(Part 3) Best compact flourescent bulbs according to redditors
We found 306 Reddit comments discussing the best compact flourescent bulbs. We ranked the 85 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
http://www.lightbulbmarket.com/product/914416_23-Watt-GU24-Base-Philips-Compact-Fluorescent-Light-Bulb
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005MS6CG6
GU24 CFL 13W - google search
There's been lots of topics about small lights such as decent clamp lights etc. I myself have posted a topic here. Make sure to use the search bar!
Quick answer:
> cfls can't be dimmed
Dimmable CFLs are available.
This is a replacement ballast that should work:
http://www.amazon.com/ROBERTSON-3M10086-Magnetic-Preheat-Fluorescent/dp/B00D1X2T52/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377552156&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=ROBERTSON+3M10005+SP2%2FA
There is a wiring diagram in the pictures too.
Huh? They're available literally anywhere regular three way bulbs are sold.
http://www.amazon.com/Philips-453340-Light-White-Non-Dimmable/dp/B00NP2MYO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458507911&sr=8-1&keywords=three+way+LED
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-78952-replacement-2150-Lumen/dp/B003XII0CQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458507926&sr=8-1&keywords=three+way+cfl
It is fluorescent
Try something like this: http://www.amazon.com/PureSpectrum-Fully-Dimmable-Spiral-Equivalent/dp/B004PUMAEK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1335115401&sr=1-2 :)
So I鈥檝e actually found those bulbs However they seem to be discontinued from what I can tell.
You fixture is rated for Br30 and Par30 Bulbs. I would try one of those.
Im in a college dorm with limited space, so here's my set up for my D. Capensis and VFT.
Clamp light
Light bulb
It's been working for me so far. I turn it on when I wake up and turn it off when the sun goes down. (Or if I wake up three hours after the sun goes up, I'll turn it off 3 hours after the sun goes down). My VFT went dormant as planned and my sundew is healthy. I have not been feeding them anything else yet.
Nothing at all wrong with mirrorless, as a matter of fact if you do decide to go camera shopping in the $500-$1500 range with a focus on video, you're mostly going to find people recommending mirrorless cameras. For example, I don't love Canon cameras in that range generally, but the M50 is a very nice camera for the price, has a flippy screen, great AF, and uses the same lenses as your current camera, so if you have a collection of glass already you wouldn't have to buy into a whole new system. This would also allow you to do cool A/B camera setups.
The lack of flippy screen does make getting focus harder. You could always put something in the exact spot you'd be standing, focus on that, hit record, and then go back to that spot. It's awkward, but it works. Generally speaking you'll probably want to shoot for a "flatter" image if you're shooting solo, meaning you'll want to close the aperture a little bit to increase the area that your camera can focus on. You'll lose some of that nice distinction between the in focus subject and the out of focus surroundings, but it makes it less likely for you to miss focus.
I will say, though, be careful about going down the rabbit hole of "I need new gear to make good videos." Before you know it you've spent thousands on new cameras and lenses, when really all you needed to do was light your scenes a little better and deal with the shortcomings of your current camera (there are ALWAYS shortcomings). Same with audio. A cheap but decent enough mic with some time in Audition or Audacity in post can produce very solid audio. There are times and places for the really really expensive stuff, but when you're a hobbyist it usually just isn't worth the cash.
With lights, shooting in doors will almost always land you with orange looking footage unless you change your lighting and double check your white balance settings. Unless you're going for a specific look, you usually want lights that are either 5500K-6500K. Something like this.
Now, those kinds of lights will feel insanely bright, and if it's all hitting one spot it will be too harsh, so you'll want either some diffusion fabric in front of it, light umbrellas, or soft boxes. Use the three point lighting system as your general guide, and adjust for style. Usually you'll want the lights as close to the subject as possible without being on screen.
Another tip, if you're going to to color work in post, is to try to keep the WB settings the same, as long as you're in the same location at the same time. So don't adjust your white balance, shoot for 20 minutes, and then re do your light balance because you think you didn't have the settings exactly right. This effectively doubles the amount of work you have to do correcting color in post, as you'll have to change your color work after you changed your WB settings. Better to be a little off in camera but be consistent. This is also why you don't want to use auto white balance, or at least one that changes all the time. If the colors of your image are changing constantly, correcting those colors in post is a losing battle.
