Reddit reviews EXP1250 12V 5Ah Home Alarm Battery with F1 Terminals // Chamberlain / LiftMaster / Craftsman 4228 Replacement Battery for Battery Backup Equipped Garage Door Openers

Very nice! If you want to make them truly portable add a shelf and grab two of these: EXP1250 12V 5Ah Home Alarm Battery with F1 Terminals // Chamberlain / LiftMaster / Craftsman 4228 Replacement Battery for Battery Backup Equipped Garage Door Openers https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WcyACbMX4FW7Y

You'll need a charger too for the batteries but should run them for hours.

What about something like this?

Any 12 volt battery will work.

The power wheel runs off of a 9.5ah 12v sealed acid battery, I actually bought a separate 5ah 12v battery to run the stereo and the lights also used these waterproof speakers so I can take out the stereo and hose it out when it gets muddy.

I'm going to be adding two new 12v batteries to the system in a parallel/series switching capacity to momentarily bump the voltage to 24v as a 'turbo button' option in the next couple weeks ;)

It really depends on what amplifier you use. If you use the Lepai, then a simple 12v lead acid battery will work. If you want to go with a little higher end amp, then you will likely need 2 12v batteries.

Depending on the stiip voltage....any small 12v leadacid battery.

Else, there are small A23 batteries that might power small amounts for a short time, they are also 12v


not sure what setup you want explained, because I'm not sure what you want. Strips have a + and a - terminal, or wires. +(red) goes to battery +, and - (black) goes to the negative terminal.

http://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower%C2%AE-12volt-Battery-Terminals-BLMFM12_5/dp/B0010Z4MDK/

Thats about the smallest I can find. 3.54" (L) x 2.79" (W) x 3.98" (H). If you really wanted to avoid drilling, I dont think it would fit in a normal size water bottle, but some sort of tupperwear with a screw on lid looks like it would fit in the water holding area if you have the talon I am thinking of.

Ive had ACK install a few things on my boats, and they usually only charge me for parts at the north Austin location. I cant imagine it would be much to have them drill the holes to run your cable where you wanted it.

The color temp will be important in your application, check out these bulbs, they have the right color and are very forgiving of low voltage and reverse polarity and are sealed against moisture.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UAALVM6


These are 3w each and put the same light as a 60w light bulb, for 5 hours of run time you'll need 1.25 amp hours of battery per light bulb, you'll also need a low voltage shut off to protect the batteries.

Here's a battery that could run 4 LED's for 5 hours, https://www.amazon.com/EXP1250-Terminals-Chamberlain-LiftMaster-Replacement/dp/B0010Z4MDK

but I'd put in a 10ah battery for redundancy.


Lastly you'll need a solar panel and charge controller,
https://harborfreight.com/home-outdoor/home/solar/100-watt-solar-panel-kit-63585.html

Unfortunately it's not going to fit down the stack, you can lay them leghtwise along the top of the boiler.

I like trains

The other option is to pair these two items.

https://www.amazon.com/POTEK-Inverter-Digital-Display-Charging/dp/B01MQM4EDY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494212043&sr=8-1&keywords=potek+inverter

https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1250-Alarm-Battery-Terminals/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494212143&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+5ah+battery

Not my idea, taken from an older thread. Less elegant, much cheaper.

sounds above my iq grade but a real stellar idea...

So I could get this: https://www.amazon.com/EXP1250-Terminals-Chamberlain-LiftMaster-Replacement/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=zg_bs_389574011_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4KS108G7HZRV4KP2DW1J

and something like this: https://www.cabelas.com/product/Battery-Tender-reg/734156.uts?productVariantId=3889810&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=03913618&rid=20&ds_rl=1252079&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_ZrXBRDXARIsAA8KauSl6RB8_k3tjvSa-RMkw1E3QEnAKG3qsLVUDwcGoMs5PBzu1WslmZIaAmD2EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

and something like this: https://www.ebay.com/p/12v-to-9v-Dc-dc-Buck-Converter-Step-Down-Module-Power-Supply-Voltage-Regulator-D/1468959390?iid=183113006956&chn=ps

Not sure I understand the best battery to pick given I don't know how to calculate or predict the necessary amperage rating...

would the order go: wall outlet -> battery tender -> battery -> 12v to 9v converter -> to amp board??

