First, I'm upvoting because you're not the boss of me.
Second, get a Toms algae scraper. Long handle keeps your hands dry and it comes with a gravel rake, blade scraper and standard scrubber.
Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002DVWNI6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1414216483&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40

Prices do vary. I got the 34" one for $11

a lot of people in the hobby use these: http://www.amazon.com/Python-Spill-Aquarium-Gravel-24-Inch/dp/B004PBHX4G


I dont know if this is the "sink siphon method" you're talking about, but I lose almost no water with this method. it allows you to go directly from your sink to the tank (and the opposite). Just make sure the temperature is pretty close to the tank, and you add Seachem Prime or whatever tap water treatment you use directly to the tank before adding the water. As far as reducing flow you can either purchase a smaller python tube, kink the line of a larger one, or use some form of displacement (like a plate or hand) between the tube and water.

Yes, you can do a fish-in cycle with a betta! It is not ideal, but he should be fine as long as you do your proper water maintenance. Get yourself a liquid (not paper) water testing kit and do daily water tests for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate and perform a partial water change (~20% or so) whenever they are detectable. This will likely be a few times a week. As your nitrifying bacteria establish, you'll be able to go for longer periods of time without doing those water changes. When fully cycled, you should do just weekly partial water changes. Seachem Prime is a great brand of water conditioner, as it's extremely concentrated (a drop or two will treat a gallon of water) and has the added benefit of detoxifying ammonia for 24 hours.

If you don't have one yet, a gravel vacuum is your best friend for water changes. Just have a bucket or something to drain the water into.

I'm not sure what kind of filter the kit comes with, but I recommend scrapping cartridges and filling the filter with good biological media (like aquarium sponge, filter floss, ceramic noodles). These media give a huge amount of surface area for your cycling bacteria to colonize, and never need to be replaced. You may also want to get a pre-filter sponge to slip over the intake to protect his fins from getting sucked in.

It will be okay! You can do it!

Here's what you'll need:

• 5+ gallon tank with a lid. You can go for one of the nicer-looking (but more expensive ones) or just a plain ol' tank from any pet store. Lids are necessary because bettas are jumpy by nature.
  
  
• Heater. Bettas are tropical fish so you need something that can keep the water at around 78ºF. I'd really reccomend an adjustable one because A) you can do extra fine-tuning and B) you can bump the temperature up if you need to (if the room gets extra cold, or if your betta gets stick, etc). Here's what I use in my 5.5g.
  
  
• Thermometer. Nothing fancy, but you need something so you can know what the temperature is. Get an internal one instead of the ones that stick on the front of the glass (those aren't very accurate). Again, you can find them at any pet store for a couple bucks.
  
  
• Filter. Filters are a must because they house the bacteria that maintain a tank's cycle (preventing your fish from getting poisoned). I would reccomend either reading up on the nitrogen cycle yourself and teaching your friend or giving them a link to a guide, since if they've got the fish in a little container they probably know nothing about it. An air pump + sponge filter is a cheap way to do it but as long as you can get a filter that makes less of a current you're good. Bettas (especially ones with long heavy fins) don't like fast flowing water. I've got this one in my 5.5g. The fact that it's adjustable is super convenient.
  
  
• Substrate. Looks nice, add extra surface area for more bacteria to grow, A+. You can get either gravel or sand. If you want to go cheap, regular pool filter sand or black diamond blasting sand will get you a ton for a few bucks.
  
  
• Decor. Bettas appreciate densely planted/decorated tanks with lots of hiding places. Make sure anything you get isn't rough/sharp enough to snag panty hose, because that means it'll also tear betta fins. That means no coarse decorations, plastic plants, etc. Silk plants are popular, and mugs are an easy way to add a little cave.
  
  
• Gravel vac. When you're doing water changes you need a gravel vacuum to clean down in the gravel. I've found that this one is a great size for my 5.5g. Others I've tried pull out water too fast to get a good cleaning in before you've removed the water you need to. She'll probably need some container to put the water into as well. I just use a plastic 1-gallon pitcher for my 5.5.
  
