(Part 2) Best electrical home improvement books according to redditors

I'm a DIY noob. Here's some of the stuff that's helped me.

I got hosed a few times by contractors before I learned enough to start asking the right questions. This book helped me get onto the right path. Checklists and battle plan for remodels and new construction, based on the experience of 100s of projects. What Your Contractor Won't Tell You https://www.amazon.com/What-Your-Contractor-Cant-Tell/dp/0979983800

I bought some Journal of Light Construction books. True, their Field Guides are way overkill for me and my projects, but they're very cool. https://www.jlconline.com https://www.amazon.com/s?i=stripbooks&rh=p_27%3AJournal+of+Light+Construction&s=relevancerank&text=Journal+of+Light+Construction&ref=dp_byline_sr_book_1

I like those Matt Risinger videos quite a bit too. https://www.youtube.com/user/MattRisinger

The most useful books I've bought are the Code Check short guides. I just read them until I kinda understand them. As a total noob, that takes a while. Here's the electrical title. https://www.amazon.com/Code-Check-Electrical-Illustrated-Wiring/dp/1631869167/

The knowledgeable staff at my local pro suppliers have been super helpful. Especially Ferguson's. I really can't say enough good things about all the people who've helped me. Sometimes you get lucky at Home Depot and the like. But they pay shit and they're understaffed, so don't judge.

This is what I used. It helped get me used to navigating the book, and several of the practice questions were on the test.

FUCK those tabs they are almost useless. Instead get some glue, pages 71-74 will come off the book because that's where you will start/end almost every time.

https://www.amazon.ca/Uglys-Electric-Motors-Controls-2017/dp/1284119424/ref=pd_aw_fbt_14_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KX55HAHVG3W9EM5RYCHF

This is probably what you're looking for.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/128411936X/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A12UFBL1JPT2UF&psc=1

This one covers everything though.

I'm assuming your in the US.

AC = alternating current (120V or 240V), current moves forward and backward really fast in a sine wave pattern
DC = direct current (12V, 18V, or 24V) current only moves forward

P = power
V = Voltage
I = Current
R = Resistance

P=IV and V=IR
For ac there is a power factor of 0.7 for power calculation.

A light bulb example:

60W bulb @ 120VAC --> 60=I1200.7 --> I = 0.5A/0.7 = 0.72A
60W bulb @ 24VDC --> 60=I*24 --> I = 2.5A

Your breakers are rated in amps and voltage. A 600V, 15A breaker could handle (20) bulbs @ 120VAC, but only (6) at 24VDC.

It's a little more complicated than that, but you get the gist. Also, lower voltage means you have more losses for the same resistance. This can be minimized with small runs (easy for a tiny house) and over sized wires. High amps means more heat generated which means thicker wires to lower the resistance.

If you do decide to do the electric yourself, go to a book store or home depot or the like and ask for the electricians Ugly Book. It's a simplified easier to understand version of the National Electrical Code (NEC) code.

http://www.amazon.com/Uglys-Electrical-References-2011-George/dp/0763790990/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1321844962&sr=8-1

I'd add a few things. I think if someone is indiscriminately adding antibiotics to the sack, you might also want to take some Epi-Pens in case someone has an allergic reaction. A very cheap book available here gives you useful information like indications, pediatric dosing, and so on. Also, if you take tetracycline, don't take it after its expiration date. The jury is still out on whether it's actually harmful, but it's better safe than sorry.

On the subject of BC pills, I would suggest either monophasic formulations or the medroxyprogesterone injectable (Depo-Provera) over multi-phasic formulations, the chance of spotting increases. Plan B and condoms aren't a bad idea either. If you have a pregnant woman in your party, Methergine stops post-labor bleeding.

As far as pain relief goes, any of the NSAIDs are solid bets (watch out, people with an allergy to sulfa drugs can have a bad reaction to Celebrex) as well as narcotic painkillers. The best narcs will be locked up.
If you have access to cool storage, insulin could be a useful bargaining tool/barter item, even if you don't have a diabetic in your party.

Beta blockers can be used for headaches as well as high blood pressure. I would probably take the nitroglycerin too.

I'd probably grab all the albuterol inhalers in the pharmacy too. Also great for bartering, useful in the case of bronchitis.

From the OTC department I'd load up on bandages, hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, iodine, multivitamins (who knows what your diet's going to be like and who wants to escape the zombies only to die of scurvy or something?)

Don't expect the pharmacy's paper reference to be up to date. Just a warning.

If you had equal access, I would hit a hospital pharmacy over a retail one. Lots more of the lifesaving drugs, including injectable drugs, which might be useful if you have a nonresponsive person.

Disclaimer: Not a doctor, just a certified pharmacy tech.

