Reddit reviews PerfectPrime TC41, 4-Channel K-Type Digital Thermometer Thermocouple Sensor -200~1372°C/2501°F, 20 x 4 Data Log Storage Function

You need some K type thermocouples sir. Most come in waterproof housings.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0142HFA06/ref=pd_aw_sim_79_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=78VK726FEHSSH2C6MRX3

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0142RXG84?psc=1

Hey Folks,
I was asked to provide a more detailed view on what I have done with the zirc wire.
I'm happy to provide a better view on my measuring technique.
If you can give feedback to the method or TC measuring in general, please let me know.

I first tried to measure the temp with a old and small IR thermometer i got laying around.
The values were totally confusing, so I asked what could cause this error.
Some kind user told me that IR does depend on the emissivity of different materials.
This made sense, as I got really different values for the same setup.
So I bought a real Thermometer with 4 channels and probes you could insert into coils, etc.
This helped a lot in getting "real" values for the temp which was reached on different TCR settings.

The zirc wire measurings were done with different places for the probe.
I inserted it into the coil, but noticed that the direct measurement of the coil (under the rips) was more accurate.
The placing inside the cotton "stole" some temp from the measurement, so I chose to go with the setup shown in the zirc thread.
I think this should work for most mods and wires with TC.
I would suggest to buy a thermometer with probes, as they are way more accurate than anything else I tried.
BUT the probes are slow sometimes, so you have to fire a minimum of 8sec, or fire a second time when the probe has "reached temperature".
I will have a look at "faster" probes, but now I dont have the money to buy a good set of probes to test them all.
The measuring was absolutely possible with the "slower" probes provided with the thermometer i bought.

As I dont own many mods, just a istick pico, a VTC Mini and an egrip2 with the adaptor for 510, I didnt have the need to test any further.
I have ordered some SS316 in 29 Gauge (0,28mm) from zivpf and will continue the tests with this wire.
As the TCR for SS316 is more public, I thought it would be a good idea to test something which is commonly known.
So, I will get back and post if I come to new conclusions about TC with SS316 on this 3 mods.
I also own 3 different atomizers (serpent mini22, subtank mini and lemo2), so I will do this tests with all 3 atomizers.
The best choice in my opinion is a atomizer which doesnt "hop" massively on the cold resistance in Arctic Fox.
The subtank gave the most stable "cold resistance" in the past, so I will begin with this.
Until then, I wish everybody a happy, good vape and a great time.
Cheers

Hey man, I know what it's like to make videos and get knocked on. I'm actually an 11 year manufacturing engineer who's poured molten metal on an industrial level, hundreds of thousands of pounds worth. I've Programmed and ran CNC machines, cut metals, drill welding, worked with water tools, abrasive tools, etc.

I've been trained by my grandfather who's been pouring metal since the 50's and my father who's been doing it since the 70's. Along with another half dozen men who all have a minimum of 20 years experience in industrial manufacturing. I'm going to give you some practical advice on how you could drastically improve your safety.

 

• I saw your DIY foundry once, you used cement in the slurry mix. I hope to god you aren't leaving that thing outside. Actually I hope you never use that furnace ever again. Good move using the aquarium stuff but cement is literally the worst thing you can use for anything with a flame on it. Cement is porous, it will absorb moister. If that thing ever absorbs enough and you fire it up, it WILL explode. If you are lucky it will just crack and i know you'll probably reply, "well I've been using it for ....". Ok, that's fine but what my father taught me the first time i stepped foot in our shop, "Dzuari, all it takes to kill you IS once." Don't ever fuck with mother nature or machines, you will always lose.
  
  If you are still using that furnace, please throw it out and remake it so my grandfather can stop rolling in his grave. Use one of these materials;
  
  Fine Kiln dried lapis sand
  
  Silica Sand 6lbs
  
  2200deg Rutland castable cement Fire Clay
  
  25lbs Rutland castable cement
  
  Kaowool Insulation Blanket
  
  Your best bet is to use silica sand but it's typically more expensive, however it will last the longest. The refractory is really where the durability is. I'd experiment with different types, you could even try adding in fiberglass reinforcement which may increase durability. Oh and here is a K-type thermometer. You can buy some thermocouple leads and figure out the math to accurately measure your burn temperatures so you don't over oxides your metals.
  
