Best aquariumgravel cleaners according to redditors
We found 195 Reddit comments discussing the best aquariumgravel cleaners. We ranked the 39 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 195 Reddit comments discussing the best aquariumgravel cleaners. We ranked the 39 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Looks like you didn't rinse the gravel before adding it to the tank.
Get yourself an Aquarium Gravel Siphon and a bucket.
A few things I would change though, to improve the setup and make this 3.5g tank work out for the betta... (PLEASE READ and bear with me, I know it's long but you'll learn a lot I promise!)
Other things you'll definitely need to have, and/or do:
Also PLEASE watch out with the overfeeding, your betta in this video clip looks super bloated (his little tiny belly looks about ready to burst, he's so stuffed). You need to fast him for 3-4 days until his belly looks almost flat again, then you can try giving him some daphnia as a mild laxative to help him clear out any further blockage (not to mention a heater to warm the water to a stable 78-80F will help his metabolism so he can process the food properly).
Here's a reference of photos to help you determine how much food his little belly needs: https://i.imgur.com/4RR2LZ9.jpg (feed slowly 1 piece at a time, watch his belly, and aim not to let it get too far past the 2nd from the top picture).
Please read these articles to learn more how to give your boi the best quality of life: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/index
Only once your tank is fully cycled (0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and 5-15ppm nitrAte) for a 3.5g tank, you will need to do one 30% partial water change (PWC) mid-week (Wednesday for example), and one 30% PWC at end of week (Sunday for example). Or if you won't be there over the weekend then do 1 PWC Tues. and 1 on Friday.
Good luck!
I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:
Equipment
Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.
Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.
EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:
Setting up your tank
After your tank has cycled
Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.
Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:
I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!
It's very kind of you to not just let him die! If you get him spiffed up you may be able to find someone who likes fish to take him in, so you don't end up feeling burdened...
but in the meanwhile, there is some basic stuff you can do. If your measurements are correct, then he's probably in a 2 1/2 or 3 gallon aquarium, which while not the best, will certainly suffice. This means the main things you'll need are a filter and a heater.
It would also be nice if you got him some stuff to hide in, so he doesn't stress. They make aquarium decorations, but a clean, well rinsed ceramic coffee mug or unpainted terra cotta planter will do the trick for cheap.
By the way, can you post the name of the water conditioner that you found in the tube? It will help me be able to figure out if it's a dechlorinator or not, which is the most important thing.
Also, does the tank have a lid? Bettas will jump out of water, especially if the water quality is bad.
Anyway, there is plenty of inexpsensive, decent equipment for a tank that size:
I personally happen to like this filter for a tank that size, and it's very easy to install/maintain.
Here's a nice little heater that's worked very well for me. You'd want to maintain his water between 75 and 80 degrees, so it's always a good idea to have a thermometer to make sure the heater is doing its job properly.
From there, maintenance is pretty easy. Feed him just 3 or so of those little food pebbles a day, and once a week give him some of the bloodworms for variety. The main thing is to not overfeed, because they have very small tummies.
Once a week, change out about 25% of his water, and rinse out your filter pads with old aquarium water if they need it. They make little syphons especially for this, because the suction they create helps you vacuum poo out of the substrate.
No problem! I love this kind of stuff! Neon tetras is what you had? Those are great beginners but they are kind of small. Platties are a good beginner fish that do best in groups of about 3 or 4, especially in a ten gallon. They get to be about 2-3 inches long, and come in many bright, beautiful colors! They also look really pretty when the tank is decorated! Black skirt tetras are also really hardy, and do well in groups! If you wanted variety, you could also throw in a mystery snail or two!
Tanks are pretty easy to shop for. Honestly, the best place I have found is amazon. There are two routes to take. The first is that you could buy all of the parts separately, or you could buy a kit with most of hte stuff oyu need. For beginners, I definitely reccomend getting a kit. This is a pretty good kit that runs pretty cheap! You'll also need a heater for a 10 gallon tank. I use this one because it can be placed either along the wall of the aquarium or along the bottom. You'll also need substrate, or gravel/sand for your aquarium to make it look really nice and to give good bacteria a medium to grow on! This is essentially a preference for what you want your tank to look like! I use this because I like to make my tank look pretty natural, but it is entirely up to you! The most basic rule is you need about 1 pound of substrate per gallon of aquarium. Also, you need to get a gravel vacuum to clean the gravel. I use a small one for my tank because it lets me be more precise. You'll also need some water conditioner to make your tap water safe for fish! Some people use aquarium salt in their tanks, but I've found it's not entirely necessary. You'll also want to get some plastic/silk plants for your tank! Live plants are preferable, but with a 10 gallon tank fake will be fine! Silk is usually recommended because it has less of a tendency to rip fins, but plastic works fine!
So, essentially the bare bones of what you need are:
Total: ~$130
All of these prices are from Amazon and my own experience, and can vary greatly from store to store. Especially during sales and such. You might get lucky and get all of this stuff for less that $100! It really does depend on where you are and what's available around you!
If you have any other questions, please let me know!
a lot of people in the hobby use these: http://www.amazon.com/Python-Spill-Aquarium-Gravel-24-Inch/dp/B004PBHX4G
I dont know if this is the "sink siphon method" you're talking about, but I lose almost no water with this method. it allows you to go directly from your sink to the tank (and the opposite). Just make sure the temperature is pretty close to the tank, and you add Seachem Prime or whatever tap water treatment you use directly to the tank before adding the water. As far as reducing flow you can either purchase a smaller python tube, kink the line of a larger one, or use some form of displacement (like a plate or hand) between the tube and water.
You can use a Gravel vacuum to get the gunk out of the substrate. Algae is not bad for fish at all! It is really just a primitive single celled plant that uses up nitrates(fish poop) and creates oxygen just like other plants. It's us fishkeepers that don't like the way it looks. It is very common to have new tanks go through a phase of algae growth, as your plants become more established they should out compete the algae and it will diminish. So manually clean off the glass and gravel vacuum what you can, and add more plants and/or floating plants to out compete the algae.
A 40 gallon will be much better than a 5 gallon. Be sure to put a good filter on it. (I would choose an Aquaclear 70 if your mom isn't bringing you a filter). It will give you a lot more wiggle room since they won't get to be 12 inches overnight! People do budget stands made from cinderblocks all the time, if you're not getting a stand. I'd stick to bare bottom if you are on the budget. It's cheaper, safer, and easier to clean than any substrate would be. You can buy some cheap peel-off paint and paint the outside of the tank black and do something like this and it will look pretty luxe for not a whole lot of cash. (I would skip the live plants and do driftwood myself, since my goldfish seriously chow down on any plant life in the tank.).
