Reddit Reddit reviews Scotch Extremely Strong Mounting Tape, 1-inch X 60-inches, Black, Holds up to 30 pounds, 1-Roll (414P)

We found 9 Reddit comments about Scotch Extremely Strong Mounting Tape, 1-inch X 60-inches, Black, Holds up to 30 pounds, 1-Roll (414P). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Scotch Extremely Strong Mounting Tape, 1-inch X 60-inches, Black, Holds up to 30 pounds, 1-Roll (414P)
Maximum Strength - Our strongest tape delivers a superior, conformable bond on contactIntended for indoor and outdoor useHolds up to 30 lb with 3M industrial strength adhesive. To hold 1 lb use 2". To hold 30 lb use 60"Application temperature 50°F to 100°FEasy-to-apply design with no mess or toolsUse instead of nails or screwsEnsure your surface is smooth, clean and dry for the best bondGreat for do-it-yourself projectsMade in the USA with Globally Sourced MaterialsDesigned For: Painted Drywall, Painted/Finished Wood, Metal, Acrylic, Smooth Stone, and Painted Concrete
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9 Reddit comments about Scotch Extremely Strong Mounting Tape, 1-inch X 60-inches, Black, Holds up to 30 pounds, 1-Roll (414P):

u/edgan · 8 pointsr/Quadcopter

I got an Eachine 250 racer about a month ago. It has been a lot of fun, but there are a lot of details. My next racer will probably be a smaller/lighter 180 frame.

For FPV goggles I have three ideas. One, is get the status quo Fatshark goggles at whatever level you can afford. Two, get the HeadPlay HD goggles I got. Three, get the Avegant Glyph, which has the really nice feature of letting you pop them up and down without a band. I do really like my HeadPlay HDs, but they are big and bulky. I haven't perfected how to adjust the straps to get them to stay on my head well.

Arms, managed to break one without breaking a prop.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016Y5U1JO/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Capacitors, they pop off very easily. I lost a capacitor at the same time I broke an arm. Or a hot glue gun, I Highly recommend putting hot glue over the caps next to each arm to help avoid the loss in the first place. You want a low temperature hot glue gun to not melt any plastic or traces. I consider the capacitor issue a design defect, but you can work around it with hot glue. The original revision seems to have lacked the capacitors, from pictures I have seen online.

Capacitors for Eachine 250 racer:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W8YYMZA/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Youtube video exampling how to solder them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLYVZUpL0K0

Get a Taranis X9D Plus. It is a great transmitter. Also get a X4R-SB receiver, and use SBUS. The D4R won't let you control the lights too, because it can't do PPM and PWM at the same time. You can control them with the X4R-SB, SBUS+PWM. SBUS has great latency, 5-10ms. I was recently talking to a sponsored racer who told me that PPM, which is supposed to be 27ms with the D4R, is really more like 100ms. It averages the four last frames together. This link includes a case and X8R, which I think will work as well as the X4R, but you should do the research. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014IYSXL6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5

To do SBUS+PWM, requires a special bind procedure. You want channels 1-8 as SBUS, and 9+ as PWM. The most relevant part is "jump S1&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 or jump S2&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 (No telemetry)" Here is a link that talks about it.

http://www.frsky-rc.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6793

Small tie wraps like the ones already on the arms to hold the ESCs. You break an arm, and you will need to replace the tie wrap.

Soldering iron, solder, etc, because you have to desolder the ESC from the motor to replace an arm, and then resolder it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BRC2XU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Qtips and rubbing alcohol for cleaning. Mix the alcohol 50/50 with water. The flying field was muddy after lots of rain.

Carrying case of some kind. You don't want it banged around in transport, and same with the transmitter. It is best to get the X9D with the case, because people price gouge on the case stand alone.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABQS7YI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Batteries, you can burn through them very fast. But watch out for their height. I bought some of the new "Graphene" 4S batteries, and they are really too tall to fit. Some people remove the back LEDs to make battery installation easier.