  
• Test kit. Back to cycling, you need to have a test kit so you can know the pH, concentration of ammonia, concentration of nitrite, and concentration of nitrate in the tank. The API freshwater master test kit is far and away the most popular since it provides all four. Whatever you get, go for the liquid kits rather than the strips because strips aren't very accurate.
  
  
• Betta food, but she probably already has that. Although if she's got flakes it'd be a good idea to move her over to pellets, since flakes make the water a lot dirtier. Also I would reccomend you advise her on how much she should be feeding her betta. They're little piggies and will eat themselves sick if you let them, so people who don't research betta care are prone to overfeeding.
  
  
• Water conditioner. Water conditioner removes chlorine from tap water so fish can live in it. Oftentimes you'll see betta-specific water conditioner at stores, but this is just a scam that preys on folks who don't know better. It's overpriced, comes in tiny bottles, and is watered down. At 1/10 mL per gallon, a single bottle of Prime for instance is way cheaper and will last way longer. I'd reccomend you also get a 1mL syringe for easy dosing. Whenever I want one I pick one up from my school's chemistry stockroom for like 25 cents.

Sometimes you have to get your elbows wet. Or get a magnetic scrubber.

First-timer in over his head here. Could use an assist with setup. The ultimate goal is setting up something my (soon-to-be) 2 year old daughter will enjoy watching.

Planning on purchasing:

Tank & Stand: Aqueon 45G tank ensemble - $250

Light: LED - Included with tank

Filter: MarineLand Penguin 200 Power Wheel - $21

Heater: Orlushy Submersible Aquarium Heater 150W - $18

Python: Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System - $40, 24 inch adapter - $10, [hook] (https://smile.amazon.com/Python-Spill-Aquarium-Gravel-24-Inch/dp/B004PBHX4G/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2/146-3053739-1242457?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004PBHX4G&pd_rd_r=42a7c2bc-877d-414d-b0c9-2960fa629e40&pd_rd_w=q7tkK&pd_rd_wg=fjx36&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW&psc=1&refRID=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW) - $20, and this adapter for my non-threaded faucet - $12

Conditioner: [API Water Conditioner] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $7

Bacteria: [API Quick Start] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $4

Test Kits: [API 5-in-1 Test Strips] (https://smile.amazon.com/5-IN-1-AQ-Test-Strips-100CT/dp/B077YS7Y4Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VPPBFJ1NJSMG&keywords=api%2Btest%2Bkit&qid=1567987538&s=gateway&sprefix=api%2Btest%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3&th=1) - $26

That takes me up to $408. That leaves me about $100-150 in the budget my wife gave me to get decorations and the fish themselves. (It was supposed to be $500, but we always go slightly over budget)

Any recommendations on large and colorful fish that could attract and keep a toddler's attention? Preferably peaceful.

Any other recommended tweaks to the build? I haven't purchased anything yet, so I'm willing to completely scrap this and start over if somebody has a better idea of how to use the money.

I had a big gap in fish keeping and dug up the ol ten from the basement myself at one point. There is a lot of info avail to you at the top of the Sub, in the Wiki. so, here's a few things I can share that you had questions about:

• So, your tank isn't cycled if it has any ammonia or NitrItes (there should be NitrAtes/always keep below about 30 ppm)
  
• A pleco needs a larger tank and way more filtration than you have unfortunately. Here's their profile I think it may be a 20 high (?) as the minimum, not sure several inches longer than a 10 in any case. And since they eat all day long, they poop all day long, so are high bioload fish/messy/big poopers... you might want to think about rehoming him (after he eats the fungus on the wood lol--completely normal and goes away btw). He makes your tank overstocked. You can punch everything in Aqadvisor.com and see what it gives you for stocking but make sure to look at the Filtration Capacity Percentage which is probably the most important thing. Keep as high as you can to help your tank parameters be as healthy as possible. I try to keep mine at 200% if I can depending on the tank.
  
