(Part 2) Best audio/video receivers & amplifiers according to redditors
We found 932 Reddit comments discussing the best audio/video receivers & amplifiers. We ranked the 164 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Denon X3600H - 9.2 receiver with expandability to 11.2 and assignable amp channels.
Powersoundaudio MTM-210 across the front. Ideal matching sound stage behind a screen and high efficiency. PSA also has a generous free trial period.
Powersoundaudio V1811 x2. Dual subwoofers for even room bass and enough headroom for your room size.
This puts you about 500 under budget and would make for an incredible front stage. I'm sure you'll get other recommendations for conventional speakers and I'm sure those are great for music listening or mixed listening, but when it comes to home theater, I'm a firm believer in the highest dynamic range while still being good to listen to.
This is also about the same speaker / receiver /subwoofer ratio that I currently run pricing wise.
Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2"
Dayton Audio B452 4-1/2"
Yamaha NS-SW100BL 10"
Dayton Audio C452-AIR Dual 4-1/2"
Yamaha RX-V483BL 5.1-Channel
I believe that they already come with the requisite cables and wires.
You won't want to upgrade for a long time.
This is what they have done on Amazon historically
Denon 4400
Denon 4300
Onkyo TX-NR676 - $339.00.
Polk T30 center channel - $89.99
Polk PSW10 10" subwoofer - $99.99
Polk T50 towers for the front speakers - $89.99 x2 = $179.98
Polk T15 Bookshelf speakers for the rear surrounds - $59.00 x2 = $118.00
Total: $824.98. Throw in ~$70 for sales tax and another $30-40 for audio cable and $5 for an HDMI cord. You can save $60 by switching the front towers for T15s.
The Onkyo can be expanded to 5.1.2 for Atmos, and supports DTS:X as well. 4K passthrough and it supports every audio format up through Atmos. It's a fantastic AVR, especially at that price.
EDIT: fixed link for T50 towers.
Absolutely no point in spending $200 on a receiver to pair with a $100 turntable and $90 speakers. Buy a cheap T or D class mini amp and be done with it. For example: https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP7498EA-200W-Digital-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B00FJWKZP4
So I am gonna try to answer your actual question, though PLEASE heed the advice of upgrading your system.
I looked at the AVR you have, and you will 100% without a doubt NEVER get 5.1 input to that device. It simply does not have an interface to accept any type of digital audio input.
So unfortunately it just isn't gonna happen in any way shape or form. No adapter, device, or otherwise will make it happen.
-----
Now that we have that cleared up, if you want 5.1, you do have options.
Your speakers look to be 6 Ohms, so you need an AVR that can support 6 Ohms, and you can use the exist speakers. Though you will need a subwoofer to replace the proprietary stuff.
I personally like my onkyo AVR, it has worked extremely well for me. This one is the upgraded model that supports Dolby Atmos, DTS:X, 4K, HDR10, and Dolby Vision.
So this will do so much more then your current setup.
https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-NR676-Channel-Network-Receiver/dp/B06XTYXH9M/
Just that single purchase alone will get you 90% of the way to a decent setup.
Combine that with something like a BIC F12, and you have a kicking theater setup that will honestly rival that of your actual local theater.
https://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M/
I own the Onkyo TX-NR656 which actually has Dolby Atmos support built-in. So when paired with the Atmos up facing speakers it then gives me the full experience.
Now you can use a headset and the dolby atmos app. A license fee is required to use the headset app, but its NOT required when using a receiver like mine above.
You are always free to use the free Windows Sonic headphone option that gives spatial audio.
Edit:
You can use any headphones, but over-the-ears are the best. The license fee/app is only needed for headphones. If using a receiver (that supports it) it has built-in support.
Now my receiver only supports Dolby Atmos Up to 5.1.2 Channels. (this means that the 7.1 channel goes down to 5.1 plus the 2 Dolby Atmos Up-facing speakers, but then also adds the two up facing speakers.
They DO have more expensive ones that allow full 7.1.2 Channels. But it might be overkill :p
Honestly I'd recommend an AV Receiver.
That said, check that your current PC doesn't have onboard 5.1 surround. If it doesn't you could pick up:
Obviously you can spend whatever you want on the speakers. The above would be great on a budget. Spend anymore and IMHO you should just get a receiver:
Phono preamp upgrade:
Schiit Mani $129 or a Hagerman Bugle3 $189 (both have adjustable gain settings) besides many other options. If you DIY, Muffsy DIY Phono Kits or Bugle2 PCB-Kit.
Internal preamp bypass upgrade:
Open up the case of the LP120 to manually bypass the switch that does not completely turn off the internal phono preamp to use a better external phono preamp.
Stylus upgrade:
Cartridge upgrade:
The popular cartridge upgrade from the AT95 for the LP120 is the Nagaoka MP-110 $129.
Or if going with AT, VM520EB $119, or VM530EN $179.
VM540ML at $250 may be overkill for the LP120.
Headphones: r/HeadphoneAdvice.
Headphone amp:
Musical Fidelity LX2 $199.
Hybrid tube: Schiit Vali $149.
Tube:
Speakers?
For dirt low budget the nobsound would work. Gets the job done
http://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Stereo-Receiver-Amplifier/dp/B00W9H9W42
Zeos review:
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hzjDbbuNNpc
Yamaha R-S300BL Stereo Receiver (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044779H2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_NbpkxbE8HXM4H
EDIT: Use the HDMI inputs on your TV.
If you must have an HDMI AV receiver, it will be at least 5.1., and you will need an external phono preamp. My recommendation would be Marantz NR1504 Slim Line 5.1 Channel Home Theater Network AV Receiver with AirPlay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BLZDKX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_9epkxb1GRQX11
The Yamaha will sound better for vinyl. The Marantz will likely sound better for everything else.
SECOND EDIT: if you need digital inputs then you'll have to up your budget to $550. That will get you 2.1 with digital inputs and a built-in phono stage (will only accept LPCM 2 channel, won't down mix 5.1). This thing would be great. Yamaha A-S501SL Natural Sound Integrated Stereo Amplifier (Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXUCMWO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_WhpkxbY9HE6YG
I've got 10 audio zones in my house, and I did two multi-channel amps like these then I ran chrome cast audios into each zone, but all of this is completely seperate from my surround sound setup for my tv.
there are a few choices though most are hybrid tube amps
https://www.amazon.com/xDuoo-TA-01-192KHz-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00L25RF78/
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-T1-Optical-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B06WP6357W/
https://www.amazon.com/Aune-T1-Generation-Amplifier-Decoder/dp/B00A2QJMRY/
https://www.amazon.com/Pangea-Audio-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00TA7CNQ8/
If you have an optical or coax out put then you could get a really cheap DAC and feed a tube amp like the Little Dot 2
You don't gain that much from having those extra side speakers unless the room is extremely large and the speakers reasonably far away from your listening position, and the ceiling speakers more than make up for having the two extra side speakers. The reason 5.1.4 is the sweet spot is because receivers that do it are still reasonably affordable... if you wanted to do 7.1.4, the receivers to do this get more expensive... a good $1000 price jump, from spending $600-1000 for a receiver to spending $1750-2500.
