Reddit reviews Nilight 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit, 2 Years Warranty
We found 5 Reddit comments about Nilight 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit, 2 Years Warranty. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
SELF-STRIPPING ELECTRICAL TAP CONNECTORS - Nilight Self Stripping Electrical T Tap Connectors Makes tapping into an existing wire a quick and easy jobVERSATILE KIT - 60 piece T-Tap Wire Connectors + 60 piece Male Quick Disconnects will last for numerous wiring projects. Marine, automotive, scientific, home wiring projects - you name itTHICK TINNED COPPER CONTACTS - Thicker tinned copper contacts provide maximum conductivity and prevents the wire from shorting out efficientlyQUALITY T-TAP CONNECTOR HOUSING - Quick splice T-Tap connectors will securely lock on the wire. Plastic housing will not open after it has been snapped on the wirePERFECTLY FITTING MALE QUICK DISCONNECTS - Nylon male disconnects have been designed to lock tightly on the T Tap connectors to prevent sliding out
Sure thing:
Charger Port
https://powerwerx.com/panel-mount-dual-usb-device-charger?gclid=CjwKEAiAvZTCBRDvnoOaoa2j3xISJABxPjN9lAYkK9VHJy09GpoVvsMyWgTRaMPgoooQ8iCKM6-xxBoC3IDw_wcB
Relay
https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6
So... I have to ask... did you know a resistor and a relay are completely unrelated functionally? As in, resistor resists, adding a load to the circuit, (for various reasons needed) and a relay uses a signal from one circuit to complete a wholly separate, circuit.
Therefore, I don't know why you'd use a resistor in place of a relay. Like, at all. Perhaps I need enlightenment there... :)
As far as what relay, in a car, a standard 12v car 'box' relay will do. This one's cool, it comes with a socket it plugs in to. These are cheap and just lying around in any auto parts store, however, and you can use female spade terminals if you want and just bolt it in somewhere handy.
Don't forget either an inline blade fuse holder or an AGC one, and I'd fuse it for, oh, 5 amps. Shouldn't need much, just make it fast blow, and enough amps to ensure the lights won't blow it, but it'll blow in a short. LEDs shouldn't need a big fuse, really.
Hope that helps ya.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6
They sell them at every auto parts store in the country. A few different variants on wiring. Look up how to wire a relay, not too hard. You will need to get an ignition-tied 12 volt signal from somewhere, yes you'll have to tap into the factory wiring but there are a million places to do this behind the dash/fairing/gauges/ignition.
I can run with that I think. By using a relay like this (https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6) I should be able to tie the 12v that starts the pump to the contacts 30(+) and 85(-), wires to the sensor to 85(-) and 87(+), and connect the 30(+) to 86(+) to trigger.
I'll have to go check, but they're standard 12v automotive relays. They look similar to these, which are actually cheaper. So, never mind, get them from Amazon.