For now, I would do daily 50% water changes. Drain half the water with a gravel vac like this. Add your dechlorinator (again, SeaChem Prime is the best choice, especially in a too-small tank). Add in water that is the same temperature. If you absolutely can't do a thermometer, feel the water and make sure you cannot feel ANY difference. Not perfect, but it shouldn't kill your fish. I would still strongly encourage you to buy a water test kit, since you will be doing something called fish-in cycling. The toxic ammonia and nitrite are not immediately visible, but can cause serious damage to your fish. You want your parameters to be 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, less than 20ppm nitrate. Yours are not going to be that, and testing your water is the only reliable way to know when to do a water change, and how serious things are. The best of the reasonably priced is API Freshwater Master, which is usually around $20 on Amazon.
Unfortunately, I wish that the practice of giving away goldfish (or any live animals) as prizes was illegal, since I agree that it is absolutely not fair to you to ask you to spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on a hobby that you didn't intentionally choose and didn't know anything about until someone gave you a life to care for, and it's certainly not fair to the fish to send them home with people who are not prepared for them! I'm glad you are working on providing a better home for your fish.
P.S. I'm always happy to talk about goldfish, so you are welcome to PM me in the future if you have more questions!
Yes, you can do a fish-in cycle with a betta! It is not ideal, but he should be fine as long as you do your proper water maintenance. Get yourself a liquid (not paper) water testing kit and do daily water tests for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate and perform a partial water change (~20% or so) whenever they are detectable. This will likely be a few times a week. As your nitrifying bacteria establish, you'll be able to go for longer periods of time without doing those water changes. When fully cycled, you should do just weekly partial water changes. Seachem Prime is a great brand of water conditioner, as it's extremely concentrated (a drop or two will treat a gallon of water) and has the added benefit of detoxifying ammonia for 24 hours.
If you don't have one yet, a gravel vacuum is your best friend for water changes. Just have a bucket or something to drain the water into.
I'm not sure what kind of filter the kit comes with, but I recommend scrapping cartridges and filling the filter with good biological media (like aquarium sponge, filter floss, ceramic noodles). These media give a huge amount of surface area for your cycling bacteria to colonize, and never need to be replaced. You may also want to get a pre-filter sponge to slip over the intake to protect his fins from getting sucked in.
It will be okay! You can do it!
Here's what you'll need:
You have to keep tank clean by any means necessary, removing wastes as soon as possible is a part of routine. Just do it by using thin hose or a usual gravel cleaner. For slow picking it up, using minimum water, the thinnest tubing could be used (flexible tuning attached to the rigid clear acrylic tubing, if this is available to you if local fish stores). Move the hose end close to the poo and it will be sucked out the tank after siphon started.
You have to remove poo first, then remove the rest of water, planned for this water change, and add new water. This is a normal procedure for each water change. If you do search for gravel vacuum, you will see a lot of youtube videos about how to clean fish tank.
The last resort is to remove inhabitants in another container for the time of cleaning, empty tank, clean it thoroughly, and fill it with water again. Acclimate fish to new water for slowly adding new water to the container with fish. After water there becomes almost the same as in new water, it's safe to move fish back in the tank.
Plants for tanks without substrate: mosses (java moss, Christmas moss, weeping moss, flame moss), liverworts (round pellia, subwassertang, see Marks Shrimp Tank how tank with it looks like), java ferns, anubias, bucephalandra. The last three have roots, but they have to be glued to something (wood, rock), not buried.
Mosses could be used for moss walls, moss carpets (don't do this if there is a problem with poo), mss trees and logs. See this and this.
Sounds like you have pretty much everything covered!
As far as water changes go, you're going to need a dedicated fish bucket or two (I use two HDPE 2 gallon buckets from Walmart) and a siphon or a gravel vacuum. I use this gravel vac in my 10 gallon tanks and it works just fine.
Here's a good video on how to use a gravel vacuum.
Out of curiosity, are you planning on using ammonia or fish food to cycle your tank?
Fish in cycling is totally possible. Just buy some seachem prime (seriously, this stuff is the top of the top, get it), make sure you're doing regular (every other day is what I did) water changes of ~40-50% (side note, get one of these doesn't have to be the same one but something similar. This lets you do the water changes without taking the fish out of the tank which stresses the fish).
And most importantly, get a complete test kit one like this, not the strips they're inaccurate and make sure the ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite levels don't go too high. If they do, do a 60% water change and add some seachem prime and check back in a few hours.
You can also get something like this to jumpstart your bacteria growth. Putting filters from previously established tanks also works
He should be fine as long as you do all this! Love the setup btw!
Finally at work so I can give some links, lol
Here's a cheap sponge filter, I love these for bettas because they have a gentle flow and no mechanical intake for the betta to get sucked into. The bacteria will live in the sponges so make sure to never clean them with tap water or else you'll kill them! You'll also need an air pump and some airline tubing to get the filter going. I've used all of these and it's a pretty simple and cheap setup.
To actually measure the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels, you'll need a test kit. I know some people and stores use strips, but they are hilariously inaccurate. You can have levels of 70+ ppm of nitrate (which is usually deadly) and the strips will tell you that you have 0 ppm. The liquid kit also lasts a lot longer! Your tank is cycled when ammonia is at 0 ppm, nitrites are at 0 pmm, and nitrates are at 0-20 ppm.
To make it easier to clean his tank, you can use a siphon. It sucks up the water for you, all you need is a bucket/tub to catch it in. Makes cleaning a lot less hectic!
Just a side note, Betta are actually tropical (and cold-blooded fish), so they need a heater. This is good for a 10 gal, it's what I use :) You can also get a glass or electronic thermometer to make sure the water is staying at the recommended 78-80 F. If you already have a water conditioner this is optional but Seachem Prime is what I use as it binds and neutralizes low levels of ammonia.
