(Part 2) Best fixed-blade knives according to redditors

I wouldn't recommend a "titanium" knife, firstly because for $10, it's not titanium. It's probably some chinesium knife that won't hold an edge very well. Secondly I don't recall Camillus having a great reputation due to materials and QC.

If you're looking for a good budget knife, I know Ka-Bar and Becker make good ones, and if you can swing an Izula, that would be my choice. Here are some links. Izula Ka-Bar 1 Ka-Bar 2 Ka-Bar 3.

The reason I'm recommending Ka-Bar and ESEE is that they both use 1095 carbon steel which is an excellent choice in toughness and edge retention. I almost forgot Mora, a superb Swedish knife that is renowned for its steel and edge retention, and used worldwide by folks in the workforce and outdoors communities.

The ESEE and Ka-Bars will run you $40-$60, and the mora will run you about $15. You can get Moras and Izulas at Cabelas, but Amazon is also great. Good luck.

$16.48 at Amazon

Strongly agree here. I'd suggest a knife with a blunt tip like one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Craftline-Utility-Combi-Sheath-3-2-Inch/dp/B00TO03KUE

You can also blunt the tip of any knife with a coarse stone.

Check out the Cold Steel Lucky One model.

Is relatively small, has carbon fiber handle, two-handed opening S35VN blade and a pocket clip.

Great price too.

Looks like the Bradford is $101 on Amazon. Same one?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017F8MLLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_r.j4BbS29936K

Looks like a Gerber 500 or at least a knockoff I say that because most Gerber knives have markings at the base of the blade on both sides. They don't manufacture these anymore so you'd have to buy used if you want to replace it or you could pick up something like the Gerber LST for pretty cheap.

Mora Craftline Safeword. But it would be better in stainless.

Here's the Pro S in carbon steel. It has a longer tang (3/4), than the one shown, and a better sheath. They also come in stainless, and robust models, all with different color inserts in the handle. I have one, it's really good.

If you want a piece of steel for cheap and have the tools to make one, this here will get the job done

Hi fellow canoe-er!

I've been to the Quetico Provincial Park side of those lakes a half dozen times. My favorite knife to lug is a Mora Craftline in stainless. It's all the knife you need and there is next to zero concern about corrosion. Plus, it's super light! Take that, portages!

And, it's like 12 bucks, so you can buy 3 and have enough left over in your budget to snag some fuel for your featherlight camp stove.

Also, I am jealous. I was just talking to my brothers about making a trek up to the Boundary Waters. Hope you have a good time!

Hultafors serrated

Mora rope knife

These can do work. Even if they fail, it's $15-$20 and can be replaced.

Batoning a K-bar will get you very far. That being said I have carried the Gerber Back-pax and have used it to fall a ~12" tree to make a water crossing. It was work, but it did work.

I really really like a $13 Mora. Rugged, sharp as heck, solid...so cheap you don't feel bad really really using it and beating the piss out of it. A real been-there-done-that guy I know recommended them to me and after using one (and having lots of other fixed blades, I truly love it)
https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-Military-4-1-Inch/dp/B004TNWD40
They make a serrated also:
https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Bushcraft-Serrated-4-3-Inch-Stainless/dp/B00K70MLK0/ref=sr_1_10?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1509940703&sr=1-10&keywords=mora+black


If I was going to pick anything maybe one of these:
http://www.jayfisher.com/USAF_Pararescue_Knives.htm

This with an aftermarket sheath:
https://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Snody-Handle-Included-Purple/dp/B00ILFNAYY


Actually what am I smoking. This: 100x this. If you've held it in your hand you know that it is the most comfortable knife I've ever held.

http://www.benchmade.com/bushcrafter-family.html

Although the Busse I'm evaluating now is pretty dope.... I still want a Benchmade Bushcrafter.

If it was for overall survival/utility I'd want a Himalayan Imports Khukuri.

