(Part 2) Best contact cements according to redditors

You just need an adapter kit.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UG1C74

http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Gibson-6230-9-34-Weather-Cement/dp/B000BZ0Y3M

Oh sorry u said UK. Closest I could find

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-90505-Weather-Roof-Coating/dp/B0012L72C0/

I'd recommend removing as much of that old silicone first if you use a product like this. There's also no guarantee that the leak is coming from where you think it is.

For the chimney, what the hell is the inspector talking about when he says the chase need "prep and recoat"? I've never heard anyone in this profession say anything like that, unless he's talking about the crown. If that's the case, you could apply Crown Coat to it, the company technically doesn't sell their products to the general public because they'll always recommend a professional to do the work, but it looks like somebody is selling it on Amazon. It's pretty easy to apply, just pretty much paint a couple coats of it over the top of the crown, and it's cured in about 2-4 hours, plus there's directions on the bucket.

For the flashing, I also recommend another one of ChimneySaver's products, Flash Seal. It's another fantastic product and works great. Just put that flashing back against the roof and apply the seal as directed.

The relining of the flue is something I will absolutely insist you hire a professional to do, you are literally playing with fire here, not to mention inside your home. Contact a reputable CSIA certified chimney sweep to get an estimate on getting that properly relined. I don't know what the companies in your area do for relining, as there are several ways to do it. My company only does it one way since it's the only method that has been proven to us to be completely reliable without breaking up quickly or being an overall shitty job, and that is with a stainless steel liner, so try to find a good company that will do that.

For the rain cap, there are also several approaches to do that. If you get the stainless steel liner like I recommend, they will probably have to break out your old damper to access inside your smoke chamber to parge it and seal around the bottom of your new liner, so what they should do there is apply a top-mount damper, which basically works like this, so it kills 2 birds with one stone, plus the flue is sealed air-tight when it's not in use with these, as it has a silicone gasket seal. If not the damper, you could either get a cap that covers that lone flue, or else one that will cover the whole chimney chase, depending on if you have more flues on that chimney or not, and your personal taste. I will recommend getting stainless steel ones no matter what though.

That should be everything for the chimney, unless you REALLY trust these sellers, I'd recommend getting credited for the work, as they'll probably have someone half-ass it for as cheaply as possible, and that's one thing you do NOT want to half-ass.

I wouldn't use anything with aluminum in it in any quantity at forge temps, even if it's refractory lined. Best cast scenario, it leaks molten aluminum. I don't like that best case scenario so I certainly don't like the worst.

If you live somewhere cold enough to necessitate actual wood stoves, you might check a fireplace repair or supply company or the fireplace section of your hardware stores for a product called furnace cement; if you can't find it locally, hopefully you can order it online, word is that this "Chimney Sweep" type is the highest temperature rating but any of them should work fine, especially if you proceed to line it. 4 parts perlite to 1 part furnace cement, for a coffee can forge a 1/2 pint of furnace cement should be more than enough. The cement is sticky and hard to work, it's a lot easier if you mix it with 1/8 the volume of cement in water. Here's a workthrough for a crucible furnace partially made with the perlite/furnace cement refractory. If you can order online though, there's plenty of pure sodium silicate to be found. I hope some of this helps.

If you're dead set on sodium silicate, Rutland brand cement floor sealer is apparently 100% pure Na2SiO3, and hopefully you can find this locally. If absolute worst comes to worst, you can mix those little silica gel dessicant beads (or crush up some quartz crystals) and mix them with lye (sodium hydroxide drain cleaner). Good luck, let us know how it goes!

EDIT: after doing some reading I definitely wouldn't recommend going the sodium silicate route; with a melting temp of 1,200°F (the very low end of typical working temps for forges, steel would barely be at a dull red before your forge started to liquefy. I'd love to be proven wrong, though!) Worst case scenario now is just wasted money and knowledge gained.

Three hairline cracks. One half inch crack on the section, one quarter inch crack on the barrel and another small one on the barrel. I'm thinking I'll use maybe this or this instead of the first link.

This one?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006MXRWU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_bqsGAbB0T4M50

Once I get more tools and hopefully sell some items, the funds will towards better and more tools, including a creaser for the pocket tops.

Sorry to ask so much but that’s why I enjoy investing time in this hobby thanks to a community with people like you. With more practice and experience I hope to contribute my knowledge to beginners!

Yeah, this is a solvent based glue like the PVC glue.

The main difference is that this stuff is intended for assembling plastic model kits, normally styrene, it has a different chemical formula. The PVC solvent is nastier to work with, you don't want to breathe the fumes, it is corrosive so you don't want to get it on your skin or in your eyes, and so on.

By contrast, the non toxic model glue is meant to be safe enough for older kids to use.

Also, I double checked, and the glue I'm using is actually this brand. I doubt there is a difference, they seem to say they bond the same things.

If you want, you could use some 3M PM4 to fill the gap:

https://www.ebay.com/p/3M-Fire-Barrier-Packing-Material-Pm4-BULK-4-in-X-20-5-FT-5-Rolls/1054152999

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNSV2U

Hm. This patch kit costs $3.50, and has six patches. The round ones (4) are 25mm.

Rubber cement is $5, though there's also a gallon for $30. The cost of sandpaper for these purposes is negligible. A tube is maybe $5, and probably has enough rubber to make 29 2.5" square patches. Or ~63.5 mm. So plenty big enough to cut down into 146 square 25 mm patches. I'm measuring this based on a Specialized 700C x 28/38 tube, so you could probably increase that by buying the biggest tube you can find.

I can't really say anything about how the sticking power of these patches compare, but when you think about a tube's place in the tire, it likely wouldn't matter.

EDIT: changed some patch math