Reddit Reddit reviews Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller

We found 5 Reddit comments about Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Automotive
Automotive Tools & Equipment
Pullers
Special Application Pullers
Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller
Removes Cam Shaft and Crank Shaft Seals Without Damage to the ShaftEngage the adjustable hook behind the sealBrace the push rod against the engine head and push the handle to remove the sealRemoves the seal without damage to the shaft
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5 Reddit comments about Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller:

u/djjazzygiraffe · 16 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPYW4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v2G5AbS30MM51

^^^this is my go to favorite seal puller for crank, cam, and rear main seals. A wood screw will work but with this tool it's literally mindless and near impossible to mess up.

u/snowdrif · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

This thing is worth 10x what they charge for it even if you only use a couple times.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427590946&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+seal+puller

If you can i'd see if a local supply store has them.

u/testmule · 3 pointsr/Harley

I run into this every now and then.

  • Sometimes it's just a mater of getting the seal out. The ghetto drill 2-3 holes and put wood/self tapping screws into them and pull or Lisle make a shaft seal puller. I slide a piece of plastic in between the seal and the tube (ala seal-mate style) to protect the tube. Once the seal is out sometimes you can see what is going on or just by getting the seal out it will free up the upper bushing.
  • If people have been mean with a seal puller, snap rings or just sometimes poor machining there will be a little lip that stops the upper bushing from freely sliding out and then the lower tries to go under the upper bushing causing it to close up on the fork tube and stick it in place. This goes back to the above, once the seals out, you might be able to see what is happening and clean it up.
  • Heating. You heat the outer slider around the upper bushing area. The aluminum expands at a much greater rate than the steel tube making the bore diameter physically larger. Sometimes enough to slide the lower bushing under the upper. If the sliders are clear coated or painted this can be a good way to destroy the coating. If they are raw aluminum or polished you can get them much hotter than you think.
  • To press, most shops aren't set up to do this and don't have the fixturing on hand or a press with enough clearance.

    Working with them in the triple tree on the bike or in a old tree in a vise makes it much easier to make better use of the slide hammering action.
u/Lobster70 · 1 pointr/Miata

If the radiator top is olive or brown, replace the radiator while you're at it. TYC brand from Amazon is direct fit. Swap over the bushings (ignore the auto trans connections if yours is a manual--they connect to a separate chamber) and reinstall. Also replace the cap. If the plastic rad top is still black, OK to keep as-is.

I would replace the CAS O-ring with a new one and also the valve cover gasket (with a Mazda brand gasket).

Your TB kit should include new cam seals and a crank seal as well as idler pulley and tensioner pulley. I wouldn't mess with the crank seal myself if the existing one is not leaking. Same with cam seals if you don't have to pull them to get down to the head gasket...?

BTW this is my preferred seal puller: https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K

Also, it's only part of your planned job but you may find it helpful: TB/WP replacement worklist

u/Morgrid · 1 pointr/povertyfinance

This or this