Here's the sub caresheet/wiki, and here's a guide to fish-in cycling (which basically just means cycling the tank with a fish already inside). I know this is a lot of info/expenses all at once but if you ever have any questions you're always free to PM me! I'm happy to help to the best of my ability. I'd recommend getting him a 5 gal or bigger ASAP, and with clean warm water his fins will be healing in no time :)
No no no, don't add a pleco. They are bad for goldfish as they find their slime coat quite tasty. Plus, goldies are cold water and basically every other fish type is warm water. With the shrimp and crayfish you are just going to be throwing your money away, they will die pretty quickly in a goldfish tank. It's a common misconception that fish like Cory's or Pleco's eat poop, but Cory's eat what the other fish miss that floats to the bottom and Pleco's eat algae and plants. You WILL get an algae bloom eventually, don't go buy a pleco, just work on scrubbing it off and taking care with water changes because pleco's are hard to take care of properly and don't belong with goldfish.
Add your second filter right now, and if you can, get some cycled filter media out of your current one to put into the new one, to help get the bacteria growing properly. That EX70 is definitely not big enough. You are going to need to be cycling 300+ gallons an hour, so you are probably going to need to get a third one or just invest in something in the 110 size or larger. Seriously, goldfish are a mess in small tanks. You might get something like the Quick Vac to help get the poop out in between water changes. I love my cleaner, it really helps (I do have a pleco, he's such a poop machine, I have to clean out his home a few times a week.)
Get one of these. It's a mini siphon perfect for small tanks. It doesn't have nearly the amount of suction of a large one, but it pulls up debris in a small tank perfectly.
When you expand, this might be a handy tool for you: AquaAdvisor
Right now, if I were you, I would purchase:
HOB Nano filter
Siphon Water changer/gravel vacuum - Carry your aquarium over to a drain. Keep an empty two liter handy to pour freshwater back in.
You cycled your tank, right? If not, you may want to pour some of this in there to help.
Water Test Kit Keep track 2x a week. Small tanks are more difficult since water conditions can go bad quite quickly. Keeping an aquarium is not about fish, it's about chemistry.
Spiral CFL bulb to replace the incandescent you probably have. Incandescents suck and heat your aquarium way too much.
Thermometer Glass, with suction cup.
Light timer Trust me, keeping that light on all day is only going to cause algae, and won't make your plants grow quicker. 6 hours in the beginning, 8 hours max.
Heater 25 watt, keep at 80 degrees. The gradient lines will NOT be accurate.
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Low-tech tank care Study this, and pay attention to the dry fertilization part.
I use one of these bad boys.
Just put a gallon jug or bucket on the floor and start the siphon. Then just mix up the top 1/2 inch or so of the sand with the wide end and all of the crap down there gets sucked up. First though, I clean off the glass really well, and use a turkey baster to blow all the detritus and other junk off of (and out of) the rock in my tank, then give it 10 minutes or so to settle with all pumps off. THEN I do the siphoning. Helps get a LOT of gunk out in a pretty efficient way.
It can take 15 minutes total if you want to be quick about it, or two hours if you want a really deep clean of your tank (mine is 9 gallon, so YMMV)....which I recommend every couple months if your inhabitants aren't the kind to stress out over it too badly.
I also use a motorized pump version of a siphon to clean out the water more thoroughly and save a little time:
https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Gravel-Cleaner-Sludge-Extractor/dp/B003C5U2SU/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1473442810&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=eheim+electric+siphon
First-timer in over his head here. Could use an assist with setup. The ultimate goal is setting up something my (soon-to-be) 2 year old daughter will enjoy watching.
Planning on purchasing:
Tank & Stand: Aqueon 45G tank ensemble - $250
Light: LED - Included with tank
Filter: MarineLand Penguin 200 Power Wheel - $21
Heater: Orlushy Submersible Aquarium Heater 150W - $18
Python: Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System - $40, 24 inch adapter - $10, [hook] (https://smile.amazon.com/Python-Spill-Aquarium-Gravel-24-Inch/dp/B004PBHX4G/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2/146-3053739-1242457?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004PBHX4G&pd_rd_r=42a7c2bc-877d-414d-b0c9-2960fa629e40&pd_rd_w=q7tkK&pd_rd_wg=fjx36&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW&psc=1&refRID=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW) - $20, and this adapter for my non-threaded faucet - $12
Conditioner: [API Water Conditioner] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $7
Bacteria: [API Quick Start] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $4
Test Kits: [API 5-in-1 Test Strips] (https://smile.amazon.com/5-IN-1-AQ-Test-Strips-100CT/dp/B077YS7Y4Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VPPBFJ1NJSMG&keywords=api%2Btest%2Bkit&qid=1567987538&s=gateway&sprefix=api%2Btest%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3&th=1) - $26
That takes me up to $408. That leaves me about $100-150 in the budget my wife gave me to get decorations and the fish themselves. (It was supposed to be $500, but we always go slightly over budget)
Any recommendations on large and colorful fish that could attract and keep a toddler's attention? Preferably peaceful.
Any other recommended tweaks to the build? I haven't purchased anything yet, so I'm willing to completely scrap this and start over if somebody has a better idea of how to use the money.
I use Python brand gravel siphons and have no complaints. The small is $5 on Amazon; large is $10. Their squeeze bulb siphon starter is a great add-on for $6 and I think they're totally worth the extra cost.
This 44 second video shows how deep gravel cleaning looks. I don't do it much as my tanks are planted but it's not hard to do. Just get the siphon going and push into the gravel, suck until the water coming up starts to become clear, then let the gravel out and push down elsewhere. It's kind of fun. 😊
A gravel vacuum
You can pick one up anywhere that sells fish stuff.
Buy an aquarium vacuum/siphon along with a bucket or get a hose long enough to go outside.
Yeah!
Python Pro-Clean Aquarium Gravel Washer/Siphon Kit, Medium with Siphon Squeeze https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BDPFYEI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_uhdxzbHE0V0FK
Skip to ~3:00 to see it in action here with gravel https://youtu.be/G4Zi1g5vvYs
My guess would be that it could work with sand too, since sand is heavier than poop
Just bought [this one](Python 12PC Small Pro-Clean Gravel Washer and Siphon Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002APRVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uEM-ybE1C9B71) and it works well with my sand substrate.
You have bare bottom. That's easier than having a substrate. Use a turkey baster or one of those small siphon. Aqueon Mini Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 5-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IqYPAbFJZ4MEW. Like this one.
Pricy but probably what you are looking for
Funny, I've heard the opposite re the white sand showing up all the poop. I have black in all my tanks and I don't ever see any poop. Also, be aware that pool filter sand is very fine, so be careful it does not get sucked up and jam the impeller if you have an HOB. And you still need to "gravel" vac it. I found a longer skinnier python tube on Amazon and it's great because it's slower so doesn't suck up the sand like the regular ones do.
