Best brewing heaters & temperature controls according to redditors

There are some things in your description that could be cause for concern. I'm going to address specific details in your post, and include a link at the end. Please make sure you read through the link at the end!

First, is your heat pad hooked up to a thermostat? If not, unplug it and do not use it until you have a thermostat. A thermostat is even more essential than a thermometer. An unregulated heat pad is dangerous. Do NOT use a heat pad without a thermostat, or you risk serious burns to your snake! Two inexpensive models are InkBird and Jumpstart/Hydrofarm.

Thermometers and humidity gauges are also very important. Ball Pythons have specific heat and humidity needs. They will reject food, get sick, or have bad sheds if their temperatures and humidity are not on-par. Don't wait on this! And don't waste your time on analog dials. Start with an inexpensive digital thermometer/hygrometer to make sure your conditions are accurately monitored.

Neither the "daytime" nor the "infrared" lights are really appropriate. Snakes can see the light from both. You want a bulb that can be left on overnight without bothering the snake. Plus ambient light from a window is usually enough unless your room is particularly dark. Ditch both of your current heat lights and get a single Ceramic Heat Emitter bulb instead. It emits heat, but no light, and can be left running 24/7. ALSO get a lamp dimmer for your heat lamp, so you can more specifically control its heat output.

Next, ball pythons really should have two hides, one on the hot side and one on the cool so they don't have to sacrifice feeling safe to thermoregulate. Please get a second hide!

Now, with those specifics addressed, I highly recommend you read the following link dump by _Ataraxia. She did a good job compiling the most common advice on this sub. Pay special attention to those care sheets - read them all the way through.

You'll likely find things about your current enclosure (like aspen, which has a tendency to mold and doesn't retain humidity well) aren't quite appropriate for proper ball python care. We're here to help you and provide recommendations to ensure the long, happy life of your new scaly friend.

I think heating is easier to control than cooling. The solution really depends on your budget.

I think there are essentially 3 pieces.

1. Temperature monitoring & electric control. For example Inkbird ITC-308 which are about $35. Another option would be an STC-1000 that you wire yourself to power strip.
   
   
2. some sort of heating device. There are pads, belts ($20), tape, wraps($27)....
   
   
3. insulation to keep the heat in. E.G., a rubber exercise mat wrapped around a carboy or bucket with a strap to keep it tight.
   
   I also saw a video where instead of (1) they monitored the temperature manually (E.g., with a cheap $1 thermometer sticker) and then they used a standard cheap electrical timer ($10) that you might have anyway and configured the toggles so the heater came regularly and long enough to maintain the desired temperature.

We are commercial and make it all year. Local ingredients like grapes and apples we can only get around now. But we can always order juice year round, too.

It is harder in the winter to keep batches warm but we've been doing it for 8 years now. So yes, you can make mead all year in PA.

There are many yeasts that can go to 50 F but it will take a longer time for the fermentation to complete. 1116, 71B, 1118, and DV10 can all do 50. Fermenting at a lower temp can create additional flavors or aromas that don't get forced out as easily with a warmer ferment.


You can also buy Fermenting wrap or a
Fermenting belt

If you just want to circulate the water, buy a submergible pump. I've had more luck with models designed for high temp applications, like (food grade) hot oil, but regular water pumps will do the trick.

If you want to also control the temperature of the water, either buy a sous vide or look into an Inkbird cooler/heater like this. Then add a heating element or a hot plate.

I would simplify the whole build and get a small chest freezer, a brew belt or wrap and an Inkbird temp controller

No wiring or "building" anything and it would take 10 minutes to set it up

If you can find a chest freezer on Craigslist for a decent price this should all cost right around $100

You could try a heating pad or a heating belt.

I use a heating pad
Brewing & Fermentation Heat Pad... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072V15ZK2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Try this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY6H947?m=AKX4PUL0YEZW2&ref_=v_sp_detail_page

Pre-built? Almost nothing.

I'm going to assume 120v.

There's the EBC from High Gravity - $400

Stir-Plate - $260

If you think building one is in the cards, I'd take a look at this guide and their wiring set up. Then get an auberin PID.

I based it on the Son of Fermentation Chiller plans but made modifications to the dimensions to allow it to fit two carboys. Originally I just had a cheap thermostat from Home Depot and only cooling, but had some issues in the winter months with the beer getting too cold at night and the yeast dropping out before it reached the targeted FG. So eventually I upgraded the temp controller to the STC 1000 which does both heating and cooling and picked up a 4" duct fan, some 4" duct, foil tape, and cut up an old brew belt I had laying around. I would highly recommend building one if you have the resources. It's probably the single biggest improvement to my brewing process I've ever made.

https://www.amazon.com/HomeBrewStuff-Inline-Thermometer-chiller-kettles/dp/B0163G8DJO

You could put that on the outflow of your pump. I have a similar system coming out of my chiller.