The last number is the number of ceiling speakers you use. Some people have 5.1.2 systems, others have 7.1.2.. you'd be better off with 4 ceiling speakers in 5.1.4 configuration than a 7.1.2 configuration. The ceiling speakers don't have to be super expensive.. these are mine...
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Wall-Speaker-Black/dp/B0018QNYVM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1542558117&sr=8-7&keywords=polk+wall++speaker
you do want to (except for the subwoofer) try to have the same brand of speakers throughout the whole setup. I have a Polk CS2 center, Monitor 70 fronts, and Monitor 60 rears. (These used to go on sale at newegg from time to time.) These speakers have gotten some criticism by some people because of the tweeters, but they work fine as long as you get a receiver powerful enough to give them the juice they need... if you get an underpowered receiver that generates any clipping, it can blow the tweeters out.
Might as well throw in what receiver I got.. I didn't pay $900, I got it on sale for $700 I believe. And yes, it does pass through 4K HDR @ 60FPS.. that one star review is wrong.
https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVRX4400H-Channel-Network-Receiver/dp/B072Z6VT1C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542558660&sr=8-2&keywords=x4300h
I'd call this a "bang for the buck" setup.. it's not audiophile quality (but sounds like it to my ears) but it doesn't cost $5,000-10,000 either... total cost is around $2000 (when everything's on sale)... most people here could assemble a 5.1.2 setup for around $1000 (when shit's on sale) they'd be perfectly happy with. The most expensive components are the receiver and subwoofer. The least expensive components.. ceiling speakers. As a MGTOW you don't have to spend extra that the audiophiles spend getting more powerful speakers to accommodate large numbers of people. If you just have 1-4 people in your setup, it will cost a lot less than if you make a setup designed for 5-10 or more people. As distance from the speakers increases, required power goes up.
At some point I might end up moving this whole system so it's flush with the back wall.. my initial goal was to avoid glare from these massive windows but I think I can mitigate that with light blocking curtains. This would allow me to expand the soundstage more and make room for guests.
The first one appears to be 10 years old, the second, 7 years old. I’m not sure why you want used; technology moves faster than it once did—one of these has 4K pass-through, the other does not. Unless you’re interested in used audiophile equipment that does what it does very well even years later (Marantz comes to mind) I think you should be more concerned about how forward-compatible your purchase will be.
The Yamaha model below is only $279 on Amazon, has 4K pass-through, and the new price is competitive with the models you asked about.
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V483BL-5-1-Channel-MusicCast-Receiver/dp/B06XY9J6BQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538709743&sr=8-3&keywords=yamaha+4k+ultra+hd+receiver&dpID=319ikrDIiIL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Id suggest something like this, it will provide a lot for your money. Plus if you want to upgrade later to a full system you can.
http://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVRS500BT-R-Recertified-Refurbished-Capability/dp/B00DS1QRQY/ref=sr_1_37?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1419510617&sr=1-37&keywords=marantz+receiver
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W9H9W42/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_DdOhybGK031GY
These are a very inexpensive way to go from pc to speakers with speaker wire. Z Reviews on YouTube says it's surprisingly good.
Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00081NX5U/
Amp(protect this from elements): http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W9H9W42/
Wire (electrical tape ends after setup): http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LW0WDQ/
Power Supply: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XDNDPT4/
Power Cable (opt): http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005J5ZL0A/
$102
I hate to be the debbie-downer, but a big part of the Bose sound is some very clever wizardry inside the box that no longer works --
They build their tiny speakers optimized for A) power handling, and B) minimal distortion, and usually end up with something that has quite odd frequency response.
Then they measure the transfer function of their little screech-box, and have their engineers build signal-processing to apply the inverse of the transfer function just before the amplifier stage in the central brain.
Along with some clever use of multiband compression using psychoacoustic tricks so that we hear impressive bass even though the actual electrical bass power to the speaker is limited, the end result is a speaker that measures and sounds like it has flat frequency response between say 50Hz and 18kHz, but only if the special brain is in the circuit in front of it.
r/audio has lots of people suggesting various low-cost "class-d" amplifiers, so if you want to try this anyway with something inexpensive you could get a bluetooth class-d or class-d amp with line-in and a cable to connect your phone to it -- just connect the stripped wires of the two leftish speakers to the "left" black and red "speaker" terminals and likewise with those on the right.
Okay, so Ive been looking at the Denon receivers, and Ive been debating between a few. The cheapest one with Audyssey XT32 is about $1000. So I figured at that price point, might as well go a few models up to get the 9.2, which is this one:
Denon AVRX4400H 9.2 Channel Full 4K Ultra HD Network AV Receiver with HEOS black, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Z6VT1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pdJ4AbQR2G30J
Ive also been looking at this one which is quite a bit cheaper, but doesnt have the 9.1 or the XT32, but does still have Audyssey MultiEQ. I want to clarify that sound quality is important for me, but not that important. So, my question is, if you were me, which would you go with?
https://www.amazon.ca/Sony-STRDH590-Multi-Channel-Bluetooth-Component/dp/B078WG7HZY
Or
https://www.amazon.ca/Yamaha-RX-V485BL-5-1-Channel-Bluetooth-MusicCast/dp/B07CF9H3KW
Or
Denon AVR-X1500h But it’s High $ on Amazonca , Cheap on Amazon USA
https://www.amazon.ca/Denon-Receivers-Component-Receiver-AVRX1500/dp/B07CVJ4Y3S
https://www.amazon.com/Denon-Receivers-Component-Receiver-AVRX1500/dp/B07CVJ4Y3S
or Denon avr-x2400H (My Pick)
https://www.amazon.ca/Denon-AVR-X2400H-7-2-Channel-Network-Receiver/dp/B07QKMYNR8
But I can get Refurbed
https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrx2400h/denon-avr-x2400h-7.2-ch-x-95-watts-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.html
Speakers: (Fluance is Canadian and Nice Speakers)
If you wanted to get All Speakers now - I’d buy this Set personally
https://www.amazon.ca/SXHTBW-Definition-Surround-including-Floorstanding/dp/B01M62GRFA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRt0JNMOCa8&t=224s
Or
Their Better Towers
https://www.amazon.ca/XL7FBK-Performance-Three-way-Floorstanding-Loudspeakers/dp/B01J67V2EU
https://www.amazon.ca/Signature-Three-way-Floorstanding-Speakers-HFF/dp/B019YBHOOA
Sub
I’ve read Fluance subs Sound Good ?
https://www.amazon.ca/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1200-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B00669L3HS
Or
https://www.amazon.ca/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M
Or
https://www.amazon.ca/RTR-EV1200-Eviction-475-Watt-Front-Firing-Subwoofer/dp/B003H3G5D8
Jamo is another Good Choice for Speakers But read their subs have amp issues?
