Headphones

HyperX Cloud 2 - $70

Steelseries Arctis 7 - $100

Steelseries Arctis Pro with DAC - $200

Astro A50 - $200

Corsair Void Pro Wireless - $60

HyperX Cloud Stinger - $40

HyperX Cloud Pro - $50

HyperX Cloud Flight - $90

​

Keyboards

Corsair K68 - $80

Corsair K75 Mk.2 - $150

Corsair K95 - $110

Razer Huntsman - $100

HyperX Alloy Core - $30

HyperX Alloy FPS - $80

​

Mice

Steelseries Rival 600 - $50

Logitech G602 - $25

Razer Naga Trinity - $55

Logitech G502 - $35

Razer DeathAdder Elite - $35

​

Monitors

Dell D2719HGF (27", 1080p, 144Hz, Freesync) on sale for $150

Acer ED323QUR (31.5", 1440p, 144Hz, Curved, Freesync) - $270

Acer KG241Q (23.6", 1080p, 144Hz, Freesync) - $188

Acer Nitro VG271 (27", 1080p, 144Hz, Freesync) - $210

Alienware AW3418DW (34", 3440x1440p, Ultrawide, 120Hz Overclocked, G-Sync) - $720

Samsung LC32JG50QQNZA (32", 1440p, 144Hz) - $300

Acer EI491CR (49", 3840x1080p Ultra.. ultrawide?, 144Hz, Freesync) - $700

Acer KB272HL (27", 1080p, up to 75Hz, Freesync) - $115

Dell S3219D (32", 1440p, Freesync) - $220

ViewSonic XG2702 (27", 1080p, 144Hz, Freesync) - $180

​

​

Internal Components

Ryzen 7 2700X - $200

Ryzen Threadripper 2920X - $250 Sold Out

MSI Armor RX 590 - $180

Sapphire RX 570 4GB - $120

Ballistix Elite 16GB (8GBx2) DDR4 3600 RAM - $105

Corsair H115i RGB Platinum - $105

​

Other

Vive Pro - Up to $200 off

Samsung Galaxy S10 - $600, S10+ is 700

​

Some laptops and desktops on sale too, along with power supplies, routers, wifi extenders, and cases.

​

NOTE: The computer deals are located in two different places. PC Gaming section and PC Component section.

I've hit character limit, if I find more I'll add it underneath this

​

edit: Thank you to the kind redditor who gave me my first gold!

edit2: A silver too?! Thanks!

$130 - Sennheiser HD 599 SE Special Edition, Black

$130 - Sennheiser HD 4.50 Special Edition, Bluetooth Wireless Headphone with Active Noise Cancellation, Black

​

$541 - HKC 34'' (3440x1440p) 21:9 Ultrawide 100hz Curved Freesync VA Panel 8ms GTG Rebranded Viotek GN34C, I think it's a Samsung CF791 Panel

$870 - Samsung LC34J791WTNXZA 34" 3440x1440 100Hz QLED 21:9 VA Freesync Thunderbolt 3

$115 - ViewSonic VX2257-MHD 22 Inch 75Hz 2ms 1080p TN

$650 - Samsung 32" QLED 1440p 144Hz HDR 600 WQHD Curved Gaming Monitor Freesync 2 VA

$315 - LG 27GL650F-B 27" 144hz IPS HDR 10 Freesync

$165 - AOPEN 24HC1QR Pbidpx 23.6" 1080p 144hz 1800R Curved FreeSync 4ms VA

$320 - AOPEN 32HC1QUR Pbidpx 31.5" (2560x1440) 144Hz 1800R Curved VA 4ms Freesync Ships within 1-3 months

$260 - ViewSonic VX3276-2K-MHD 32 Inch 1440p IPS Frameless

​

$270 - AMD Ryzen 7 2700X

$765 - AMD Ryzen Threadripper 2950X

​

$200 - Toshiba X300 8TB Hard Drive 7200 RPM 128MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5 Inch

$120 - Toshiba NAS N300 4TB NAS 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive- SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 128MB

$315 - Toshiba NAS N300 10TB NAS 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive- SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 256MB

$80 - Seagate FireCuda 2TB SSHD 2.5 Inch SATA

$57/96/186 - XPG GAMMIX 256/512GB/1TB S11 Pro 3D NAND PCIe NVMe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 SSD