Anyway, keep having fun with it! Hopefully some of that was helpful.
okay, thanks, and should I get this bulb and this lamp?
ebay or ebay or amazon or amazon won't work?
2700 lumens initially ? https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-47452-replacement-2700-Lumen/dp/B000S5OK12
I think you're probably using fixtures that aren't ideal for the task if a few of those bulbs isn't cutting it. Do you need something more directional or have you considered adding something like recessed LED lights to other corners of the room ?
I guess Amazon has a 3860 lumen version, if you just want to punt. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-78965-replacement-3860-Lumen/dp/B004H5YVWW
Well, CFLs are less expensive even if you only look at replacement cost. And some lights (e.g. outdoor lights) won't contribute heat to the building envelope.
Compare: 8000 hr CFLs for 94垄; 1000 hr incandescents for 25垄
i'm using 3 gallon trash cans from target. drilled drainage holes about a centimeter in diameter in the bottom in the center and 4 spots on the edges (it bows up in the middle so i put holes on the edges too). when i water i throw them in the bathtub and tilt them for ~20 minutes to ensure they train well. in the older plant's container i put some smaller holes on the sides about 2 inches from the bottom thinking it may need to "breath" to let the excess moisture out. i have 4 20-26 watt CFL's mostly 2700K i think i have one 5000 on it as well. on the smaller one i have a 5000K 26 watt CFL directly above it about 2-3 inches away (i read that feminized seeds can turn hermaphroditic if they get too much lower spectrum/2700K light when initially growing. dont think i read that on this site so who knows if it's true). i plan on giving it more lights once i get a few bucks and get some sockets that plug into a power strip, but i gotta make due for now. i'm growing in a cabinet i had laying around. i cut a hole in the back panel and installed a usb powered fan from microcenter. right now it's active intake but i need to swap it around as i read that if you only have 1 fan it should be active exhaust. i also have a box fan blowing at the lowest setting since i can't close the doors with my janky light setup. this is for airflow, and to keep them moving. not sure if the plant wiggling in flowering reduces bud growth since it may need to take more energy to stabilize itself instead of flowering.
i get what you're saying about wasting time. i kinda felt that way about not getting nutes, but i figure i'll just see what i can get from it. its a good use of time (to me) so i dont mind wasting it if i am. its a nice hobby and chills me out on the weekends just looking at the plants, reading about stuff, ect. this actually has me interested in a container garden for veggies/fruit so i'd consider this getting me into a hobby a win. if i thought there was a nutrient deficiency or pH was way off i'd probably plunk down the money to diagnose and fix the problem, similar to how i know i'm going to need a scope to check out the trichomes so i'm planning on getting one soon.
once i get moved to cali and settled i'd like to make 3 space buckets with something like these CFL's, but i may break down and go for a 250w HPS system everyone talks about but that may be something for a year or two down the road.
i think for my next grow i'm going to just use gardening materials/pots to eliminate that variable, but where i live it's a walking down and it's hard to get to a home depot without a car. i've walked to all the hardware stores around and target had the only supply of potting soil/containers i could find.
edit: added a pic of the drainage holes i drilled
I am gunning for some 5 gallons as soon as I can, thank you guys for making that clear enough! I was dragging my feet on that "minor" detail for a week or two now... I may have to keep the auto in the 1.5...
As for the CFLs something small like this http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Light-Sunlight-FML27-Spectrum/dp/B00BM780LG/ref=zg_bs_328863011_20 ?
I am trying to be cheap on electricity hence the LED setup. How much more light would I need. Can I get away with using like 4 low watt CFLs??
Used one of those timers as an alarm clock with this light bulb
Changing the settings on the timer was pretty annoying.
Something like this should work: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003XVSSC0?pc_redir=1407646755&robot_redir=1
Home Depot has them online as well.
The A15 refers to bulb diameter.
You want 6500k CFL for Veg and 2600k CFL for Flower
Oh. I would just give up on the LED and use a CFL that fits that small socket. I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/TCP-48918C-Candelabra-Compact-Fluorescent/dp/B007RQ3IGS/