• Don't be scared of real plants. I have sand too. No problem. Get a pair of the long aquascaping tongs. I wouldn't even bother with the other tools frankly, but if you want to, get a set like this (I did research they are great and don't rust). But, I did just order this because I broke one of my tongs after years of abuse lol. If your light is full spectrum, get whatever plants you like for the most part, but if it's not, get low light plants like Sagittaria subulata, Anubias, Java Fern. You can also add API root tabs to the sand if you ever need to or Seachem Flourish for water column feeders as a fertilizer.
  
  I totally just realized I read your post wrong. You don't already have the Betta and Neon Tetras. In that case, I would skip the neon tetras as they tend to have a lot of problems probably because they are sooo popular and in demand they get overbred/inbred, poor husbandry in breeding practices, etc. I don't know.
  
  
• The size of the tank has nothing to do with whether a Betta is laid back or not. Each Betta has a different temperament. And like the other person said, you do have to be prepared to rehome either the Betta or the fish you chose to home with him becuase it does not always work. IF you decide to do a Betta with ANYthing else in the tank add the Betta last so he doesn't see them as invading his space. But, the only fish that I would give it a try with in a 10 gallon would be Ember Tetras really. You could do 6 of them and after they've been acclimated and intro'd to the tank, then do the same with the Betta.
  
• Also until you move out the pleco, go grab a bottle of Seachem Stability and add it to the tank for a week since you have a fish in there already. If you skipped the other fish, you might be able to keep him and just have the Betta, but you'd have to double check on that first. Look up on the profile I gave you for SF as it's the most reliable site for that type of info.
  
  Welcome back and good luck!

Depends on what shrimp you want to keep, some of them require specific setup, like soft water Caridina (crystal shrimp and bees) and hard water Caridina (Sulawesi shrimp). "Base" will be very different for each of them. The rest of questions can be answered only after you decide on what kind of shrimp to keep.

Here are some of their photos and requirements. More on ShrimpFever website, or of any other supplier.

Next, make sure that you water is suitable for chosen kind of shrimp. Test or do online search for name of your city and water analysis. Or maybe you are already prepared to make optimal for them artificial RO based water.

Minimal tank setup: tank (not kit), filter (sponge is good), heater only if your room is cold in the winter, thermometer, light for plants, plants, a lot of hiding places for molted shrimp and babies (could be clumps of plants, wood, shrimp shelters). Substrate is species specific.

Sponge filter: T-shaped is my preferred kind. It should be connected to air pump by airline tubing, with check valve and double air valve to regulate intensity of air flow. Do amazon search for each of them, you will see how they look like. If power filter (=HOB), intake protector will be necessary for small shrimp and babies, sponge or stainless steel cylinder, pantyhose should work too.

If you will need heater, preset to 78F heater could be used only for neocaridina (cherries) and ghosts, but not for cold water caridina. Adjustable heaters could not keep temperature low enough, then external temperature controller (like Inkbird) could be needed. 50W should be enough.

Plants are up to you, this is very personal. I prefer the easiest way, low light low tech plated tanks mostly moss based (Christmas moss, weeping moss, spiky moss, fontinalis, Marimo moss ball, round pellia (actually liverwort, subwassertag or susswassertang), mini pellia. Do image search for moss tank to see moss trees, walls, hills, logs. Rootless plants do not require substrate at all.

Light is kind of plants specific, there are low light setups, fast and easy, and high light setups with fertilization schedule and CO2 dosing. Planted Tank subreddit can say what light fixture would be good for your tank and plants, if your price range. I'm using Nicrew and for other tanks, desktop lamps with daylight CFL. You will need tank cover (lid) for this kind of lights and to reduce evaporation. $5 timer is good enough, but you can ask for a better solution at Planted Tank.

Reliable online stores for livestock: you should name the country. ShrimpFever should be of no help if you are not in Canada.

Food sources for shrimp: depends on the kind of shrimp.