And all my tanks are planted tanks with sand. There is gravel mixed in, but it can be difficult to plant in gravel without the proper aquarium scaping tools
Buy this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003C5U2SU?cache=96fab02d9701f6a90f7c7a080f6bb7ef&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1407456721&sr=8-5#ref=mp_s_a_1_5 Basically what you asked for, right? Or am I not getting the idea?
The eheim is a vacuum that recirculates the water, so you can clean all the junk off the substrate between water changes. I would have never spend the money is cichlids weren't such nasty critters, lol,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003C5U2SU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506288299&sr=8-3&keywords=eheim+gravel+vac&dpPl=1&dpID=31cLttovLeL&ref=plSrch
Here ya go.
Advice from a fellow Canadian in a small city;
As for your fish;
2 potential culprits; fin rot or tail biting.
I hope you enjoyed this novel, best of luck!
Aqueon 06226 Mini Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 5-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_69rJxbEM6CMGY
That should work for a one gallon. Try doing it with him in, if he tries getting sucked into the tube, yeah pull him out in a bowl for a couple minutes. If he keeps his distance he probably won't be happy if you take too long but should be alright.
Not from requested regions, but this is what I could think of:
Good idea. Too many people rush it with starter bacs or buying the animals with the tank. Most fish stores don't seem competent enough. :/
Plants might look like dying after you added them. That can be normal, no need to panic if that happens. Just wait it out. Also, some plants don't like low light or temp. Natural selection, I guess. Check out "aquasabi", they have a plant database with great filters.
www.amazon.com/Boxtech-Aquarium-Gravel-Cleaner-Air-Pressing/dp/B07HMT7GPP/
I use one like this.
Just removing water is fine. If you like you can purchase a siphon to help remove some waste from the gravel.
As for cleaning the sides, I find these very useful.
For a 3 gallon tank I would definitely do 20-30% water changes twice a week. I would not add any more fish, aside from maybe a snail. Adding any more fish would overstock your tank, causing it to get dirty faster and upping the chances of illnesses.
No. Cycling takes at least a few weeks. (read the article I posted in an earlier comment) You can keep track of where it is in the cycling process by doing daily water parameters tests. Here is a really good kit.
https://www.petsmart.com/fish/maintenance-and-repair/vacuums/top-fin-aquarium-gravel-vacuum-5162807.html
But it's a lot easier to just get a motorized fluid pump for pumping water back into the tank. Something like this (but there are cheaper $10 versions):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APU2X0K/
http://www.magfloat.com/
https://www.amazon.com/Gulfstream-Tropical-AGU030SM-Mag-Float-Aquarium/dp/B003WRKVUC
Edit: Forgot to mention, the siphons usually remove water faster than I can clean the tank, so I like using this to clean my tank since it pumps the water back into the tank while catching all of the waste/debris:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OYOPNW/
It sounds like you may be feeding too much if that much food is uneaten and sinking into the gravel. Can you provide more info on your setup and feeding routines?
Here's a great video that shows you proper gravel vacuuming technique including how to start the siphon and how to control the water flow to separate the debris from the gravel (crimping the line).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYv5n0a85OY
This is the gravel vac that I use on my 5 gallon tank. Get the size rated for your aquarium.
https://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Mini-Tube-Hose/dp/B0002APRT2
http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=mini+gravel+vacuum&qid=1568853650&s=gateway&sr=8-2 I have 3 sizes of these, and used the mini in my 2.5gallon. It's very slow for me, but maybe what you need.
It started very slowly a couple-few weeks ago but I’ve been so busy with work I haven’t had a chance to do anything about it yet unfortunately. I have a gravel vac and a siphon starter but I’m thinking about getting this bulb syringe thing to remove Betta poop instead.
If you're looking for that exact one it comes with aqueon water siphons. The sell the whole siphon and clip (which looks to be updated and new) on amazon as an add on item. It looks to be an add on item. No clue where you can buy the clip on it's own.
Siphon and clip
Take the sink attachment part from here: https://www.amazon.com/Waterbed-FILL-DRAIN-KIT-Blue-Magic/dp/B0084FFL7A
Get a garden hose of whatever kind you want.
Get a sink to garden hose adapter
Get a syphon hose of whatever variety you want/have ex: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004RK1WBK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486358683&sr=8-5&keywords=aqueon+siphon+hose
Put this end on the syphon hose and screw into the garden hose.
Optional, shutoff valve( goes between syphon end and hose: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004SDYU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486358897&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=garden+hose+shut+off+valve&dpPl=1&dpID=51aJdogwv%2BL&ref=plSrch
Put all of this together with Teflon tape on all of the connections except between hose and sink attachment.
This isn't a out of the box solution, but this is what I would do if I could do it all over again.
I have a cheap gravel vac for my 5 gallon. It takes awhile to get used to sucking the water into the hose, but it works to suck up the crap at the bottom. I also have a magnet scrubber for the sides. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0002APRVK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 gravel vac. https://www.amazon.ca/Gulfstream-Tropical-Mag-Float-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B0002568ZO/ magnet scrubber
Copper Test kit
You will want to use a small siphon. And don't dig into the substrate. Hover just above it.
Copper shouldn't be an issue unless you are using ferts with lots of copper... or you overdose ferts. iirc, Seachem has trace amounts of copper, not enough to cause issues unless you use the entire bottle at once.
Rig up a priming bulb like they use on a fuel line or something along these lines. Great setup you've got there!
Amazon link with information: http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Gravel-Cleaner-Sludge-Extractor/dp/B003C5U2SU
That is a neat tool. Thanks for the video.
Personally I think it is algae, and your choice in gravel is probably contributing. It's a little on the large size, which means tons of crevices for the detritus to build up in that are difficult to clean properly. So even if you're doing regular water changes, unless you're also regularly and vigorously stirring up the gravel to raise all the junk into the water column, it all just sits. A plant would definitely help.
So two options. First fix is to switch out to a finer substrate. If you choose sand, it still needs maintenance because it can grow anaerobic bacteria and so will need to be gently agitated when you do water changes. A smaller size gravel wouldn't need it, but would still benefit from occasional shifting.
