Reddit reviews Exo Terra Sun-Glo Neodymium A19 Lamp, 60-Watt

The dark green is stress coloration, and you should work to get her to a much less stressful environment ASAP. Like Flip said, chameleons are almost entirely tree-dwelling and as such require a lot of vertical movement options. Not having that is stressful to them, but don't worry. It's quite inexpensive to fix that issue. You can build in basically everything you need tomorrow in less than an hour and spending less than 20$. There are also a couple minor issues that I can see, but they're simple to solve.

Your three most vital points to hit (from what I consider most important to least based on what your current situation is), explained below, are:

• Get a vertical, 3 dimensional structure into the middle of the cage ASAP
  
• Get a lot of foliage woven into that structure so that your chameleon has places to hide and leaves to drink from
  
• Get a basking area and a top-to-bottom temperature gradient set up
  
  First thing you need to do is get some lateral structure in the cage. Go to a hardware store tomorrow and get a few small wooden dowels like these and then go nuts with structure. They're cheap, easy to cut to length, and can be secured with florist wire to the screen sides of the enclosure. For an idea on what kind of structure you need, you can check out what I did with my terrarium. A basic structure, especially with flat horizontal or gently sloped perches, will make it much easier for her to feel at ease. She's up high because that's where she feels most comfortable, but she doesn't have anywhere good to sit or sleep. It's really important to have a lot of climbing structure to give the enclosure a bunch of 3rd dimensional area for her to explore and hide in. Use the entire space.
  
  Once you've done that, you can weave in real or fake ivy or some other vine-y non-toxic plant. This kind of thing, for example. This provides much needed cover and a water source. Spray the ivy down and chameleon will lap it up from wherever it happens to be. You can bunch some foliage up in certain places to provide a deeper cover area. Not only will that let you somewhat control where the chameleon will spend much of its time, this will quickly give more security in the environment and will lower stress considerably - giving you the room (after a week or two) to begin attempting gentle socialization.
  
  Misted leaves are where it should be getting her water. Water should typically not be given in a glass. Standing water is not something chameleons run into in the tree tops, and while they can be trained to take water from the glass it is a major source of contagion. Crickets can jump in and drown, the chameleon can defecate in it, and standing water just kinda becomes bacteria soup after a while anyway. Diseases suck, so avoid possible infection vectors. The syringe method works, but can really stress a chameleon out a lot if it's not socialized with you. I'm assuming you're just giving a drop on the nose and letting it run down to its mouth where it will lap it up. Be aware that in doing that you've shoved massive hands into its face and then poured water on it, in essence showing yourself to be a large threat to be feared. Also if it's trying to scare you off by opening its mouth and you drop water in that way there's a possibility it may accidentally inhale the water, which can easily kill it. Having the vertical structure to feel more comfortable and possibly some (real or plastic) vegetation providing cover in that structure will go a long way toward making your chameleon feel secure while also giving it leaves to lick water off of. I think that you should go for fully plastic plants (rather than plastic-coated fabric ones) or real plants.
  
  Without being comfortable in the environment, it'll be reluctant to move from its relative safe spot up at the top there, so it's likely going to ignore the food you have in the pot. Once the chameleon feels secure and starts moving around the cage more, a more shallow feeding dish may also make it easier to spot food when it is offered. That can wait for now, though.
  
  Lighting aside, giving a lot more vertical space to climb is really important to get done ASAP. A household incandescent may work as a heating lamp in the short term, but having a directed light source is important to get fairly quickly. A reflector dome with a heating lamp is great for targeting a basking area, and will also give a heating gradient from the top to the bottom, allowing the chameleon to sit where it is the most comfortable. Heat bulbs are fairly inexpensive, though in my experience the incandescent bulbs almost never last as long as they should. I prefer halogen lamps, which are slightly more expensive to set up, but are a little more energy efficient and last much longer.
  
  When you plan your basking area, be very wary of the general "85-95^o" rule. Your chameleon can burn itself if it's too cold outside the basking spot but too hot inside it. Give it room to get closer or further away as it wants to. Juveniles especially need this because they can't thermoregulate (control their body temperature) very well and are often too "dumb" to get out before they're burned if their basking spot is too hot. I've seen cases where the chameleon will singe its entire belly by hanging upside down from the ceiling under the light because the spot was too cold and that was the next warmest option. Giving plenty of space both horizontally and vertically helps them learn to thermoregulate with much less risk of harm. In the tour of my setup, I show the basking area that I have created for Pasquale, and she uses all 3 dimensions when she's picking a spot to get comfy in. Sometimes she'll be up as high as she can be on the stick (a spot that hits almost 100^o !!!), sometimes she'll be almost entirely out of the spotlight on the downward-sloping stick at the back (about 80^o).
  
  You mentioned that you've ordered your UVB source, so that's good. If you have an exotics vet you plan to visit you can take it there to get the UVB output tested to make sure it outputs enough, if you want. If you don't have access to an exotics vet, if the vet you have available treats birds they should have a UVB meter. I would recommend testing myself, but it's probably not necessary if you don't want to. Like Flip said, placement of the UVB source is important, and I think your idea to open up the top of the cage is a good one! If you replace the solid top with something like window screen (metal or fiberglass), it will be strong enough to support things like lights while keeping the chameleon safe from possible contact burns (using what you used for the sides of the cage, the chameleon can possibly reach through and touch things. Very unlikely to happen, but I would personally take the precaution because I can't be sure.) and still letting the needed light through.
  
  The cage size should be fine for quite a while, though having more room to roam as an adult can't hurt. For now, though, it's very important to build an internal structure for the chameleon to climb on, lots of leafy foliage to hide in and drink off of, and a directed lighting source to provide a temperature gradient and a basking spot.
  
  I know that was a lot of information vomited at you through my fingers, so let me know if you get stuck anywhere or need some more clarification. Environment is like 3/4 of what goes into taking care of a chameleon, so I want to help you get yourself set up however I can. My brain is yours to pick :)
  
  Good luck!