$106 - Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD

$107 - Crucial BX500 960GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5-Inch Internal SSD

$242 - Crucial MX500 2TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch SSD

$104 - Toshiba Canvio Advance 4TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0, White

$120 - WD Elements 6TB USB 3.0 External HDD Color Black WDBWLG0060HBK-NESN

$95 - Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5" SATA III SSD

​

$81 - Ballistix Sport LT 16GB Kit (2x8GB) DDR4 3000 MT/s (PC4-24000) CL15 SR Gray

$137 - Ballistix Elite 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 3600 MT/s (PC4-28800) CL16 SR Ships within 1-2 months

$73 - Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 3000 CL16 Black Non-prime, ships within 1-3 months

​

Other Components

$110 - DEEPCOOL Castle 240 RGB Liquid CPU Cooler Non-prime

$170 - Corsair H115i 280mm RGB Platinum AIO Liquid CPU Cooler

$35 - Deepcool RF120 3-Pack 120mm RGB PWM Fans with Fan Hub and Extension Non-prime

$805 - ZOTAC Gaming GeForce RTX 2080 Twin Fan 8GB

$198 - Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO ATX Motherboard

$120 - Corsair RM750x 80 Plus Gold Fully Modular ATX PSU CP-9020179-NA

$170 - Corsair HX850i High Performance 80+ Platinum Fully Modular ATX PSU

$60 - Corsair Fan Controller Commander Pro CL-9011110-WW

​

$33 - Logitech G602 Wireless Gaming Mouse

$40 - Logitech G403 Prodigy Wired Gaming Mouse

$50 - Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB Tunable Gaming Mouse

$50 - Razer DeathAdder Elite: True 16,000 5G Optical Sensor

$64 - SteelSeries Rival 600 Gaming Mouse, 12,000 CPI TrueMove3+ Dual Optical Sensor

$55 - Logitech MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse, Graphite Ships within 1-2 months

$22 - NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch

$25 - HyperX Double Shot Black & White Pudding PBT Keycaps - 104 Mechanical Keycap Set for Cherry MX

$30 - Corsair mm350 Anti-Fray Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad Extended XL

$10.50 - SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - Medium Cloth

$23 - SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - Medium Hard

$135 - Razer Huntsman: Opto-Mechanical Switch

$55 - Logitech C920 Webcam HD Pro (960-000764)

​

$10.91 - AmazonBasics AAA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (8-Pack) Pre-charged 850mAh

$12.48 - AmazonBasics AAA Rechargeable Batteries (12-Pack) 800mAh

$18.89 - AmazonBasics AA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (8-Pack) Pre-charged 2400mAh

$1.49 - Oreos and other snacks :)

It’s new for 56

https://www.amazon.com/RAZER-DEATHADDER-ELITE-Mechanical-Ergonomic/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539783378&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=deathadder+elite&psc=1

Not OP but I think this is it.

I'd argue that the Razer DeathAdder Elite at $49.99 is probably a better mouse. Lighter, better cable, and a safer shape for the majority of users.

The shape of the Proteus core/spectrum is pretty unique, closest thing to it is the [Corsair M65 Pro] (https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsair-m65-pro-rgb-optical-gaming-mouse/5092004.p?skuId=5092004). It goes on sale for $40 all the time. Both the m65 pro and the g502 are pretty heavy though.

If you're looking to get away from the odd shape while staying with a solid sensor, the [Deathadder Elite] (https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-Ergonomic-Comfortable/dp/B01LXC1QL0) is my personal recommendation. Goes on sale below $50 all the time as well.

Could just be cause the mouse is 5 years old,

Here’s an amazon link for the updated DeathAdder they put out last year - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AAS888S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DxeQAbS51A5XD ($40)

I have the elite and personally argue it’s well worth the extra $17 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JzeQAb3SKQBJD ($57)

The DeathAdder Elite is the same price on amazon.

Are you in dire need of one at the moment, for a specific game you want to play via K&M? If not (and I’m in this boat) I’d wait for the official Xbox/Razer set to come out in early 2019. If not, then there’s likely to be some great deals on for Black Friday. You won’t need any crazy features, just a decent high DPI mouse and a keyboard with decent switches. You can go for mechanical if you want to spend a bit higher, which is super nice, but it’s definitely not necessary.

