(Part 2) Best beakers for labs according to redditors

For real. Nerdy science glassware is really cheap. I've always used these as mixing glasses. You can get 6 for $20.

beaker!

Homebrew Materials:

Vacuum Pump Oil

Vacuum Tubing

1/4" Barb x 1/4" NPT Male Hose Fitting

1/4" Male x 1/4" Female NPT Extension Hose

Vacuum Pump

Filters

Spatulas

Magnetic Stir Bar

Digital Hotplate with Magnetic Stirrer

Nitrile Gloves (Better than Latex)

Empty Capsules (Buy Separated unless you hate your life)

Capsule Machine (If you value your sanity, buy more than a 100... I hated my life doing this)

Mohr Pipets

Pipette 10ml

Mortar and Pestle (If you're doing orals, get this... Otherwise, you're playing Russian Roulette with your doses and liver)

Funnel (For pouring into small places)

Alconox (For clean your shit)

Temperature Gun (How hot is my shit?)

Graduated Cylinder (If you measure with beakers, you're a fucking idiot... And you should consider Volumetric Flasks)

Beaker Set

1 Liter Beaker (Because brewing en'masse is better)

Scale (I have a 2kg one, too)

Calibration Weight Set

Calibration Weight 100g (Because you need two for the scale linked)

Vacuum Regulator (Unless you want to filter 9001 times due to broken shit)

Oil (Any USP grade, filtered or unfitlered)

BB

BA

Butyl Stoppers

Flip Top Seals

Crimper

Vials (Unsealed)

Autoclave (Cheaper than an oven, why are you using an oven?!)

Weight Boats (Buy a million of these. They're cheap and useful)

Did I miss something? Probably. Yes.

https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Borosilicate-Graduated-Karter-Scientific/dp/B006VXCOD6?th=1&psc=1
............................. https://www.etsy.com/listing/628127022/multipurpose-510-cartridge-holder?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-craft_supplies_and_tools-tools_and_equipment-other&utm_custom1=_kenshoo_clickid_&utm_content=go_270947675_41952122296_190744325249_aud-537409439012:pla-295472667027_m__628127022&gclid=CjwKCAjwk7rmBRAaEiwAhDGhxPnqtNYGqkJ6Jdfs6NAtRhcsncPbwy-mHjYjTI4-Iki-WSI3PqwDQRoCAu0QAvD_BwE

.............................
https://massterpenes.com/collections/terpene-based-liquidizer-series/products/copy-of-liquefy™️-quickcartridge-starter-kit

Source: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU6XVWS/

You don't actually need a dark room, it's a common misconception. You only need that if you plan to use an enlarger and make your own prints. I don't, but only due to lack of space in my apartment - I scan them in and order prints at Costco or Bartells like any normal digital scan.

If you get one of the Paterson Reel tanks like I have in that photo, you just need a changing bag. Put your 1-2 rolls of film, a bottle opener, a pair of scissors, and all the tank pieces in the bag. Seal it up, pop open the film canister with the bottle opener, then spool the film onto the reels. Put both reels back in the tank and seal it up. Everything else can be done in daylight. (you can skip the bag and do this in a pitch black room like your bathroom or a closet if you want. I prefer the bag- I can sit on the couch and watch TV while I spool rolls).

Then you're just dumping in chemicals on a timed schedule and then unspooling and hanging them to dry when complete. B&W is roughly 13 minutes a batch at diluted 1+1, or 6 minutes at stock (full strength) solution. Stock just uses it up twice as fast, but saves time.

B&W = developer (12-15 minutes for most films at 1+1 - check the massive dev chart -> stop bath (1 minute) -> fixer (1 minute) -> rinse (2-3 minutes) -> hang to dry (2ish hours or until totally dry).

Color = developer (6ish minutes) -> blix (2-3 minutes) -> rinse (2-3 minutes) -> stabilizer (1 minute) -> hang to dry (2ish hours).

I'm pulling those numbers from memory, but the unicolor kit has a good guide with it.

Stuff you need

• D-76 developer (black and white)
  
• Stop bath (black and white)
  
• Fixer (black and white)
  
• C-41 developer kit (color)
  
• Changing bag
  
• 500ml beaker (at least 1, up to 3 for convenience)
  
• 1L beaker (at least 1, up to 3 for convenience)
  
• .5L plastic bottles (At least 6)
  
• Scissors
  
• Bottle opener
  
• Funnel (optional, if you have steady pouring hands)
  
• Paterson Reel tank
  
• Glass thermometer (optional for B&W, necessary for color)
  
• Clothespins/some string or paracord to hang film to dry
  
• A bucket (5G or so- small cleaning bucket - Color only)
  
  For B&W film - you use the 1+1 developer one time (150ml per roll of film) and dump it when you finish. Which means that 1L D-76 pouch gives you 6 rolls of film. I buy mine in the 1G bags to mix up as they're cheaper, but you need a 1G plastic bottle to store it. For color film that kit does 8-9 rolls of film. The bigger 1G kits are more expensive and you can also buy the chemicals separately. Color is picky because you need to keep it at a constant 103F the whole time or risk ruining them, hence the bucket (or a bathtub). Color developer and all other chemicals you dump back into bottles and re-use until it's used up.
  
  The color film process is actually really well documented in the booklet that comes with the unicolor kit.
  
  If you ever want a hands on trial, I can do a video of the process or a demo at my apartment (my fiance thinks it looks like I'm doing crazy mad science stuff every time)
  
  Check out /r/analog for weekly advice threads or some of these helpful links:
  
  
• Color development
  
• B&W development
  
• Massive Dev chart for B&W

1. We use two Bodum models. This and This one.
   
   
2. Every day twice.
   
   
3. Coffee, and of course, Caneton Tour d'Argent.
   
   
4. The flavors it produces and the ease of use.
   
   
5. The silt that ends up at the bottom of the cup. Doesn't really bother me that much at all, but this is literally the only thing I can possibly think of.
   
   
6. See 5 I guess. Also, the cheaper presses have plastic parts which are not durable long term, but you can buy higher quality, -I think the market will have addressed this.
   
   
7. If I'm allowed to pick a tint too I'll go with black.
   
   Side note: Since the glass press containers are prone to breaking and replacements are sold, I've often though that it would be cool to design a press housing that works with a cheap, commonly available scientific graduated beaker of some sort.
   I'm not sure if they are suitable off the shelf, (do they need some sort of tempering to deal with heat changes?), but if so, I think it would be a pretty sweet angle to approach an improvement from. They are manufactured to relatively exact specs, and they are mass produced and much cheaper than what press manufacturers sell replacements for. Also they would look cool in a press housing imho.
   
   I don't like non-glass presses.

I like these tall graduated beakers. Strong, glass and they look cool ;-)

https://www.amazon.com/PYREX-Berzelius-1000mL-Beaker-Graduated/dp/B006JGQHWO/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0ADRHXAT3VDB2W7P2B8X

If you have a small beaker or microwavable glass, you can pour the liquid in the beaker/glass and microwave it to thin out the liquid. This will make mixing it much easier as the VG is not as thick. I say microwave the liquid for 5 seconds per 15mL.

Beaker for reference: http://www.amazon.com/Beaker-Form-Glass-Graduated-50ml/dp/B00122DRPU

https://www.amazon.com/PYREX-Griffin-250mL-Beaker-Graduated/dp/B003TV9LY8

Here. And I suppose you could mix it in a vial, but I doubt it would mix very evenly. Of course there are a lot of steps, you're almost home brewing. It's not as hard in practice as it is on paper. Just follow the directions and you'll be fine.

Edit: you're gonna want this too