They're quite easy to make. I use mine all winter long. Just need a heater and a controller. I use the two below.

Brew Fermentation Heating Belt, 1-Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D6IUB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Q3L1BbH29S370

Inkbird ITC-308 Max.1200W Heater, Cool Device Temperature Controller, Carboy, Fermenter, Greenhouse Terrarium Temp. Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_04L1Bb1CAC4VY

Without knowing where you are in the world, it's tough to recommend specific places to buy things.

I do want to point out a couple of things, however:

1. Corn snakes do not need basking rocks, or heat lamps, unless your ambient room temp is really low, below 20°C... even then they gain no benefit from the light, and ceramic heat bulbs are recommended.
   
2. Under tank heat (UTH) mats are recommended. They are used as a hot spot for your snake to digest food.
   
3. Automated thermostat to control the heating source is required. Digital is recommended, as they are much more accurate and only a few dollars more than analog.
   
4. Corns don't necessarily need climbing branches. Some snakes are content on the ground, others are quite curious. My corn likes to use his branch to aid in escape attempts, otherwise has no real interest in it.
   
5. You need to monitor the temp with digital thermometers, the analog ones are just junk and a waste of money.
   
6. You'll need one for the hot spot and one for elsewhere in the tank. I recommend the digital thermometers with the probe on a wire. It should be buried in the substrate, measuring the ground temp.
   
7. I also recommend investing in a hydrometer (measures humidity). Also recommend digital as they are more accurate.
   
   For a digital thermostat, I highly recommend the Inkbird ITC-306T.

I used this one before moving to a room controller. If money is tight this looks like a good unit.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072V15ZK2/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=9ddc66f6-9fc0-49ff-b2fa-06a39d9859e6&pd_rd_wg=EP8Mr&pf_rd_r=6JZZQ1MGNMA3K1ZGK6H8&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B072V15ZK2&pd_rd_w=hHUaZ&pf_rd_i=kombucha+heat+pad&pd_rd_r=5ff68ad1-aa6e-4a49-a1e0-9f07be998c8f&ie=UTF8&qid=1541266250&sr=1

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Works like wonders for me

Brew Fermentation Heating Belt, 1-Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D6IUB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U4hPDb1C4RD85

eBay Aquarium temp controller + reptile heat cable + sweater = winning.

Replace the heat cable with a BrewBelt and the sweater for Reflectix or similar

Add a Thermowell Stopper and you are really in business.

Instructions on HomeBrew Talk for the temp controller wiring. I used that same diagram but only a single outlet plug. I have no use for the cooling side currently so I only use it to control heat. I've built 2 of these so far with the Reflectix and reptile cable and I love them! The Thermowell is a really great addition, seems to be more accurate than just taping the probe to the fermenter.

Yes, I have the CHE connected to a dedicated thermostat for the tank. This is the specific one I have https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FTQ669S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I don't rely on the lighting for heat (my basking is a low 25W bulb) but on the CHE.

this is the thermostat i have. i chose thise one because i use 2 CHE lamps and this thermostat will let me use both, some only have a single plug

145w or LED will generate about as much heat as 145w of HPS. Stick with the HPS.

To get cooling under control, you'll need to post details. Or, better, pics. 600w isn't a lot in a 4x4. Lots of people do it.

Without details, look at a CoolTube style hood on it's own ducting circuit--pulling air from outside, through the cooltube, then straight back outside using a 6" duct fan. That gets rid of most of your heat, versus a bare bulb/wing setup.

Then get a decent 6" inline fan as your main exhaust for the tent. Run this through a programmable thermostat, so it's only kicking on when you tell it to (on at 75 degrees, off at 72, for example). A fan speed controller for the inline is useful, to limit noise and the rate at which you are pulling all the humidity out of your tent. But not strictly necessary if you have the thermostat.

Both ducting circuits (one for the CoolTube, one for the Tent) should be vented outside. Or at least outside the room.

I know that adds a bunch of cost. You can go cheap on the CoolTube, ducting, and duct fan. Don't go cheap on the inline. Having proper ventilation (and, IMO, a programmable thermostat) is essential to be able to run, well, in all seasons. You have a good tent/light pairing. Get the ventilation right, and you can dial in your environment. That's 80% of the battle.

I use plastic fermenters which are have much worse heat conduction than glass but I'll give my two cents. I use a rectangle (about 6"x4") of pink foam insulation with a little slot chiseled out to about half the length that fits the temp probe. I just tape this tightly to the side of the fermenter and slot the temp probe into it (I use the same ITC-308 temp controller). However, what I did to test the efficacy was measure the temperature each time I took a sample for gravity readings. Since I found that the temp was within a couple tenths of a degree of the reading, I found that this was fine. Whichever way you choose to measure it, I recommend testing the internal temp that way until you dial it in.