I've seen some stuff I agree with that you guys do, and some stuff I disagree with. For the most part I think we're about equally safe, however my biggest "wtf are you doing" is in regards to your "inspections" (Which from what I've gathered are only visual?) and your inspectors. It's something I've mentioned before.

Here;
https://www.reddit.com/r/electricians/comments/5xl23h/how_do_you_test_and_tagwhat_is_your_procedure/dejd71o/


> For the UK before energising on a regular circuit. (Skipping some more obscure tests cause I'm on mobile.)

1. continuity of circuit protective conductors. Including bonding conductors. Polarity is often checked as a byproduct of this test
   
2. continuity of ring final conductors
   
3. insulation resistance
   
4. polarity if not checked above
   Energise up to the main switch, disconect bonding to extranous conductive parts
   
5. external earth fault loop impedence and perspective fault current.
   Reconnect bonding
   
6. prospective short circuit current.
   
7. RCD trip times
   
8. earth fault loop impedance tests for each circuit. Gutta make sure those breakers will actually trip in time.
   All of these tests are carried out with a serial numbered tester, the serial number is recorded on the certificate.
   Full tests can be found here;
   http://electriciancentre.co.uk/how-to/electrical-inspection-testing-sequence-tests/>
   
   
   All our tests are recorded on certificates with the serial number of the test machine used, as well as the particulars of the person actually signing the work off. It's a whole separate qualification that needs to be undertaken on top of being a qualified Sparks. Testing is so rigorous here that we have a whole separate book to help explain it in further detail.
   
   https://www.amazon.co.uk/Guidance-Note-3-Inspection-Testing/dp/1849192758
   
   
   We also regularly inspect installations to confirm they're still up to standard and identify any dangerous situations caused by additions or wear and tear. The period between inspections varies based on installations, from as little as 6 months up to 10 years.
   
   Edit- Oh and like your inspectors, if I find something unsatisfactory during an initial inspection I'll refuse to certify it or get it fixed there and then. There's a whole separate form for that.
   
   Condition reports rank faults from C1-C3. A C1 fault requires an immediate fix / disconnection, C2 requires a fix ASAP, and a C3 is just an area you can improve on. Ambiguous faults are ranked FI, which means we need to investigate further.

I used this

https://www.amazon.com/Install-Your-Own-Solar-Panels-ebook/dp/B01L83TSZ0/ref=sr_1_11?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1550777772&sr=1-11&keywords=solar+do+it+yourself

I felt it had good info but lacked a bit for String Inverter with Optimizers.

I also watched a ton of the videos SolarEdge has on their equipment on youtube. Seriously, super helpful.

Two books that I've seen mentioned other places are Audel Basic Machine Shop, which gives an overview on various machines, what they do, etc.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/076455526X/ref=pd_aw_sims_3?pi=SL500_SY115&simLd=1

The next is basic blue print reading. Self explanatory.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/083113125X?pc_redir=1411016091&robot_redir=1
An aptitude for math and geometry is certainly a plus as well.

I personally haven't used either but they have great reviews. I do use peter smid's cnc programming textbook in shop quite often. My dad used to let me mill on wood with dull tools when I was a kid to learn the basics and principals. Grooming me for the family business if you will lol.
As far as moving up, just show the imitative and a willingness to learn. Community college classes can teach you a lot. Our industry is experiencing growth as far as need, and guys in our age bracket aren't interested in the work. As someone said, learning the maitence on the machines is a good first step. Be vocal about your desire to become a machinist but be courteous too.

Pick up a "Do your own wiring" book at any hardware store - or library.

You aren't being berated - every one of us here has had a foreman who was a master 'berater'. And if we'd done this it might have involved boots and asses and repetition. And some extremely bad words.

These are good:

https://www.amazon.com/Wiring-House-Completely-Revised-Updated/dp/162710674X

https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Guide-Installations-Step-Step/dp/1580117872

https://www.amazon.com/Homeowners-DIY-Guide-Electrical-Wiring/dp/0071844759

Ugly's is always a solid choice for reference.
Ugly's Electric Motors & Controls, 2017 Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/1284119424/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TlHCDbE0AZYSF

No, not usually. I suppose it may depend on your area, but you're just normally told what you did wrong then you have to fix it. Honestly, electrical isn't that difficult to get right. It's mostly knowing what not to do and following some pretty basic simple principles. A decent getting started book is easy to find but be sure it isn't too outdated. Here's a pretty decent one. You can probably find a copy at your local big box store, too, if you prefer.

(Link sanitized. I forgot my bookmarklet grabs the affiliate versions for blog posts and such.)

While I agree with the other responses that it's not too important to be an expert on the subject for the interview, Fiber Optic Communications is the authoritative reference with a few chapters on fibers and light propagation, while the Fiber Optics Technician's Manual will give much more specific info on fiber types and connectors in use in industry today.