I Like the Pioneer Andrew Jones Towers -Sp-fs52 - don’t own them but seen many Good Reviews on them and listened to them in Frys Store. Some on Here say they Suck But I don’t know if they’ve actually had them or not.? A Few guys on Here got them and posted or pm’d they Really Like them......they have a matched center and bookshelfs available
8:42 mark
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcEOUF7Sodo&t=939s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oVljZGOJUE
https://www.amazon.ca/Pioneer-SP-FS52-Designed-Floorstanding-Speakers/dp/B00LFTQ1GW
https://www.amazon.ca/Pioneer-SP-C22-Designed-Channel-Speaker/dp/B008NCD2EI
Better Polk Audio Monitor or Signature wouldn't be a Bad Choice:
https://www.amazon.ca/Polk-Audio-Monitor-Floorstanding-Speaker/dp/B006QL0XXQ
https://www.amazon.ca/Polk-Audio-Signature-S55-American/dp/B01LWB2LIX
Turntable:
A lot of people have differnet preferences between belt vs. direct drive vs. idler wheel (Yes, this is a thing). I personally used both belt and direct drive, and found that I enjoyed the direct drive TT a lot more for stability.
If I were you, you can find a good used Technics SL-1200 MK2 for around $300-$400 on Craigslist/Pawn Shops. This is the turntable the AT-120 is based off of, and is the best bang for your buck entry wise. It's direct driven, has both a counter-weight and anti-skate, and has the lowest wow and flutter compared to some of the other entry level turntables like Pro-Ject or Rega.
Pre-Amp:
If you really want to go with a tube amp, I recently bought the [YAQIN MS23B](http://www.amazon.com/YAQIN-upgraded-version-12AX7B-Stereo/dp/B00HQW4NYO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1396718684&sr=1-1&keywords=yaqin+phono+amp
), and I've found it to be a fantastic tube amp, probably the best bang for your buck in terms of a tube amp.
Headphone Amp:
The MP-301 looks like a pretty good Headphone amp, but I would also consider the Little Dot MK III. It has a bit better frequency range, and is even a bit cheaper.
In regards to Tubes vs. Solid State, some people think the Tubes provide a, "Wamer" sound due to the tubes. The only major work on tubes you would have to do if you bought new, were to replace the tubes about every year or so worst case scenario. And yes, you can combine tube and solid state amps. My friend runs a solid state phono, and uses a tube headphone amp.
Hopefully that answered your questions!
Sorry, I've been traveling. While I don't have direct experience this Onkyo model seems like it would fit the bill, just ignore the HDMI. Not sure how much power you're hoping to get but it's 100W/channel.
https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-8160-channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06Y15DWXZ
sell the bose and paradigm center and get a STEREO receiver with HDMI onkyo makes one witha good rep
https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-8270-Channel-Network-Receiver/dp/B06Y15DWXZ/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536550969&sr=1-4&keywords=onkyo+stereo+receiver
I found some used RP-160m Klipsch for $200 used. Said they are 12 months old. Thoughts? Anything I should know? Seems like a legit guy/post.
This would be the start of my setup. Still looking for a AV reciever. Will be used for a turn table, movies, and maybe from a PC or Google Home if possible.
USA.
Super small house / room. Total house is 900sq. Don't plan on going any more than the 2 speakers for now. Maybe a sub some point later.
When I was a kid my first big purchase was a set of 5.1 Klipsch computer speakers. Loved them. Might have a thing for the look because of it.
Edit:
Picked up a RX-V483BL Yamaha for $70. Seemed like too much of. Receiver for the money to pass up. It was a display unit at best buy.
Yamaha RX-V483BL 5.1-Channel 4K Ultra HD MusicCast AV Receiver, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XY9J6BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aBBKBbS9HYQ4J
Sure.
https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP7498EA-200W-Digital-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B00FJWKZP4
https://www1.crutchfield.com/p_580TX8160/Onkyo-TX-8160.html
This is tough. Many-channel home amps can be fairly expensive. You can always hack together an old receiver and splice into the speaker outs, but you’ll likely overload it. There are a few on Amazon. “12 channel amp.”
OSD Audio MX1260 12 Channel, Six Stereo Zones, 60 Watt Peak per Channel, or Bridged Mono 80 Watts per Zone/Channel, Includes a choice of direct input or Dual Universal Bus Inputs selectable per per channel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S3PY9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y8A-BbPXTN78N
The speaker cables can be simple zip cord-
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/
This receiver would fit the bill and is about as cheap as I can find from a reputable manufacturer.-
https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-SR373-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XVGCBZ4/
Nevermind, I can post several links obviously
Indoor Outdoor Projector Screen,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F1VLRZ6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
J-Tech Digital Ultra HD 4K HDMI to HDMI + Audio (Spdif + RCA Stereo) Audio Extractor Converter(Support Apple TV 4 Gen) Premium Quality https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YHS5E6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_G8ZdIxDbFbxhh
VANKYO Leisure 510 Full HD Projector with 3600 Lux, Video Projector with 200" Projection Size, Support 1080P HDMI VGA AV USB with Free HDMI Cable and Carrying Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2Y5LX9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MxYBCbDMFNHW7
Jeteven Polyester Hanging... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WWRRZV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
AUKEY Table Lamp, Touch Sensor... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJ7F14I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Mini Dj Disco Ball Party Stage... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RKPSDK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Sennheiser HD 579 Open Back... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L1IIF1K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Flash Furniture High Back Black... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012JJ2EEY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
P3 P4330 Kill A Watt Ps 10 Surge... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004OG94VW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
LG 29WK600-W 29" UltraWide 21:9... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GL93KG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Onkyo TX-SR373 5.2 Channel A/V Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVGCBZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kCYBCbJTN8QJ1
Polk Audio T15 100 Watt Home Theater Bookshelf Speakers (Pair) - Premium Sound at a Great Value | Dolby and DTS Surround | Wall-Mountable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RJLHB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OCYBCbX2TX5XM
Polk Audio PSW10 10" Powered Subwoofer - Featuring High Current Amp and Low-Pass Filter | Up to 100 Watts | Big Bass at a Great Value | Easy integration Home Theater Systems https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mDYBCbWN7VD6T
TCL 43S425 43 Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart Roku LED TV (2018) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DK5PZFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3DYBCbZ7TGJ9X
Plus an Asus rog laptop gtx 1060 16gb ram, two ps3s, Corsair hs60 headphones, vmoda Crossfade wireless, a Google chromecast
Audio quality wise for sure, not even a competition.