Edit: The ITC-308 works great btw, I use it on my fermentation chamber (converted chest freezer) and keezer and have never had a problem whenever I've measured the direct temp vs the reading of the probe.

Edit 2: Also forgot to say but I use this $22 heating belt taped to my fermenter (or two fermenters which I've done twice and had equal success with). I ferment in a chest freezer so it has cooling capability but as long as your ambient temp is less than your fermentation temp you're fine using a heat source to regulate. The other thing I did when I wanted to keep the temp higher (85-95 F) for Kveik yeast and kettle sours is I wrapped the fermenter and heating belt setup with this reflectix insulation with a 1" air gap and cut to the proper size which worked perfectly (did the same thing for my full volume biab mash tun and kettle).

You can wrap this around your fermenter;
http://www.amazon.com/Brew-Belt-Fermentation-Heating-1-Count/dp/B001D6IUB6


Also use this as a thermostat to regulate temperatures/turn the brew belt on and off.

http://www.amazon.com/All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Stc-1000/dp/B008KVCPH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421948732&sr=8-1&keywords=stc1000&pebp=1421948735262&peasin=B008KVCPH2

You'll attach the probe to the side of the fermenter, insulate it with a towel. Then put the brew belt either above or below (not touching the towel or the probe). The STC will kick on the belt whenever the beer is below whatever temperature you set on the STC.

You need a two stage Inkbird temp controller (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FTNL4DE/ref=asc_df_B01A6UZQX45379116/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B01A6UZQX4&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167130986292&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7187178485843403005&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002216&hvtargid=pla-308523201570&th=1)

You need something to keep it cool (typically a fridge)

You need something to warm it up (I like this DIY set up http://www.brewstands.com/fermentation-heater.html)

You can use the thermowell but it isn't needed (tape the probe to the side of your fermentor and wrap bubble wrap around it for insulation. This will read the wort temp within 1°F.


You plug the Inkbird into the wall outlet. You plug the fridge in the cooling plug of the Inkbird. You plug the paint bucket lamp heater (or your heater of choice) into the heating plug of the Inkbird. Then you need to set your perimeters. I haven't used an Inkbird so I'm not 100% on what they are. Typically you will have set temp, temp differential (how far of a swing in temp you will allow), and compressor delay (this sets time in minutes the minimum wait time to turn the fridge on, this is used so it doesn't turn the compressor on and off frequently and wear it down).

This green one works awesome on my reef tank, pre-wired,not complicated to use.

I've been wrestling with this a bit myself, somewhat inconsistent carbonation in the second ferment.

Here are my less scientific observations

-Temp seems to make a big difference in second ferment. During the summer months, when it probably averages 80 degrees in our home, a 2-3 day second ferment will be very bubbly, often so carbonated that I need to burp the bottles occasionally.

-Although the second ferment is supposed to be an anaerobic ferment, I have found that if I don't leave much room fir air in my flip top Grolsch bottles, that it doesn't bottle up very well. So, I will typically fill the grolsch bottle about 1/3rd up the neck of the bottle, leaving an air gap. This single change seems to have made the biggest difference for a fizzier second ferment.

-As far as sugar goes, I have tried a few different things. My go to ingredients for the second ferment are ginger and lemon. Typically the juice of 2 medium sized lemon, and a large piece of ginger (juiced) to a gallon of Kombucha. I had been adding a half cup of sugar to this mix, but kept finding it to be too sweet by the time it was fizzy. So, I have now been starting the second ferment earlier, while the tea is still slightly sweet, and not adding any additional sugar... In my most recent batch, I did add the juice of 2 apples to the mix, and this resulted in the best tasting and fizziest batch I've made in months.

There has definitely been some trial and error, but hopefully I'm able to replicate this most recent batch.

Another word on temperature, in the cooler weather I have taken to using a heating mat for my second ferment. I just leave my Kombucha jar, and the bottles for my second ferment sitting on top of this mat. It gently warms everything, and fermentation occurs much faster. Seemed silly at first, but seems to make a huge difference.

http://www.amazon.com/Kombucha-Heating-INSTRUCTIONAL-VIDEO-Get/dp/B00DESZ4H4

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Thermowell-Fermentation-Temperature-Thermometer/dp/B0763SFLLX/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=Homebrew+1%2F4"+Stainless+Steel+Thermowell+and+%237+Bung+Stopper+for+Glass+Carboy&qid=1556421972&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

Take the silicone plug and toss it. Shove the SS tube into the big center hole of the orange carboy cap so it's snug in there. Put the inkbird temp probe into the well. I feel this the a more accurate temp reading than taping the temp sensor to the carboy.

