Best ceiling fan mount adapters according to redditors

No that will not work, it would for a normal electrical outlet but not to support a ceiling fan, youlll need one of these or something similar at the local home depot or Lowes
Saf-T-Brace for Ceiling Fans

this might do the trick. https://www.amazon.ca/Arlington-FS420SCL-1-Mounting-Suspended-50-pound/dp/B006N2TYEC

You can change any household light fixture for any other. The only issue is the footprint of the fixture. You may have to do a spackle repair or paint the area that was once covered by the fixture but no longer is. You may also have to install an appropriate mounting box depending on how the flouresenct was installed; Flourescent fixtures are typically not mounted on a box whereas flush mount fixtures are. You won't have to damage the ceiling to switch from one to the other. If it's gonna be an actual chandelier, you'll want a box that's made to handle more weight, like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00027EWNW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1412468766&sr=8-2
This box can be installed from below through a hole which is the same size as the box itself.

If I understand correctly, you have a 3-way switch setup controlling the light/fan, where there's two switches that control the same fixture. This shouldn't be an issue if you swapped the light for the fan wiring it the same way.

Did you change anything at the switch? Have you flipped both switches to make sure it's on?(had to ask)

I'd check there's still power getting to the red wire in the ceiling box, you can get a non-contact voltage tester, or a multimeter for <$20.

If you still have power controlled by the switches, I'd try bypassing the controller for the remote. There should be 4 wires going into it, ground(bare or green), neutral(white), fan power(black), and light power(blue). Tie the black and blue wires together with the red in the box, and the rest normally.

If you are not super comfortable with electricity and wiring, and there's power getting to the red wire in the ceiling, just return the fan for a new one, as that's what you'd have to do anyway if the controller is bad.

Side note: Always turn off the breaker when working on your wiring, and you should switch the ceiling box for one that's meant to support a fan. Depending on where the original box is in relation to the joists, you want one like this or this. The plastic ones that are nailed to the side of the joist offer to much movement. Not only will it wear the bearings in the motor prematurely, but you risk it falling.

You shouldn't need to cut the ceiling. I installed a fan in my living room by moving the old can light out of the way and using a screw type fan box. And I have no attic access above my living room.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=screw+fan+box&qid=1562467536&s=hi&sr=1-1

​

You should be able to do it all through that hole.

There's this and this if you're looking at putting them to good use.

There is a fan bracket available for this very thing.

You slip this tube up into the void and extend it from joist to joist by screwing it out (like a shower tension rod) and the ends are pronged to grab the joists.

Then the box screws into this bar.

https://www.rona.ca/en/saf-t-brace-35425051

https://www.lowes.ca/ceiling-fan-mounting-accessories/raco-old-work-ceiling-fan-brace-and-box-kit_g1543999.html

https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW

I'd toss the plastic boxes and replace with fan rated just the same.

I don't trust those plastic ones with 2 nails. This is much better;http://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412997716&sr=8-1&keywords=ceiling+fan+box

Hope that the wire(s) that goes to the existing recess light are long enough to reach the new junction box. All junction boxes have to be accessible. NEC Article 100 def. Accessible (as applied to wiring methods). Capable of
being removed or exposed without damaging the building
structure or finish or not permanently closed in by the structure or finish of the building. NEC 314.29 Boxes, Conduit Bodies, and Handhole Enclosures
to Be Accessible. Boxes, conduit bodies, and handhole
enclosures shall be installed so that the wiring contained
in them can be rendered accessible without removing
any part of the building or structure, or, in underground
circuits, without excavating sidewalks, paving, earth, or
other substance that is to be used to establish the finished
grade.

You may need to place the new box to the side a few inches from where you want to, so the wires will reach. You could abandon the recess up in the attic. Another box no one has suggested using is a ceiling fan box. This will put zero load on any sheet rock patch. You might be able to come up with a way to attach the sheet rock patch to the box bar.

Sounds good, but but below is a few comment.

1. Run a string from one corner of the room the the opposite corner. Do this for the other two corner. Where the string intersect, it's the center.
   
2. That's the wrong box. You want to use the Westinghouse Saf-T for Ceiling fans. You can use the twist and lock version. I personally prefer the new construction version so that I can screw it into the ceiling joist. You just need to break off the little tab at the bottom of the box. http://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0152500-Saf-T-Bar-Engineered/dp/B0002YV94A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453839032&sr=8-3
   
3. I may be repeating what you're saying. For wiring, I would run a 14-3 with ground. That is a wire with three conductors (red, black, white) and a ground. This will allow you to put in a switch that can control the fan and the light independently.
   
   For step 8, can you tell me what the existing switch currently do? Does it control an outlet? If you don't mind the outlet being constantly powered, I would put in a dual switch - one for fan and one for the light. Just do an Amazon search for "Light fan dual switch." Pick the switch of your choice. I recommend something with a speed control. This way you don't have to mess with the cords on the fan/light. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Yes! Thanks! I really appreciate that, you just saved me $40. I'll buy the Bundle to start and assuming it works out nicely I'll add in the extra switch afterwards. (And I see that if I later want those pedestals, I can get them for less than $10 each. Sweet!) Thanks again.

I'm confused, because if there was a ceiling fan there before, the box should already be in the ceiling? Did someone remove the fan and the box?

This is what you'd normally use for a fan: http://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW

If you just want a box to mount there, you can use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Carlon-BH234R-Outlet-8-Inch-Length/dp/B0007N738M/

(Note: there are much cheaper versions of the second one available from hardware stores)

Ditch the plastic box, it's not meant for a fan. Depending on the setup, you can use this without ripping down drywall or going into the attic. I've used three of these in my house:

Westinghouse Lighting 0110000 Saf-T-Brace for Ceiling Fans, 3 Teeth, Twist and Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00027EWNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_14UxzbKEG8QQ8

The easiest brace to install has two arms that twist to lock in position:
http://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW/

The people who sold me my house had used this low profile conversion kit on a cheap hampton bay fan in a room with 7ft ceilings

https://www.amazon.com/Monte-Carlo-MC90BS-Canopy-Brushed/dp/B000QJ0QJK

or you can just buy a fan with it already installed. They're generally called hugger/low profile/flush mount

Completely eliminates the downrod. That's about as short as you can get.