(Part 2) Best bike forks according to redditors
We found 59 Reddit comments discussing the best bike forks. We ranked the 46 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/sunlite-700c-road-fork-threaded-length-4-3-4-1-od-chrome-cro-mo-non-canti
http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Threaded-Chrome-bicycle-fixie/dp/B00GHXT7I0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418014480&sr=8-2
Either one. Although with shipping I'm not sure it's going to work out to be much cheaper.
You'll also want to be sure that the steerer tube length is long enough and that there's enough threading on each.
I wouldn't worry too much about the head tube size thing. I worried about it myself but then I realized, they sell decent forks in straight 1 1/8" -- like this Rockshox 30 Gold TK air fork. If I wanted any nicer of a fork I should be looking at a new bike anyway, and the better bikes and forks are all tapered.
It would be great if you could buy one perfect cheap frame and have unlimited upgradability, but you have to start somewhere. While it's not ideal, you can take a straight 1 1/8" fork and use it on your new tapered frame. Not sure how well that works but they make headset kits for it.
You may also want to look at Bottomless Tokens which will make the fork ramp up at the end of the travel and not bottom out, allowing you to use lower pressure. If your fork is a 2014, you may need the whole topcap assembly to use the tokens.
https://www.amazon.com/RockShox-Bicycle-Suspension-Bottomless-Kit/dp/B00LW8EH8K
hey man if you already have a decent set components on your bike you could maybe think about getting a fork with adjustable travel, like these? http://www.amazon.com/RockShox-Sektor-RL-Position-26-Inch/dp/B005543JS6 or something similar. Then just keep an eye out on ebay or craigslist for a frame that is more suited to longer travel forks and just transfer most of the parts over. You probably will need a bit of prior experience but if you are in any way mechanically minded it really isn't that difficult. I had very little knowledge of how bikes were put together before I decided to build my own but I found that i could do everything apart from truing wheels myself, it turned out to be a real crash course in bike mechanics which was handy as hell for general maintenance too
It doesn't even have to be expensive! Full chrome steel fork, 700c, 1-1/8 $43.99.
Amazon has a screaming deal (289 at this time) on a sid right now. Go 120, for rock shox at least it comes with a shim to shorten it if you don't like it.
I found this for under 300 for my build. It’s qr but there’s nothing wrong with that.
https://www.amazon.com/Easton-EC90XD-Fork-1-125-Matte/dp/B00BH78BDS
Does it have to be threaded? [Origin8 has a 1 in threadless model.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007BWLI4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_U7ONAbHE2Q6K2)
Wheel size? 1 inch Carbon Fiber Threadless Fork Aluminum Alloy Steer Tube Uncut https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NHX5YDU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_.XwQBb0P74Q09
this should do it for you:
https://www.amazon.com/SR-SUNTOUR-Mountain-Bike-100mm/dp/B00K2PFMI8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498722510&sr=8-3&keywords=mountain%2Bbike%2Bfork&th=1&psc=1
you'll need this to thread the handlebar stem onto the fork tube
https://www.amazon.com/FSA-Hammer-Headset-34mm-Headtube/dp/B003J7XCRO/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003J7XCRO&pd_rd_r=1H9XRKVB74WPERW31VHC&pd_rd_w=iNjqW&pd_rd_wg=m2Lw5&psc=1&refRID=1H9XRKVB74WPERW31VHC
Hey guys :)
I have This, bought in 2015 (i think) but only just started riding it properly in the last 6 months. Anyway had a pretty bad crash a few months after I bought it and the forks kinda seized up. They still have some movement but definitely not as they should be. I expect the forks that came with it (I think they are these but my bike is 27.5 so maybe a different model?) aren't great so I was looking to upgrade.
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Except I don't really know what I'm looking for. Any help? My budget is next to non-existent so cheap ideas welcome :) Thanks!
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(UK based and skinny af, if it matters..)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CW90VTM/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
120mm with adjustable pressure for $120... That's less than several solid forks I was looking at a while back.
First make sure you didn't buckle the frame as well.
Check the downtube behind the headtube and see if it's bent.
If it is you've compromised the frame and jacked the geometry and it's probably better to replace the frame/bike.
For a sub-$300 bike, I'd probably get a $50 chrome chro-mo 1" threaded fork, as that'd look pretty sweet with a white frame, but they've got them in black as well for about the same price. (If you go this route, make sure you get one with the right steerer tube length).
Assuming that your frame is undamaged, and you want to go threadless, you're still not going to have that many choices in a 1" threadless fork, as most threadless forks are 1-1/8", and the ones that are available look like they cost about 1/2 as much as your whole bike.
That said, if you really do want a 1" threadless fork, you'll need the following;
1" threadless fork
1" threadless headset
1" threadless stem (with the other end sized to fit your handlebars).
1" spacers
hacksaw / pipe cutter (to trim the steerer tube).
Good luck!
If the fork is bent, you should check the frame to make sure it is not damaged as well. Check the head tube/down tube junction for bumps, ripples, cracking paint.
The fork is 1" threaded, 700c. Threaded forks come with different length steerer tubes (the tube the goes in the frame). You will need to measure the length, and order appropriate one. You can cut a longer one down.
One thing that makes getting the right fork for your bike tricky, is that it has fat 32c tires, with a long reach caliper brake. Most 700c road forks for calipers are for shorter reach race brakes, that only fit skinnier 25-28c tires.
Since you want better brakes anyways, you might consider a cross or hybrid fork with cantilever brake bosses. This will have clearance for your fatter tires, and is a more powerful brake. You can use your existing brake lever, if they were not damaged.
You will need: allen key, 32mm headset wrench, hammer, punch, headset race seater, hacksaw, guide. Definitely go to a bike co-op for access to specialty tools.
Fork: $32
http://www.amazon.com/Ramiko-700C-Summit-200-100mm/dp/B00644738S/ref=sr_1_6?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1396464837&sr=1-6&keywords=700c+1%22+threaded+canti
Brake:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BR-CT91-Altus-Cantilever-Silver/dp/B001GSOHDQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1396464122&sr=1-1&keywords=shimano+cantilever+brakes
The guy in the repair shop wants to increase the shop's profits.
Steel is best for hub DIY, but as I have learned working on a MTB circa early 90's, not all dropouts are built alike and what worked for a lightweight wheel may get torn up by the hub. If you have any desire to keep your bike 'complete' (all original parts)... you may want to replace the fork, especially if you don't trust the dropouts. From the photos, that fork may be something like this but make sure to measure the steerer tube diameter first.
For the price-point that goblin bike is gorgeous! The fork alone is like $400. I will definitely consider it for purchase.
Sounds like a bottom end fork then.
Something like this RockShox Recon or Rock Shox XC32 would be decent but relatively inexpensive upgrades. Both would offer lockout and rebound control.
Depending on your weight you might want to change out the spring to softer or firmer.
The XC 32 is a basic fork, it used to be called the Tora fork, which I have on my bike. The nice thing is the internals on all of these are pretty interchangeable and you can upgrade them to motion control damper, and add remote lockout and rebound controls to them if you want.
Yeah but its hard to find one that's not all painted/stickered. I've still got a few months to keep an eye out on craigslist. If not I was thinking one of these... https://www.amazon.com/Nashbar-Carbon-Road-Bike-Fork/dp/B004UMESDY/ref=pd_lpo_468_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=HBSTB260PMJ85MZ4SFE5
This is it. My review is the four star review. My only beef with it is that the full lockout feels almost more than full rigid. It's great when you're riding on smooth pavement but when you hit any kind of bump you feel it even harder.