For Search/Rescue specifically... give me a tanto-point, combo-edge...honking chunk of steel.
https://www.topsknives.com/knives/tactical/tops-pry-knife-ppp-tool
https://www.topsknives.com/knives/survival/smoke-jumper

Could be persuaded to try these
http://www.benchmade.com/fixed-blade-knives.html?blade_style_shape=861

something stupid and overbuilt (in the best way)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Axt6pJERJ38

Pocketboy + Mora = $34.75
Weight: about 9 ounces.

Basic Estwing hatchet = $33.22
Weight: 1.3 lb.

Here's the Amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/SPYDERCO-Kitchen-Utility-SpyderEdge-Knife/dp/B00J2X7F9U

It's the Spyderco K04SBK

Spyderco kitchen utility knife For those who are curious.

"MBS-26 is the unevolved brother of VG-10. Take away a bit of vanadium and cobalt and there you have it, MBS-26.

This is an excellent alloy for kitchen knives. It possesses very good corrosion resistance with about 15% chromium, and good edge retention with about .9% carbon. It can be hardened to 60 Rc, but I'm not sure how hard the Spyderco blades are. Probably a bit softer, due to their use in the kitchen."

edit: quote not mine.

http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Craftline-Allround-Stainless-3-8-Inch/dp/B0090UW9E6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1374624809&sr=8-12&keywords=stainless+steel+fixed+blade+knife

>Marttiini Lynx Knife, 7.5in.

>Carbon steel

>3.9" blade


>Handle: Stained Birch


https://www.amazon.com/Marttiini-121016-Lynx-Knife-7-5in/dp/B004J5SERI

What are you chopping, exactly?

A 3-blade stockman pattern folder will do at least 90% of what you need on a backpacking trip. I've been on bushwhacking treks in deep backcountry over mountainous terrain and never needed more than that.

For bigger woodwork, you can't beat these

http://www.amazon.com/Marttiini-121016-Lynx-Knife-7-5in/dp/B004J5SERI/

Don't baton your knife. Buy one of these for ten bucks and beat it like the family mule:

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWHT16065-Side-Strike-Chisel/dp/B006E3OQDY

That's only if you need to split logs or bust up a tree stump or engine block or something.

Do carry a folding saw though. Very light, good for emergencies.

Those things you listed, I would only use for major brush clearing or, I dunno, search and rescue? That SP8 could go through somebody's front door. (Saw teeth on the back are nearly useless BTW.) All that stuff is heavy and bulky. Might as well carry a hatchet or youth axe at that point, and even a $20 one from the hardware store will beat most any knife at felling, bucking, and splitting. Gotta sharpen it though.

Edit: a better side-strike chisel

http://www.amazon.com/Narex-Batoning-Chisel-Holster-816032/dp/B0165X7GXY

I'll be that guy who recommends a Kershaw Skyline. Very light, decent steel, fun to flip, and has a very sleek profile. If you wanted to save a few bucks you could buy a blem from kershawguy.

With your remaining money I'd use it to buy a Mora for your camping and hiking needs. Highly recommended budget friendly fixed blade on this subreddit. This + the skyline should only cost you around $60-$70 total.

Another off the top of my head would be the Esee Zancudo.

Other than that maybe a SAK of your choice or Leatherman.

I like this Gerber LST Ultralight at 17grams ($10): https://amazon.com/dp/B000WYZHDO

Or this at Buck Knife 283 Nano Bantam at 20grams and a fair bit more sturdy IMO ($17): https://amazon.com/dp/B000EI0VVQ

That's a legitimate problem with packing a hatchet, one that is actually useful is going to be heavy. This is really functional for most things you would need a hatchet for, including pounding. This seems like a good idea but the handle is too short to be useful for much, plus the short handle is dangerous and it's not much lighter than the longer handled version. This goddamn thing is useless. Like maybe you could use it to chop yourself a new handle and use the cord to lash it. The last two might be ok for hunting if you need to split a pelvis or trim a lane, but you might as well use a saw because it won't be as loud. It does look like a nice hatchet though, I'd be tempted to bring it anyways if I was in an area where I could do some actual bushcraft or would be spending more time in one area.

