(Part 2) Best bathroom sink & bathtub drain strainers according to redditors

There are actual drain repair kits that slide into the pipe, or go over the outside, without clamps. You may not have to open the cement:

https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-03-1224-WingTite-Replacement-Install/dp/B008E338FY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

http://www.davke.com/davke-4000/

And yes, I wanted to dig up his rotting corpse and bitch-slap the crap out of him....

cheaper on Amazon

Can do something like a washing machine drain pan coupled with a leak detector and automatic shut off valve.

It's a trap!

You 100% do NOT need access from underneath. This is something you can easily do yourself right from the top side.

/u/chrisbrl88 is right on the money.......if the drain cooperates. Looking at yours though it is old and beat up so it might not remove so easily. I encountered the same thing. Inevitably the cross piece that most removal tools use will snap off and you wont be able to do much.

Get yourself one of these instead: https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Tool-04500-Unlocking-Installing/dp/B000WUBLO2/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=tub+drain+removal+tool&qid=1569444540&sr=8-15

It goes inside the drain and expands to give you a better grip. Having a heat gun handy will also help to loosen it up. I had to put a wrench on it and sit in the tub and push the wrench with my feet to finally get it to budge.

They sell drains that would go the whole length of the garage with grates on them. Something like this might help

Source 1 Drainage Trench & Driveway Channel Drain with Galvanized Steel Grate - 3 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006YVE71W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2pyRBb17CQHAK

This is what I recommend.


That and a 2" BAP adapter.

You could try one of these but I admit I’ve never used it so I don’t know how well the hair-catch feature on it will work. It sits on the crossbars after you’ve unscrewed the plug from the drain.

> Hair

100% agree!
I ran into this nifty solution for hair problems...
TubShroom and SinkShroom Drain Protectors

I guess it was a rushed job, as right behind the toilet is this https://imgur.com/a/64x60ot
This is it when it's slightly flooded, it's actually a pathway where you can walk and that there's a drain on the right side (picture overflowed). Sometimes it gets much higher than this, which is when the water goes in from the floor drain. Would something like https://www.amazon.com/Backflow-Preventer-Toilet-Bathroom-Silicone/dp/B075WRS7VW work?

would this work?

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073QJ4P9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3GVZCb2NH3JFX

Here's a similar one. Its an ice guard for your basement.

Freeze Drain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXKIB5S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_E6yByb8ARKSXQ

You could likely clean the corrugated black pipe with a standard drain snake or one of these "drain king" decloggers.

Thanks for tipping me off to the existence of the triple wall pipe.

yeah something like that is what I need. That link you sent, had this on the "customers who bought this also looked at" section.


thanks!

for an easy solution, you could go with something like this dome grate. The obvious downside to that it sticks up in the middle of your sidewalk.

A better option would be to saw off the last few inches of the sidewalk panel and add a trench drain. This would give you significantly more surface area and reduce the likelihood of clogging. I'm picturing something like this drain that I saw in an episode of Ask This Old House

Drain King saved me $15k. 3 plumbers and someone from the water department all said that the main drain pipe at my house must’ve collapsed when it backed up... nope. It was frozen, and some hot water through this bad boy fixed it.

You don’t need that unless you need to stop the tub. We have the same stopper and you’ll lose your mind having to unclog hair from the tub every month. You want a strainer! Not a foot actuated stopper, unless someone is taking baths every other day.

I’m not sure how to reassemble that stopper.

Install one of these:

drain cover

I have the linear drain sitting recessed into the concrete with the lip sitting above the concrete about 3/8" because the tile sits inside the linear drain (you cut the tile to fit inside and recess down into that drain). In order for it to be flush the drain has to be higher than the concrete unless I'm missing something. Here is a picture of the linear drain installed (product image) and you'll see the walls of the drain are flush with the tile. Here is a link to the drain on Amazon.

\> And out of curiosity, if you're doing a topical membrane why the 2 pours?

I am just verifying that a topical membrane is "enough" and if I am missing anything.

I do see what you're saying about cutting the channel larger (potentially) and then waterproofing and reinserting. I'm going to investigate that in the morning.

There's actually a tool for removing those. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tub-Drain-Remover-HDX170/204218645 Of course, I don't know if it will work since you broke off one of its 4 attachment points. If that's the case, they also make another expanding tool to unscrew it from the inside. https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Tool-04500-Unlocking-Installing/dp/B000WUBLO2/ref=pd_sim_469_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000WUBLO2&pd_rd_r=GBZ9V6R7EQQ9KW6TN2QY&pd_rd_w=n7Bxb&pd_rd_wg=ZOVQi&psc=1&refRID=GBZ9V6R7EQQ9KW6TN2QY

Finally, if your tub's ell is some uncommon size and you can't find a new strainer for it, try Watco. http://watcomfg.com/watco/ They make kits and adapters for a whole bunch of old tubs.

i was thinking about making a wood base and then using one of these http://www.amazon.com/Camco-20762-Washing-Machine-Stackable/dp/B00EOX2KZ2/ref=pd_sim_hi_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MNF3CVR9HV13BCE70AT with a hose to the edge and some sod on top of it? but i like your set up too

Sorry in advance for the novel, unless you're into that kind of thing. Bear in mind again, this isn't professional advice by any means. I've just been researching this as we'll be planning and applying for a grant from our local sewer district very soon so I've been through a couple of courses and doing as much research as possible. In other words, I'm the most dangerous person on the internet and professionals hate me, but only because they have to fix what I've screwed up :).

We're also in the Midwest which means a good measure of rain in the spring. It looks as though you have a fair amount of roof to account for. You can use drainage guides like this to account for the ~exact amount of runoff your roof will yield during a storm. I've seen calculations where they say "take the square footage of your roof and multiply that by the number of inches rain you got and that's how much runoff you have!". It's not quite that simple as rain isn't (generally) an instantaneous figure but rather multiplied over time.