With just a quick search I found this mouse on for almost 50% off on Amazon :

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-Mechanical-Ergonomic/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1542975100&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=razer+keyboard+and+mouse



And this keyboard with Cherry Blue Mx switches for $39 too :

https://www.amazon.com/d/Pc-Gaming-Keyboards/GIGABYTE-Mechanical-Keyboard-K83-RED/B01BMJ0Y76/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542975270&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mechanical%2Bkeyboard&dpPl=1&dpID=41XdHzFV9sL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1


Honestly it’s hard to go wrong, just read reviews and enjoy, don’t buy into too much of the hype around certain products and name brands, but if you can snag a good deal on a higher end set for the price of a regular one, we’ll, obviously that’s a good bet. Cheers, best of luck to you!

same price on amazon and prime eligible:

https://www.amazon.ca/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-Multi-Color-Comfortable/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487820629&sr=8-1&keywords=deathadder+elite

lowest price historically on pc part picker

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-Ergonomic-Comfortable/dp/B01LXC1QL0

It's $58 on amazon.

Not sure what retail is, $60 or $70? But it's $55 at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-Ergonomic-Comfortable/dp/B01LXC1QL0

The Corsair Harpoon looks good. I'd also recommend the DeathAdder Elite and Raptor M45

I would consider; 1) switching to a USB wired mouse, 2) When you are using the RODE-NT USB microphone, don't use your USB headset, use audio-jack headphones.

This will reduce the chances of the wrong MIC confusing windows. Here are a few product suggestions:

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-Mechanical-Ergonomic/dp/B01LXC1QL0/

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M20x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR18/

Razer Deathadder Elite for 3.5k:

https://www.amazon.in/Razer-RZ01-02010100-R3A1-Death-Adder-Gaming/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=razer+viper&qid=1569826169&smid=A14CZOWI0VEHLG&sr=8-5

So when it comes to buying a mouse it is really all about your play style and feel. If you like to palm the mouse meaning that your whole hand is round the mouse a good mouse is the Razer Deathadder If you like the claw grip using mostly only your finger tips than I would recommend the Logitech G Pro I personally now use this mouse but used the Deathadder for a number of years. Both mice have over a 12,000 dpi setting once you install the software you can adjust as you please, but tbh most likely you will play between 200-900 dpi and 1.2-3.2 sensitivity in game. All of this is preference and you will figure out over a long period of time playing key board again is all preference it depends if you like silent of mechanical Razer Cynosa is a very nice silent one in your price range, for mechanical I have owned a lot of them and tbh the one I use is a off brand one I bought from my local Walmart and and I like it more than any high dollar ones I have owned so you might want to look there. Also you will need a nice mouse pad I have and will probably continue to use for years the razer goliaths speed it is cloth and I like it, there are also hard pads many people I know use and enjoy the Corsait MM8800 but again this is all up to preference. Last thing if you are trying to play at any high lvl of competition you might want to look into a 144hz monitor if your computer can run what ever game you are playing over about 200fps I have Acer 24inch 144hz the price is really good and makes a huge difference. well that is about all I can think about I wish you the best of luck and above all just have fun.

​

i just bought the razer deathadder elite, its actual value is 70$, but if you bought it now, u will pay 45$ (discount) saving 25$.
https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-Mechanical-Ergonomic/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=21WFI47BQ4V35&keywords=razer+deathadder+elite&qid=1557046759&s=gateway&sprefix=razer+death&sr=8-3

Keyboard: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075KMZ4MX/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526994526&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rgb+gaming+keyboard&psc=1

Mouse: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LXC1QL0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526994692&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=razer+rgb+mouse&psc=1

Although really any reputable brand makes nice keyboards and mice. To be honest micro center or a real store is better as you actually get to feel it for quality/ergonomics. Also, micro center does bundle deals on CPU and motherboard, but other parts you might find cheaper online if they don’t match prices.

Price history

Razer Death Adder Elite

It's my first adjustable dpi mouse. I played CSGO for years on nothing more than an old two-button M$ Intellimouse from about 2004. In fact, I only quit using it because there were no drivers after WIN10 v1903.

Realistically, what does a mousepad give you that a clean desk surface does not?

If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use !check instead )

This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. Currently the points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads.

