Reddit Reddit reviews Krytox by Chemours GPL 205 Grease, Pure PFPE/PTFE, 0.5 oz Tube (D10170248)

We found 13 Reddit comments about Krytox by Chemours GPL 205 Grease, Pure PFPE/PTFE, 0.5 oz Tube (D10170248). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Industrial & Scientific
Tapes, Adhesives & Sealants
Industrial Lubricants
Krytox by Chemours GPL 205 Grease, Pure PFPE/PTFE, 0.5 oz Tube (D10170248)
Temp Range: -36C thru 204C: Viscosity 18cSt/100C, 160cSt/40C; Stable in a wide variety of operating conditions/environmentsNonflammable: Krytox Grease contains only carbon, oxygen & fluorine, (no hydrogen or silicone); Will not burn or support combustion; Passes impact standards with LOX, Nitrogen Tetroxide, Nitric AcidChemically Inert: Resistant to oxygen and inert to most all chemicals; Inert nature allows Krytox Grease to outlast/outperform hydrocarbon products; Chemically insoluble in nearly all solventsAt operating temps and pressures Krytox Grease is highly resistant to attack by gaseous and liquid oxygen; The preferred choice in oxygen; use and manufacturing industryExposure to significant radiation causes only minor DE polymerization (8% decrease of viscosity) and no formation of solids or sludge or change in appearance
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13 Reddit comments about Krytox by Chemours GPL 205 Grease, Pure PFPE/PTFE, 0.5 oz Tube (D10170248):

u/Muzzman1 · 7 pointsr/teslamotors

I had this exact issue

I found out what the service center uses to remedy it. It has been 100% resolved as a result.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWLDALQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is the stuff. $20 and it completely stopped squeaking.

In fact, I forgot it ever did until I saw your post @yazheinx

u/PuterPro · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

@smaxsomeass - VERY Nice Write-up! Thanks, I'll use this when I switch to glass. Too many problems with the Buildtak.

I have the MP Select V2 version, bought for Xmas ... :-)
I replaced the Y bearings with longer ones. When I pulled the short ones off I found 2 of the 4 were totally crap; noisy and rough. (On mine the X axis already had longer ones and they were smooth)

I used these from BangGood.com:
http://www.banggood.com/LM8LUU-8mm-Long-Type-Linear-Motion-Ball-Bearing-Slide-Bushing-CNC-Part-p-994394.html?rmmds=search

These are less than $2 US DELIVERED! Quality was excellent. I ordered 6, only 1 was SLIGHTLY noisy, but smoothed out right away. Can't beat it for the price.

They (banggood) have MANY 3D and R/C parts and tools.
Shipping was pretty fast, got my order in 7 days, not bad for free.
They also have a several great Temp guns; for $5 more than Harbor Freight's, greater range, better accuracy, and a color screen! This one: http://www.banggood.com/MUSTOOL-MT6550-Digital-LCD-Color-Display-Non-contact-Infrared-Laser-Themometer-Temperature-Gun-p-1080656.html?rmmds=search

As far as oil vs grease. I did use grease at first (VERY sparing!) but later found that oil is preferred, especially for the Z Axis screw gear, since grease will attach and hold dust!

Liberty Oil is my go-to oil, found after MANY hours of light oil & grease research while repairing a grandfather clock. Best all purpose oil there is, WAY better than Super Lube (which I used for years before my research...)!
http://www.amazon.com/Liberty-Synthetic-Lubricating-Grandfather-Clocks/dp/B00AZMGFI4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486501241&sr=8-1&keywords=liberty+oil

BTW - The most awesome grease for general duty light greasing is DuPont Krytox GPL 205 Grease:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWLDALQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's bloody expensive, but worth every penny, you'll want to have it's babies. LOL! Doesn't attack plastics and doesn't attract dust. High temps too. A-MAZ-ZING stuff. The GPL 207 is pretty good too and is stable out to 288° C

All the Best, PuterPro

u/donjoan666 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have lubed 65g zealio with krytox 205 grease

this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWLDALQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I lubed all the way down the sliders and also the bumps.
Is that okay?

u/Gui0312 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Not sure... but, here is the link off amazon

Krytox GPL 205 Grease, Pure PFPE/PTFE, 0.5 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_rlGZDbCVHG6B5

u/Peripheral_Installer · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

For stabs (stab housing/stem) your best bet is krytox 205, you can get a half oz tube for 20 bucks on amazon.. That is going to yield better results, trust me..