  And honestly, if it was me, I'd remove that video and remake it. Someone will watch that video, go out and buy cement and one day it will explode on them. That's an extremely dangerous way to make a furnace.
  
   
  
  
• Electricity and water. You can easily make your videos a whole lot safer just by distancing your water source from the electrical components with something like this for your Dremel. Pretty much apply this methodology to anything that involves electricity and water. The farther your motor and 120v input is to the water source, the better. You can make a quick plexiglass cover to help seperate it, make an extension shaft so the cutting wheel is further distanced and always wear heavy duty, insulated rubber gloves.. Hell you could even make your own retrofit abrasive water cutter with simple motor and pulley system. Matthais Wandel has a great belt sander build that wouldn't be hard at all to make your own water/abrasive wheel setup.
  
  The way you set up that cuttoff wheel.... smh. Please don't do that. Also I'm sure you already read the comments but there are times when to wear gloves and when not to wear gloves. You need to use a vice or clamp any time you can if it means avoiding using gloves when using a high-speed cutter of any kind. Especially if it's a wheel. Again, it only takes once.
  
   
  
  
• General safety. You should really read every single MSDS sheet you get on anything you buy retail or salvage. I've seen you light stuff on fire with zero respiration protection or use things that should have been done on a downdraft table or you were wearing improper clothing. Some of the stuff you work with can really fuck you up and you blatantly did not know of it's harmfulness or willfully disregarded it.
  
   
  
  Overall man I like your videos but in my opinion of everyone DIY'er i watch on youtube, you are hands down the lease safe. I usually spot something you did wrong in every video you post. Whether you feel responsible for your viewers and what they do with the information you give them, is up to you. I just figured I'd give you some pragmatic advice from someone who does this stuff for a living. I actually did a few youtube videos about 6 years ago on my Channel over industrial level green sand. I'm planning on quitting my job within the next mont or two to start my own workshop/foundry/DIY/Youtube/website marketing thing from scratch. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll gladly answer them.
  
  Here's some random tips;
  
  
  Don't use pop can metal for anything structural. It's 3000's series aluminum and it's mades specifically to be malleable. Good rule of thumb for scrap metal is, if it came from something cheap, the metals cheap. The highest quality aluminum you can get for CASTING is automotive parts. Typically made from A356-T6, very good aluminum. I see a lot of guys metal down "Aircraft" or "Aerospace grade" aluminum for casting thinking it's going to be strong. It will not be, 6000 or 7000 series aluminum is all wrought/worked aluminum. It gets it's strength from massive presses that squeeze the metal into shape. Once you heat it up it looses all that strength.
  
  T6 heat treat is the most common treat process for aluminum. If you are making something structural, heat treatment will greatly increase it's strength. But you have to use the correct aluminum for or it can't be treated (Automotive parts/A356). The process is usually 8hrs at 800-1000F then either a quench/2hrs at 300F or age hardening. With that K type thermometer you can easily set up your furnace to heat treat. Also, most aluminum age hardens once poured, usually around 21 days.
  
  Please never wear shorts ever again when working with molten metal. It's not that it will burn your leg. It's that it will hit your leg, then fall into you shoe. Then you have a burning foot and a ladle of molten metal in your hand. I've done this with high top boots and jeans on. My father would fire my on the spot if he ever saw me pouring with shorts on. I saw a guy poure about 2lbs of aluminum into his boot once. 6 years later his still on disability. Please don't ever do it again.
  
  
  Random informational videos
  
  Metallugical nature of Aluminum and crystalizing structures
  
  Grain Structure of Metal
  
  Cold work vs Hot work metal. E.I. this is wrought metal like 3000, 6000 & 7000 series aluminum
  
  Cermaic Material for Furnace Insulation