However, you mentioned size constraints, so may the DefTech are the best you can do.
For a regular setup:
Pioneer 531 for $190
Dayton Sub-1200 for $150
MTX Monitor 5i +6C for $210.
Dayton Air's for $60 (if bought with the sub/MTX, or else you pay shpping)
All mini amplifiers with a given power rating will perform just about identically.
So it's mostly a matter of which convenience features (multiple inputs? digital inputs? remote control?) you want and how much power you want.
In a dorm room, with those speakers you could probably get by with the tiniest of $20 Lepai/Lepy amps, especially if you just want some polite listening levels and aren't trying to rock a party
I always recommend this as kind of a minimum: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC
That gets you into some party speaker territory for $65. There are an assload of mini amps with similar power output. Some are a little cheaper, and some are more expensive and add various inputs and remote controls and such. They will generally perform more or less identically when it comes to sound.
For just a little more money something like this or this one will give you even more power. With their volume cranked high enough they will actually put out more power than the Daytons can handle. So, don't do that.
Thank you so much for the reply, i really have no idea what i'm doing. So if i were to get the DZ1 with an amp like this, what else would I need to hook it up?
Short answer yes you can get a mini amp/integrated amp but you'll lose the center output. To get that center output you'll have to step into some kind of AVR. Here are some options to think about.
You pair these with some good speakers and you'll have yourself a nice system. It's just what route would you like to go down. AVR's aren't that complicated but I can understand your apprehension. Just remember the less speakers the less complicated the setup.
Hi all, this is a repost from the last purchase help thread, because I think I got to it a little late,
I'm finally moving to an apartment of my own, and looking to get a stereo that befits this momentus occasion :).
I care more about listening to music than having a home theater/surround setup, although this will be used for both TV and music. The room it's going into is pretty big. It's not exactly square, but the room is something like 18x18 feet of combined living, dining and kitchen area. I can afford to pay for nice things if they're worth the money, but bear in mind my music source is more Alexa/Spotify than turntables. I do like electronic/dance music, but not exclusively.
I was having trouble finding stereo amps that have decent power output without going fully into niche-expensive gear. Maybe this is just an indictment of my Google-fu... so I'm especially open to suggestions on that front.
So my current thinking is:
Total: $1566
What things would people switch out from this setup? Is there anything of significantly higher value at a slightly higher price point?
Cheers,
P.S. Somebody commented on my last post that playing MP3s through a system like this would be a waste, I'm not sure I agree. But we can all agree that if you have good speakers / amps, then there is more headroom for getting better sound if/when I upgrade my inputs.
Edit, and some other integrated amp options I was looking at last night (to replace the Onkyo receiver). I maaay have been a little drawn to pretty silver amps with VU meters on the front.
Since the other rooms are stereo you would use something like this and use chromecast audios or alexa dots as the source for each zone. If you wanted to spend a bit more you can do sonos connect preamps
OSD Audio MX1260 12 Channel, Six Stereo Zones, 60 Watt Peak per Channel, or Bridged Mono 80 Watts per Zone/Channel, Includes a choice of direct input or Dual Universal Bus Inputs selectable per per channel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S3PY9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sW1cBbBX4Z8Z5
Then a receiver for the living room since it is 5.1
Tiny is hard. Especially in a 2.0 where a sub isn't what you want. The volume knob thing also makes it interesting.
CovoS's and a Nobsound might be your best bet.
There's a couple of ways you could do it.
That receiver is a box that basically contains the parts I mentioned in the first option, but you could also add a home theater speakers to it. You would also need to make sure whatever receiver you used had the option for RCA inputs and HDMI output. Sometimes you can get lucky and find one at Goodwill or the Salvation Army for a very cheap price.
Well, I might've found you something with Bluetooth that isn't too bad: http://amzn.com/B00FJWKZP4
Otherwise, I would say look into NAD C 316BEE (no I don't work for NAD, they just make great stuff for the money). It's a bit above your budget, but close to it.
Nob sound and review
or lepia and review
Do you have any thoughts on the Marantz NR1506? Seems to check all the boxes and I'm getting a sub-$200 deal for it (used from an acquaintance). But otherwise you are probably right. Most of them are super expensive. Amazon link here: https://www.amazon.com/Marantz-NR1506-Surround-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00ZRVY0VW
Onkyo TX-NR656 7.2 Channel Network A/V Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D86TLES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9iOHAb5MMK71K
OK 1st off, how serious are you? What's your endgame? What do you think of these?
Check this out at Amazon.com - Denon AVRX3400H 7.2 Channel Full 4K Ultra HD Network AV Receiver with HEOS black, Works with Alexa (Discontinued by Manufacturer) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Z9ZGSZ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_VctkDbJAAJS8B
Check this out at Amazon.com - Denon AVRX4400H 9.2 Channel Full 4K Ultra HD Network AV Receiver with HEOS black, Works with Alexa (Discontinued by Manufacturer) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Z6VT1C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_JhtkDb6S7W19S
Theyre each a generation behind which means you'll be getting pretty much 98 percent of the current line up for 50 percent of the price.
ok what do you think of these?
Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473000849&sr=8-1&keywords=PSW10
Center channel https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-T30-Channel-Speaker/dp/B013LIN554/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473000909&sr=8-1&keywords=Polk+T30
Speakers 2 https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-T15-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B002RJLHB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473000961&sr=8-1&keywords=Polk+T15
Receiver https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-VSX-531-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01G5XKNKW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473001336&sr=8-1&keywords=Pioneer+VSX-531
Or this one https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-SR353-5-1-Channel-V-Receiver/dp/B01CZW7OD6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473001621&sr=8-1&keywords=Onkyo+TX-SR353
or even this one https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V381BL-Receiver-Black/dp/B01BY7YOAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473001715&sr=8-1&keywords=yamaha+RX-V381
or https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V481BL-Receiver-Black/dp/B01BY7YPBC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473002972&sr=8-1&keywords=Yamaha+RX-V481
I have NHT speakers and have been very happy with them. This would work for you.