• Dwarf shrimp (cherry, crystals) will graze on the biofilm on the driftwood, glass, sponge filter, plants, with additional feeding by blanched or weighed raw vegetables (zucchini, cucumber, baby carrots, broccoli and so on, preferably low in sugar and holding shape well), leaf litter (do search for this and shrimp), and commercial food (you can see examples on ShrimpFever and find the same in your country). Mineral supplement helps with molting and color. Using feeding dish (like small Petri dish) helps to control pollution, this is even better. More about feeding them is in Shrimp Tank search.
  
  
• Ghost shrimp: anything you give them, especially live black worms, or frozen worms, will be appreciated. Variety and what doesn't pollute tank much.
  
  
• Amano and fan shrimp, no experience.
  
  Maintenance tools: if you will have substrate, gravel cleaner, sized to your tank, bucket, glass scraper.
  
  Tests: API GH/KH test kit; ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for cycling tank; pH just in case, TDS meter is helpful.
  
  Good to have: a piece of clear acrylic tubing for picking up uneaten food, this shrimp net. Scissors are up to you, I'm pulling apart my mosses by hands.

Fill it with water and a little vinegar (tap water, no need for salt) and let it sit for a day or two. Use a scraper like this guy and scrape it while it's still full. Works great for me.

Okay...so there is a lot wrong here. I'll try to make it simple as to not overload you with information, and if you have further questions, please let me know and I'll expand.

1. Check the seals and assure that the tank is not leaking or going to leak. A tank in this shape is high risk. Bubbles in the silicon joints are a bad sign. Actual leaks are a worse sign.
   
   
2. The tank needs to be cleaned. The filter, filter material (DO NOT THROW OUT! RINSE AND SQUEEZE IN BUCKET OF TANK WATER NOT TAP WATER), hood, and probably under the substrate should be cleaned. The walls should be scrubbed of algae and grime. If you do not wish to totally empty the tank and clean by hand, i recommend scrubbing the glass with a clean sponge or aquarium cleaning brush. I recommend soaking the filter parts in tap water and cleaning with a sponge. As for the substrate (the gravel), you will need a siphon/aquarium vacuum to get under it. There is bound to be loads of fish poo and particulates. The hood can be cleaned with wet paper towels or sponges.
   
   
3. A series of water changes should be performed. It is tempting to do a huge one, but depending on how bad the tank is, a series of 10-20% changes may be the safest route. You will need to buy a test kit (i recommend the API kit) to check the parameters. The levels you absolutely need to know: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph.
   
   I've never kept an oscar before, but i believe ~7.2-7.6 ph is optimal. For all fish, 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrites, and probably 0-30ppm nitrates are good numbers. Eventually these will be stable and you will only need to do probably one 25% change weekly. This takes about 10-30 minutes depending on your tools and proximity to a water source.
   
   
   I would say this is a 75g, but honestly, i suck at guessing. Dimensions would clear it right up. The two plecos will eventually outgrow it, and may have already. They will need most likely a 120g+ tank. The oscar should be happy here. Absolutely do not pay someone to clean and maintain the tank. It is a lot of work up front, but it will be so much cheaper and easier for you. I have 3 tanks (2.5g, 20g, and 75g) and i spend maybe 40 minutes a week total. I spend 20 minutes a week on my 75 and it is mostly water changes.
   
   
   
   Edit:
   
   In addition, the plecos probably need driftwood or something equivalent to suck on to. Currently the atat is the only thing they have in the tank and that is not making them happy.
   
   Things you must buy bare minimum to ensure livable water quality:
   
   
4. Water parameter testing kit. I strongly recommend the API master test kit
   
   
5. SeaChem Prime is by a long shot the best water conditioner. Removes chlorine, and temporarily detoxifies ammonia and nitrites for up to 48hrs.
   
   
6. Siphon for cleaning and removing water for changes. Most will work, but you need a fairly large one for a tank this size. This one will be fine.