Also thank you for your time and for responding!

hobbyking.com, buy a decent lipo pack and a lipo->5v regulator, relatively cheap. For the 24v, it's up to you, you can get there with rc packs, alternately just buy a ryobi lion trimmer or similar with the 24v packs, you can grab the power directly off the leads.

@24v you're talking around 4aH, so some of the larger lion packs will do, if you go lipo you'll need to run a few more in parallel which is tricky.

The 5v is the easy bit, there are 5v switching regulators everywhere, the 24v is the tricky bit. As I said, something like a ryobi will get you there fast. Otherwise your inverter system will work fine too, just more expensive really.

edit:
Actually, have you considered running 2 sla motorcycle batteries in parallel? http://www.amazon.com/Volt-Alarm-Battery-12v5ah-Hour/dp/B0010Z4MDK ? You can buck down to 5v from there, http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Waterproof-Converter-Switched-Regulator/dp/B00CESVORE , then run your secondary system off that. Seems cheap, easy, not too big and it'll work.

I've worked with mikrotik before, and done 802.11n work, curious what you're trying to do exactly, but assuming it's unidirectional wifi repeating, so you'll have to adjust the interframe spacing and a few other things while you're at it. Think mikrotik mostly uses the atheros chipset so you're looking at hacking the driver slightly (which is unpleasant in the extreme, had to maintain it at an oem for a bit).

I'd really like to find something that can stand on its own without a sub, since none of my groomsmen will have a sub. Other than the Sprites, it looks like the rest of those were designed to be paired w/ a sub.

I saw the Sprites original design was a boombox, which I thought was pretty cool. I think that would be the most practical form that my groomsmen would use. Then I got to thinking, if it's going to be a boombox it needs to have bluetoof and I need to fit an amp and battery. Here's what I came up w/:

speakers $42.70
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd90-8-3-1-2-aluminum-cone-full-range-driver-8-ohm--290-210

port tubes $5.14
http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-1-3-8-id-adjustable--260-388

filter parts $17.19
http://www.parts-express.com/jantzen-audio-090mh-20-awg-air-core-inductor-crossover-coil--255-046
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dnr-20-20-ohm-10w-precision-audio-grade-resistor--004-20

amp $16.99
https://www.amazon.com/INSMA-TDA7492P-Amplifier-Wireless-Bluetooth/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1467991447&sr=1-1&keywords=bluetooth+speaker+amp+board

battery $15
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1250-Alarm-Battery-Terminals/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1468001600&sr=8-7&keywords=12v+sla+battery

battery charger $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LICD2TU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATW4RRWB3JMSM

• handle $3
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ18WLK/ref=crt_ewc_img_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
  
  
• optional $11 voltmeter + USB charger ports
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LUL054Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A11A70Q280RHPK
  
  
• plus another ~$12 in other misc build materials
  
  After adding all that I ended up at about $130 per which is too high. How can I get that down?
  
  What if I used 1 driver per boombox instead of 2...do you think that would still sound decent or is it not going to get loud enough by itself?
  

I was actually looking at a 12v 5aH alarm battery that fits the dimensions of the remaining space of the box. it's an SLA but I wish I could find a gel cell with the same dimensions. As for the panel, I've settle on not being able to run the amp on it, but I am pretty certain I can fit a big enough panel for a trickle charge that will at least extend the life of the battery when the lid is open. To fully recharge in a reasonable amount of time I guess I'll just hook it up to my motorcycle tender.

Key here is space for the battery and being able to fit it in the lid for the panel, kind of limits my options but I've been enjoying the learning experience of learning about solar and refreshing on some basics.