205 is also amazing on linears.. I wouldnt use anything less or any other brand, especially a 'custom mix' that has oil mixed in...oil doesnt last as long.. you want grease because it doesnt have the fluidity of oil, lasts much longer..

https://www.amazon.com/Chemours-Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+205&qid=1555994639&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For tactiles/clicky 202-204 depending on spring weight

https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B00MWLDCKA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+204&qid=1555994880&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For the stab bar inserts

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-6PK-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=permatex&qid=1555994695&s=gateway&sr=8-9&th=1

u/cthief · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here is a short build inventory for people who may want to perform this mod in the future:

  • 1x 0.5oz - 2oz tube of Krytox GPL 205 Grease. This will last you a long time.
  • 1x Victorinox Multi-Tool Oil or any plastic-safe, high viscosity oil.
  • 1x 100pc bag of 68g Cherry MX compatible springs
  • 100x Plate mount Cherry MX Clear keyswitches. You could also buy a KUL ES-87 with Cherry MX Clears, but just be sure to have extras in case of damage during the modification process.
  • 1x KUL ES-87 of any Keyswitch/color (black or smoke black) variety.

    Lube and replace switches based on WFD's guides. Get two small paintbrushes and a pair of forceps or tweezers to help manipulate the components during the lubrication process. You should also whip up a couple of these guys. They make opening the switches a hell of a lot easier.

    This was only my second time desoldering so I learned a lot along the way. Quality, flux-treated desoldering braid and a temperature controlled soldering iron with a chisel tip was the most reliable method I found to desolder. I used the Hakko FX888D soldering iron and station with a 2.4 mm x 14.5 mm Hakko chisel tip. I used Chemtronics' Chem-Wick desoldering braid to remove the solder from the plated through holes on the PCB. You have to take extra care when using desoldering braid not to heat up other components on the board, but with enough practice you will be a pro!
u/InductorMan · 1 pointr/MechanicalEngineer

Sure! You can get it in very small quantities though and it's not super expensive then. There is a $20 0.5oz (15ml) tube of Krytox here, not sure if the same quantity is available locally to you.

u/clothing_throwaway · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Questions about liner material and lube...

For liner material, what acoustic differences am I going to find between: neoprene, sorborthane, and rather generic looking "foam" rolls? They're all pretty much the same thickness, about 2-3 mm.

For lube, I'm looking at: Permatex dielectric grease, krytox 205 grade 2, trybosis 3204 and trybosis 3203. What would be good for stabs, what would be good for linears, and what would be good for tactiles? And if possible, is there anything that's a good "all-arounder"? Aka, something that could easily work for both stabs and switches.

u/Granimyr · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

It can be hard to describe the difference but the easiest way to describe it that I know of is like rubbing your fingers over perforated leather (more course but subtle) vs textile leather. You will definitely be able to tell a difference, and it's all about "key feel". It's not required at all, it's a just a matter of preference. I personally like it because the sound is more "muted" and the feel is more "fluid" imo.

If you don't know if you should do it, I would recommend trying some out at a meetup or if you have a cheap mech board (well fairly cheap) you can open the switches with an opener (https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1363) and some krytox 205 (https://www.amazon.com/Chemours-Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1550882164&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=krytox+205&psc=1).

u/JaYHiN456 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

What if I just bought this with HyperX Keycaps and the creams? I want PBT caps. https://www.amazon.com/Independent-Mechanical-Keyboard-Plastic-Aluminum/dp/B07JVMBMNK

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JDVG4RQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWLDALQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://novelkeys.xyz/products/novelkeys-cream-switches?variant=15400236777565

Also, how would I bind the other keys that I'm missing, for example with the Fn key like on Anne Pros and Ducky's, all the keys have secondary actions. How would I be able to do that so I still "have" the other keys sincet this isnt a TKL chipset?

u/RobotDeathSquad · -2 pointsr/CustomKeyboards

> from a private gb

Lmao /r/Gatekeeping

Also, can’t you just buy that on amazon? Krytox GPL 205 Grease, Pure PFPE/PTFE, 0.5 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0zMpDb8ZJFHXC