The second option is keep everything as is but be extremely aggressive with your cleaning. If you do that you'll need one of these so you can remove the fish from the tank and get the job done without stressing him or injuring him. What I mean by aggressive, is to remove the decorations, then use your hand or some sort of utensil to stir up the gravel. Specifically to put all the gunk into the water that you will be exchanging.
With the latter option there are two choices. For the first time, you can actually choose to strip the tank and fish the gravel out to deep clean into a bucket or tupperware or something. This is the method I'd choose because then the next water change will be much more clean since you're essentially starting with newer cleaner gravel. Do not wash the gravel with tap water, use the tank water. There's beneficial bacteria in the gravel by now that die from chlorine(tap water)
Choice number two is the lazy way, you just stir up the gravel and do several water changes over a week, but during that time your tank will still look dirty because of all the mulm and algae in the water. Also there's a good chance that the algae will get worse first before better as it's eating the nutrients.
In the end though I think these ways are how you'll get the best water for your fish and fix this issue. I wouldn't use any algae killers, since that's not actually solving the root issue here. I would strongly suggest you also get a plant but only after your water has become more clear because that way it has a chance to establish itself and not get choked out by the algae.
As a side note I don't know how you're siphoning your water out, and if you don't have a gravel vac might want to consider getting one.
I use this one for my 5 gallon tank, it works well for me. I use a 5 gallon home depot bucket to drain in to.
https://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Mini-Tube-Hose/dp/B0002APRT2/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2MJBGM3XMWERL&keywords=python+mini+siphon&qid=1567359317&s=gateway&sprefix=python+mini%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-2
Found a good deal for my fellow aquarists:
http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Gravel-Cleaner-Sludge-Extractor/dp/B003C5U2SU
http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Gravel-Cleaner-Sludge-Extractor/dp/B003C5U2SU I just saw this the other day at petsmart too.
It should only be powerful enough to lift a little bit of gravel at a time, if the gravel makes it to the top of the chamber then it's too strong. I've never run a tank with anything other than sand so I have no personal experience vacuuming a tank. You also shouldn't have to remove anything unless you want to, but I would recommend it(at least a couple times a year) because a lot of waste collects near decorations because they disturb the water flow and let it sit without be cleaned away by the filter. A lot of people stir up their gravel or sand a little bit before siphoning, that way since you've only got a little bit of water to siphon, most of the crap will be ready and waiting at the top of the gravel.
Also with filtration, carbon is only necessary to clean meds out of the water, but it can extend your water between changes. I used use carbon 24/7 but it has to be replaced pretty often, now I go without and just do more water changes, the water smells and looks just as good. So in the long run only use it if you need it for sure.
About using gloves, if that makes you more comfortable handling decorations and such then go for it, but honestly I'd be worried about the gloves leeching something nasty into the water, I just rinse and dry my hands and arms before handling anything in the tank.
The thing is with fish is that they prefer consistent conditions over ideal conditions, so if your levels are way out of range for your fish, you can shock them by correcting it too quickly, so just do whatever you can not to stress the fish.
If you decide to go with catfish or algae eaters, then use less salt than what I recommended, about half a dose because catfish are irritated by it more so than most fish. I think I may have killed both of my candycane plecos with salt. And to be clear, never use iodized table salt. Salts are going to keep your fish free from ick and parasites and fungus better.
Thanks! It's the Aqueon Mini Bow 5 Gallon. I think I have the old model, there's a newer one which seems to be more available on Amazon at this point. That comes with a filter. I just got a large silk plant today to put under the flow because it is a little strong for the betta. I have this heater. I had a lot of trouble with the really cheap Aqueon heaters. Didn't seem to work at all. I have the 10watt now because I bought it when I had a smaller tank, it manages to get the 5gal up to 76, I should probably order the 25watt now though. Didn't remember the one I have is too small! I also got this gravel vacc which you definitely want with an upgrade so you can do 25% water changes every week. Its really easy to use! Just need a bucket or container of some sort to put on the ground to collect the water. Good luck!
You really just need a siphon with a long head, like this one, if you don't have it already.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0002APRVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xJy2DbQXKKHDM
It's pretty easy to start, you don't need to submerge the whole siphon in your tank. Just pour water down the siphon, after it's filled up with water hold the other end of the siphon where the water comes out with your thumb. Submerge the long head in your tank fully, letting out any air bubbles. Then let go of your thumb. Water siphon starts right away.
The suction is weak, so it won't siphon up the sand. In a up and down motion, let your sand rise up and quickly raise your siphon. It'll go down. This is how I clean my tank for my corys.
https://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Gravel-Washer-Aquarium/dp/B001V6Y3LY/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=fish+tank+siphone&qid=1574057375&sr=8-6
Something like this might be what you're looking for.
Like this? http://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Aquarium-Gravel-Washer/dp/B0002APRVK/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1425940229&sr=1-4&keywords=python+siphon#Ask
I didn't know you could add dechloronator after the fact, I've been doing it beforehands. Should I be concerned about my fish getting sucked up! They're quite small.
I have crushed black gravel and I could see it being something I'd enjoy to an extent.
Here's the gravel vacuum I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002APRT2/
It's got a nice low flow rate which is helpful for smaller tanks because otherwise you're done with the water change before you've actually had enough time to work through much gravel. I'd also recommend getting the squeeze-starter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017JHPA6/
Okay...so there is a lot wrong here. I'll try to make it simple as to not overload you with information, and if you have further questions, please let me know and I'll expand.
I've never kept an oscar before, but i believe ~7.2-7.6 ph is optimal. For all fish, 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrites, and probably 0-30ppm nitrates are good numbers. Eventually these will be stable and you will only need to do probably one 25% change weekly. This takes about 10-30 minutes depending on your tools and proximity to a water source.
I would say this is a 75g, but honestly, i suck at guessing. Dimensions would clear it right up. The two plecos will eventually outgrow it, and may have already. They will need most likely a 120g+ tank. The oscar should be happy here. Absolutely do not pay someone to clean and maintain the tank. It is a lot of work up front, but it will be so much cheaper and easier for you. I have 3 tanks (2.5g, 20g, and 75g) and i spend maybe 40 minutes a week total. I spend 20 minutes a week on my 75 and it is mostly water changes.
Edit:
In addition, the plecos probably need driftwood or something equivalent to suck on to. Currently the atat is the only thing they have in the tank and that is not making them happy.