Q = (C x I x A) / 96.23 where

>Q = Storm Water Runoff (in gallons per minute, gpm)

>C = Coefficient of Runoff

>I = Rainfall Intensity (in inches per hour)

>A = Area of Drainage Zone (in square feet)

I like simple logic problems like this so if you DON'T, you can just take the square footage of your roof and multiply it by the average rainfall per rain event i.e. 600 square feet of roof x .5" rain = ~187 gallons of water :). This, in conjunction with the square footage per downspout, will give you a pretty good indicator of how much water you'll be dealing with on which parts of your property. The street is probably sloped from the center line down and you should also include your driveway and any applicable graded turf as most lawn turf isn't all that permeable in anything but the lightest misting.

Say for example your roof, driveway, street, and turf have a cumulative runoff of 500 gallons in a 1/2" rainfall. If ~200 of that comes from your roof, this is the water you can control. Depending on the number of downspouts you have in use, 2-4 50+ gallon rain catch barrels will easily soak up the 200 gallons in runoff just from your roof lines. Any overflow from those barrels can be run to that 4" pipe you mentioned which routes into the back yard.

Regarding the driveway, if you don't have them already I would look into trenched drainage systems. this would allow you to grade your driveway (per the image) from left to right so that any runoff from the street and drive routes to that pipe which runs along the side of your garage. Other than permeable pavement solutions ($$$$) there isn't much you can do with driveway runoff other than mitigate it. On that note, your 4" drain pipe may be sufficient but you can use calculators like this one to ascertain whether or not a larger 6" drain would be needed. Also keep in mind if you have silt or debris issues at the base of your drive where it meets the garage you'll need to get that addressed before you add any drains so you don't foul the pipes down stream with garbage.

Back to rain gardens. To use the 5'x20' example from my first post, a 100 square foot rain garden dug even 9" into the ground will give you ~75 cubic feet of reservoir or 100 cubic feet if you can make it a foot deep. This isn't just storage though as any plant matter you include in the garden will aid in slowing and soaking up storm water runoff. The average root depth of most turf grass is about as deep as the grass itself. However even smaller, decorative plants can have root structures many times their depth. These types of root structures will absorb an order of magnitude more runoff than turf grass and help maintain slope health of your yard (depending on the grade coming down from the street and whether or not you have erosion issues). You can either plant along side the driveway or plant parallel to the street so that the majority of the turf/street runoff is caught. Any rain garden requires an overflow which could then be tied into your driveway drain or drain on the other side of the driveway.

Since this will be a DIY scenario (as will ours) most of the cost will be in landscaping materials like plants and stone, but you can use the comparatively cheaper dry wells and rain barrels in conjunction with one another to form a kind of mesh runoff mitigation network. Say the rain barrels affixed directly to the gutters catch 200 gallons and you have a rain garden (or two or three, they don't have to be connected) which will collect another ~100. You could dig a dry well into series between the garden and the side drain to give another 50 gallon capacity or however many gallons you choose to utilize. Out of the original 500 gallon runoff (roof, driveway, street, lawn) these collection measures would 350-400 gallons not including the somewhat unquantifiable plant and root absorption as well as the driveway trench which will definitely aid in moving the water past your foundation.

Again, sorry for the novel :). Take what you need and ignore the rest. We don't have much of a grade at all in our land, but what little slope we do have near the foundation is unfortunately tilted towards the house and poorly drained at that and I'm realizing it's not going to be a simple task. There isn't one major resolution in most cases. I understand a rain garden solution isn't for everyone, but our orientations emphasized that while a metric ton of native plants is going to be more effective than fewer plants you can still get away with a modern looking landscape so your front lawn doesn't look like a prairie. Also, I would look into natural plant species as they're far more likely to thrive in your native soil and I personally prefer perennials so I don't have to replant every damn year. Feel free to PM me with any questions, or even to seek advice from a real professional :).

I have the dollar store version of this.

Works great in our Jacuzzi tub. Both my wife and I have long hair, so it’s definitely necessary!

Clearly I’ve gotten myself in over my head. Why will the shoe need to be replaced? Assuming the old drain can come out, something like this can’t just be placed in where the old drain went? https://www.amazon.com/WingTite-Shower-Replacement-Installs-Entirely/dp/B008E338FY

I’ll call a professional tomorrow.

Consider this for FAE.

TerraBloom 4" Inline Duct Fan, Quiet Energy Saving EC Motor with 0-100% Adjustable Speed Controller. 160 CFM, 18W. Ventilation for Grow Tents, Odors Exhaust, Heating and Cooling Duct Booster. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNGS2V7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gWcSDb5DQ5T3H

This for underneath the chamber.

Camco Front-Load Washing Machine Drain Pan, Protects Your Floor from Washing Machine Leaks, OD 30.5" x 34.5" x 1.64" (20786) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOX2IRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NXcSDbM2J1N3T

I had the same problem. I bought this pan for my washing machine: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOX2IRW/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is generally recommended that you do not plant directly adjacent to a house, as it promotes water being held in the soil, and bug infestations.

Also you have that NICE gravel walk way there. You could easily* install a good looking french drain along the house side of it and carry any water away from the house.

Lol damnn I think I’ll stick with what I have! This thing cost me $15 and by just putting something at the back to raise it up an inch or two all the water runs to the front.

Camco 20762 30"OD x 28" Washing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOX2KZ2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I also have two of these wire shelf things which make a perfect drain rack just high enough to slide the drain pan under

Whitmor Supreme Wide Stacking... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007MHD24?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share