How classic do you want the look to remain / what's your budget?

If you want just a single blade, lionsteel makes good single blade options. Below is an example, granted this is a top of the line model (carbon fiber & m390 steel)

https://www.collectorknives.net/shop/lion-steel-knives/lion-steel-ck01/lion-steel-dom-sheepfoot-jack-black-carbon-fiber-handles-m390-steel-ck0115/


Cheaper and combining classic with new materials you could get a cold steel lucky one. (S35vn steel and carbon fiber)

Two blades:


Cold Steel 54VPM Lucky One https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019RSXA70/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_4MA5Bb4WW30R8


One blade:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372091336022

Do you happen to know if these Cold Steel knives have a lockback?

https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Point-Carpenters-58TPCC/dp/B00U1IAFRY/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1473358913&sr=1-2&keywords=cold+steel+code+4

How can you tell from before you feel the knife opening?

> Can I get some best-in-class suggestions for sub-$100, ~$150, and sub $200? Might get lucky with a sale.

You also said you wanted a good slicer so I'm going with that as my main criteria. Also these are my opinions.

Sub $100: Spyderco Delica 4 Lightweight FRN Or Spyderco Endura 4

$150-ish: Spyderco ParaMilitary2 G-10 In many peoples opinion this is probably the best EDC blade available.

Under $200-ish: Zero Tolerance 0450CF

---------------------------------

Other great knives for EDC:
Ontario RAT II - Only $25. Worth getting for when someone wants to "borrow your knife".

Benchmade 940-2 - $180-ish. Light easy to carry, not much belly to the blade shape so not always the best for slicing.

Spyderco Dragonfly 2 - $50ish depending on the color. Small knife, easy to carry. Unless your EDC tasks involve skinning wild animals, this will work fine.

Cold Steel Code4 $70-ish. Great steel, thin knife so it carries easily, slices well thanks to think factory grind.

Cold steel master Hunter in 3v link

So I bought the morakniv cratfline electrician tradknife for my brother for christmas this las year. He uses if for everything he needs working in HVAC. It hasn't been a year yet but he takes it everywhere and he keeps it sharp with a fallkniven cc4. Very easy to sharpen since it has a scandi grind.



https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Craftline-Electrician-Stainless-1-3-Inch/dp/B00T3EZRK2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=morakniv+electrician+knife&qid=1566258180&s=gateway&sprefix=morakniv+electrician&sr=8-2

I have had good luck with the NRS pilot knife although just looking at the reviews they don't get high marks.

http://www.nrs.com/product/47300.02/nrs-pilot-knife

I have never had an issue with mine and I thought the longer knife would make it better for other uses. The smaller version co-pilot might be a better option if you are pinning it to your pfd.

My fishing knife, pointy end, not on my pfd is a stainless steel "Mora", also a great knife and would be hard to find as good a knife for the price.

http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Craftline-Utility-Sandvik-Stainless/dp/B00T3E692M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1464756784&sr=8-4&keywords=mora+knife+stainless

Morakniv, in carbon.

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-4-1-Inch-Military/dp/B004TNWD40/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=morakniv+carbon&qid=1567806292&s=gateway&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Craftline-Allround-Combi-Sheath-3-6-inch/dp/B00T3DNELW/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=morakniv+carbon&qid=1567806292&s=gateway&sr=8-7

If it rusts, he knows he's not taking care of it.

I must admit, I've never tried that particular knife. I have a different fixed blade gerber knife that I've beat the crap out of for years and it still stands strong.

Edit: this one

This is not the tactical one, nor the serrated one. The serrated one is this and the tactical one is this. This is the old Mora Bushcraft Black.

I own each of these. The Mora Bushcraft Triflex is what I carry in the field. The others are still fantastic.