Things you must buy bare minimum to ensure livable water quality:
My issue was the siphon was just too big of a diameter for my tank. I am investing in one of these which I think will serve me a lot better.
And I do think I've been overfeeding. I was doing about 3 pellets in the morning before work and then 2-3 more later that night after I got home. I called a local pet store (well an hour away in the next town) and they said they feed every other day. So I'll just cut back to once a day from now on.
I'll try that with the next cartridge. I had already thrown the old one out when I changed the other night. But I'll keep it in mind. Thanks for the response!
What kind of bulbs are they? Have you tried to increase your lighting?
Here's what I'm referring to: http://www.aquascapingworld.com/algaepedia/full_view_algae.php?item_id=78
What I would try to do is remove your snails if possible. Let the algae grow for 3-3.5 weeks and than remove it with a battery powered vac like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OYOPNW/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1372953769&sr=8-7&pi=SL75 It comes with an attachment that removes algae off the glass quite well.
The reason I say remove your snails is because when they clean a path it means new algae is going to grow there, so if you clean your glass at 3 weeks some of the algae is younger than that and will release spores.
Another option is to add a dose of hydrogen peroxide after cleaning the tank glass, it will kill the spores when they are released(this needs to be done carefully): http://www.theaquariumwiki.com/Hydrogen_peroxide
http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/hydrogen-peroxide
You can also look into cheaper ones where you pour the water into a 5-gallon bucket, but this is totally worth the money. 5 gallon bucket is pretty heavy and it is hard to refill your tank imo.
They make various sizes of gravel vacs. Here's a baby one for small tanks.
https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY
no a python gravel vac that doesnt hook up to the sink
http://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Aquarium-Gravel-Washer/dp/B0002APRVK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463447786&sr=8-3&keywords=gravel+siphon
Here is the desktop version of your link
:( All the sand falls back into place for me. Maybe mine is less strong; it has a pump insert http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Aquarium-Cleaner-10-Inch/dp/B004RK405A?ie=UTF8&keywords=aquarium%20siphon&qid=1463540082&ref_=sr_1_9&s=digital-text&sr=8-9 like this one but mine is super cheap.
My suction is also wider, so probably slower.
I can't tell how big that is but something like this should work for a 6 gallon. http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY?ie=UTF8&keywords=small%20gravel%20vac&qid=1464546739&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
Would this work?
http://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Aquarium-Gravel-Squeeze/dp/B00BDPFYEI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I don't have a small siphon since I intended to do water changes with a cup.
Gravel vacing will have a huge impact on the nutrient imbalance. Have you tried a siphon with a gravel vac attachment? It really doesnt let any detritus back into the water.
This is the one I use. http://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Aquarium-Gravel-Washer/dp/B0002APRVK/ref=zg_bs_3048856011_5
this is what I am using now:
https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Aquarium-Cleaner-16-Inch/dp/B004RK191S
can you link something like you are describing? this thing just pulls out too much water with the crud. I was thinking about using some kind of filter in my dump bucket to catch all the poop and crud coming up through the siphon, leaving only "clean" dirty water than came out of the tank.
Honestly, it's going to be kind of a pain to work in. I have a 29 gallon out of necessity (I didn't have space available for anything with a larger footprint) and often wish it was shallower.
They make gravel vacuums with longer rigid sections and in a more general sense, you can get tools designed for most of the work you'd do on any other tank, in larger/longer versions.
Get a step stool so you're not reaching over the tank and back down into it.
Fill it only partway with water while you're doing initial setup, so when you need to lean into it somewhat you stay drier.
Overall it is physically difficult and awkward, but it isn't drastically different from working on any other tank. It's just more reaching and usually getting more water on yourself, which is fine if you're prepared for cleanup.
I've been considering buying this instead:
https://www.amazon.com/KollerCraft-Cleaner-Battery-Operated-Gravel/dp/B003OYOPNW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1474004750&sr=8-5&keywords=gravel+vac
It doesn't remove or replace the water though.
I've also considered buying just the part of the Python that attaches to the sink and the tubing, then buying a length of tubing to reach as far as I need and using the end of the simple gravel vac I already have. All I would really be missing is the shut off valve at the end, so I would have to turn the water on and off at the sink.
I can help ya a bit. So the vacuum is thing. It comes in all different sizes and types. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002APRVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7hWLAbY8CEKAS
You use this to siphon out the water and every so often, shove it into the substrate and kida shimmy it. The poop and stuff gets sucked away and the substrate falls back down.
I do a simple water change 1 or 2 times a week, where I pull out a gallon(ish) then put in a gallon(ish) of fresh, to temperature, conditioned water. Every other week during a WC I vacuum the gravel, but I don't have issues with sunken food.
Here's a video on extensive tank cleaning, just keep in mind it's not recommended to do this much all the time. https://youtu.be/9h8KTYMHP5w
You can also search "how to vac substrate" "partial water change" on YT and watch a few videos.
what about an Aqueon Mini? https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1494948619&sr=1-2&keywords=mini+aquarium+gravel+cleaner
Yes! I have this: Petyoung Small Submersible Heater... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GRRWTDF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Also I have this gravel vacuum: Aquarium Gravel Cleaner Kit with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HM3SQN0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And the filter media that came with the tank says it should be changed every 3-4 weeks. Should I keep it up with all that other stuff or no?
https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Medium-Siphon-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3VCBSQK9YVPU5&keywords=aquarium+siphon&qid=1549761252&s=gateway&sprefix=aquarium+si%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-10
Normally you only need to do 30-40%. You'll definitely want this siphon, anything bigger won't fit in your tank! You pump them up and down in your tank to get the water flowing so if the intake tube is too long then you can't get it started. It's an add-on item for Amazon though so you'll probably need to order the API test kits with it in order to be able to buy it. I've also seen them in Petco.
Online Buying Link:
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DC 12V/ 20W/ 1000L/H : https://www.amazon.com/Upettools-Aquarium-Cleaner-Handheld-Electric/dp/B07GLR666W/ref=keywords=Vacuum+gravel+cleaner
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110V / 28W/ 1700L/H: https://www.amazon.com/Upettools-Removable-Multifunctional-Handheld-Electric/dp/B07DLS3VCM/ref=gravel+cleaner+Vacuum
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Thanks! I have sand in my aquarium and I've been using this gravel vacuum http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Medium-Siphon-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1414548781&sr=8-10&keywords=gravel+vacuum
I have debris at the bottom of my tank from my plants but I'm having trouble getting them out using the one I have :/
Buy this I have a very crowded tank from my hardscape and was always moving things around. I found that gravel vac and man is it a tim3 saver for me.
