(Part 2) Best brake tools according to redditors

Flaring tool

edit: The actual one, I think

Looks like that's an addon too though. Found this ball hitch bushing for $0.75 - https://www.amazon.com/Connor-Towing-1613350--Reducer-Bushing/dp/B01456B6PW/ref=sr_1_17?s=automotive&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1473289781&sr=1-17&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_n_is-min-purchase-required%3A5016683011

That's more what we'd use to measure a rotor. For pads I use something like this to double check my techs, when things are slow the difference between 5mm and 2mm can be blurry.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015DMJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_VsjMBbZY4PV9G
A penny is about 1.5 mm thick. Two pennies equals about 3mm.

I think what you are looking for is a "Spreader."

​https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ25DHN

best money you'll ever spend if you build a lot of plumbing. Seriously: https://www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-72475-PRC-Universal-Hydraulic-Flaring/dp/B01NCYKQSN

Not sure why your speed bleeders didn't work but I've used this device with great success. I bled the entire system on my car in 20 minutes by myself

Generic Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder w/4 Master Cylinder Metal Adapters 90-120 PSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016M68PUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qMyyCbZPN03VN

You do need an air compressor though, even a small one would work just fine

The whole recall kit is available on Amazon. If the fuse blows, you're supposed to replace that whole jumper harness rather than just put a new fuse in.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-SW6350-Brake-Repair-Kit/dp/B000IYLZDO

I can't see your second link for some reason but it sounds like your brake fluid pressure sensor needs replaced. Cheap fix.

$16 at Amazon

the vacuum pumpdoes work you just have to get it stable enough so it does take longer to put a vac on it. The hand pump is more about the work you have to put into getting a good vac. Alot of pumping. If it was a 3 gallon chamber it'd be ridiculous. I got the 1.5 quart chamber just for space saving reasons initially. It takes a bit of pumping, but I can get it to a vac and keep it at 27-28 depending on how im feelin'. It works great as small portable gear.

Brake Caliper hanger. We use it to hang parts while we are working under your vehicle. Technician probably left it by mistake.

Sample

ABN Brake Caliper Hanger Set of 2 - Steel, Durable, Reusable, Best for Brake, Bearing, Axle and Suspension Work https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JMF9GYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nFuLDbHJJ85CF

Get a brake bleeder kit for sure. RockAuto is a good place to get decent parts for a fair price.

I bought the correct tool and it takes about 10 minutes a side.

https://www.amazon.com/21-Piece-Universal-Caliper-Piston-Compressor/dp/B01FW3U26G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503980040&sr=8-4&keywords=ford+rear+brake+tool

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CX8C8MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kZjWDbV11R3TQ

Are the bushings in the arms? If so, probably worth it to just get new arms. Otherwise the tool you would be looking for would be something like THIS

If they are clean, usually your thumbs will be enough, otherwise something like this. I clean my brakes every spring.

Yes, you replace

Also for future, there's this tool:

https://www.amazon.com/ITEQ-8-Piece-Lining-Thickness-Construction/dp/B07C31KXRZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=24GXSNX5UN8VB&keywords=brake+pad+measuring+tool&qid=1551148604&s=gateway&sprefix=brake+pad+me%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

If you want to start working on your car when the time comes, you're gonna eventually need a floor jack and jack stands. Preferably 4 jack stands, but most common jobs that require raising it will only need 1 or 2 at any given time, so you can likely get by with 2, or even 1 as you're just starting out. The only time I use 4 jack stands is when I want to save money on new tires. I bring the tire place my 4 wheels and have them take the old tires off and put the new tires on, bring them home and put the wheels back on myself.

Regarding jacks and jack stands, learn where your cars jack points are-- I would recommend getting a Factory Service Manual for it if you don't have one. Should be able to find a PDF online somewhere. This FSM will also have useful repair info, maintenance info, fluid capacities/specs, and torque specs.

For tools, a set like this should get you through many of the more common repairs, such as replacing brake pads and rotors, replacing some suspension components, and many things under the hood (alternator replacements, belts, battery, spark plugs, etc etc). Having a few swivel adapters like these could be handy too, but not always necessary if you can get creative. I might also suggest having a longer socket extension than what comes in a set like what I linked above. Sometimes you just need a long boi.