Morakniv Companion

Morakniv Craftline HighQ

Mora Bushcraft Triflex (seems out of stock at Amazon)

$13 Mora on Amazon (different colors are linked from that page) Also, to get free shipping I did the free amazon prime trial for one month. Just make sure to uncheck the auto update, or after a month they will automatically charge you $80/month for prime.

There is the Ka-Bar Becker Remora, which is just over $20.

Ok one thing about knives is that they are tools and just like tools you get what you pay for. I camp and hunt quite a bit and these two will be all you need. The BK9 for chopping, cutting, hacking, spliting, hammering, and all other sorts of camping needs. Use the Remora if you need to skin something or do some fine wood work such as notch making or anything else of the sort.

I have a great (does not have Bear Grylls name on it), light (1.2 oz) little, inexpensive knife (less than $15 US): Gerber LST

I also carry a Leatherman PST, which is handy for the tools like the screwdriver and the file especially. I would rather have the PST II which has a scissors, so you could trim your nails.

I think the perfect multitool would have a drop point blade that is half serrated and locking , file, saw, scissors , pliers, wire cutter, can opener. and very light weight. Damn - now I am not satisfied with my multitool and am shopping. I blame the justicehaze.

Knife: definitely something more beefy than the Leek (while it is a beautiful knife you may want something more rugged I like the Ontario rat 2 or the fixed blade Rat 3 I also like this gerber "survival knife"
Light: that's a great light good pick
Multitool: This gerber is my favorite, they've taken me through two deployments overseas and still run like a champ
Pen: Space pen for sure

I'm a bit late, but if you're looking for something that goes a bit beyond the standard escape tool, you could consider something along the lines of a Gerber LMF II ASEK (http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-22-01400-LMF-Survival-Knife/dp/B000G0HP5C/ref=pd_cp_hi_4).

I keep one strapped to the cage of my Jeep just in case I ever need it. The ASEK has a built in safety knife (for cutting seatbelt type material) and the handle of the knife itself can be used as a hammer/punch.

Why not two? Morakniv makes an electrician specific knife. And then there's its Eldris which is more versatile and can be worn around the neck. Both are tiny and are under $50 total.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T3EZRK2/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01J7MM5M2/ref=pd_aw_sim_468_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B4KS3MBGX08M9QFNPM0V#nav-search-keywords

Esee Izula is $75 and has a great warranty.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O24R9EA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483690874&sr=8-3&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=Esee+knife

I tend to like fixed knives for simplicity. Hope this helped.

Here's an Eldris review from my favorite YouTube knife channel:

https://youtu.be/nIuycY8YwC4

Personally, if the file isnt completely dulled, i'd save the file as old files tend to be really fucking good and just buy new steel. Because of rising fuel prices, rising minimum wages, and easier availability to annealed steel stock that's exactly what you want, there's just about no reason for someone who's not already an expert on metallurgy to work on a file as a knife.

The reasons you would would be:

1. Leaving it hardened, and just being very gentle with a grinder and keeping it cooled (so you dont have to work with heat treating it at all).
   
   
2. Artistic value (however if you're making a camping knife, i'd hazard a guess at the goal of this not being to flex your bladesmith skills at an art show)
   
   
3. For someone who's already great at annealing and doesnt care about the ridiculous time sink it is, a relatively cheap sunday project.
   
   The reason im against it is because annealing properly is a process that (for someone who i'd assume doesnt have a high-powered, accurate forge and the skills to maintain the temperature) can easily fry and decarb the metal (bad) and if done right, takes a while and gas. The time it takes and the gas cost would be equivalent to, if you live in any western country (which im assuming from your username and english that you do) at least 20$. With that money, you could just hop onto amazon and buy something like this https://www.amazon.com/RMP-Knife-Making-Blank-Annealed/dp/B074927X9K/, which is longer than the file most likely is (giving you more options) and is already annealed.