Or go buy this - https://www.morebeer.com/products/hood-thermowell-smooth-neck-carboys-15.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvsnX5ezx4QIVy7bACh3F0Qi7EAQYAiABEgIjNfD_BwE

I've been thinking about RIMS as well.... I was looking at this RIMS controller on Amazon for $199

https://www.amazon.com/Brewing-Fermentation-Homebrew-Fermenting-Heating/dp/B072V15ZK2

One option: Put bucket in tub of water, place aquarium heater in tub and set to temp(I have one that bottoms out at 65, any lower any you'll need a temp controller).

Use this chart to size the heater you need. Remember to add gallons of beer + gallons of water in tub so 5 gallons of water + 5 gallons of beer would need about 75W of heater to heat about 25F above ambient. It would also be a good idea to add a small aquarium pump to circulate water around the tub for better heating.

Another option: Heat belt

We bought one on amazon that will turn off the lamps at a certain temperature (give or take a specified threshold): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FTQ669S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

I was also super paranoid about the temperature and got two lamps, which has been really helpful...if only to prevent me from waking up in the middle of the night to check on him those first couple of weeks :) That one has two plugs controlled by one thermometer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001D6IUB6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483065273&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Fermenter+warming+band&dpPl=1&dpID=414cI-RupZL&ref=plSrch

Works like a charm

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Pre-Wired-Temperature-Controller-Homebrewing/dp/B01FTNL4DE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496347998&sr=8-2&keywords=itc+308

https://www.amazon.ca/DEMEDO-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Heater/dp/B07BLT8587/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1XFWLMLL6OTHX&keywords=enail+for+dab&qid=1564521098&s=gateway&sprefix=E+na%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-1

Just a long "straight walled" thermowell that runs through the carboy stopper. There are stoppers that you can buy but with two holes (one for the airlock one for the thermowell) but I just took a drill to a standard one hole stopper. I prefer blowoff tubes, so I think I'm going to head out to homedepot and pick up some pvc to rig myself up something that allows me to use a thermowell and a blowoff tube.

But I have an inkbird temp controller and a [cheap heat wrap] (https://www.amazon.com/Fermentation-Heater-Wrap-Thermometer-Strip/dp/B0719WSY3B/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1497634143&sr=8-11&keywords=heat+wrap+brewing).

Honestly, although im relatively new to this I determined that ferm temp control is the best thing you can do to make ok beer. First batch I did with a carboy, wet towels, etc...It was drinkable but I got off flavors all over. Next was in the keezer with the thermocouple taped to the side and no heating, better, but my 3rd batch with the thermowell was by far my best (I'm sure not only because of the keezer setup but because of practice).

I've heard that the temp difference between the beer and the thermocouple strapped to the side can be pretty considerable, especially during vigorous fermentation. If you have the extra $30-40 bucks, I would recommend doing the in beer thermowell from the get go.

Inkbird controller, I bought one from Amazon.https://www.amazon.com/Fathers-Day-Gifts-Temperature-Controller/dp/B01FTNL4DE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464848450&sr=8-1&keywords=father%27s+gift+ITC308

I much prefer this one for my SS Brew Bucket:

Brew Fermentation Heating Belt, 1-Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D6IUB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vaL4Cb0HTVEWC

I used to use the one listed above...but I found the electrical connections on it flimsy. They broke off after about 6 months. I've been using the heater belt for 2 years now with no issues. It keeps the beer at a consistent +/- 1°

That's what I do, as well. It works great. I got one of those thermowell things (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0763SFLLX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_isFZCbF4921XZ) and it works great. I had to use a blow-off tube, though, but that's fine.

This one is only for $12. Cheap one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY6H947/ref=twister_B01MT7BPNV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Maybe something like this?

You can definitely get cheaper heating belts than that, I have one that I paid around £7 for. All it does is supply heat, you wrap it around your container and there's no temperature control or anything so you have to monitor your brew's temp manually (easy if you have a floating thermometer or stick on thermo strip) but it does the job. Mine looks something like this

I live in the north east and last winter I had a single 3x3 in my basement. Light was a 300w (actual draw) cob led from Amazon.

I would recommend getting a temperature controller, like an ITC-310. I picked up a 250w electric heater and it seemed to keep up pretty well evening out my temps. The ITC-308 is a little cheaper but with the 310 you can set day and night temps.

I was dealing with 45 ish degrees, you might want to think about lining the tent with some rigid insulation (bonus points for the stuff with the reflective backing)

Be careful with the heater in this setup, if you point it straight at a plant you’re going to fry that plant.

You could hook up a wide range of heaters here, you’re just limited to 10amp draw per device hooked up to the controller.

I use this one and it works well. I've pushed it up to 80F so far but it seems it could go hotter.