Reddit reviews eBoot 6 Pieces Detail Paint Brush Set Miniature Brushes for Watercolor and Acrylic Painting (Wine Red)
We found 2 Reddit comments about eBoot 6 Pieces Detail Paint Brush Set Miniature Brushes for Watercolor and Acrylic Painting (Wine Red). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Material: the brushes are made of soft nylon hair with good quality, and they are kept in place firmly without sheddingApplication: the detain paint brush set is a good accessory for painting, suitable for miniatures, army figures, war gaming, detailed acrylic painting, watercolor, and art paintingPackage: comes with 6 detail brushes in size 000, 00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 1 piece of brush each size, enough to meet your different needsDelicate design: the miniature brushes feature wooden handles in retro color with proper size, which is convenient for you to holdUseful tools: the detail brushes are well organized and easy to grab or carry, they allow you to paint botanic, doll, model ships, airplanes and characters
This is a good faith c&c, but it’s going to be long, so bare with me. I am only a moderately talented painter, but even I recognize some real issues here.
***
The execution on this looks pretty bad.
Biggest single issue is the thick paint. This paint looks like totally unthinned GW paint, which is gloop out of the pot. You need to work in much thinner layers.
I personally recommend a bottle of Vallejo thinning medium. It mixes in better than water and the cap design is controllable. If you can’t get that try to at least use distilled water that is clean and in a separate pot than your brush water.
This dude needs to get a nice even spray prime, I recommend white or gray. (Money tip: Krylon Colormaster Primer sold at Walmart works fine and is only $5. Make sure you get the primer, not the prime&paint 2-in-1 can) Then layer on the main colors in ~2 separate thin layers before applying some washes, and then finally some highlights.
For the armor, uniform, and skin I would pick out a base color, a wash, and a highlight color. For each section paint your base in 2 thinned coats, wash it, reapply a very thinned original base color to the highlighted areas, mix the base color with the highlight color and reapply that to a smaller area to define the most raised bits, finished off with very gentle applications of the highlight color to the very top areas.
For the boots and pouches just paint them brown, highlight with a brown/skin tone mix, then overwash with a brown or fleshwash to merge the tone together. Easy way to get a leather look. Paint the pouches all brown, don’t make random flaps on them the tan of the body armor. You want to communicate that the armor and pouches are different items.
For the green uniform, a green camoshade or a DIY wash made from a dark green will work. Don’t use a blackwash on it or it will look like soot. On your current wash of the legs there is also pooling down below the back of the knees, this is caused by excess wash on the surface as it dries. You want to avoid this by having a brush move the wash back into the recesses or remove it from the model as the wash dries.
Certain areas should be underpainted. All the silver should be painted black if you primed white/gray. Then you can drybrush/lightly apply silver paint and any areas you miss will be black which makes it look like dark metal. Sometimes I’ll leave fairly sizable gaps of black in silver colored items, it really works to create depth. For metal I’d reapply a black/nuln wash over it as well to really make it darker.
The exposed skin should be underpainted white if you primed black. I would not do facepaint on a helmeted head, it doesn’t read. If you want to do tactical facepaint, a helmetless exposes head. Catachan or Anvil heads.
I generally try to paint from the “inside” out. So I do the button layer like the cloth uniform and get it based and washed, then the body armor, then the pouches. I try to minimize the numbers of touch ups needed on the lower layers. This helps me keep models crisp.
For most of this process you should be using large or medium sized brushes. Save your fine brushes only for when you need them. If you need cheap but good larger brushes, these have worked for me really well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ARMLLB2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
I also automatically always recommend getting a small jar of Masters Cleaner & Preserver to keep your brushes in good working order. This will save itself in cost easily by saving your brushes. Clean them with this and with cool or running room temp water throughout sessions, do not uses hot water as it can ruin the glue holding the bristles in place.
Catching up on YouTube’s warhammerTV tutorials will be a great help. Even though your guardsmen use a different color scheme, the general principles will remain the same as the guides.
Going to back up here and talk about moldline cleaning. This is a secondary issue but it has to be done before priming. Get a hobby knife and pull the blade over all the plastic seams to get rid of them. These seams become visible problems especially when you start using washes.
Bought it at Michael's, but here's a similar set on Amazon.