Reddit reviews Loctite 1999131 All Purpose Repair Putty, 2 Ounces

you can use this shit to bond metal. it would be stronger than thin solder, imho. you can sand this when dry, with a fine sandpaper to a smooth finish. it’s nasty to work with, mixing it with the fingers, but it’s amazing stuff. rough up any metal surfaces that will come into contact with the product by scraping it on cement or a metal file or sandpaper first.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BOB8P6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you are looking for something more cost effective than Sugru (which is great, but not cheap) you can try an epoxy putty.

That kind of plastic can be screwed and held together with 2" drywall screws. And it will hold. Pre drilling is an option, but only drill with a very skinny bit. You don't have to pre drill that shit, unless you decide upon fatter screws than drywall. In fact you can practice screwing through the plastic on another area of the chair. And because it may be impossible for the plastic to be brought together for the repair without removing the base, which you must do, (because thinking that you can rely on the screws to bring the plastic together is a bad idea) you probably need to separate the chair and base. Separate the base by removing and sliding the top clip off, and the washer pictured, and the black metal tube will then slide off. This will allow you to hold only the plastic base for the repair. You need to close the gap of the torn plastic before and while you put the screws in. A small clamp, or a pair of vise grips. Or pull together 2 ends of the star where the wheels are, and tape or string them together. Then with a drill, in an x pattern, put 4 screws into it, 2 from each side, at 3/4 of an inch from the top, and then 3/4" further down. After your 4 screws are in place, remove your clamp device, and mix this putty and force it into the entire cavity and down over the screws, for additional solidity. Reinstall the chair to the base because it's ready to be used. The putty will begin doing its job soon enough. You can also put a 1 inch drywall screw into the other smaller crack. From the thinner piece into the heavier, or right to left.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-431348-Multi-Purpose-Repair/dp/B000BOB8P6/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474483504&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=loc+tite+putty+epoxy+stick

I was speaking specifically of epoxy putty like this, this or this. Will that stuff not work because it might get too hard when dry? Would the silicone actually be better in this case?

It's fairly easy if you are just replacing a standard plate with another standard plate. (Mounting on virgin boots, doing a short-forward mount, or things like that get a bit more technical)

Chances are you will need to drill new holes in your boot (often you can get 1 or 2 holes to line up, which is a good starting point). What you want to do is match the centerline of the old plate (kingpin-to-kingpin in the case of a non-symmetrical plate) with your new plate, and marking the axle and toe stop locations on the side of the sole is a good reference for the front-to-back placement.

I use a two-part epoxy stick to fill the old holes.

There was a good beginner's guide that was published in Five on Five a few years ago.

Ding All is overkill for this repair. This is very easy to repair with Epoxy putty that is cheaper and just as durable (if not more) with this size ding. You can get it from a paddle/surf shop for $12 to $15 a tube or get the exact same thing from HomeDepot or Lowes for half the price under Loctite or JBWeld. I keep a tube with me whenever I go out for emergency repairs to keep it water tight.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1999131-Purpose-Repair-Ounces/dp/B000BOB8P6

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8277-White-Pack/dp/B000BRQ0TW/

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BluePlanet has decent video showing how to do it. Their Ding Stick is the same stuff as above.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5SPbD-te7o

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After it dries give the area some sanding. Start around 150 - 180 grit then finish ultra fine, like 220 grit or higher. I've used it a few times on a yellow Naish board, then hit the spot with some Krylon and it's hard to see the repair.

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Yes, get some epoxy putty, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-431348-Multi-Purpose-Repair/dp/B000BOB8P6 Used it to fix a very similar problem on my 7509HDs, solid as a rock now. Make sure to scrape the plastic a bit before you apply it so it binds well - wrap it around the broken area. I also painted it black afterwards, doesn't look too bad.

Edit: Here's a decent tutorial: http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-Fix-Bose-Headphones/

You mean the little keyboard feet that raises up the back?
Just repair it

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1999131-Purpose-Repair-Ounces/dp/B000BOB8P6/ref=lp_256244011_1_10?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1524385833&sr=1-10

Has anyone used plumber's putty on higher-draw weight bows to modify the grip?

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1999131-Purpose-Repair-Ounces/dp/B000BOB8P6/ref=pd_day0_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000BOB8P6&pd_rd_r=S17AZ1QRQP3XHQ8KA3MM&pd_rd_w=xNmzf&pd_rd_wg=Qfnqa&psc=1&refRID=S17AZ1QRQP3XHQ8KA3MM&dpID=51eSZk39EIL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

Alternatively, would I be better off using something like Sugru and just build up a bunch of it?

I've got a 60 lb. takedown longbow that I'll be putting this on (it's got a high-wrist grip, I want to change it to a low-wrist grip)-- just want to make sure that it's not going to crack in half as I draw the bow!