Reddit reviews J-B Weld 31314 High Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker and Sealant - Red - 3 oz.
We found 6 Reddit comments about J-B Weld 31314 High Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker and Sealant - Red - 3 oz.. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
HI TEMP RED SILICONE GASKET MAKER & SEALANT: Is an RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanized) Silicone gasketing material, designed for use in mechanical assemblies where the existence of higher, continuous temperatures up to 550º F or 650º F intermittent might existCOUNT ON US: For more than 40 years, our products have earned a loyal following from people who take pride in their work. With each product we innovate, we continue to provide the world's strongest bond for your projectsEASY TO USE: Curing when the product is exposed to the moisture in air, it forms a tough, waterproof seal on most surfaces. It will not shrink or crack, resists weathering and is sensor safeVERSATILE & DEPENDABLE: Ideal for automotive, metal, oil pans, exhaust manifolds, water pumps, timing covers, differential covers, drive housings and oven doorsDO IT YOURSELF: Big or small, you can DIY it with J-B. Our heavy duty adhesives repair & restore it right the first time. JB Weld delivers the legendary performance of the World's Strongest Bond
Starting at the top with the thermometers, I never did use the the one that came with the bbq, but I wanted a second one to fill the hole in the lid so I ordered two of the same, they seem to be pretty accurate when compared to my digital thermometers. Link to thermometers I ordered.
Moving left, I installed a gasket around the edges of the lid, I find this keeps the gasket clean from from meat drippings, sauces, etc. Over time the weight of the lid molds around the opening and creates a tight seal, no smoke or heat is lost through the lid.
Below shows a Weber Grommet that I use to run my temperature probes through. The gauge of metal on the OKJ is thicker than what it is on the Weber Smokey Mountain but with some elbow grease and olive oil it does make a snug fit.
Also in this picture you can see J-B Weld high temp silicone around the chimney.
Moving right to the picture of the grill grates, you can see below the grill grates a heat deflector baffle plate, at first I didn't care for this as I spent a summer learning how to use the BBQ without it. But after a bit of practice I learned how to use it and am really happy with it, seems to keep a nice even heat across the chamber.
Moving up to the last picture. I replaced the set bolts on the legs. I drilled through the legs and the stubs that are welded to the bottom of the chamber and installed bolts, I did this below too and have attached the bottom shelf with bolts through the legs. I found that moving the BBQ around seemed to stress and lossen the set bolts, doesn't help with cookin' but sturdies it up.
Also in this same picture I bought a bucket for the drippings.
Not pictured is a fire box basket. Keeps the coals and wood in place, if need be I can place a log in the chamber to warm it quickly before tossing in the basket.
A couple things I tried but didn't care for. The dryer vent elbow inside the chambrer to lower the chimney down to grate level, and a BBQ Guru bulk head in the firebox.
I've used this with no issues for a good six months now. It's a high-temperature silicone.
What you want is some of THIS
It only takes a tiny dab in the heat block and this stuff is a good thermal conductor. It's what I used when I replaced the thermistor in my MP Mini.
J-B Weld 31314 High Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker and Sealant - Red - 3 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ID8IUJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UBm1Db0XPYND2
The foil tape won't hold up overtime. This stuff, or any high temp RTV is the way to go. It smells bad until it dries, real bad.
So like this. https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-31314-Temperature-Silicone/dp/B00ID8IUJY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503802693&sr=8-1&keywords=hi+temp+silicone
I live in Germany, so not sure how much use my sources would be. But in essence, it's one of those https://www.amazon.com/Aupo-Thermal-Fuse-Cutoff-BF184/dp/B0124KO99G. They're quite easy to integrate into the circuit - my silicone pad had 2 wires for AC. One I've connected directly to the line voltage in the plug, one to neutral through the SSR. I've cut the line wire quite close to the heater, soldered the thermal fuse in the break and then covered with high-temp RTV silicone (something like https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-31314-Temperature-Silicone/dp/B00ID8IUJY/). And then once it hardened, added some more silicone. So it wont fall off or whatever. Maximum bed temp is set to 140 in my firmware, with the fuse breaking at 167, so I've got quite a bit of a leeway here. The downside is that if it does indeed fail - you're in for a lot of cleaning, it's not easy to rip that stuff from the silicone
Also if you do go down this route, I'd suggest looking up for to solder those fuses - I've destroyed the 1st one I've tried. Apparently, if you heat a thermal fuse with a soldering iron, they trip (who'd have guessed). What did it for me was soldering to the legs while the body of the fuse was submerged in icy water. I've also slid some heatshink on the fuse body and legs because the body is not insulated from the legs. All in all it was a bit of work but now I'm reasonably sure that my awesome 600W heated bed won't kill anything or set the house on fire.