I use one of these for my tanks under 10 gallons. Makes it easier and let's you do whatever you want to the gravel without losing track of time and draining half the tank in a few minutes.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMT7GPP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EHXCCbZBJE4ST
Wow, What a MasterPiece.
if You Need any Aquarium Accessories for this Wonderful Work, Please go get Amazon.com and Find "Upettools".
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Temperature Aquarium Fish Tank Heater:
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Are you referring to these? They contain a one-way valve, with a moving part. When you push down, the valve opens, letting water into the tube, but when you pull up the valve closes, holding the water in the tube so that it builds up as you shake up and down.
I've been doing my research. :) Ordered the Aqua Clear 50 as you suggested and I am buying ammonium chloride and a testing kit off Amazon. Also signed up for aquabid. :)
I considered Dr. Tim's bacteria but I decided to do it the slow way instead, because why not.
I found out the type of fish tank I wanted to do is the low light low-tech tank, so I'm reading up on them right now. I read about this scientist who makes fishtanks where you don't have to change water for months at a time when I was a kid. Apparently she writes books on the subject.
Going to do some more research and try to get this right.
In terms of how I siphon water out of the fish tank, will something like this work? http://smile.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Gravel-Washer-Aquarium/dp/B001V6Y3LY/
I decided to use Miracle Gro topped with some kind of sand for my substrate. Will this suck out all of my substrate?
I've got:
Python Pro Clean-Mini
As well as the squeeze starter reccomended with it and it works well. I use it for cleaning and water changes (as they go hand in hand).
if there's too much build-up and it looks gross, try a gravel vac (just a small one like this) and just suck it out as part of your regular water change ;)
I'm sure you heard of this, but just in case you hasn't: http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1450737645&sr=8-5&keywords=aquarium+siphon
What kind of filter is it? You could buy a smaller one, or buy/make a sponge filter, or make a baffle, there are lots of easy DIY tutorials like this one. You really need a filter though for the good bacteria to colonize. Read up on the nitrogen cycle, it's pretty much the most important part of keeping fish. To make this so much easier a test kit like this one is great. Liquid is best, strip are not very accurate. You can take water samples to fish stores and they will test it for you, but ask if it is liquid or strips and get exact numbers for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. A Good reading is 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and more than 0 but less than 20 nitrates.
As for the gravel, get a gravel vacuum. Because you are so over stocked, and are not likely to have completed a cycle, you should be doing lots of partial water changes. Press the vacuum into the gravel to disturb it and suck up the gunk when you do a water change. In a cycled tank that is not over stocked you would only need to do a partial water change one a week or once every 2 weeks.
Another note about the filter, the manufacturer directions will tell you to change the filter pad/media once a month. This is just throwing away all the good bacteria and will reset the cycle. If the filter pad gets really really dirty or is falling apart see if you can't put a second pad in with the first for 2 weeks to let the bacteria colonize the new pad before throwing away the old.
Not sure to be honest because I don't use one, but here are [the Amazon reviews on it.] (https://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Gravel-Washer-Aquarium/dp/B001V6Y3LY)
Of course! Glad to help. We've all been there and I know I'm still learning new stuff every day.
I unplug everything and use this siphon (I'm sure any is fine though) to suck out water / any obvious debris into a small plastic bucket I happened to have on hand (it's a good idea to designate a bucket to your tank). Luckily for me it was a 1.5 gallon bucket so it's perfect for 50% water changes.
Once the bucket is full I kinda shake around / "brush off" the filter cartridge in the old tank water and put it back. From what I've learned this lets you get all the nasty crap off it without compromising the beneficial bacteria. Even running it under your sink for a bit is a bad idea because of the chlorine in tap water.
I just dump out the bucket in the toilet, flush it, then refill the bucket with tap water. I try and adjust the temperature to be about the same. Put in the water conditioner according to directions. I use API StressCoat+, which I like, but a lot of people here recommend SeaChem Prime. Then just slowly pour water into tank and plug everything back in!
Having bred them a few times before and daffodils. I'll share my advice. 45 gallons is enough tank if you only keep the breeding pair. These fish are protective enough that they will run off bigger fish. My dad has a daffodil/julie pair, in a 125gallon, and the daffodil (4" mouth to tips of tail wisps) runs off a Frontosa that is 7 inches long and massively larger body wise. Best to just keep the mated pair in there. Take note that you won't have to get the young out of there, as each brood helps take care of the next along with the parents, which is kind of cool. I've kept plecos in the same tank, but they have to be larger so that they don't get picked on (think fully grown bristle-nose), otherwise they will get picked on / bite by the brichardi.
Getting a pair for mating... buy 6 to 10, and as you see fish get ostracized / chased to the corners of the tank, get them out of the tank.
Maybe get some clay/terracotta pots (don't get ones that have cement lining in them) put them on their sides for breeding, and/or break them in half. Soak for 5 to 10 minutes in bucket of water, get a masonry drill-bit, drill holes in a line up the sides, bottom; and whack lightly with a chisel and hammer.
Get an air stone of some sort in the tank, be it a bubble line, or an ornament, or a sponge filter (over filtering never hurts). Gravel is just fine as long as it's small, like pea or smaller sized, they'll dig and move things, be sure nothing will fall over and crush them (had this happen once or twice). Make sure to have driftwood in the tank, and remove live plants. Lake Tanganyika does not have natural water vegetation (plants) and they will uproot / rip up your plants. Water changes, they can survive/thrive in hard water, you can do weekly/bi-weekly/monthly water changes and they'll be ok.
feeding the babies, yes, you'll need Small Fry Starter Formula , and I suggest a turkey baster for feeding. You're going to get a little cup, put some tank water in it, then suck it up with the turkey baster, and put it near the fry to release and feed them, sounds weird, but it works.
Also, if you want more cichlid info... heres a book by a world renowned cichlid guy.
edit note: spawning cycle, assuming they keep at it, is about 3 weeks between broods.
edit note 2: changed encapsulated brine shrimp eggs to Small Fry Starter Formula
Do people refer to a specific python product model when they talk about how amazing they are? I have this one and it just seems like a normal old siphon to me
https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Gravel-Cleaner-Sludge-Extractor/dp/B003C5U2SU
I use this daily and love it. I only change water twice a month in my big tank so this helps keep it looking clean every day.
