Reddit reviews GENNEL 10gram Thermal Conductive Glue Silicone Plaster Viscous Adhesive Cooling Compound For LED GPU Chipset Heatsink

We found 5 Reddit comments about GENNEL 10gram Thermal Conductive Glue Silicone Plaster Viscous Adhesive Cooling Compound For LED GPU Chipset Heatsink. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Suitable for all heatsink without fixed clip. It has heat conducting properties, strong adhesion. Helps disperse the heat from Chipset to heatsink effectively.Use for MOSFET, LED, heat sinks , North-south bridge, video card, Chipset, heat dissipation part, heat dissipation, electrical appliances, instruments and other industries.It has good thermal conductivity and wide service temperature range(-60~250 degrees Celsius)Thermal conductivity:> 1.2W/m-K, Do not use thermal glue "between CPU and HEATSINK"!Package Includes : 1 x GENNEL G109 10g thermal glue

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5 Reddit comments about GENNEL 10gram Thermal Conductive Glue Silicone Plaster Viscous Adhesive Cooling Compound For LED GPU Chipset Heatsink:

u/Carlifex · 5 pointsr/microgrowery

Sure!
Dein Username prüft übrigens aus.

The Light Units

The Chips x4: 98.6$

The Driver x1: 74.9$

CPU Cooler
x4: 55.96$

Thermal Adhesive Paste x1: 7.9$

4way pin for the coolers x1: 9$

Lights Total: 246.36$

Framing and stuff
Most guys build their framing out of aluminium profiles. I bought mine here from the %%% section: https://www.alu-verkauf.de/ALUMINIUM-ALUMINIUMPROFILE

Every country has its own manufacturers for these. Mine cost about 30$.

You also need cables. The veros are pretty flimsy. so take pretinned gauge x1: 9,95$

In order to screw the frame you might wanna cut holes swith a thread. This will do x1: 8.43$

Be careful these drills suck and break easily.

Screws x1: 12.98$

Wago Connectors
x1: 6.35;$

Were at about 315$.

Lets see what we can do with it.

Glue the COBs to the CPU cooler.
Drill the holes into the frame. You should plan that very carefully. Where to hang the frame, where you place the COBs...
Assemble and screw the frame. It should be a nice and tight framing.
my frame is build with 6 L-Profiles in which the COBs just lay around and one center piece: Link to Pic
screw on the driver and check the cable lengths.
measure your needed cable lengths.
cut the cables, strip them and connect them to the veros. Watch this video, if you need any help. I wired mine in row, because i chose this particular driver.
Connect the driver output to a Wallplug using three of the wagos. PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH THE CONNECTIONS!. I had one of these lying around. Everyone should have a cold device cable lying around somewhere.....
Connect the COBs to the driver. Please refrain from plugging in the driver while doing this :)
for testing, place the COBs in your direction on the floor and plug in the driver. U might need sunglasses, im not joking, its bright as hell. literal hell.
Connect the CPU coolers 4way y-cable to a sufficient power supply. Any Smartphone loader should do the trick. You need a few more wagos here.
In my case, i just placed the COBs losely on the frame, and connected the cooling units.
Plug in wall and grow weed.

You might additional hangers, cold device cables and another power source for the cooling fans. If you decide to buy the MeanWell HLG-320H-2100B you will need to connect a 10kOhm potentiometer to the Driver. This is to dim the light and safe money in vegphase. The HLG-320H-2100A has a build in dimmer which you can access via a screwdriver. I would recommend A, since its easier to operate. You can also regulate the fans of the cooler via a 150Ohm poti. If you dont like the sound, you can run them at 1/3 to 1/2 speed.

have fun!

u/thisuserisanon · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

This is what I used:

Thermal glue:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072MSXHJD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shim pads

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2XYFJ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Tylertooo · 2 pointsr/pcmods

LOL, I always make shit too complicated...

Yeah, THIS is what you need.

u/CaughtYourThrowaway · 1 pointr/ender3

Nice, yes those are mounted correctly. The biggest reason for me to go with thermal adhesive was the tape on my heatsinks was barely tacky. Here’s what I ended up getting: GENNEL 10gram Thermal Conductive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072MSXHJD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Arctic Silver is just paste, you need actual adhesive. That stuff seems to work very well after a 24hr cure.

Couldn’t agree more about the horrible A4988 noise. I shake my head seeing people mess around with stepper dampers and stuff, TMCs in Stealthchop are simply unbelievable. I ended up installing Noctuas everywhere since the cooling fans became the loudest part of the printer.

Biggest advantage IMO of UART is you can enable hybrid mode in Marlin. Automatically switches between Stealthchop and spreadcycle based on movement speed. I believe spreadcycle is a bit cooler, definitely noisier though. But it does provide more torque and reduces risk of skipped steps on fast moves. My average print is 95% Stealthchop, so still very quiet overall. And spreadcycle is still quieter than stock.

UART also lets Marlin automatically reduce stepper driver voltage if it detects overheat which sounds like would be valuable for your peace of mind. For what it’s worth, mine have never been triggered which is what I based my original comments on.

u/neiromaru · 1 pointr/lightsabers

Sometimes the lenses will just press fit snugly into the holes in the star, but you definitely don't want normal super glue that close to the LEDs, even with the wiring tidied up the star can get pretty hot with a small heatsink like that one.
I know you can get thermal glue designed for CPU heatsinks, and there are probably other glues designed for high temperatures that would work.