NHT Super One for your left and right ($206 /pair)
https://www.amazon.com/NHT-SuperOne-2-1-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00LJX4HCY
NHT Super Center ($130)
https://www.amazon.com/NHT-Super-Center-Channel-Speaker/dp/B00QHDC32C
NHT Super Zero for your left and right surround ($120/pair)
https://www.amazon.com/NHT-SuperZero-2-1-Mini-Monitor-Speaker/dp/B00CKNOYWK
HSU VTF2-MK5 12" Subwoofer ($509)
http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-2mk5.html
Yamaha RX-V485 Receiver ($350)
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V485BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-MusicCast/dp/B07CF9H3KW
Total is $1315 leaving you some money for shipping of the sub, some speaker wire, and banana plugs.
You could find some way to hook them up to one amplifier, by connecting some in series and some in parallel, such that you present the amp approximately an 8Ω load, but don't do it. Basically, once you turn the volume up at all, it will explode. Smoke and burning things will be involved.
You need at least three amplifiers for those speakers, preferably 6. Or one amplifier designed for that purpose (which is actually just a few amps in one box). Here's a good search to start with. You're looking for a distribution amplifier or multi-zone amplifier.
If you happen to have 3 or 6 stereo amplifiers just lyin around then you could theoretically do that... just split the input using Y cables between all of them (hacky but it works) and power each as normal. Only do this if you really can't afford a proper amp.
/r/audio might be of more help, we're mostly interested in stereo and audio quality here.
*edit: Hey, look what I found! A 12-channel distribution amp that looks great. If you/your boss can afford this, just get it, it will do what you need.
*edit2: One more option: if you have a powerful stereo amplifier (of, let's say, greater than 100 watts per channel, for example this one from Onkyo) then you could use this 6-zone impedance-protecting multi-channel speaker switch to safely power all speakers with it. But note that it might not get very loud, and you need a sturdy powerful amplifier to actually pull that off.
Looking to replace my 4 channel integrated amp used for music and home theater.
My Rotel RA971 is on its last legs, though it performs wonderfully otherwise. I use the two extra channels to power two rear speakers for "surround sound". With that in mind, would it be better to get a receiver, which is meant for surround sound? Does a receiver do surround sound better than a 4 channel amp?
These are the two I'm comparing right now, suggestions are welcome:
http://www.amazon.com/Marantz-NR1504-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B00BLZDKX2
http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-9050-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B009JBZFVK
This thread is your friend: https://www.reddit.com/r/Zeos/comments/43mn1n/guide_desktop_20_speaker_systems/
For an amplifier, I had just purchased Nobsound: http://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Stereo-Receiver-Amplifier/dp/B00W9H9W42/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1462727572&sr=1-1&keywords=nobsound
It works perfectly and does everything it says. A no-brainer for a cheap setup, but you still need to buy or get a 12-24V 3A+ power supply. You can use an old laptop charger if it suits the need.
https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-X3600H-Automation-Integration-Monitoring/dp/B07RR6WQBW?tag=slickdeals&ascsubtag=06b7d72ccb0f11e9a97ab624ff9acd3a0INT
I'm considering the following for pairing with my Monitor Rx8's. Budget is ~500:
Which of those do you guys like best? Should I be considering another reciever?
this year's model is only $250
Reliability with Pioneer is still several cuts above Onkyo, but this far into entry level territory I would consider any AVR to be made as cheaply as possible and to last about as long as their warranty period.
This is my receiver. I saved $400 by getting a refurb. This is about as entry-level as you want to go for a finished basement HT. Enough power to give you 60-70 watts per channel all driven and around a hundred in stereo. Just to give you an idea of what to consider in the future.
Whoops, I sent you to the tech support thread instead of the purchase thread but will try to answer your question here anyways.
I'd dump the splitter and four BT speaker plan completely. What I would look at is a pair of Micca COVO-S with one of these Nobsound Mini Amps. It should all be small enough to fit beneath a bed.
I'm looking to combine the logitech Z906 system with a VSX-832 Pioneer receiver.
So-far, the receiver has been working very well with the satellite and centre speakers from the Z906 kit, but I have yet to figure out a way to connect the Z906 sub-woofer to the receiver.
This blog post appears to show it being done, but I'm still trying to understand the setup described.
---
My two main ideas haven't panned out:
Neither results in any bass sounds from the Z906 sub, while it's powered on by the Z906 console, and set to the appropriate input source with maxed out volume.
---
My question is: Which ports of the VSX-832 and Z906 sub-woofer should be connected and with which types of cables/converters?
I’m gonna have to get some of my favorite albums of all time. The live album is what got me into him in the first place is because I feel like a dumbass haha. Pioneer A-10(K), Yamaha A-S201, Denon PMA520AE or an AV receiver with a phono pre amp to make the upgrade when I get my new record player.
this is perfect except for the price
It’s all relative but yes they are
If you can still run wires then look into something like this
If not then this Buy you won’t have the same functionality as the other.
Both will also need a source, the former will allow for multiple sources. Like a sonos:connect or HEOS link or a CD player. Bluetooth is only ~30’ so I don’t really love that as your source.
I was looking at this
But I've seen mixed reviews on onkyo
Onkyo TX-NR656 7.2 Channel Network A/V Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D86TLES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2KKxzbNK58YYR
I am looking for the same kind of solution in the same budget with an additional requirement: the ability to switch between speakers and headphones with a physical switch.
Here is a thread at ASR with some relevant options: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/dac-with-physical-output-selection-switch.6336/
Two solutions seem to stand out:
As most people here I tend to prefer passive speakers.
I might go for the VX1 unless I can find an alternative with a more modern USB implementation.
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I like the X2300. Should I be concerned that they are only 95 watts per channel? As opposed to the Onkyo TX-NR656 that would give me 170 watts per channel.