This should be working, hopefully

In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

----

> Looking for a great VR while sitting down and have thick-ish glasses. I have an 1080ti, 32gb of RAM and an 8700K.
>
> What is the best sitting experience that's cheaper than buying a vive pro?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eaj43u4/

----

> Hey guys, I built my pc a few years ago but i am now in college and am unable to ship it here. I am about to buy a mid tier prebuilt pc + peripherals for my dorm room. I just want to make sure everything is compatible and i have everything i need, i dont want to realize that i am missing some important cable or something is not compatible. Links below!
>
> ​
>
> Ive already done a fair bit of research so i think im good to go, but just wanted to get some other opinions! FYI I am pretty set on buying everything from amazon. Thanks guys!
>
> ​
>
> PC
>
> ETHERNET CABLE
>
> HEADSET
>
> MOUSE
>
> KEYBOARD
>
> MONITOR

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eajdvc8/

----

> Can RGB RAM be used with any motherboard as long as it's not super basic? I'm helping a friend build but have never used RGB. We're looking at Corsair Vengeance RGB RAM.
>
> Examples of motherboards -
>
> https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qXCrxr/msi-z370-krait-gaming-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z370-krait-gaming
>
> https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HLvZxr/msi-z370-tomahawk-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z370-tomahawk
>
> https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ffYWGX/gigabyte-z370-hd3-rev-10-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z370-hd3-rev-10
>
> https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4hnG3C/msi-z370-pc-pro-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z370-pc-pro

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eajjgd1/

----

> I need immediate help please.
>
> I was browsing and got bluescreen "kernel security check failure". Blue screen got stuck at 55% and i restarted. Now pc gets power, shuts down and restarts. And does this continously without reaching bios.
>
> I need to send my homework in 4 hours please help...
>
> EDIT: I DID IT! When I removed the ram, computer didn't shut down immedieatly but it didn't send anything to the monitor. I thought ram died but i inserted it into DIM2 and it works. Any idea why that happened? Is it a problem with DIM1 slot I used for 4 years? I was expecting to buy another 8GB ram and there is no other slot on the motherboard.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eak5ikv/

----

> Recommendation for good coolers to at least slightly overclock a Ryzen 5 2600? Shouldn't be over 50€

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eak6k6r/

----

> OCing my MSI GTX 970 and temperatures hit 91°C after 2 minutes in Kombustor ?
>
> Hello, here is a screenshot of all the settings : https://i.imgur.com/UcV6hvb.png
>
>
> I first put the power limit at 110%. Then bumped the Core Clock +40Mhz same for Memory Clock until I reached +120Mhz.
>
> The fan stays at 70% but after about 1:45min the GPU reaches 91°C on kombustor and then the fan becomes really loud probably at 100% ?
>
> Is there something I'm missing here ?
>
> SPECS :
>
> GPU : MSI GTX 970 4GD5T OC
> CPU : i7 3770k 3.5Ghz
> * mobo : MSI BIG BANG MARSHALL B3
>
> EDIT : If I put Core Clock at +40Mhz and run Kombustor same thing happens.
>
> EDIT 2 : If I put Core Clock at +0Mhz same thing happens.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eak72qo/

----

> Is there a way to make certain programs always launch as high priority in Windows 10?
>
> I ask because I tire of manually setting games to high in the task manager every time I launch them.
>
> Also, I've heard it's not optimal to set games to real-time. What's the reason for this?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eak7x9r/

----

> I got a wierd problem that occurs like once every 2 hours or so: Only the main screen (the other 2 stay normal) goes black/shuts off and then as it comes back takes a sec to readjust the resolution (the screen jumps up half a sec). This usually goes ok with many games (exept it, you know, goes black for a good 3 sec) and comes back exept for AC odyssey which crashes. I have reinstalled the gpu card (gtx 1070) drivers which doesn't change anything.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eaka5go/

----

User | Points
-----|-------
A_Neaunimes | 463
badillin | 432
Luminaria19 | 389
zakabog | 338
thatgermanperson | 314
Sayakai | 306
saldytuwas | 249
095179005 | 222
motionglitch | 207
Excal2 | 164


----

I am a bot - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to \/u\/eegras - About /u/PCMRBot

Hey guys, I built my pc a few years ago but i am now in college and am unable to ship it here. I am about to buy a mid tier prebuilt pc + peripherals for my dorm room. I just want to make sure everything is compatible and i have everything i need, i dont want to realize that i am missing some important cable or something is not compatible. Links below!