I use this to disinfect my QT/Hospital Tanks and Equipment - https://www.amazon.com/Jungle-NL080-8-4-Cleaner-8-Ounce-236-ml/dp/B0002563C2

I fill the tank with water then mix a capful (around 5ml or 1 teaspoon) per gallon. Then soak all the equipment inside the tank. After an hour or two, I take out the filter and let it run with the netsoak(ed) water in the tank.

Some use, 1 part Bleach with 19 parts water. But remember to de-chlorinate and wash everything thoroughly.

1. Substrate is just a fancy name for the gravel/sand/dirt/some combo at the bottom of the tank. Though I think they mainly use substrate vice gravel to describe stuff that you have live plants in. As for vacuuming it they sell siphon [vacuums] (http://www.amazon.com/Lees-Large-Economy-Gravel-Vacuum/dp/B003JVGHO0/ref=sr_1_14?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1373493240&sr=1-14&keywords=aquarium+vacuum) you start a siphon and use the larger end to vacuum up the gunk from your substrate.
   
   
2. Fishless cycling is better for the fish and therefore the easier method. You can do fish in cycling in a pinch but it's stressful for the fish and can cause illness/death. If you have to do this try and get some water and/or filter media from an established tank that already has a bacteria colony to jump start the process. As for how it happens in fishless cycling see the sidebar though the basic gist is that those bacteria (like yeast bacteria and other beneficial bacteria) occur naturally in small quantities so if you add a food source for them they will build up to the point they can handle the waste from your fish.
   
   
3. Um the vacuum might work if it's well rooted and not too delicate but I mean if you have live plants, a good filter, good stocking, and do appropriate water changes it shouldn't be too big of a deal other than the whole bad aesthetics of having poop on your plant.
   

For bottled water, read label: mineral water could be 40 ppm TDS (soft water) and 300 ppm TDS (I wouldn't put betta there without diluting it to 100-150 ppm TDS with distilled water).

If use distilled water, mineral content has to be restored by using GH/KH+ additive, and you have to have either GH test or TDS meter for making concentration right.

There are mechanized gravel cleaners, 2 major versions: with a bag or thick with a plastic mesh. Wioth a bag is better, you can make micron pad or filter floss in a bag fine filtration, and cleaned from floating particles water will be returned to the tank. There are different brands of the same.

For dissolved organics, floating plants, Purigen and activated carbon, that should be changed every two weeks. If you have high phosphates, phosphate remover. For the rest, only water changes.

Time for a good scraper

@OP

"Adult" usually means 20 cm and up.

I would just feed them two worms each, daily, until their belly is as wide as their head (without the gills). Then proceed with one. Too much food will kill them over time, too (fat liver).
Worms have to be cut if they are longer than the Axos neck to cloaka (between their hind legs).
If they eat they at least aren't dying sick.

Brine shrimp and blood worms (red fly larvae) are like candy for Axos over 10-15cm and don't have enough nutrients. Also: messy.

I use one like this for cleaning out the bombs or to suck off water:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RBLMJ56

Please add a comment with some pictures (link to imgur album) of the tank and the animals. If there is equipment you don't know, a pic of it will let us help with that, too.
Also provide us with water values (nitrites/nitrates, ammonia, temp, pH, ...)
We will gladly help you help the Axos, but we need your help to help. :D

And I dunno about conditioners, but the water needs to be at least dechlored when you live in the US or other countries that chlor their water.
In some european countries like Germany you usually can simply add tab water.
For now, I would fill the tank up and afterwards change 50%.

If you want to give them away, I'd rather find a private person or breeder via small ads.

Caudata.org is the site most people here seem to suggest for more detailed info.
Otherwise you can simply ask whatever you need here.

Here ya go.

Flipper Aquarium Algae Magnet Cleaner with Two Blades https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ELIQ4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_y16yzbFXXNT59

I have an offbrand of this

Patience and a very small net.

Just removing water is fine. If you like you can purchase a siphon to help remove some waste from the gravel.
As for cleaning the sides, I find these very useful.