For $799 Amazon has the x4400 (Tim Allen grunt)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Z6VT1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5Ie6CbMMJBEA4
the answer on the v385 is that it does not. it seems to be lacking the networking features required. i'm sending it back and have order the 485. will report back on its viability.
the information reported was that the rx-v85 series av receivers would support airplay 2. this is only partly true. i would consider the 385 to be part of the series. i believe the key is that the receiver needs to support MusicCast
485 with MusicCast:
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V485BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-MusicCast/dp/B07CF9H3KW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rx-v485&qid=1558698583&s=gateway&sr=8-3
385 without MusicCast:
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V385-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B07BNXXJKB/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=rx-v385&qid=1558698623&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Ouch, you spent $500 on a soundbar. And then almost $200 on rear speakers. AND THEN $500 ON THAT SUB.
> I guess for this price point I was looking to be blown away and honestly, it does sound better but if I'm giving a grade of improvement it's marginal.
Yeah, soundbars are pretty bad.
I'm glad you came here. First things first, everything you bought is garbage. Return it while you still can. I know you said "I don't want to return it" but there's no other way to get something that sounds good.
I'll assume we have a budget of around $1200 to work with, and you're looking for a home theater/TV setup. Correct me if I'm wrong though. I assume this because music listening isn't done with rear speakers.
Alright, so first things first, you need a receiver to hook everything up. This Denon will do the trick. If you want, get it refurbished for half the price. If you need Alexa, you're looking at this one for $280.
Alright, subwoofer is next. HSU is the way to go.
That leaves us with $650.
If you've been around here or r/hometheater, you may have noticed a lot of Klipsch. This is because they have extremely good vocal clarity and dynamics, which are excellent for movies and TV.
Klipsch R-51M for front LR.
Klipsch R-41M for surrounds.
Klipsch R-52C for center.
This will be far better than your soundbar setup.
You should choose whatever speaker stands are in in your budget wich are aesthetically pleasing to you and have the right size for your needs. I would spent between 30 - 100 bucks, unless you find some really beautiful ones. Ideally you would build them yourself.
Any copper cable in between 12 - 14 awg will do. Doesn't need to be full copper but it doesn't hurt. Do not overspend on cables! Something like the Micca Speaker wire (cable) will do.
Receivers; do you want stereo or 5.1 (or even more channels)? The typical brands are Denon, Onkyo, and Yamaha (for example Denon, Onkyo, Yahama). Choose one with all the options you want and inputs you need.
If you want a sub, the usual recommendations are the BIC America F12, BIC V1020 and the Dayton Audio Sub-1000.
Perhaps something like the Onkyo TX-NR656. Sounds like it would cover most of your needs/requirements, and more.
Ok, I definitely misspoke earlier regarding a lack of tube preamps with a digital in. As Uncle_Erik pointed out above youll want a tube DAC which are fairly readily available.
This SMSL looks good
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-T1-Optical-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B06WP6357W/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1492637733&sr=8-7&keywords=vacuum+tube+DAC
>
for stereo, theres nothing wrong with using ARC to the TV. the TV remote does everything including turning the receiver on and off. simple.
Can you explain this a little further? I was thinking of buying this receiver.
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-VSX-531-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01G5XKNKW/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
I really like the idea of being able to use my TV remote for everything.
Another thing to consider: The Xonar Essence ST comes with a DAC, so when i have a little more cash I could connect it to something like the Little Dot MK3
They look like speaker binding posts, one pair for each of two speakers. Example. This means that the device you buy for it has to provide power to the speakers for them to work. You would need something like this bluetooth amplifier. If you browse through the images, you can see that the amplifier has 4 binding posts as well to connect to the 4 in the wall.
You'll need two pairs for speaker wires to connect. Example
I've been looking for a good receiver that can handle a lot of my video game devices as well as bluetooth/streaming services, has 7.1 (at least) and can do multiple zones in my house.
I've basically got it down to 2 options:
Anyone have any advice between the 2? I like the more robust because it has A/V input/output options which would be great for my vintage video game systems but certainly saving 200 bucks would rule. Any advice is appreciated.
Going to toss a lot of info at you and some recs, if you have specific questions let me know:
The problem is that unlike graphics cards, audio gear is rarely objectively reviewed. Take for example the graphics cards. You can measure the FPS or time to render pretty simply in a benchmark. Only a handful of really good publications test speakers in a real objective manner.
From speakers there's lots to design aspects that aren't advertised and vary in quality. Just giving a generic frequency response doesn't really tell you how linear it will be in it for example. It doesn't tell you the distortion of the system. It doesn't tell you the max SPL prior to xmech limitations on the woofer. They don't tell you the polar response or on/off axis FR typically.
In amplifier land different manufactures and try and cheat to make distortion look better, or that they have more power than they really do.
Subwoofers sometimes don't tell you their real roll-off, some have port chuffing, and some won't advertise their max SPL (and if they do, not necessarily honestly).
Speaker requirements also vary based on use. What works on a desktop system will not necessarily work in a larger HT, and what works in a larger HT won't necessarily work on the other. The goal is to maximize benefits and minimize the compromises to ones you can work around.
When looking at a desktop system, you can use smaller bookshelves which may be a bit cheaper as you're not fighting for headroom. Reaching a desired SPL at 40hz and at 3' vs 10' is a big difference. For a subwoofer, I'd say the minimum price new is going to be $250 for something decent. This pricepoint has some that can reach into 25-35hz typically at roll-off, and while not true 20hz (or below) performance can get you readily close. You'll need an AVR to add bass management, so a decent refurb runs about $200 or new at ~$200-500 based on features. You don't need a lot of power on a desktop system, and if only running two channels some will do a solid 80W FTC (FTC means full bandwidth measurement for power at a fixed distortion level). This also means you could upgrade later to a 5.1. For the speakers, you'll want to reach a minimum of 80hz and be linear. The frequency response above 80hz on and off-axis is extremely important, but many don't publish this data. I know Chane (under response) and Ascend (under measurements) do. If it retains a good match of linearity on and off axis it means the drivers and crossovers are well matched. With the Ascend on sale they are likely a little bit cheaper shipped, but they also don't have the extension much past 80hz. They do seem slightly more linear though not both are acceptable. They are larger footprint wise, which if desk space is at a premium the Chane might be better for.
What if you took them into a higher distance setting like HT? Well the sensitivity on the Chane is lower so it requires more power to reach the same loudness. Assuming that they aren't mechanically limited by the smaller driver and that distortion isn't a major concern, the next concern is general headroom under duress. Due to the lower sensitivity of the Chane, it requires more power to make up the difference. This means you'd need a larger amplifier, and you need to pump more power to make up the difference. At first this doesn't sound like a big deal, but there's power compression as well. This means that as the voicecoil gets hotter the resistance increases and with it, the sensitivity gets reduced further, which requires more power to make-up. You'll get additional losses, but not as much as the initial compression. The problem is whether the voicecoil will accept the additional power without burning up and if you have enough power.
