(Part 2) Best car amplifier noise filters according to redditors

usb-a to usb-b cable

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a couple of headphone jack adapters

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ground wires if you're dealing with vinyl

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interference suppresion filter clips

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ethernet cable

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and a bunch of these

Noise filter for a vehicle:

https://www.amazon.com/1st-Source-Passive-Noise-Filter/dp/B002AUHD26

easiest quick fix is to add a stack of snap on ferrite cores to it's power cable and your sensitive electronics cords. If that helps, then it was RFI. If it doesn't, then maybe the machine is actually causing surges or something more serious.

eg. https://www.amazon.ca/Pieces-Clip-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B07DLD2LNW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=snap+on+ferrite&qid=1556121578&s=gateway&sr=8-1

just search for "snap on ferrite". Get some that fit your power cord.

Other things to check: does a regular incandecent lightbulb on the same circuit as the sewing machine show any brightness variation?

But, this is a problem in the machine. There exist sewing machine repair people even now. If it's a cherished machine, getting it fixed while servicemen still exist is a good idea. You don't want a shock or fire hazard. If it's a newer machine, junk it and replace. New sewing machines come with fancy features, but a shorter service life.

Yeah it's definitely a possibility. Do you have one of those old USB or VGA cables with the clip on ferrite bead? You can usually pop it off and then tie your cable through it to provide some noise shielding.

stardrift 10-Pack 11mm Diameter Snap on Ferrite Core Bead Choke Ring Cord RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Filter for HDMI DVI VGA Cable Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDU0D8I/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_4-dZDbC6SRJBE

this is the exact one i use and it fixed my Op-1 issues. =)

What you describe is probably RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). From radio waves being picked up by the wires from your computer to your speakers. Solutions include:

1. Use balanced (XLR, TRS) connections rather than unbalanced (TS, RCA, etc.)
   
   
2. Add some snap-on ferrite filters around the cables where they enter the powered speakers. For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GKBPYB9
   
   
3. Be sure that all the gear is powered from the same circuit. Use a power strip to power the computer, interface, speakers, etc.

Do you have a Magnet for the power cable? Sometimes they give some with the TV. It helps for times when there’s interference.
https://www.amazon.com/BCQLI-Detachable-Shielding-Interference-Improving/dp/B0775V3QN3
These might help.

You should ask people on amazon if it gets rid of ESD. Some DACs will enhance audio while not eliminating interference. You might buy it and find that you will need something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Isolator-Digital-Isolation-Industrial/dp/B00XXPO4UG/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+static+filter&qid=1564536816&s=gateway&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/VSKEY-Anti-interference-Telephones-Equipment-Appliances/dp/B077Q6T1XG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+static+filter&qid=1564536816&s=gateway&sr=8-3

It completely depends on whether or not the ESD only affects your 3.5mm jacks. I use the X470 Gamin Aorus motherboard which has dedicated DAC-Up ports for isolation.

Sorry it's something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Viaky-Noise-Suppressor-Ferrite-Filter/dp/B07V7DGZ5V

They are iron (magnets?) that act as a noise suppressor to keep electronic devices from interfering with each other.

Couple of potential issues.

In some cases it's possible to create a ground loop between an audio device and an audio source. So if the sound goes away when your phone is on battery (and not plugged into vehicle power) then this is potentially the issue. They make ground loop isolators for hard-wired audio devices for this (Edit: this isn't your issue)

The other fault is the vehicle alternator is either of poor quality or faulty such that it's sending AC transients (electrical interference) through the power system of the car. This can be somewhat tricky to identify or fix. What vehicle make/model/Year?

Another possible issue is that the vehicle spark plug wires (if equipped) are worn such that it's generating electrical or RF interference.

What I would try is to add an electrical noise filter to the power feed to the cigarette lighter, either make some sort of male/female cigarette lighter connection with a noise filter in-between, or add an add-a-tap fuse holder and power filter at the cigarette lighter fuse on the under-dash fuse panel.

One of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Pipemans-Installation-Solution-Suppressor-Eliminator/dp/B07HZ4RSS7/ref=lp_10981591_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1554823575&sr=1-16

https://www.amazon.com/FMS-10-AMP-12V-Car-Audio-Radio-Amplifier-Noise-Suppressor-and-Stereo-Filter-with-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B07HG1M912/ref=lp_10981591_1_25?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1554823575&sr=1-25

Ferrite beads.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QKF2SS/

http://www.electricalbasicprojects.com/ferrite-bead-tutorial-applications-advantages/

/u/Kayos42 can also try noise filter cable rings.

You are probably using a USB charger with a non-isolated DC-DC converter in it so you have a ground loop between your charger and the radio. If you can find an isolated charger your problem should go away.

Or you can get something like this to break the ground loop instead.

I've had luck with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015RCYICQ/ as being a real mix (31) vs the random stuff that most are. I had severe issues of RFI coming down the power line of my two dashcams (power directly to them was fine, but ran off other power they generated lots of RFI along the cable) and I put two of these beads about 3" down the cable and eliminated almost all of the interference. I would try this on all of the cables coming into the radio. They make these in various sizes, so you might need to get multiple sizes. You can't really easily put it on something too big, but if it's too small and you have enough wire loop it around the bead and it'll do even better.

For giggles I realized I hadn't reviewed the beads yet, so here's my review I just posted with more details on my dashcam RFI experience.

It's getting harder and harder to find ferrite beads that are an actual real mix that's useful. It would be better if they told us exactly what mix this is, but per comments along with my own observations this does appear to be a 31 mix or something very similar as my dashcams were giving off really bad RFI on 2m. Several frequencies were fulll-scale interference and others were severely desensed. I started unplugging things in the car and found it was my front and rear dashcam that were causing it. Both seemed to have different impacts. The front was a wideband desense, with the rear unplugged I had issues clearly receiving repeaters, even NOAA which is SUPER strong. It kind of faded in and out etc. I then unplugged the front again, plugged the rear in. The rear was creating the spurs that was full-scale interference on various frequencies across 2m. I did not attempt to see how far it went. I started looking around to see if I could find better USB cables or a different way to power them, then thought I should try ferrite beads but I really didn't have any, all of mine are in use. So i got these based on comments that they were a Mix 31.

I started with one bead on the front camera cable and then added a second one and found it to improve things, then I plugged in the rear camera and unplugged the front again and did the same on the rear. Again, since they were creating different types of noise it was important to test them separately. I wound up putting two of these on the power cords coming into the dashcams about 3" out and that reduced the RFI to the point where if I have the squelch on my radio (Kenwood D710GA) open I can hear when the dashcams power up but no obvious interference in normal use now. I will likely get more of these to have around. Just make sure you get the right size. Looping the cable around the bead improves the choking but if you need to put this over thicker cable, cable you can't loop, coax, etc, you'll want to get the right size.