For a 3 gallon tank I would definitely do 20-30% water changes twice a week. I would not add any more fish, aside from maybe a snail. Adding any more fish would overstock your tank, causing it to get dirty faster and upping the chances of illnesses.


No. Cycling takes at least a few weeks. (read the article I posted in an earlier comment) You can keep track of where it is in the cycling process by doing daily water parameters tests. Here is a really good kit.

AmazonSmile Link: Jungle NL080-8-4 Net Soak Net Cleaner, 8-Ounce, 236-ml

^Use AmazonSmile to donate 0.5% of your purchase price to a charity of your choice at no extra cost to you.

I have a kit similar to this, I think I got the 4 tools for $10 somehow.

Tweezers, both large and small, are critical for planting.

Curved scissors help tremendously.

Flexible pipe cleaner for cleaning out all fittings, pipes, filters. Also is great for shooing fish / shrimp out of corners without hurting them.

If you’re lucky enough to live on the west coast, I really recommend a visit to TAP Plastics- they have all the scrapers, tiny containers, large containers, needles, vials, boxes, and spray bottles that you could ever need. Also, every piece is like 37 cents.

I just shared this in another thread. Electric gravel cleaner (also pumps water for water changes). This has been a lifesaver.

Skip the old siphon. This thing filters the debris out and leaves the water, so you can clean whenever you want and not have to do a water change simply because you wanted to clean.

Get the right size hose for the thing (since they don't give you the right size hose.....) And you can siphon your water in or out easily as well.

You want the red one - it's the only one that has good reviews and it's what I use.

Edit: by siphon your water out, I mean this thing can easily empty half my 60 gallon tank in like 7 minutes since it's electric with it's own impeller.

You can also look into cheaper ones where you pour the water into a 5-gallon bucket, but this is totally worth the money. 5 gallon bucket is pretty heavy and it is hard to refill your tank imo.

This is an absolute life saver in situations like this.

Gravel vac for me, too, but this one:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GBT525Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

:( All the sand falls back into place for me. Maybe mine is less strong; it has a pump insert http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Aquarium-Cleaner-10-Inch/dp/B004RK405A?ie=UTF8&keywords=aquarium%20siphon&qid=1463540082&ref_=sr_1_9&s=digital-text&sr=8-9 like this one but mine is super cheap.

My suction is also wider, so probably slower.

this is what I am using now:

https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Aquarium-Cleaner-16-Inch/dp/B004RK191S

can you link something like you are describing? this thing just pulls out too much water with the crud. I was thinking about using some kind of filter in my dump bucket to catch all the poop and crud coming up through the siphon, leaving only "clean" dirty water than came out of the tank.

Honestly, it's going to be kind of a pain to work in. I have a 29 gallon out of necessity (I didn't have space available for anything with a larger footprint) and often wish it was shallower.

They make gravel vacuums with longer rigid sections and in a more general sense, you can get tools designed for most of the work you'd do on any other tank, in larger/longer versions.

Get a step stool so you're not reaching over the tank and back down into it.

Fill it only partway with water while you're doing initial setup, so when you need to lean into it somewhat you stay drier.

Overall it is physically difficult and awkward, but it isn't drastically different from working on any other tank. It's just more reaching and usually getting more water on yourself, which is fine if you're prepared for cleanup.

Check out the Marineland Portrait (5 gallon) on Amazon - full kit, only needs a heater. - $57.46 - https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-ML90609-Portrait-Aquarium-5-Gallon/dp/B00O8SZTKQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1X2LC9K1PR12Z&keywords=marineland+portrait&qid=1550531669&s=gateway&sprefix=marineland+po%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1

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Add:

Indian Almond Leaves - $7.95 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HG1TMIW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Marino Moss Balls - find the cheapest with the best reviews - $7.95 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT8YO3E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

VitaChem - $9.12 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BS96V78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Betta Hammock - $7.56 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079ZM9H97/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My betta's favorite hammock - $5.99 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTMKNY2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seachem Ammonia Alert - $6.99 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255R5G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pipettes - $6.19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073WLCQWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thermometer - $6.99 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A0TMS6Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tweezers/Scissors for plants - $11.39 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y9ZGYMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Algae Scraper - $7.50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01726KDKG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

