Best fuel pressure testers according to redditors
We found 40 Reddit comments discussing the best fuel pressure testers. We ranked the 16 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 40 Reddit comments discussing the best fuel pressure testers. We ranked the 16 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I'd say that's OK. I've had 3 different dealers tell me to run new my cars until the car says to change the oil, 10 k miles, or 1 year. Usually the rate of % of oil life dropping would mean it would tell me to change at about 12k, but I always get paranoid and change around 8k. These guys are the ones who are going to have to do the warranty replace on the engine if it fails so I don't think they're yanking my chain. Besides, they could upsell an oil change before it gets there for more $$$.
The guys at the shop I worked at and learned most of this stuff from said he's seen cars easily go 12k miles on synthetic. And even 15k miles is doable with Mobile 1 Extended Performance recommending it
If you're worried about it, you can get something like this to test the oil. I know there's also services where you can get some oil and send it in to their lab at 7500 miles then they tell you how much life was left in it.
But, IMO where safer is better, 5k on synthetic is fine, 7,500 is where I start getting paranoid, and >10k is an unnecessary risk.
You could buy a coolant tester and see where it sits, then syphon off some and replace with coolant until it is what you are looking for. They are pretty cheap, here is an example:
Amazon linky
Why buy when you can wander onto any GA ramp you like and sump your own? ;)
This is the best answer, so I'm just tagging on to say that there's a cheap tool to tell you how much water there's in your coolant.
https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY
That could be the head gasket but you should do a compression check first. Also check your oil and see if it's looking milky. The leak can go both ways.
It's not like the hg is a hard job but it's not cheap to do right and there's no point doing it unnecessarily.
Edit: and a compression tester doesn't have to be expensive. I have this one. It's not the fanciest or most accurate but since you're looking for relative values here, it gets the job done fine.
Sounds like antifreeze. If you want to see what the specific gravity (coolant to water ratio) go get one of these from a local parts store.
The issue for me was that I had a rough idle and lack of power. Acceleration was fine, but maintaining that on inclines was hard. The problem was an excess of air getting into the system past the MAS.
MAS is certainly a good thing to fix. Might also look at the O2 sensor and other fuel ratio sensors. When idling, you give the engine a bit of fuel to just barely inch along. When accelerating you're throwing fuel at the engine, so it probably burns bad, but it's burning and accelerating fine. If you opened up your valves you would probably find them getting dirty, not that this is something you should do unless the problem persists. If you want you can get a compression tester and test your valves it might be educational though. I believe it's a relatively cheap and easy test to perform. My mechanic used something like this.
Anyway, like I said, I'm not super knowledgable about vehicles, but am quite good at troubleshooting. I hope your problem gets resolved. It was a long process for me to trace down my issue. I believe it was the O2 sensor, and that Intake Manifold gasket, that fixed the lions share of my problems, but I also had my valves done between these two resolutions.
Long story short, research, and discussion with your mechanic will ultimately resolve the situation, but just because they replaced a part and your warning light came back on doesn't mean they did something wrong. Good Luck!
10k is a lot on mobil 1 if you drive mostly in the city. On your next oil change either send a sample to blackstone for an oil analysis or buy a Lubricheck.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrnzD7PgoHI
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2393/article.html
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3620-Vacuum-Gauge/dp/B000EW0KPY/ref=lp_15729801_1_1/192-6259905-2648831?ie=UTF8&qid=1372344481&sr=1-1
Might be able to get one cheaper from Harbor Freight. Make sure it has a way to connect to one of the engine's vacuum hoses.
Other than that, I would suggest getting a mechanic to look at it, at your expense. A reasonable person that isn't trying to hide anything would allow a mechanic to take a look at it.
I have that one! :P
This is one reason I use a GATS jar. Hard to drop that thing in the tank and its harder (not impossible damn 20 kt wind) to get avgas all over your hands.
Use this tool (leak down tester) http://www.amazon.com/OTC-5609-Cylinder-Leakage-Tester/dp/B0030EVL60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414683096&sr=8-1&keywords=leak+down+tester
You wont be able to do a regular compression test really since you cant crank the engine when its not hooked up to a starter/battery. But the leak down tester only requires you to manually crank the engine to top dead center for the cylinder you are testing.
