Best cable & wire ropes according to redditors

try this

only $0.58/ ft

ooh or This already has head holes

http://www.amazon.com/Galvanized-Steel-Wire-Rope-Strand/dp/B0050K3I2M

One place, but shop around for prices and the gauge you need.

and btw: normal wire cutters will NOT cut this.

Here are the parts to make your own. A hardware store should have "cable ferrules". For cat toys, put the ferrules on garage floor and hit with a hammer to crimp. You don't need full strength. I suspect you want to make them into loops, not an eye.

https://www.amazon.com/a15060500ux0038-32-inch-Aluminum-Ferrules-Sleeves/dp/B012SPB936

https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Grade-Stainless-Steel-Sleeves/dp/B07GRSTSRC

some eye to eye turnbuckles will make it easy to adjust as it stretches

http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/73-turnbuckles.aspx

use clothesline wire:

http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Fasteners-Clothesline-122090-Wire/dp/B000BQM6QY

Copying and pasting a comment from a previous thread -

I did a DIY setup, with everything coming from Amazon except the carabiners, which you can pretty much find anywhere. Here's the links for the parts:

Steel Cable: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YDK49M/

Wire Rope Clips: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00III7IP6/

Pulleys: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BD6BSQ/

Thimbles: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038YY3LW/

Tie-down Straps (for hanging pulleys from the rack): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AS5QC1C/

Loading Pin: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IRY5U14/

Assuming you have some tools around, this should be everything you would need. I recommend a bolt cutter if you don't already have one. I thought I would be able to cut the steel cable with the wire cutters built into my pliers and it was not happening. Ended up having to make a trip to the tool shop this morning to get that.

The PA on this belt changes it from a POS imitator into something really secure. Most belts like this you have to wear so tight it's uncomfortable, otherwise you can just slip right out. But with the PA attachment at the end of the tube you are unable to escape at all. So I wear it a bit looser and it's much more comfortable.

Properly adjusted this belt is the most secure thing I've found. Pull out is impossible. I've tried everything to cum and it's all useless. Removing the belt without a key is as close to impossible as it gets. Sure, I could cut the belt off, but the penis would still be secure inside the tube. The steel is really hard. I tried to increase the size of one of the urination holes and ended up dulling drill bits even on a drill press with drilling oil. I've worn it for full month long periods with no problems. Currently I'm working my way through a 365 day sentence.

To keep it clean I shower 3-4 times per week. I use a detachable hand held shower head sprayer to shoot water up into all the cracks and holes. When I sit to pee I use a small 100ml plastic irrigation syringe with water to squirt into the penis tube. This flushes out the urine and keeps it clean. Once a month my wife restrains me to the bondage table and removes it for inspection. Every time, the penis has come out looking clean and happy with no issues. If I've been good she might decide to play with it before putting it away and releasing me. The key is kept in a portable realtor lock box with 5 digit code.

I just looked back through my photos all the way to when I bought the belt in January of 2017 and don't see any pics that show the tube open. It seems that any time it's open my hands are restrained so I can't touch anything down there; And thus no pics... Sorry. I will ask my wife to take a few next time she opens it for an inspection.

I replaced the stock chain with titanium rings from The Ring Lord. I can't seem to find the link to the place where I got the replacement lock. I think the size is 3/8" length, 7/16" diameter, 1" long cam.

Getting the size of the belt correct took several months of adjusting and wearing to determine the right size. The waist belt is very adjustable but is kind of thin metal. Someday that will get replaced. Once I got it the right size, I stopped using the provided silicone liner which sucked because it wouldn't stay on. I was using E-tape to hold it in place. Now it's held on by heat shrink tubing. I shrunk it down by putting the whole belt in the oven at minimum temp. All of the bolts have been replaced with 3/16" stainless rivets which are more durable. I couldn't find them anywhere but my local ACE Hardware. Neither Lowes nor Home Depot had Stainless.

The cable between the legs makes it really convenient for defecation. Just pull it to one side as I sit and there's no mess. The original cable was kind of thin and broke right at the end after a month of constant wear. I upgraded to a heavier duty cable with Stainless Steel Aircraft Wire Rope Swage Eye Terminals. I had to buy a 10 ton terminal crimper to make that connection permanent. The eye ends of the swage eyes have been ground down by an angle grinder to make them thinner, and then a stainless washer helps the rivet grab onto the material.