Considering this, the one with the best sensitivity is the best for larger rooms/further distance listening positions.
An advantage of the Chane though, especially on the desktop system, is the additional extension reaches to 50hz solidly. Given, being at a desk setup the max SPL you'll likely get before motor constraints at 50hz is ~91-95dB which should be enough. If you go this route you can get a cheaper integrated amplifier without bass management, say the TX-8020 for $150.
See the balancing act even when looking at a relatively simple system? As the budget goes up, even more options open. Typically the advantages come down to more headroom, lower distortion, more extension, better polar response, tighter FR tolerance to linearity - assuming objective performance was the goal. That's for the speaker side which has the most variance. Some invest more in their engineering and generally objective standards than others. You can spend thousands on really bad speakers too.
I haven't addressed concerns like distortion as I think both are perfectly fine on that front (competent designers), but that could be another concern with different speaker.
So, if going brand new the general price range is:
~$350 speakers + $250 sub + $200-500 AVR = $800-1100
With Refurb AVR instead:
~$350 speakers + $250 sub + $100-200 AVR = $700-800
Benefits of above options:
True bass management, possibly room to expand into larger rooms for HT with Ascend's - maybe Chanes as well depending on distance/size of room. Also get a DAC built in, able to use most digital connections like toslink, coax, HDMI.
Cons: Cost, possibly larger size.
Strict desktop setup without sub:
~$350 Chane + $150 stereo receiver = $500
Benefits of above:
Smaller footprint, simplicity, cheaper.
Cons: No bass management, no digital inputs.
Strict desktop without sub alt. suggestion:
~$350 Chane + $200 Refurb or new AVR = $550
Benefits:
Bass Management for future upgrades, digital input
Cons: slightly more expensive.
Now, you might be freaking out about a stereo speaker pair recommendation for ~$500 without even offering a sub. Remember the specs I linked you to earlier on the Chane? Pull those up. Now, this isn't your exact logitech setup but is indicative of the performance. See Strategic Deceivers break-down of a logitech setup here. They reach to about 50hz at their best, and are no-where near linear doing it. They consisted of boom and sizzle. So even a stereo Chane bookshelf system is likely a solid advantage in sound quality. I don't want you to think you must get a subwoofer as even this is a good upgrade.
I haven't even got into room acoustics yet, but at this point the speakers and associated equipment should be the primary concern - and it all depends on how deep you want to go down the rabbit hole.
Links to recommended gear:
AVR: Integra DTR-20.4 for refurb rec or Onkyo TX-SR373 for new.
Subwoofer: BIC F12
Speakers: Chane A1.4 or Ascend CBM170
Stereo Receiver: Onkyo TX-8020
Hi all,
Looking for some feedback on a setup I'm shooting for.
Turntable - Fluance RT 82 - $299.99 https://www.fluance.com/rt82w-reference-high-fidelity-vinyl-turntable-natural-walnut
Receiver - Pioneer VSX832 - $219.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5M9WQD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WYAZDb5P91DV1
Speakers - KEF Q150 - $299.99
https://us.kef.com/q150-bookshelf-speaker.html
I'll also add some stands for the speakers on the side so that will be part of the cost. I live in a condo so not really planning for the subwoofer just yet but would upgrade later on.
Any thoughts? How did I do? Not looking to spend anymore but would be open to spend less for something equivalent or better. I also will have the speakers shared with my uhdtv.
Does this one on Amazon ship from America or does it still ship from China?
Yeah, I bought it expecting it to be pretty half ass, but sound quality is good, and it doesn't seem to have a problem being left on and running 24/7 for the last month.
That start up jingle though... wow it's tacky
http://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Stereo-Receiver-Amplifier/dp/B00W9H9W42/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450375693&sr=8-1&keywords=nobsound
Those speakers are very efficient. You could blow yourself out of the room with a receiver that provides as little 50 watts/ch.
Something like this ought to be fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Atmos-Ready-Component-Receiver-VSX-832/dp/B06Y5M9WQD
I love my Schiit 2 Uber stack currently
I'd recommend probably Schiit Modi 2 > Valhalla 2/Little Dot MK3
Sennheiser HD 600 Open Back Professional Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SY4H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yPtvybN37P7A8
Little Dot MK III Headphone Tube Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CHIKIDM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2PtvybZPN07K7
I've got a the schitt modi u on the way too. -_-
Following some advice I got in here a while back, I held off for a while, but am now ready to start building a good beginner system. Currently, from reading reviews I'm looking at this set-up:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/PRO-JECT-13205-Essential-Turntable-Black/dp/B00DKSUHO8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Acoustics-2020i-loudspeakers-bookshelf-Universal/dp/B006SYZEBW/ref=cm_rdp_product
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007Y3OBF6/ref=twister_B008UT5O6S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My questions really:
Is this everything I need to get started (minus things like speaker cables obviously)?
Will this all work together? I know they're 4/6ohm speakers and an 8ohm amp that can also put out 4.
This setup isn't set in stone, but it is definitely around the price I am looking to pay unless I am actually missing a necessary component. Other gear suggestions of a similar price could also be considered.
Thanks
> What the best way to listen to music at home?
CD's are still alive and well, and are lossless in their playback. If you have a large library of CD's, you could absolutely grab one of those large multi-cd changers that Sony made in the 90's (I gifted my father a 400CD one) that will let you program each album.
The smart choice is to digitize all your media. FLAC is the obvious choice given it's wide support. The two leading technologies in streaming audio from a local server are Apple Airplay and DLNA. Simply grab an Airplay or DLNA capable receiver to make it easy, or grab a dedicated network audio streamer that would connect to another amplifier.
Connecting your systems directly via USB/Optical is really a thing of the past, as it is clunky and inconvenient. Stick to network streaming.
An amplifier that does this for a reasonable price is the Marantz NR1506.
That only leaves you $500 for speakers, so the best way to meet that budget while still getting great gear is probably going to be used. Could you link your local CL or equivalent?
The AT's are the perennial favorite for cheap headphones, but my suggestion is going to be to go see what you like. See what your preference is, open or closed, on ear or over ear, etc. The what it's worth, the price of the highly regarded Sennheiser HD600/650 is falling fast due to Massdrop's release of the HD6XX, and may be worth a look.
For your budget you will have to buy regular home stereo type equipment. I would go find your cheapest audio store and look for a couple pairs of speakers similar to these and an amp like this.