​

Ive already done a fair bit of research so i think im good to go, but just wanted to get some other opinions! FYI I am pretty set on buying everything from amazon. Thanks guys!

​

PC

ETHERNET CABLE

HEADSET

MOUSE

KEYBOARD

MONITOR

For a keyboard, the least offensive and good-for-most option for keyswitches are Cherry MX Browns.

I recommend the Logitech G610:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDYB8F6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Fe1dBbKKVVV4X


For mice, the only person whose opinion I trust is Zy (Rocket Jump Ninja) as he has remarkably detailed insight into a ton of popular mice.

Here is his updated list of top 40 mice:
http://www.rocketjumpninja.com/top-40/

If you have normal-sized hands and are a righty, I would recommend the Logitech G403 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KUAMCV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rh1dBbA5QCZB7

For large hands, the razer deathadder elite: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ri1dBb74YHXAK

For small hands, (or a super tight budget) I recommend the Logitech G203: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M26YUKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oj1dBb8512GR8

All of these mice have extremely accurate sensors and are cream of the crop as it stands right now. You likely won't need to ever upgrade unless they break.

$80 for a keyboard and $45 for a mouse may seem like a lot, but I promise you it is absolutely worth it. You can buy cheaper stuff now but I guarantee in a yea or two you'll be wanting an upgrade.

20. Modem: Buy it separately from your router. If you have 1Gbps (e.g. google fiber), then you need a DOCSIS 3.1 modem. Otherwise, you're find with DOCSIS 3.0 modems, which instantly cuts your costs in half. What matters is your number of down/up channels, which dictate your download/upload speeds. You'll need to look-up your ISPs supported modems, as many of them (e.g. Comcast) will mess with you, in that even though your modem may support insanely fast speeds, they won't let you use appropriately rated service packages with it and will auto-downgrade your speeds (or simply refuse offering you the service). This means getting "more than you need" is, in fact, "exactly what you need". Blame the ISPs. So, figure out your current/future download/upload speeds desired, then look-up your ISPs list of supported modems, then purchase the cheapest modem with the highest number of channels supporting it. You'll likely want to look at the DOCSIS 3.0 line-up from Motorola. The DOCSIS 3.0 24x8 will be plenty for anyone not on Google Fiber, frankly. Actually, it's almost google fiber speed rated, so even if you did use it, chances are you wouldn't even realize your mistake (a DOCSIS 3.1 32x8/16 is where fiber users should technically be at). Most would be fine with 16x4, but as the price difference is about $15, I'd consider the 24x8 a worthwhile future proofing, but my budget may differ from yours. And don't get roped into how DOCSIS 3.1 "beats out" DOCSIS 3.0 modems. The difference, if there even is any, is imperceptible. Also, if you use a cable company like Comcast, you'll also save on modem rental fees (as much as $20/mo) getting your own, so it will pay for itself. Also, make sure to check the error codes put out by your modem, after it has had a day to sit around and receive firmware updates (pushed by your ISP, unlike your router, which needs to be manually updated by you. #SecurityPSA). If they're high, or your numbers are experiencing unusual skew, then your coaxial cable (the wire connecting from your wall to modem) may have an issue, or there's an issue in your building's wiring (or neighborhood), building switch panel, or the wall-mount itself might be noisy. You can purchase a new coaxial cable and twist-on knob (I forget what this device is called) to lower noise going to/from your modem - the other problems require contacting your ISP.
    
    
21. Mouse: DPI adjust-ability can be nice for pro gaming, but what you should really consider is ergonomics, frankly. Ergonomics aside (this is why I personally use a trackball mouse, which seems to amaze a lot of gamers - mine uses index finger to move, so my left mouse button is operated by my thumb), you should consider the refresh rate. Much like your monitor has Hz, so, too, does your mouse. Settings of 500, 1k, and 2k are common to find. most pro gamers use 500, else 1k. The higher you go, the lower the input lag, thus you can react faster. You might be wondering then, "why don't most pros use 2k?" Two reasons. First, the 2k Hz are often buggy, overclocked, problematic messes, whereas most the 1k Hz are stable (manufacturer dependent). Second, when going beyond 500 Hz, like to 1k Hz, you will experience visual stroboscopic effects. Depending on your eyes (and your monitor), this might not bother you. That's why some pro gamers do end up using 1k Hz mice. To see for yourself what I mean, check out the relevant [testufo stroboscopic page](https://www.testufo.com/mousearrow#count=4&pps=1920). Personally, I do competitive FPS with a Logitech Marble Mouse, but after nearly 15 years, a new index-finger operated trackball with a scroll wheel, programmable buttons, and DPI adjuster has finally hit the market! So, I'll be trying out the Elecom mice. If you can't imagine playing with a non-thumb trackball mouse, I encourage you to give it a shot. Otherwise, checkout [mice pro FPS gamers use](https://on-winning.com/overwatch-pro-sensitivity-settings-setups-monitor-mouse-keyboard-headset/) (e.g. [Logitech G Pro Gaming](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JPOLLTK/), [BenQ Zowie EC2-B](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0771WQH6X/), or [Razer DathAdder Elite](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXC1QL0/)). Non-trackball mice aren't my area of expertise though, so there may be better choices out there to consider!
    
    
22. Microphone: [Audio-Technica's 2020 USB+](https://www.audio-technica.com/cms/wired_mics/5879a6ca22e5aa7e/index.html) cardiod is great, although it will pick-up a lot of ambient noise in a room that isn't acoustically cared for. It's relatively lightweight and fits well in most shock mounts and boom arms. It also sells with specially fitted wind shields (akin to a pop filter), which are much sleeker (less in your face), remove more p-losives (compared to most nylon and metal pop filters), and is far superior in removing ambient high frequency noises (e.g. ceiling fans and keyboard/mouse clicking) (on account of it being form-fitted. They're also the cheapest around \~$10. However, a similar priced microphone that sounds more neutral and picks-up less ambient, would be the Blue Yeti (and if you're thinking of getting the "Pro", then save your money and just get the AT 2020). It's a pretty good microphone in its own right, although getting a shock mount and wind shield to fit it is problematic (and expensive). It's also extremely heavy, so most (even >$100) boom arms can't properly support it. Lastly, there's the Blue Snowball. Its quality is pretty good and there are streamers out there using it, although many seek out the two aforementioned microphones. Nonetheless, it's still quite good, extremely lightweight, and runs the cheapest of all three. It's also very-very small compared to the others, so if you're skipping a boom arm, then it will be the best fit on your desk! Anyway, with respect to the Audio-Technica, a good shock mount (e.g. [Rode PSM1](https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PSM1--rode-psm1-microphone-shock-mount?))) and good boom arm (e.g. [Rode PSA1](https://www.amazon.com/RODE-Swivel-Mount-Studio-Microphone/dp/B001D7UYBO)) are good ideas, but expensive. And again, a good wind screen (e.g. [VocalBeat's acoustic fitted foam](https://www.amazon.com/AT2020-Foam-Windscreen-Vocalbeat-Microphone/dp/B01LZIDS2A/)).
    
    
23. Keyboard: Mechanical keyboards are my preference, given tactile feel/responsiveness. For silence, you'll want to consider Cherry Red Silent, red, and brown (in that order). For gaming (lighter pressure & shorter travel distance), you'll want to consider Cherry Speed Silver, Cherry Red Silent, red, and Cherry Black Silent (in that order). For those sharing both these priorities, it really just comes down to the Cherry Red Silent and Cherry Speed Silver. The former is 30% quieter than the standard red/brown, which makes it VERY quiet (it also is better for gaming). The Cherry Speed Silver is the best for gaming, EXCEPT it's so loud, that people have reported people over Discord complaining about hearing it. In my opinion, if it's distracting your teammates, then that's actual going to hurt your gameplay. As such, the Cherry Red Silent wins (being the next best "gaming" and most silent MX board). For more details, see [here](https://www.cherrymx.de/en/mx-original/mx-silent-red.html). As for the manufacturer, I've not yet finished researching the matter, although Ducky receives very high user reviews. As for Corsair (who first created the Cherry Red Silent MX's, in tandem with Cherry), their RGB backlit keyboards are a definite no-go. Why? Numerous user reviews state the software must be run on the PC for lighting effects to work. This wouldn't be so bad, except that numerous reviews have indicated it consumes \~500 MB of both system RAM and GPU memory! And while you can close out the program, this will disable all RGB lighting/effects!