Battery charging/carrying bags to help with uncontrolled fires started by batteries. I have two, one for charging, and one for carrying.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HTH78W/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A battery charger if you want to use 4S batteries. The included charger is 2S/3S only. I have a Hi-tech X1 which will only charge one battery at a time. You can also get the X4 which will do four at once.

Battery charger for 4S batteries:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LH3392/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XT60 banana plug cable for charging with the above charger:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XBSBYCG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A V shaped antenna mount to get the receiver antennas up in the air. When over head the carbon fiber body blocks the signal well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WV04P62/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A voltage monitor so you know to land when your battery voltage is low. The video signal includes the battery voltage as part of the OSD, but I prefer LoS while learning to fly. It lets me keep an eye on where I am in relation to trees. On the other hand I have yet to find a good place to mount a voltage monitor. With the length of the balance cable on batteries you are likely going to need a balance cable extension for 3S and another for 4S.

Voltage monitor:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EXPPF80/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3S balance cable extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XP4IO88/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4S balance cable extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JBP1RGG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Double sided tape to mount things on the top of the body, like the antenna mount and receiver.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NP1JQC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Small x-acto knife to help remove the double sided tape.

Electrical tape to tape down wires for lights and receiver.

Size 2.0 hex wrench for the frame screws. It will be needed to replace arms.

Scale that can measure grams. You want to knowing and control weight.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010HKEDPK/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sunglasses to avoid problems seeing on sunny days. Lets say you are flying LoS, and look into the direction of the sun. You can't see the quad well enough to control it, because of glare from the sun.

ESC flashing adapters to change/upgrade the firmware. I am not sure these are the right ones for the ESCs on the Eachine. I think they are, but I haven't tried it yet.

Atmel socket flashing tool:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V2W467I/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Atmel USB programmer:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051SRZWC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB cable to use with transmitters and simulators. It is best to learn the basics in a sim, instead of replacing lots of parts.

USB cable for simulators:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DFDTU9G/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Old post of mine on learning in a simulator:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3zr8o0/cheap_fpv_acro_simulator_with_real_transmitters/

Be sure to set a fail-safe, which is very easy with the Taranis. I had a fly away with my first Eachine, because of a defective Spektrum DX6 and lack of fail-safe. After that I switched to the Taranis, which doesn't cost much more and has way more capacity.

u/beth6han · 5 pointsr/Dashcam

You may be in luck and get the one with black tape that they have started to use.

Anyway, it is available at Walmart, look for Scotch Brand Double- sided Tape Number 414P

or here: https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-414-DC-Extreme-Mounting/dp/B009NP1JQC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474296749&sr=8-1&keywords=Black+3M+double+sided+tape

u/reclinerhead · 2 pointsr/Audi

OK don't laugh... But this was from a recommendation in Audizine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NP1JQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I double'd up the tape and squished the thing in there. It's been rock solid since summer, and never budges even when I snag it while washing.

u/Retrosmith · 2 pointsr/CableManagement

Oh yeah. Just about any outdoor carpet tape will do the job but this is about the strongest I've found. It's also thick and spongy so it will form to fill any small voids in whatever you're securing. Be advised it's sticky enough that it's not the easiest to work with though, difficult to get the plastic backing off but it's very strong.

I usually use Duck brand for applications that don't require that much adhesive strength just because it's a lot easier to work with and a lot cheaper.

u/AeonStrike · 1 pointr/AskBattlestations

I agree! I got the same light strips and they peeled off after 2 weeks.
I bought this and remounted the strips, and it seems to work great after 3 months/

u/LexusBrian400 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I actually have it mounted with 3M Outdoor Extreme Double Sided Tape - 10lb

That stuff is amazing. It holds strong, but yet it breaks away on impact leaving all my gear intact. I've crashed it plenty times, the whole vtx just detaches from the frame.

u/NYSenseOfHumor · 1 pointr/Judaism

This Scotch mounting tape is really strong, probably as strong as what the Mezuzah came with.

It's also just good to have around the house/dorm.

u/cmnthom · 1 pointr/CX5

I use this, affixed with this on the left of the panel with the BSM, TPMS, TCS etc controls, which is between driver door and steering wheel. You may have more options than I, and thus more buttons. But I like this setup because it's conspicuous.