Okay here is a list of supplies off amazon:
Test kit: API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cEpvDb8R85Q1K
(should be found at the store, petsmart price matches from their online store and chewy.com)
Water conditioner: Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 100 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u-kKDbTMV2W8K
(at the store, may be in a different section - i found it near the crickets once for some reason)
Food: Northfin Food Betta Bits 1Mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
(online only unless youre lucky)
Gravel Siphon if you dont already have one: Aqueon Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner 5" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ypGUDbPQWMG6J (You dont have to get this one ofc, but you should def have a gravel siphon, you can find one of these at the store)
Hikari Usa AHK73254 Prazipro for Aquarium, 4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LOBGYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VqGUDb6RFCYMX
(online only-
or you could try API general cure which is probably at the store for meds)
Biomax: Fluval SPEC Carbon Filter Media - 3-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049RIUWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xsGUDb7GSFX4H
(This is at the store too)
For what you have now you can (and should really tbh) still soak in tank water before feeding. Its hard to know how much to feed with flakes, ill always prefer pellets for fish but hmm.. Idk try like 3 medium pieces ? I really am not sure
NEMO!
I just shared this in another thread. Electric gravel cleaner (also pumps water for water changes). This has been a lifesaver.
Skip the old siphon. This thing filters the debris out and leaves the water, so you can clean whenever you want and not have to do a water change simply because you wanted to clean.
Get the right size hose for the thing (since they don't give you the right size hose.....) And you can siphon your water in or out easily as well.
You want the red one - it's the only one that has good reviews and it's what I use.
Edit: by siphon your water out, I mean this thing can easily empty half my 60 gallon tank in like 7 minutes since it's electric with it's own impeller.
You know a lot about betta tanks! Can you tell me what would be the best way to clean the gravel and log in my tank? A gravel vac seems like overkill, I was thinking about getting one of those things that look like a turkey baster to suck up the gunk that will accumulate along the bottom. I'm also planning a 20-25% water change every week, but I figure since it's not much, I can just scoop out the water with the plastic cup that my betta will come home in today (yay, I'm so excited to meet him!). Good plan, or no?
Set up for single Axolotls
Realistic initial start up cost $135
Excluding cost of axolotl
$5-$40 20g tank MINIMUM preferably 30g (offer up, let go, Facebook groups and pet stores)
$1-$70Hides - decor or caves or even home made must be water safe even pvc piping works minimum of 2 (decor can become expensive fast if you want to make your tank look very “pretty”)
$20-$30Filter - something with low current flow sponge filter or a canister filter with something to break up a strong flow if you have a sponge filter you need air line tubing and a air pump
Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oov7AbY5ESARC
Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kpv7AbQ20H9V7
Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hpv7AbC3Y8R2Z
$10-$15 Water additives
Water dechlorinator follow instructions on bottle if the tank isn’t fully cycled use prime plus follow instructions on bottle
API TAP WATER CONDITIONER Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1qv7AbHFPEHT5
Tetra 77960 SafeStart, 15-Gallon, 50-ml, 1.69-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E2RI74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tv7AbDHHEMEY
$20-$35 API water test kit to make sure the water is in good parameters
http://www.axolotl.org/requirements.htm
API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zvv7AbK35G0WW
$2-$10 Aquarium thermometer that reads down to 60 degrees F
CNZ Digital LCD Thermometer for Aquarium Fish Tank Vivarium Reptile Terrarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPXVI94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yxv7Ab1NSQ5H6
$5-$20 Aquarium syphon
Aqueon Medium Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 9-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2aw7Ab3Z5KS9B
Feeding
$2.50-$3 Fishing earth worms (Walmart sporting goods section)
$10-$15 blister pack of 30 blood worm cubes (I can sell them to you while supplies last for $15 or you can buy them at any pet shop that sells fish)
Earth worms when they get bigger try to feed them nibbles of a worm like the size of their head and move up as they get bigger and frozen blood worms for first month to month and a half try to feed the earth worms to the axolotls ever couple days by hand until they start accepting them they might start accepting earth worms as soon as a week after receiving them from me (feed frozen blood worms every other day until they are regularly eating pieces of worm )
Maintenance
You can use a turkey baster and clean up their poops as you see them you’ll still have to do water changes but much less water 25%-35% or use a syphon once a week and do a 30%-50% water change along with the water dechlorinator and some of the safe start plus make sure to test the water regular with the api test kit
Keeping the water to the correct temperature
60-64F is the perfect water temp for them but it can be hard to achieve during summer but doing more regular water changes can help with that and putting a fan over the aquarium blowing on it will help by up to 4-5 degrees
NO SAND OR GRAVEL ESPECIALLY NO GRAVEL EVER sand maybe fine once they are 6-7inches but they will swallow it and they can become impacted and possibly lead to death
I have this vac:
Aquarium Gravel Cleaner Kit with priming bulb - 2-minutes to assemble - Facilitates frequent water changes - No need to remove fish or plants - BPA-free Siphon - Perfect for cleaning small fish tanks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HM3SQN0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EnV6AbJZV8V44
I just use the end with the "screen on it" after getting the flow started I just kinda dig it into the substrate and mess it up a little usually grabel clogs it up so you pull it out after, gravel falls out, then repeat. You probably have a good idea where the dirtiest areas are, usually corners or behind thick/big plants.
This video is really informativecfor cleaning. Around 8ish minutes is when he starts vac'ing
https://youtu.be/J-irFjxJAzQ
I just got a new tiny gravel vacuum for my five gallon and it's perfect. I can't believe all the time I've wasted with full-size vacs because that was all the stores had and I didn't even know small ones existed. It's tiny enough to get into the corners and around my plants, and it takes in water slowly enough to give me time for detailed cleaning. The self-start actually works, too, which I was surprised to see. I'm really pumped about it.
I'm using pool filter sand and a siphon similar to this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002APRVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1463538689&sr=8-4&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=aquarium+siphon there's always junk that doesn't want to get sucked up unless I actually touch the sand, causing me to get a bunch of sand along with it.
Gravel vac for me, too, but this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GBT525Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
gravel vacuum
I also have a 5 gallon. The small sized gravel vaccuum is perfect for that size tank if you're interested in one. Here is where I got mine. I think with the 100% water changes and constant moving in and out of the tank you might be stressing your betta out....