If the leak down test results are good, then there is no need to replace the head gaskets at all. Here is a walkthrough on how to do a leak down test. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LFMhc
When buying the engine ask for what the compression is on each cylinder. some offer it up front, some do not.
some visual clues are:
white smoke coming from the tailpipe.
open the radiator overflow and look for bubbles when the engine is running.
when the engine running but still cold, also open the radiator cap and also look for bubbles.
if your radiator is low on fluid, its going somewhere, could be a clue.
otherwise like outflow said, the definitive way is to do a leakdown test, which requires an air compressor, a socket and ratchet to turn the crankshaft, and the tool itself. http://www.amazon.com/OTC-5609-Cylinder-Leakage-Tester/dp/B0030EVL60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397054273&sr=8-1&keywords=otc+leakdown+tester
Go find out if your local autoparts store has a cooling system test kit that can be rented for a day. Like this. You will need the right adapter to screw into where the coolant reservoir cap is.
Pump it up to a few PSI and start looking for the leak. This test kit will allow you to find the leak without warming up the engine so you don't end up scalding yourself from the hot coolant possibly spraying you and burning yourself from making contact with the engine.
Plus if you pinpoint the problem, you can get the replacement part and fix it asap instead of waiting for the engine/cooling system to cool down to replace.
OTC.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5606-Compression-Tester-Kit/dp/B000R5CPAQ
You can buy a set of adapters from Oreillys and many other places for cheap that will cover pretty much anything.
I bet it's the fuel pressure regulator, I had a very similiar problem on a 88 Merkur. I had to "charge up" the fuel rail by turning the key on and allowing the fuel pump to get that pressure up, but I could only go short distances before I wouldn't have enough pressure to run all the injectors, and it would stall.
Get one of these, or borrow one from a parts store and watch a few videos on how to diagnose a fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump.
I would start with that regulator first and make sure you are getting all the fuel you need. If that's not it come back and we'll look at the electrical system and timing.
I think that /u/rld14 pretty much covered it. But there are a few things I would add. Some of these may not apply to you, but this thread could be useful to others.
Yes, if it says its low, water is fine. Just make sure you get the mix right when you go to replace it.
https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY
There still around. I have one.
https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY
Amazon calls the coolant testers, but they used to be called something else. Like a hydrometer, though I know that isn't the name of these things.
I just got a Beckett Rocket.
A linux program, RTL_433, apparently has support for this and I was planning on writing an Alexa skill so I could ask it how much oil I have as well as have it email me when it hits 25%.
The wireless oil sensor that RTL_433 supports appears to be the European version of the Beckett Rocket as it runs at 433Mhz where the US version of the Rocket runs at 915 and thus a whole new decode routine needs to be written. I'm in the very early stages of doing that.
But until then all you have to do is check the receiver which is easier than going out to the garage (or in my case, outside in the side yard).
a set of quick disconnect tools for fuel lines etc?
fuel pressure tester is a must for troubleshooting
One more quick question before I buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-948004-Bearing-Race-Installer/dp/B005SMUOR4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1501781330&sr=8-6&keywords=bearing+driver+set#Ask
How do I know which size adapter I need for my bearings?
Thanks for the input. I might post the new video to the front of this subreddit to see if anyone can recognize the noise now that it's clearly audible.
Too lean, like too much advance, would cause pinging, right? Wouldn't that be more of a rough, bbs-in-a-tin-can sort of sound? And I tried driving it with the vacuum advance disconnected, the sound did not change.
I have been putting off buying a compression tester, because I didn't want an overly cheap one, but I guess now's the time. I'm going to order the OTC one, it has great reviews. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K2FSXI) When I pull the spark plugs to check compression, I'll get pictures of them all to see how they look after putting more miles on the engine.
I might buy a new vacuum gauge too, I used a Snap-On one with this engine a while back and the needle didn't flutter like my current one does, so I can't really rely on it for detailed info.
I have another 350 sitting around, I'll take the covers from it and cut them up; get a video of the rockers and pushrods. I adjusted the rockers twice, using two different methods, and didn't notice any differences. (First with the "tighten to zero lash, then another 1/2 turn in", then I was suggested to "tighten until the pushrod can't be turned by hand, then back off 1/2 turn or so".) Haven't done it on a running engine before, but the method has been explained to me.
I tried it with the timing at around 8 degrees, engine wasn't running well and I couldn't get vacuum above 14in/hg. Made the same sound. I can try less if you think it could be that, but I don't think the engine will run with too much less.
'70 Torino Cobra is an absolutely wicked car. I hope you get it sorted for your friend.
Being a hemi also has nothing to do with a compression test.
This is what a compression tester looks like. Thread that bad boy into a spark plug hole and test away.
A hemi just has hemispherical combustion chambers. This doesn't affect spark plugs in any appreciable way. It does limit your valving options but that doesn't affect your ability to test compression at all.
