Reddit reviews How to Climb 5.12 (How To Climb Series)
We found 8 Reddit comments about How to Climb 5.12 (How To Climb Series). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Author: Eric J HorstSoftcover; 176 pages; color photographs and mapsGlobe Pequot Press; copyright 2012Includes a self-assessment test to optimize training, techniques and drills for advanced learning of climbing skills as well as strength and endurance trainingHow to Climb 5.12 also offers strategies for managing fear and building confidence, as well as tactics for on-sight climbing and redpointing
No offense but this is frankly a shit post. You've asked the most generic question ever without doing any homework yourself like reading the side bar. It's the equivalent of asking us how do YOU go about going from climbing 5.10 to 5.11. No one can answer that because no one's seen you climb. No one has any idea what your weak points are and what you are lacking. Hell you're not even self aware enough to describe any of the above in your post.
At this point in time we might as well tell you, you should just buy Horst's book: https://www.amazon.ca/How-Climb-5-12-Eric-Horst/dp/0762770295
I don't know of any training programs geared toward just women. If you're really into a detailed training program, the Rock Climber's Training Manual is about as detailed as it could be. I've also used training techniques from How to Climb 5.12 and Rock Warrior's Way, which is more mental training than physical.
Slopers also tend to be hard for me. The key is really to pull directionally, so use your core to get your body close to the wall, then pull on the sloper toward your center of gravity. Don't try to grab it or crimp it with your fingers--you want as much skin on the hold as you can get.
As far as the shoes go, if you have a good amount of rubber left on the toes, keep using them! New shoes can give you a real mental boost if you want to get a new pair--maybe don't go too aggressive--maybe something like 5.10 anasazis or la sportiva miura lace ups.
How to Climb 5.12 - The Book
I'm barely in the 5.12 range, but my improvement from 10d to 12a has coincided with an increased focus on bouldering (i.e. focusing on strength and power).
I also did a tiny bit of weighted hangboarding on a minimal edge early on and saw some improvement, but I don't know if I'd recommend that to you since you haven't been climbing very long. If you try it, take every precaution you can to make sure you don't injure yourself. Warm up well, use only open handed crimp or half crimp, and take long rests between hangs.
Like, there are remarkable differences from gym to gym on what constitutes a given rating. Just climb challenging rocks consistently (and maybe read a book and train a bit).
It sounds like you’re a boulderer and I know jack squat about that other than wearing a beanie might help you send harder, but to up your leading, I would really recommend the book here: https://www.amazon.com/How-Climb-5-12/dp/0762770295/
If you’re consistently sending v7s then 5.12s are probably in your wheelhouse.
Here are the best resources I've found. I will say this though: Find a solid climbing mentor to teach you all the safety basics (belaying, knots, anchors, etc.). I've only been climbing a little over a year, and I've seen some of the dumbest/craziest stuff outside already. It's good to read books and watch videos, but always have someone who knows that they're doing to check and double check that you're safe. Ask lots of questions--you only have one life and you don't want to die (or kill/hurt someone) from a dumb mistake that could be prevented.
Stay safe, find a mentor, and ask lots of questions.
If you're training for climbing, check out How To Climb 5.12
To improve in climbing you need sport specific training and weight loss.
The loss of ten pounds even when I am out of shape can drastically improve my climbing.
I highly recommend:
Training for Climbing
How to Climb 5.12
The Rock Warriors Way
I have heard that Dave Macleod's book
and Self Coached Climber
are also really good.