The reason for that speaker choice is the size. Anything smaller will sound weak and pointless. Those will probably sound pretty good. It doesn't have to be that exact speaker, but I would use it to compare. It is very important to listen to speakers before you buy them. They can look the same on paper but sound totally different in comparison. This is where you should spend most of your money if you want the best result.
The reason for that amplifier is that it is simple, fairly inexpensive, and MOST important, it is happy to run your speakers at 4Ω, so you can hook up all your speakers to the same amplifier. In this case make sure you are getting an amp that can either do that, or that has connections for 4 front speakers (NOT surround sound!).
You will also need to budget for speaker wire too.
If you don't like any of this then you might be more interested in something like this.
I would go to a local shop and listen to some systems in the price range you budget and see what you like. It is very hard to compare Watts alone since, as you pointed out, they are measured in different ways and advertisers like to make it confusing.
If it's fulfilled by Amazon (you'll see that next to the "sold by__"), then you have Amazon's return policy to back you up, so I don't see why not. Even many items sold and shipped by Amazon directly do the same thing (for example, this item, which is manufactured by Denon but sold and shipped by Amazon).
If it's sold and shipped by a third party seller, you'll want to check out their specific return policy (some follow Amazon's return policy, some have their own) and check out their feedback before deciding.
In general how is Marantz? I'm looking at getting into the 4k scene so naturally my receiver has to be upgraded. Was looking at this: Marantz NR1506. Thanks!
Thanks! One last thing - would this receiver do the trick with the Chanes and a sub? I'm looking for something with HDMI 2.0 in case I end up needing it for 4K down the line, and this has it. Also, is it worth it to buy refurbished, and should I get the 2/3 year warranty for 10/20 bucks?
Thanks for humoring me!
Hello,
I'm building a home stereo/5.1 setup from "scratch." I've decided on my speakers. Seen here.
Now what I'm left figuring out is my receiver. And deciding if I'm in need of an amplifier on top of it..
Looking for: Receiver/Amplifier
Budget: Around $500CAN
Source: Computer - Soundcloud, Netflix, etc.
Material: Movies/TV. House, Breakbeat, Drum&Bass, and Trance music
I'm trying to decide between these currently, but am open to suggestions;
Pioneer VSX-830-K
Onkyo TX-NR646
Denon AVR-S510BT
Marantz NR1504 Which has refurb units up for $350, vs $800 for new units. Leaning towards this one but I'm unsure.
Thank you,
Question regarding streaming. I have a pair of the Buchardt S400s hooked up to an Onkyo TX-8270. The Onkyo is then hooked up to my TV through an HDMI cable (using HDMI ARC). The TV is also then hooked up to an Apple TV through another HDMI.
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For the past few months, I had been using Spotify Premium to "cast" (to the Onkyo right from my phone. It sounded pretty good to me. However, yesterday I happened to use the Apple TV to play something "through" the TV and the speakers sounded much better and much louder, fuller, etc. Before, I would play them around volume 70 and it would be comfortable. Now, I'm running them around 50 (on receiver) and it's really loud.
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Any idea why there would be such a difference?
Ok I think I'll hold off on the Bottlehead then. (My concern was that nothing else in the price range could compare, but if it's that close I definitely want to explore other non-DIY options.)
Ultimately though I'm hoping that this new setup will be an improvement over my unamped M50s haha
Edit (one more question!): What is the best way to order from Little Dot? Their forum shows a price of $189 + $45 shipping for the Mk3
(http://www.littledot.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=815&sid=cd329dcc74ac9c971f25ef4d1b2f1fba)
while Amazon shows $289 + free shipping
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CHIKIDM/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=046WYFJT8RKP10BSQ0WV&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846).
Which one of these is more legit?
Thanks for the advice. I'm going to a local store I trust today but how does the (730)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XYHTQTH/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile#] compare to the 1300 you mentioned?
We're currently using the Onkyo for 5.1, but we just ordered this to replace it.
The onkyo will be for my speakers, and I knew about the remote thing, just somehow the at&t remote always wants to change the volume on the tv rather than the receiver.
Thanks for the info, I'll tell my dad that the new receiver will have better surround.
Edit: Also, how is the headphone amp on it? Decent quality?
Any one have experience with or any gripe with the Marantz NR1506
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZRVY0VW/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_1?colid=3R3HOY6I1VQY&coliid=I1J3NHZMW99U1E
This is sort of subjective. You ask for the highest quality and ROI. In my opinion, you can get this for well under your budget.
Denon x3600 for $1100
HTD level 3 floor standing speakers for $899.
Matching center for $229.
Throw $2k at a SVS PB13 Ultra
Total cost: Just under $4300
This will be an AMAZING sound system
https://smile.amazon.com/Onkyo-Certified-7-1-Channel-Surround-HT-S9800THX/dp/B073VLKMPW/
Onkyo THX Certified 7.1-Channel Surround Sound Speaker System Black (HT-S9800THX)
$1299
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OR
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https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XTYXH9M/
Onkyo TX-NR676 7.2 Channel Network A/V Receiver
$309
+
https://smile.amazon.com/Klipsch-HDT-600-Home-Theater-System/dp/B008CMVY7Q/
Klipsch HDT-600 Home Theater System
$400
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Check these amps from Outlaw Audio. They are a very well-known and respected company and their products are very good and affordable. (https://www.outlawaudio.com/products/amps.html) I am using the Model 5000 for my height speakers. The whole how much power do I need question isn't too tough to figure out. You just need to do a bit of reading. This article is good. (https://www.lifewire.com/power-needed-for-speakers-3134849) The 5000 is only $599 but gives you a nice amount of power. You can then buy a budget receiver like this (https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVRS730H-Receiver-wireless-technology/dp/B06XYHTQTH/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537406613&sr=8-1&keywords=Denon+AVR-S730). Make sure if you do buy a receiver it has a set of "pre-out" jacks. If it doesn't you can't hook up a separate power amplifier. Most but not all receivers have the jacks, but definitely check before you buy. Or you could just buy a surround pre-amplifier to pair with the 5000.
Marantz NR1504 has 2.1 channel pre-outs. Only Surround Sound Preproccessors, such as the Onkyo PR-SC5530, have XLR outs, but no internal amp section, so you would need a separate amp for surround. I suggest you connect the unbalanced (RCA) outs from the Marantz to their respective channels, (Left to Left, Right to Right, LFA to LFA) to get the best results.
For around there you'd be better off with a big 2.0 system, in my opinion.
Something like 2 of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EHUFLI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1381144297&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
And then one of these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FJWKZP4/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER