Reddit reviews RGBSIGHT 40FT 18 Gauge Single Color LED Strip Extension Cable 18AWG 2pin 2 Color Red Black Stand Wire Conductor for LED Ribbon Lamp Tape Lighting (40 Feet per Spool)

I used a combo of parts purchased from amazon and from armacost's website. Here are links to what i picked up.

Lights (Amazon)

Wire (Amazon)

LED Quick Connects (Amazon)

Light Diffusing Trays (Amazon)

Dimmer Switch (Amazon)

Power Supply (Armacost Lighting Website)

I bought two of these: $9.99 - Spytec Hardwire Kit , and a pack of these $7.69 - Add-a-Circuits.

So basically, you pop 1 of those add a circuits into your fuse box. You pull a fuse, put that in its place. It has two slots for the original fuse you pulled as well as the 15 Amp fuse that comes with it for the Dash cam's power. Get that package I linked as it's only $8 and comes 5 of them and with the fuses you need. A single one on Amazon without fuse was $5-6. Then you crimp both red ends of the two hard wire kits to the add a fuse. Just insert the two red wire together and smash with pliers. Then attach the two black wires to a bolt on your car's frame (I found one inside the fuse box itself.)

Then pull the A-pillars on your car and run the long mini USB cables to where you want the cameras to live. Tuck the cables under pillar panels or into the headliner seems near the windows. I usually shove the wires into the headliner panels with a putty knife.

One note though, the spytec kits have very long USB cables, more than enough to run from your front fuse box through the A Pillars to the rearview mirror area. However they are not long enough to run from the fuse box across the entire length of the car, through the hatch area and onto the hatch back glass of my Veloster. So what I did was cut the USB power cable side, and solder in about 6' more black and red wire. I just had I laying around in my shop, but any cheap 18 AWG wire will do.

If you like, even though my install is finished, I could make a small movie clip about how it looks to help guide you.

This will probably work for you:

http://www.rfcontrolsystem.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=470&products_id=579

In the manual it doesn't fully tell you where to put the power leads. Hook it up like in the youtube video linked by the other guy. If the directions are backwards, reverse the motor. Red is + and black is -.

You will need a 12 V DC power supply. Often called wall warts or wall plugs. You can get one on Amazon, Fry's, Best Buy, etc. Here's the first one I found, I have no idea about whether it's a good brand or good price or anything. Read the reviews. It's a 2 Amp which exceeds the minimum I calculated earlier, but you could go for a 3 amp as well:

http://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Adapter-Regulated-Supply-Copper/dp/B00PJZQDDO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457316150&sr=1-1&keywords=12+V+wall+plug


You will need the little plug that take DC power as input and outputs a red and black wire. Here's an example:

http://www.amazon.com/5-5mm-2-1mm-Female-Connector-Camera/dp/B005CMP434/ref=cm_cr_dp_asin_lnk

You will also need wire to go from the plug to the board, and since there are multiple points on the board to connect to +12V and 0V, you will need jumper wires to spread to multiple terminals like she does in the video. So you need something like this.

Finally to cut and strip the insulation from the wires you will need something like this.

Recently I finished a 3S Rapidstrike build:

Motors

Microswitches

Some wire

a lipo battery

Also tools, like a soldering iron or a dremel (i don't have a recommendation here, i just use a hobby knife).

My stock flywheels recently gave up the ghost, so I replaced them with some Worker flywheels.

The only other thing that comes to mind right now are flywheel cages: consider one of these 3D printed ones from the Open Flywheel Project, or an Artifact Red cage + flywheels.

Well, if it must be electric, here's a rapid red formula.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/632gev/what_to_do_with_a_stryfe/dfs33lm/?utm_content=permalink&utm_medium=front&utm_source=reddit&utm_name=Nerf

Increase your amount of wire though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154MAECC/ref=cm_sw_r_apap_z1S2DpS1FlvVN

Maybe even skip the dummy battery if you can solder a wire to the electrical contacts instead. (And maybe cardboard wrapped in electrical tape if you need a spacer to keep the other batteries from moving around).

In theory you could get unit cost down to $25.33. With a one-time setup cost of $35.