Here is a video of someone doing a compression test on a hemi. The engine is out of the car but this could be done in the car with no troubles at all.
Dont get a compression tester get a leakdown tester such as OTC 5605 Deluxe Compression Tester Kit with Carrying Case for Gasoline Engines
A fuel injector tester with a fuel pressure gauge could tell you most of what you need to know. Pressurize system and attach gauge make sure pressure does not drop with key off. Re pressurize system and run each injector with test tool --does pressure drop when it opens? i know you are trying to avoid buying tools and such but either get the tools or pay someone you trust with them to diagnose. It will save you money in the long run either way. Throwing parts at it will make you broke. A fuel pressure tester, injector tester, a leak down gauge and some hand tools will get you close to a correct diagnosis. If you dont confirm the health of the motor before you start it will be frustrating and you could spend money on stuff that will not fix the problem
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-5630-Fuel-Pressure-Test/dp/B000R5IASC
If you cant find one.
Ill do a leak down test. Never done one before. What is your opinion on this product? https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5609-Cylinder-Leakage-Tester/dp/B0030EVL60
And yes, I could just scrap this engine and upgrade. I was excited to make this m20 into a mild stroker and want to salvage as much as possible. Also for the experience, since I'm fairly new to working on cars. But I agree that if I keep finding problems there is a point where I need to cut my losses and figure out a new plan if I ever want to get this car back on the road.
Buy a leak down tester. here’s one. $70
Thanks again for your advice. I researched a bit last night and picked this up, which looks like it will work with both of my vehicles.
I'm a reasonable car wrench but I've never siphoned such large amounts of fuel with the engine running. How careful do I need to be, assuming the standard precautions of not smoking, etc?
Figure I'll do it outside, keep the hose submerged in the fuel (less turbulence/vapor)...anything else? The hose in the kit only looks to be a few feet long...do you think I should replace with a longer one to get the can out of the engine bay?
This is at least made in Taiwan and not China. Best I could do on a budget.
Mityvac 5530 Professional Compression Tester Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002WSC0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5X9aAbTKDD4WJ
Yeah, it sounds like you have a fuel delivery issue. My initial thoughts are the simple things like chaning out the fuel filter and see if your fuel pressure changes if you remove the vaccum line from the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. If you don't have a fuel pressure tester, I run this one and it works. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5630-Fuel-Pressure-Test/dp/B000R5IASC/ref=lp_15707421_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1570831697&sr=1-6
As for the hose, if you can't get down under the truck while it's running to check if there's vacuum there just plug the hose with an appropriate sized bolt or something. Something with a shoulder so it won't get sucked into the hose if it actually pulls engine vacuum.
Good luck.
I'm at work right now and eBay is blocked here, so I can't view that link. It's something like this
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-5606-Compression-Tester-Kit/dp/B000R5CPAQ
It's just a PSI gauge that's threaded like a spark plug on the hose end. Most of them will come with a few different adapters, to fit different types of spark plugs. There isn't much else you can check on without starting to take the engine apart.
Ok so coolant is probably ok but better to change it, I am still learning how to change coolant so I will do it afterwards. But I used a tester and it's just 1C below the recommended level 265C so I guess coolant is still pretty good. Also didn't see sediment or crap in the coolant. Coolant tester is this one is it any accurate? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BOA9RY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Yeah brake fluid definitely going to change that, will be changing it to TYP 200 the blue one.
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If I track the car 3,4 times a year, how often to change out the TYP 200?
Make sure you have adequate coolant protection before you ship it. You don't want it to freeze up and break something. You can pick one of these coolant testers up at any parts store but if you haven't changed the coolant lately then you should do so.
Your smoke may be a heater core as others have suggested. For the little bit of running they need to do to ship it you should be fine but if you're worried you can easily bypass the heater core for now. Just loop the heater hose from one connector on the engine to the other or pickup a bypass kit at the parts store.
Autozone loans fuel pressure testers, but you need to make sure it has the attachment for the TBI. Your truck doesn't have a pressure port, so you unhook the fuel inlet line and put the fuel port adapter in-line. The pressure I believe should be 9-14 psi. The adapter you will need is the fitting shown in this picture:
http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7817-Throttle-Injection-Pressure/dp/B0006V2BK0
I had a problem similar to yours, and I could hear the fuel pump running so I ruled it out and did tons of other stuff. Once I realized I had no pressure at the TBI, I pulled the fuel tank and there is a rubber hose that connects the fuel pump to the fuel pickup tube that had split. So I was pumping fuel, but it was just dumping right back into the tank.