Reddit reviews Woods 166SW Clamp Lamp with 10 Inch Reflector and Bulb Guard 300-Watt Bulb, Insulated Porcelain Socket, Versatile Lamp Clamp, Compatible with Higher Watt Bulbs, Portable Light Source, 6 Foot Cord

Mandy,

Saying "incandescent light" also includes halogens and other light types that are going to produce a lot of UVa/b on their own. (depending if they're using quartz crystal and no glass)
I wanted to have a simple write up on this about a year ago.. but it's a rabbit hole.

There's a lot of ground to cover and it's all going to be freaking confusing to people that just want a simple answer. So I'm dying to KISS it (Keep It Simple Stupid) and just point them to the tungsten light bulbs.

The OP's temps are way too high. Even for a veiled it's too much and you're asking for a burn along the back because they're right above the perches. That red IR light is just going to be problems as they're too intense and the hatchlings don't recognize when they're being burned very well.

Also the perches they do have are completely inadequate (bird ladders again?!?)

Use the 1000 bulbs direct link for the old fashioned tungsten lights

Also for the winter a 100 watt might be required to set the ambient temps. So we have to find out what they have their thermostats set at. I think that 65ºF is a good night temp for a home... that will work for the hatchlings. If the thermostat is set at that temp, then they don't need a Red IR light.

ymmv.

For a hatchling and a new inexperienced keeper you might have to get multiple heat sources in there to keep the interior at 70- 75ºF and a basking spot at 80ºF I'd rather have two 60 watt bulbs vs a single 120 that might be too strong.

these can be paired with a broad (10.5") reflective dome... or a chicken brooder

so that there's a wide cone of light/heat that's produced and it'll allow the cham to find it's place in the gradient where it's comfortable.

Not an electrician, but the answer is going to be no, you shouldnt even attempt it.

I mean you could rewire it with lower guage wire and replace the fixture, to get it rated for 250w but then you also need to think about the paint and shit that's around the light getting hot.

For ~10 bucks you can buy one:

Woods Clamp Lamp with 10 Inch Reflector And Bulb Guard (300 Watt Bulb, 6 Foot Cord) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XV8QOU

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XV8QOU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0066L0ZRU/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1411770233&sr=1&keywords=heat+lamp

Best $30 I've spent on 3d printing accessories. Easier than an enclosure and totally eliminates splitting / delimitation / warping issues I was having.

http://i.imgur.com/aM3BCbE.jpg

• I started with 4, but you could start with 1 and see how it affects one spot.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01855YCXM
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XV8QOU
  
  
• I don't know how much whole body hyperthermia is affecting my skin vs just the direct IR light. So you might not need to follow the rather strenuous path I've been travelling (102 degrees every day for ~20+ minutes, ~40-50 minutes under the lamps total), just to treat the skin, which quickly gets a lot hotter than my oral temp. You might not even need to get a fever to treat skin.
  
  Check out my post history for more info + also academic journal articles. AMA if you can't find answers.

Sorry this took so long, I knew I was going to write a novel.

Microchipping would be good, but the same transportation issues that stand in the way of getting him microchipped are REALLY going to stand in the way of anyone who finds him to get him scanned. And while YOU know how to handle him, 98% of people who are going to come across him if he gets out are unlikely to know what to do. With just a microchip, you also run the risk of all the non-tort informed people out there (which is most people), either not touching him at all because they're afraid of him, picking him up and setting him "free" somewhere rural, taking him to a lake because they think he's a turtle, or trying to pick him up but injuring him in the process. In my opinion, you might want to consider something that will let people know how to contact you ASAP without even touching him.

I have this "license plate" on mine. It was recommended by our vet who also owns sulcatas, as well as an old college friend of mine who is a biologist and tags sea turtles.

It's just a pet tag from PetSmart with his name and my phone number attached with two-part marine epoxy. The Loctite brand you can find at Lowe's. As long as it's not on one of the scute borders, it won't effect his growth. It stays put after 5 minutes, but I put a piece of painter's tape over it for the 24 hours it takes to fully cure. It has been securely attached for 5 years now.

55 degrees is my go-to boundary temp as well. The cold-night set up I had when he was the size of yours was super simple because the first chill took me by surprise, so necessity was the mother of invention that afternoon. It looked a bit ghetto and I'm almost embarrassed to admit it, but it worked so well (and we don't need it too often here in CFL) I actually kept it this way for years.

So here's the breakdown:
My cousin is a personal trainer and was living with me at the time, so I snagged one of his diy dip bars that looked just like one of these. We're talking less than $10 worth of PVC from Home Depot. I put it against the back of my house where there was covering from the eaves and no wind. Then I stacked cinder blocks, 2 or 3 on each side, and hung a clamp light from the bar. The cinder blocks would warm up a bit and really help keep the heat where it needed to be. I used a regular infrared reptile heat bulb, 100w or 150w. Now, I know there's mixed opinions out there on the red bulbs because torts can see some of the red visible light they emit and this can wreak havoc on their circadian rhythm IF USED REGULARLY. Indoors a CHE is recommended, of course, but that just wasn't putting out enough heat. And since moving outside it's only needed a dozen or so nights a year, plus he gets plenty of natural light and exercise as soon as the sun comes up, so I'm really not worried about it throwing off his rhythm. Prepare yourself, here's an extremely not-to-scale and poorly done drawing, but I think you get the drift. I was so paranoid the first couple nights, I put a thermometer right on the top of his shell as he slept and probably checked it a million times. I was more afraid he'd get burned or too hot than anything else, and I had to raise the light, but after that it kept him around a cozy 65-70 degrees all night.

I think the combination of the infrared light and the way the blocks worked to insulate the heat were the key, so I'm sure any variation of that would work. Just something to think about while you're working out your set up. Good luck! I'm curious as to what you end up figuring out! Remember, around here you really only need to bring the temp up by 15-20 degrees at the most to keep him at 55+, so don't worry about it too much!

Also, do you have a picture of the burrow with a hinged lid? That sounds ingenious! I wonder if somethingthat would make my dinosaur stop digging already!