Best special application pullers according to redditors

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPYW4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v2G5AbS30MM51

^^^this is my go to favorite seal puller for crank, cam, and rear main seals. A wood screw will work but with this tool it's literally mindless and near impossible to mess up.

I highly suggest a hand packer. You'll need a jack capable of lifting your trailer (I highly suggest a bottle jack), and stands to support it while your wheels are off. You'll need a 1-1/2 socket (I won't use a wrench on the castle nut), cotter pins if that's what your axle uses. You won't know until you take it apart so just buy a kit since they're cheap and you can use them if/when you need to work on your awning anyway. I use water pump pliers to remove the dust cap without damaging it. You'll need a seal puller. Breaker bar, torque wrench, and sockets to fit your lug nuts. Brake clean, I use varsol to clean everything but the drum. Varsol and cast iron don't mix. I'll clean everything after the varsol with brake clean because it evaporates. You'll need high temperature high pressure grease and new seals (if you bring your make and rating of axle to a dealer they can hook you up).

Jack up the trailer, take off the wheels, pop off the dust cap, take off the cotter pin or other retainer, remove the nut, washer, outer bearing, remove the drum, remove the seal, remove the inner bearing. Clean the bearings with varsol, clean everything with brake clean, blow everything with compressed air to evaporate the brake clean, pack new grease into the bearings, coat the axle spindle with grease, coat the bearing races with grease, reassemble.

The correct torque on the axle nut is 50ft/lbs while spinning the wheel to set the bearings, then loosen and retighten to finger tight.

I just did the Rear Main Seal on my Subaru. Tried that seal puller, couldn't get a good angle on it. This one worked for me finally:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

edit: that red one works better on smaller seals.

That piece of metal looks like it bolts under the chain cover and rides about .25 inches off the chain. It makes sure the chain can't get loose and skip a tooth on the front sprocket. It's also extra protection if the chain breaks, it might stop the chain from flinging forward and taking out the engine case. I may be wrong on identifying this part, that's just my best guess. It's not required to ride the bike, but it's nice to have.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/0kdDaZ4EAyA/maxresdefault.jpg

That's a good example of the guide, this one wraps around almost 180 degrees of the front sprocket.

As for your oil leak, there is no camshaft seal. To get some terminology right, a seal is used to keep oil in between a solid case part and a spinning shaft. A gasket is used between 2 solid case parts that don't move. The camshaft is higher up on the motor and it doesn't have an external seal, so it can't be leaking. This could be your output shaft seal. It goes behind your front sprocket.

http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2007-yamaha-virago-250-ca-xv250w1c/o/m145022#sch533970

If it doesn't link directly, put in your bike model, select transmission, oem parts, transmission. Number 25. Youll need an impact gun or a big breaker bar to get the front sprocket off, and a seal puller to get the old one out.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

Youll also need a hammer and the proper size socket to use as a driver to put the new on in. Don't forget to grease it up before installing it, helps it go in easier.

If the leak isn't coming from behind the sprocket, post a few pictures of where it is coming from and send me a pm, I'll help ID what's leaking. The only other option on that side of the bike though is the shifter seal or the crankcase inspection port o-ring.

Edit: you don't need a breaker bar for your front sprocket. Not sure how that sprocket mounts, but it doesn't have the single large nut most bikes do.

I run into this every now and then.

• Sometimes it's just a mater of getting the seal out. The ghetto drill 2-3 holes and put wood/self tapping screws into them and pull or Lisle make a shaft seal puller. I slide a piece of plastic in between the seal and the tube (ala seal-mate style) to protect the tube. Once the seal is out sometimes you can see what is going on or just by getting the seal out it will free up the upper bushing.
  
• If people have been mean with a seal puller, snap rings or just sometimes poor machining there will be a little lip that stops the upper bushing from freely sliding out and then the lower tries to go under the upper bushing causing it to close up on the fork tube and stick it in place. This goes back to the above, once the seals out, you might be able to see what is happening and clean it up.
  
• Heating. You heat the outer slider around the upper bushing area. The aluminum expands at a much greater rate than the steel tube making the bore diameter physically larger. Sometimes enough to slide the lower bushing under the upper. If the sliders are clear coated or painted this can be a good way to destroy the coating. If they are raw aluminum or polished you can get them much hotter than you think.
  
• To press, most shops aren't set up to do this and don't have the fixturing on hand or a press with enough clearance.
  
  Working with them in the triple tree on the bike or in a old tree in a vise makes it much easier to make better use of the slide hammering action.

This thing is worth 10x what they charge for it even if you only use a couple times.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427590946&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+seal+puller

If you can i'd see if a local supply store has them.

Soak it in penetrating oil overnight. Heat the top of the fork with a heat gun.

Buy one of these. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

Use it like this:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWLE_jjEKZI

If you would like to purchase a couple tools that will make your life easier that would be my preference. Not saying ive never hammered and screw driver bearings out ( it doesnt matter if you beat them up as long as you do not damage hub). I bought a bearing remover for my dirt bike and it works well with my bike as well.

Also you can get a bearing press for cheap money. Makes life easier and you can use it if you ever replace headset cups or anything. You can def. get away with using a socket to pound in the bearing if you do not want the tools.

https://www.amazon.com/TOOL-BEARING-WOB-UNIVERSAL-PRESS/dp/B01MU3K0I1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=37PM0YIDFQV6Q&keywords=tool+bearing+wob+universal+bb+press&qid=1569354103&s=gateway&sprefix=tool+bearing+%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=AMY4I718ZUBOU&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzM0I4VUJORjlYSzBEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjMwODIxMzRLTkFUWEdQUkJLOSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzE3NjA3MTFORDBNWEo3S1pTVyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W1219-Professional-Puller/dp/B000FW7W6S/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=performance+tool+w1219&qid=1569354202&s=gateway&sr=8-4

This is correct. Here's the middle one here:

https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-R-7845-Heavy-Wheel-Puller/dp/B001JT11GI

And the green ones:

https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-RP5PIN-Brushed-Aluminum-Assorted/dp/B001JT0H1S

A seal puller might help. Another trick that I know works on mountain bike forks and might transfer to yours is to pry the seal out with the round end of a tire lever.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

Will that seal puller work with the transmission countershaft still in place?

>>Not sure how that sprocket mounts, but it doesn't have the single large nut most bikes do.

The OP will have to remove 2 small bolts and the sprocket retainer bolted to the countershaft sprocket
to get it off.

This or this

If the radiator top is olive or brown, replace the radiator while you're at it. TYC brand from Amazon is direct fit. Swap over the bushings (ignore the auto trans connections if yours is a manual--they connect to a separate chamber) and reinstall. Also replace the cap. If the plastic rad top is still black, OK to keep as-is.

I would replace the CAS O-ring with a new one and also the valve cover gasket (with a Mazda brand gasket).

Your TB kit should include new cam seals and a crank seal as well as idler pulley and tensioner pulley. I wouldn't mess with the crank seal myself if the existing one is not leaking. Same with cam seals if you don't have to pull them to get down to the head gasket...?

BTW this is my preferred seal puller: https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K

Also, it's only part of your planned job but you may find it helpful: TB/WP replacement worklist

Simpler to just go with a seal puller