You can do the upgrade yourself if you really want. Check out this book for a good resource on how to do it to code. Note though, that it sounds like it will take two days, most likely due to waiting on the utility to shut off/on the power before/after the project.

There's nothing you can't do without the right tools, patience and some will to learn. With that being said, I can't recommend Taunton's Press books enough. YouTube videos and online tutorials are good, but these books are so well made, easy to follow and make for fantastic handheld references:

​

Wiring Complete

Plumbing Complete

Carpentry Complete

Trim Complete

​

Start small. Take it one project at a time. There's nothing that you see on a DIY show that you can't do yourself. I'm a firm believer in that.

This book covers reversing the direction of motors.

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Motors-Home-Workshop-Applications/dp/1854861336

It's a good read, and will tell you which types of motors can be reversed and how to do the wiring.

Rex's book is a great great thing on wiring a house:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NU9ZCB0/ref=dp-kindle-redirect?_encoding=UTF8&btkr=1

He basically goes over the essentials, how to get to code and how go beyond code. Highly recommended.

Ugly's Electrical References covers literally everything you'll need as far as formulas and code stuff goes.

House from the 1970's isn't too old as far as wiring is concerned, but "the guy wired the house himself" is a little worrisome. I'm assuming he didn't actually get inspections, since what you've described was most definitely not up to code even in the 70's.

I couldn't really trust anything, knowing that.

If you truly want 20 amps in the office, you'll have to rewire the entire office inside the walls because it probably only has 14 gauge wire. I guess this because it's currently only a 15 amp circuit.

If by some chance the office had 12 gauge wire internally and you made it its own 20 amp circuit, you'd still have to replace all the receptacles with ones that have 20 amp plugs, or 15 amp plugs but are rated for 20 amp pass thru.

Depending on the location of the main panel to the office, and the accessibility of the attic/crawlspace, it would probably be relatively easy - from a technical standpoint - to get the office on its own 15 amp circuit. After mapping out the current branch circuit you can figure out where the easiest place is to cut off the office and attach it to a new home run.

But it probably still not be up to code and would not be something a licensed electrician would do or that you could get a permit for. Here's some possible problems:

• In residential work, the NEC technical lets you have an infinite number of outlets on a branch circuit, but local code might be stricter and enforce commercial limits. That would mean that a 15 amp circuit can have no more than 10 outlets and a 20 amp can have no more than 13. An "outlet" is a receptacle, a light fixture, a smoke detector, or any other hard wired device that taps in to the circuit. So if the 2 bedrooms and living room have more than 10 receptacles, lights, smoke detectors, or others in total... many jurisdictions won't allow it.
  
  
• Walls now need receptacles every 8 feet. Many older homes don't have this, so you'd have to add them.
  
  
• Living rooms and bedrooms both need switched lighting at each entrance. This means a light switch controlling a permanent light fixture or a receptacle that you can plug a lamp in to. If this guy wired things himself he might not have done this.
  
  
• The actual wiring above (attic) or below (basement/crawlspace) the walls might not be to code as far as been secured, having running boards when running perpendicular to joists, all splices being in a junction box, etc etc.
  
  Note I am not an electrician, just an experienced DIYer whose dealt with owner-builder permits and inspectors.
  
  If you really want a definitive, well written, easy to comprehend book on everything you'll be facing, I cannot recommend this book enough.
  
  
  

What a fucking scam.

Don't get me wrong, I've got a decent library, and I'll never knock the value of a good reference. But for schools to sell these books to greenies at price enough that ~30 books costs $1200 is totally ridiculous and bordering unethical.

• A used copy of the 2011 NEC can be gotten for ~$40 on eBay or less than $70 new.
  
  
• Transformer Princpals and Applications? $9.
  
  
• Electrical Systems for the 2011 NEC? $13
  
  
• Electrical Safety Related Work Practices? $9.
  
  
• Many IAEI meetings give away copies of the UL White Book for free, and you can find it in PDF for the few times you'll need it.
  
  You wanna learn to bend conduit? Buy an Ugly's book and a bundle of pipe, or just download a $2 app for your phone.
  
  And there's simply no reason in the world for a 2nd year apprentice to require whatever the hell is in an entire textbook about blueprint reading. Basic print reading ain't anywhere near that involved.
  
  This just strikes me as a way to separate the naive from their money under the guise of giving them an "education." What a crock.

I'm very new to Machining so I mainly wanted to read about the basics so I went with this one? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/076455526X?ref_=mw_olp_product_details

Yuuuuup, feeling the same way except i think i'd like to get more into the microcontroller/FPGA field of EE.

I ended up getting this book a while ago and it's actually been quite helpful in explaining things in a manageable and very equation-lite way. Definitely gonna need another source for more in-depth but for the basics it's quite good.
Something like this would also be good to have for reference.