Price History

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The razer deathadder elite is $5 more new here.

Razer DeathAdder Elite (95$ - 50$ = 45$)

https://www.amazon.ca/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-Mechanical-Ergonomic/dp/B01LXC1QL0/

Games: League of Legends, Not FPS games

Hand Preference: Right or Ambi

Budget: Thinking the most expensive I would go is a deathadder

Hand Size: 18

Grip: Palm

Weight: No Preference

Sensitivity: High

Additional Details: Kinda narrowed it down to the nixeus revel or a deathadder just based on a little research and I would like to know what you guys think.

https://www.amazon.com/Nixeus-Revel-Gaming-Mouse-Windows/dp/B01HHGHCH8

I am leaning towards the deathadder just due the popularity of it, so it's obviously tried and true. I would like to know what you guys think in respect to is it worth the cost. I also don't know what the difference is between these two deathadders, if someone could clarify that would be great. Are there different types like non chroma and chroma?

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-Multi-Color-Comfortable/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501878159&sr=1-4&keywords=razer+deathadder

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Chroma-Multi-Color-Comfortable/dp/B00MYTSDU4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501878159&sr=1-3&keywords=razer+deathadder

Razer DeathAdder Elite - Multi-Color Ergonomic Gaming Mouse - World's Most Precise Sensor - Comfortable Grip - The eSports Gaming Mouse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qPkJzbN9A2MRP a very popular choice and a very solid gaming mouse

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-Mechanical-Ergonomic/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=razer+deathadder&qid=1573954907&s=electronics&sr=1-1

Razer DeathAdder Elite Chroma Enabled RGB Ergonomic Gaming Mouse(Certified Refurbished) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFJWBFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nOQMBbZZ4714K

This is what comes up as amazons choice FOR ME. It may be different for you. Notice how it says certified refurbished.

Razer DeathAdder Elite: True 16,000 5G Optical Sensor - Razer Mechanical Mouse Switches (Up to 50 Million Clicks) - Ergonomic Form Factor - Esports Gaming Mouse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UPQMBbAAQYE37

This is the same mouse for the same price but new. Get this one

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-Multi-Color-Comfortable/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501284389&sr=1-3&keywords=razer

Well there's a whole bunch of stuff on mechanical keyboards at r/mechanicalkeyboards but if you're looking to buy something cheap and usable this aukey is only 40 bucks and has rgb lights and mechanical switches that should last a long time. I've had this keyboard before and it wasn't bad and didn't feel cheap but there is a difference between the switches in the aukey and the more premium cherry switches. For the mouse all I can recommend is something from the name brands razer deathadder is what i have and has work perfectly the last 3 years i've had it. otherwise Logitech g502 is a huge fan favorite and at 35 bucks is a steal, or Corsair M65 is a nice option but out of the 3 I've said with the logitech on sale I'd get that one.

Not according to Razer's website specs. DA Elite weighs in at 105g and Lancehead TE weighs in at 104g. Although they mention on the Lancehead TE's page (in parentheses) that they've excluded the cable from the weight measurement. Amazon has the DA Elite as 96g, so maybe their measurement is without the cable?

In any case having owned and used both in FPS games I can say the size and shape is a way more noticeable difference than their weight. I can confidently say that anyone who is used to flinging a DA Elite around in games should have no issues with the Lancehead TE when it comes to weight. I'd categorize both under the same weight class (medium heavy-ish).

Now the wireless model Lancehead on the other hand... that one is a beast when it comes to weight. According to Razer's specs it weighs 111g (excluding cable), which is a huge step from the DA Elite's 96g. Not my cup of tea personally, but maybe some gamers out there like their mouse extra heavy.

Yes Razer Death something Buy this if you think you will be uncomfortable with G502 or 402s shape . I myself dont feel comfortable with G502 .

> Razer deathadder elite

Hey, Thanks for the suggestion. Are you talking about this one: https://www.amazon.in/Razer-RZ01-02010100-R3A1-Death-Adder-Gaming/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=sr_1_1 ?

this is what me and my buddy use along with alot of pro gamers, its a little pricy but its still cheaper than a new xbox controller https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-Mechanical-Ergonomic/dp/B01LXC1QL0

> Ended up switching to the KPOE.

How do you like that mouse? I'm looking for an ergo mouse that's plastic and has good durability. I'm still trying to make the DeathAdder work for me but this is on my radar.