API Freshwater Testing Kit - $17.59 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NCI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Online Buying Link:

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DC 12V/ 20W/ 1000L/H : https://www.amazon.com/Upettools-Aquarium-Cleaner-Handheld-Electric/dp/B07GLR666W/ref=keywords=Vacuum+gravel+cleaner

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110V / 28W/ 1700L/H: https://www.amazon.com/Upettools-Removable-Multifunctional-Handheld-Electric/dp/B07DLS3VCM/ref=gravel+cleaner+Vacuum

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This is a copy/paste from another thread I did on this tank:

Hey!
So I was in your boat 3 months ago and with the help of some local saltwater guys I got my tank up and running. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nT9FtqEUfgE[1] (looks a lot different now since i did some rescaping... I'll put a new video up soon)
Anywhosel... Don't go cheap... With anything... If you have to buy one piece at a time until you've got all your pieces do that. What I have:

Tank: http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-5-Gallon-Black/dp/B0089E5VLC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392354430&sr=8-1&keywords=fluval+spec+5[2]

Lights: http://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Marine-Aquarium-24-Inch/dp/B00GFTK7CQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1392354461&sr=8-4&keywords=orbit+usa+lights[3]

Pump: http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Mini-Jet-Powerhead-VERSION-Misc/dp/B009LN1HWW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1392354739&sr=1-1&keywords=mini+jet+606[4]

Powerhead: http://www.amazon.com/EcoTech-Marine-VorTech-Propeller-Aquarium/dp/B003HLO636/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392354535&sr=8-1&keywords=vortech+mp10[5]

Gravity Tester: http://www.amazon.com/Salinity-Refractometer-Aquarium-Seawater-Agriculture/dp/B005ES6MOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1392354641&sr=1-1&keywords=Refractometer[6]

Glass Cleaner: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0061PIRGW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=20GUT5T0T21NZ&coliid=I1FAC5MICMTB5T[7]

I had freshwater fish before the saltwater and it's wayyy more maintenance but way more fun. You will want to abandon the freshwater the moment you get the saltwater up and running.

I don't really understand how syphone system would use great deal of water in cleaning phase. Isn't it just sucking water out when cleaning? Or are we talking something else than this kind of equipment: https://www.amazon.com/Flow-month-Cleaner-30ft-Aquarium-Changing-Cleaning/dp/B07RPSGWVM/ ?

And yes I agree that leaving tanks when he moves out is the REAL issue here (assuming his parents don't really want to maintain those) and I don't really feel it's even an option to leave tanks. But I don't really see the cost of water to be issue here when it is something like max 1$ / month...

It was this one

Wow, What a MasterPiece.

if You Need any Aquarium Accessories for this Wonderful Work, Please go get Amazon.com and Find "Upettools".

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Hot Sale Items:

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Temperature Aquarium Fish Tank Heater:

https://www.amazon.com/Upettools-Submersible-Thermostat-Adjustable-Explosion-Proof/dp/B07GLPVV4W/ref=sr_1_102_sspa?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1536918499&sr=1-102-spons&keywords=Aquarium+Heater&psc=1

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Aquarium Cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Upettools-Removable-Multifunctional-Handheld-Electric/dp/B07DLS3VCM/ref=sr_1_26?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1536918845&sr=1-26&keywords=Aquarium+Cleaner

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With a razor blade, a toothbrush, and a magnet cleaner. I just can't stand algae growth on anything including the back glass, so I like to keep it clean.

TOM Aquarium Maintenance Algae Scraper Multi Tool 34 Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JM0K8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_PDcgvb0ZCY0YB

I use this. Gives a lot more freedom rather than a razor blade but honestly I wouldn't do all of it at the same time. When I scrape off algae and coralline it usually puts tons of debree for a little while. So I tend to do like 1 side a day or something. We have a 80 reef.