Reddit reviews Devcon 22045 Plastic Welder - 25 ml Dev-Tube

Devcon!! or another plastic bonder that contains MMA
https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-22045-Plastic-Welder-Dev-Tube/dp/B003NUGL9S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484501696&sr=8-1&keywords=devcon+plastic+welder

Sorry for the potato quality.

Made of kydex. Used barrel nuts, screws and plastic weld for the adjustable part. Neoprene liner to protect the stock.

First attempt. Pretty sloppy with some of the cuts for the Velcro straps, will probably use a plunge cutter on the router next time.

Edit: How to and parts.

Here's an album of it disassembled: http://imgur.com/a/Hx72f

Threw this together quick, so sorry if its not exact, but it should give you an idea.

The parts aren't exact, go to lowes or home depot and play around with what fits best for your application and make sure all the screws screw what you want...

The Hillman Group 1/4-in Zinc-Plated Standard (SAE) Brad Hole Tee Nut - http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=137342-37672-880539&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3012548&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

The Hillman Group 20-Count #10-24 x 3/8-in Button-Head Plain Steel Allen-Drive Socket Cap Screw - http://www.lowes.com/pd_426315-37672-43560_1z0vrds+1z0yjl3+1z0yjot__?productId=4212340&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1%26page%3D1&facetInfo=0.375|#10

The Hillman Group 4-Count #10 x 3/8-in Nylon Standard (SAE) Flat Washer - http://www.lowes.com/pd_139065-37672-881544_0__?productId=3013084&Ntt=nylon+washers&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dnylon%2Bwashers&facetInfo=

Devcon 22045 Plastic Welder - 25 ml Dev-Tube - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NUGL9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

KYDEX V Sheet - 0.080" Thick, Black, 12" x 12" Nominal, 8PACK - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AEKJVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sponge Neoprene 1/16" Thick X 54" Wide X 1' - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009K7M1TW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Others things:
Velcro

I found a caliper to be useful ( I have a cheap harbor freight one, doesn’t need to be anything special)

Straight edge

Exacto Knife

Old mouse pad

3m Formula 77

Super Glue

painters tape


Here we go…
First I made a template using some thick card stock paper. I used an old file folder. Cut out the desired shape that will be the bottom layer. Make another template for the riser (this is where the caliper, straight edge, and exacto came in handy).

Cut out the shapes on your kydex. I used a table saw, for quick accurate cuts, however, I’ve heard people use a razor to score and snap the kydex ( I didn’t have much luck with this, I think the .08 kydex is too thick to do this cleanly).
Mark where you would like the tee-bolts and velcro straps to go on the bottom layer. I put the tee bolts slightly above center. Drill your holes using a bit as close to the thickness of the tee-bolt post as you can get, this helps prevent wobbles. Match the post holes on the second sheet of kydex, then measuring half an inch (doesn’t have to be half an inch, could be closer or farther depending on what you’d like) from center add as many additional holes as you desire. Make any drills and cuts before you mold, it will make life easier. Also draw center lines for points of reference.

I wrapped the stock in the neoprene to account for the added thickness during molding. (I eventually glue the neoprene to the inside of the mold to help protect the stock.

Heat the kydex and shape around neoprene covered stock. (Note, mark center points on the kydex and neoprene to easily align).

Tape the freshly molded kydex to the stock. You’ll mold on top of this soon and don’t want it shifting.
Wrap the old mouse pad on the base mold and secure with tape. The second mold will need to be a little wider so it rests on the posts nicely.

Heat the second layer of kydex and mold on top of the mouse pad. Again, pay attention to the center.

After they’ve cooled completely, remove them.

Apply the plastic weld to the tee-posts. Insert the tee-bolts in to the base layer so they are sticking outwards. I like the brad holes, as the plastic weld gets pushed out, they help secure them to the kydex when torque is applied. Wipe away any excess.

After the plastic weld has set, spray the inside of the mold with the formula 77 and insert the neoprene. The neoprene helps protect the stock from the metal tee bolts. This is optional, I did it to protect the stock. This can be tricky, use more neoprene then you’ll need and cut out the excess, that way you get good coverage.

Grab the nylon washers and put them on the tee bolt posts, I super glued these to the kydex to make life easier. You want the washer to be slightly thicker then the posts are high, this way the second piece of kydex is setting on the nylon washer and not the metal posts. Depending on which washers you have, you may want to stack a few on top of each other and glue them.

After every thing has set, attach the second mold of kydex and use the screws to attach to the posts. Adjust height as needed.

Edit two...
Also my cuts for the velcro are very sloppy, I should have used a router or my rotary tool, I may be retarded.

Yeah dude, just straighten them up and use some epoxy as Dogmai781 said, or better yet, some plastic welding methyl methacrylate such as this guy, my personal favorite.

https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-22045-Plastic-Welder-Dev-Tube/dp/B003NUGL9S?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5

Devcon Plastic Welder.

It's strong stuff, but I don't think it's this strong.

I recently had a similar problem with my 2013 corolla bumper. I used this Devcon plastic weld off amazon that I had bought from a previous LPT. I mixed up some of that, spread in inside the crack on both surfaces, pressed together. Then spread some more on both front and back of the crack. The next day, I put duct tape on the inside to provide a little more structure to the bumper. So far (about 1 month) its held up fine. The plastic weld says its sandable/paintable so if you wanted to then sand and paint it up to match you should be able to.

I did take the bumper cover off to do this, which is pretty simple.
http://imgur.com/a/ddezy

Devcon Plastic Welder

info

hardware store/retail example packaging

...And other similar products (methacrylate plastic welding adhesives) like Loctite Plastic Bonder and Permatex Plastic Weld.

They are FAR more suited to doing anything with ABS and PVC than any epoxy, since:

1. they actually do WELD, since the methyl methacrylate monomer in the uncured resin is a solvent for many plastics; thus preparation is unimportant and bond integrity is inherently way better than any epoxy can possibly match
   
   
2. unlike hardware store epoxies, they are tough and impact resistant when cured, and match the mechanical properties of ABS and PVC well, for a seamless and low-stress bond
   
   The stuff is one of my most indispensable tools as a modder.

I don't know about other people, but I always love looking at pictures! I need to actually see something to visualize it. All the words in the world won't help me. That being said, what exactly is this project for? Can you slide a slightly smaller tube inside the two pieces to give more surface area? Where exactly is the bond failing? Some types of plastics (specifically Polyethylene and Polypropylene) may not bond too well at all.

Let the JB weld cure for a full 24 hours before touching it. When it comes to plastics, I've had good luck with Devcon's Plastic Welder, but again, it does not work on ALL plastics, and it may cure slightly yellow, although this says clear.

Any adhesive using methyl methacrylate (MMA) will work.

Devcon Plastic Welder Link

Loctite Plastic Bonder. It MUST SAY "Plastic Bonder" This stuff. Another link The loctite plastic epoxy without the word bonder on it doesn't work on the same materials. It inconveniently comes in the same color packaging.

I'm pretty sure there are others available but I don't know their names. If you look at the packaging and it says methyl methacrylate you should be good to go.

/u/Raviable