> Damn, sad to hear the DAE has that issue too.

Yeah, go to the DeathAdder Elites Amazon page and there are at least 5 or so user images with fallen off rubber grips. It has a lot to do with how hot your hands are and the humidity where you live.

I'm currently playing Apex Legends and was wondering if i should purchase the Logitech G203 or the Razer DeathAdder Elite. Would it really make that big of a difference spending the extra money? And if so, why?

The Razer: https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-Mechanical-Ergonomic/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Razer+DeathAdder+Elite&qid=1567703137&s=electronics&sr=1-1

The G203: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Prodigy-Wired-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B01M26YUKO/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=logitech+g203&qid=1567703180&s=electronics&sr=1-1

Mouse: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pcMJDb1NQ1318
Keyboard: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FFCN3DJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GbMJDb26XJMAT
Monitor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MSB4X9G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NaMJDbG5PHSZ2

Oh.

In that case:

• Eagletec KG010
  
• Poseidon Z RGB
  
• Devaraias K556 RGB
  
• Roccat Ryos MK Glow
  
• Azio MGK1-K
  
• Cougar 600k (Has $15 shipping, BTW, tried to stay $100 or less.)
  
  As for a mouse, I'd recommend:
  
  
• Rival 310
  
• [Razer Deathadder Elite] (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01LXC1QL0/?tag=pcp0f-20)
  
• Logitech G403
  
• Roccat Kone EMP
  
  EDIT: NVM, just realized you went ahead.

Don't sell yourself so short on peripherals, you can tell the difference between really cheap mice and keyboards and moderately priced ones. You don't have to go all out and spend 200 on a mouse and keyboard, but there's definitely options way better for 100 bucks all together. You'll see difference in build quality, design, ergonomics, durability, and reliability.

Mice:

• Logitech G502 $35
  
• Logitech G203 $25
  
• Logitech G403 $30
  
• Razer DeathAdder $45
  
• I personally have the Razer Basilisk $55, and I think its the best mouse I've ever owned. I personally like the sensitivity toggle on the side as well as the ergonomics. Additionally I like the Razer suit because you can customize the appearance, sensitivities, and macros for your peripherals and it saves to a online profile, so my profiles and appearances can be the same on my laptop and desktop.
  
  Keyboards:
  
  
• I really like Corsair and Razer keyboards. I definitely think getting a keyboard with mechanical switches is worth it, the responsiveness, feel, and durability is way higher than their membrane/rubber dome counterparts. Some people don't like the clack of a mechanical, but manufacturers have started offering quiet/silent switch options.
  
• You can make your own choice tho and here are a bunch of options under 50 and under 100

• Logitech G402 , G502
  
• Razer DeathAdder Elite, Basilisk Essential
  
• SteelSeries Rival 310
  
  ​
  
  
  
  

A decent pair of headphones for $25 if he doesn't already have some.

A better than most headset configuration (these headphones $16 + this mic $30) if he's got a "gaming" headset

A slightly heavy adjustable-weight mouse for $45

The mouse my GF bought me for $58

A nice clicky keyboard between $27 (no backlight) and $43 (rgb backlight)

Or as my GF did, you can demand that he build you a computer so you can play together! (added benefit of him getting to build something new which is my second favorite part)

Razer Cynosa Chroma: Spill-Resistant Design - Individually Backlit Keys with 16.8 Million Color Options - Ultra-Low Profile Switch - Gaming Keyboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KMZ4MX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4ZMACb6PNGRD7

Razer DeathAdder Elite: True 16,000 5G Optical Sensor - Razer Mechanical Mouse Switches (Up to 50 Million Clicks) - Ergonomic Form Factor - Esports Gaming Mouse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_w0MACb20HPR9K

(Idk if this is in your price range but here ya go)

How about that Razer Deathadder for $35?

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-Mechanical-Ergonomic/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=razer+deathadder&qid=1563211270&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=Razer+de&sr=8-2

There’s another for $40 (not discounted) and it says amazon choice but I literally can’t tell what’s different:

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Essential-Optical-Esports/dp/B07PN7YN4R/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=razer+deathadder&qid=1563211270&s=gateway&sprefix=Razer+de&sr=8-3

Which then makes the discount on the first one look like a hell of a lot less of a discount and I am confused.