A decent breaker bar will come in handy for making wheel lug nut removal easier. Doesn't have to be CRAZY long. A 2 footer is usually enough, but longer will require less effort. A torque wrench is also a plus for putting lug nuts back on. Different manufacturers want their wheel lug nuts to be tightened to specific torque ratings, and this will allow you to do that.

For brake jobs (pad and rotor replacement, typically), having a brake caliper piston compressor like this can make things easier. There are other styles for slightly different applications, but I've never NOT been able to make this style work among a wide array of vehicles. I've seen people use plain ol' C-clamps to compress the caliper pistons, and have also had to do so myself, but the right tool will make it a bit easier. I guess if you're a gorilla you might be able to just push them back in by hand too if they move freely enough.

The things you will probably want to rent at first are specialty tools. These are tools that perform very specific tasks, and that you probably won't need anywhere near as often as other, more common tools. Many of these specialty tools are listed on most automotive parts store sites. I have no preference of auto stores, but for the sake of an example: Here is o'reilly's list of rental tools.

Once you get to a new repair you've never done, i'd start with youtube as i'm sure others will suggest. If that's not enough, come here and ask.

EDIT: If you have money to spare, a decent air compressor and some air tools can go a long way. Not necessary by any means though. A 3/8 18v electric impact wrench is nice to have as well, but is also unnecessary.

Known as brake pressure tester

KKmoon Brake Pressure Tester ABS Braking System Testing Gauge Kit Garage Test Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DLW1O26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Kpa0BbQ1NQS6Q

Or ebay.

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Spring-Headlight-Adjuster-T-Handle/dp/B01BUI5UEQ/ref=sr_1_9_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1517460054&sr=1-9-spons&keywords=drum+spring+puller&psc=1


this

Fill a syringe with brake fluid, then use a tube and nipple (the black things in the pic, don't know the name) on the end. Open up the reservoir and get out as much fluid as possible, then use the syringe to slowly push fluid into the system, you should see lots of bubbles in the reservoir as the air escapes.

I had a hell of a time getting my DRZ's front system to bleed after accidentally introducing air, even took it to a shop and they couldn't get the brake feel back. Tried all sorts of wacky things including elevating the reservoir, putting a zip tie on the lever, etc. Did it this way and it worked perfectly the first time.

Not entirely true. They sell brake pad gauges that can measure with the caliper still on.

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3962-Brake-Lining-Thickness/dp/B0015DMJ2S

You need one of these to do it by yourself.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19200-Brake-Bleeding-Kit/dp/B0009OMY9M

Most auto parts stores should have them in stock.

This is what I use. By submerging the other end of the system in brake fluid you'll be pushing air out and pulling DOT 3 back in. The only problem with that system is you'll be aerating the fluid. Air is the enemy of hydraulic fluid, that's why they always tell you to use stuff out of a sealed container. If I ever had to do a high performance car I'd get help.

Buy This

C-clamps and a wrench is cheaper, but by god, does this tool make it easy and clean to push the piston back in. It's worth the $50, one time cost, and you don't have to sit there trying to manhandle a caliper in mid-air while trying to torque on it with the other hand.

Mason jar plus brake line vacuum hand pump from amazon, attach the bleed line to a hole in the mason lid with some hot glue.

Gets up to 25 inches pressure easily, (use as small a mason jar as you can to eliminate wasted space) you can put the jar in a hot water bath if you wish, and you can place a smaller container (glass dab jar, parchment paper) filled with extract in the jar to avoid getting the vacuum jar dirty.

If you're not using a closed loop, you might consider doing a cryo-soak in a jar instead of an open blast, as it's a bit safer during the time you're interacting with the setup (still not safe as it involves boiling/evaporating off flammable gas), or you might consider abandoning solvents and purging entirely and switch to a rosin process. Dry ice sift is quick and easy to make with just a bubble bag (the smallest of a set meant for bubble hash will do) and some dry ice; 3-5 quick shakes and you will have the purest snow white keif, 5 more and you will have pale yellow, and this keif can be pressed into rosin that is higher quality and terpier than most BHO or CO2 extracts. In the amounts you're processing, its very easy to do (easier than BHO), costs less, is safer, and yields as high if not higher quality extract.