) in The Netherlands :(

Here. Get a hundred for under 9 cents each. I've never had an issue with them damaging anything.

You can also get them in other colors. I think my colored ones came from Monoprice.

A suggestion, because I have a messy teenager and an even messier 6 year old:

This is the greatest $30 I have ever spent. I just hose it down once a week or so, and no more nasty keyboard. It's had spaghetti o's, mustard, and soda dumped all over it, it just keeps coming back for more.

Non-mobile link

I have always wondered why when you go on a normal (non-mobile) site with your phone it will always send you to their mobile version, but the other way around you are stuck with the mobile version. It's something that brings out a surprisingly large amount of anger out of me.