I've looked into this quite a bit and the best way I found (which may be overkill) is to get the following:

• vinyl coated steel cable LINK
  
• Swageless Fork Terminal LINK
  
• Eye Hooks at your mounting points that the terminals will connect to
  
• Optional Turnbuckles LINK
  
  The turnbuckles would really only be needed if you don't believe you could get the steel cable tight enough, but if you have a short span it shouldn't be an issue. If you plan to run the steel cable through each eye hook and only have the terminals at the ends, then the turnbuckle may be needed.
  
  EDIT:
  They also make much cleaner looking solutions where the terminals have a built-in turnbuckle like THIS and terminals that have a lag bolt already attached which would remove the need for eye hooks like THIS

maybe it wouldn't be as bad as I thought on further research... You can buy 25 feet of 16 GA titanium wire for $12.50.

Assuming that every ring for the maille has a diameter of 5/16" (0.3125), then each ring uses about 1 inch of metal (about 0.982 inches). That means that you could get 300 rings from a single spool.

Lets assume that you fit the male large shirt from this site (because I need some basis of measurements), meaning 42" chest, 36" waist, 14" bicep, etc. and plug in all of that data into This calculator, it shows that you need about 23,620 rings. That means that you need 79 spools of wire to complete the task, costing you $987.50.

Not bad, all things considered.

In lieu of the cable attachment, you could do a DIU Spud Inc. solution.


I ordered all my parts yesterday, I will post an update and review when they come in.


$21.95 - Loading Pin


$26.95 - Straps, Carabiner, & Bonus Grandfather Clock Grip System


$21.60 - Nylon Coated Wire Assembly


$35.70 - Rescue Pulley's

I had 2 extra carabiner's from my abstraps, otherwise you'll have to buy 2. (Or just buy ab straps)

All-In I'm $106 for what I'm expecting to be a very good system.

Once this comes in and I can measure things up, I plan on getting 2 more lengths of nylon coated wire assemblies. Then I can anchor a second pulley low for rows or mid-rack for external/interal rotations and other various exercises.

Edit: I should mention, there's ways to do this even cheaper, but I think these options are a good balance of value, performance, safety, and install time.

I don't have the tools to crimp cable or whatever so I bought these things on Amazon.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Ranger-Commercial-Reliability-Snatch-Ultranger/dp/B0762VGCVR/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=atv+pulley+block&qid=1549898922&s=gateway&sr=8-18

​

https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Black-Coated-GALVANIZED-STEEL/dp/B07DQ65NB9/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=psi+cable&qid=1549898938&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

It works pretty well. I have a 5ft double looped cable and it works for pulldowns perfectly but I'm waiting on a 10ft one in the mail right now so I can do low rows and curls with a 2nd pulldown.

Stainless rope: https://www.amazonsupply.com/dp/B0013HGP9Y

Kanthal Ribbon: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261217580592?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Got to my computer
Lights,
[Cable,] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YDK49M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Clip,
and Metal loopy thing (prevents cable from rubbing though rubber coating)

Just need eyelets or something to attach it the cable to the posts.

something like this?

I feel anything you try to buy will be too short. Also those mounting plates would need a flatish surface. But, you can make your own. Buy light duty cable and some cripping sleeves. Cut the cable to the length you want and seal the ends into loops with the crimping sleeves. Wrap the cable around the rift headband and feed one end into the other end through the loop. Wrap the other end around something sturdy that can't be moved and lock a padlock around the cable and the loop. Now you can remove the cable without damaging the rift. or having to cut the cable when you are done and make in any length you want. You might want to add a fabric tube around the loop that goes around the rift to avoid anyone having their hair pulled.

I got mine here http://www.amazonsupply.com/dp/B0013HGP9Y

124lbs delivered in 2 days Super surprised.

I'm using 7x7 3/28 inch cable. 316 grade = surgical grade/marine grade stainless, more resistant to corrosion. Better than 304, what is used for many RBA construction.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HGP9Y/ref=biss_dp_t_asn 25 feet for 11 USD

THE ROPE IN THE UPPER LINK HAS SOME NYLON WRAPPED AROUND THE cORE, BUT IT IS EASY TO REMOVE.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmGfBFPi7bQ - how to remove

No matter which rope you choose, make sure you torch it till its red hot to remove anything from the manufacturing process. Some people just boil it, but I wouldn't.

Yes, get some nice cable cutters.