(Part 2) Best handsaws according to redditors
We found 395 Reddit comments discussing the best handsaws. We ranked the 148 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![Gerber Sliding Saw [22-41773],Black](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/31x78r3tJ1L.jpg)
I would strongly suggest against most of those tools, especially that hand plane.
I'm sure the stone is fine but I can't vouch for it. I'd rather recommend wet sandpaper w/ rough to fine grits. And some compound for stropping. Initially, you can strop it on anything -- even cardboard.
That square is dumb as f and useless as f. Unless you're doing framing or construction. Yes, I bought one when I started out. I still kept it as an example of a stupid purchase. Get this instead or something similar. It won't be as accurate as a starrett, obviously, but more than enough for 99% of woodworking.
Coping saw...eh, buy whatever you want. They're decent and better ones cost significantly more.
Chisels....those chisels suck. They're made out of butter instead of steel. Get these instead.
As for hand plane, buy a No4 pre WWII stanley from ebay or you'll have to fork over some serious cash to get a lie nielsen or a veritas. Don't ever touch the new stanley shit.
So...sandpaper (buy them from wherever),
Stropping: $12ish
narex chisels $38 ish
empire square $11 ish
japanese handsaw $27 ish
Coping saw: $6 ish
About $94. Leaves you with a couple of bucks for sandpaper--maybe. Get em from home depot/lowes to get started. Be sure to finish off all cutting edge with stropping on the compound.
If you decide to go the hand tool route, money and space are a lot less of a concern. Rather than throw out hypotheticals, I'll give you some examples of tools you can actually buy right now:
Panel saw. Yeah, 10 bucks. It's actually a nice saw too. The only issue is the teeth cannot be sharpened - but it's 10 bucks. Use this for breaking down big stock into smaller stock
Back Saw. Also 10 bucks. Same as above. Disposable but cheap and will last a long time (it's disposable because the teeth have been hardened). This is for precision cross cuts and cutting tenons.
Dovetail/fine joinery saw. 25 bucks plus a 3 dollar xx slim double taper saw file to make it not suck.
Now for some planes. These may seem kind of pricey for "broke" status, but these aren't POS-get-you-by planes. These are lifetime tools. To get something comparable new, you are looking at 150.00 to 300.00 a piece. You can get better deals by bidding on some planes, but these are all "buy it now"
Stanley #4. Needs some love but that's a good user for 30 bucks.
Stanley #5 for 42$
Stanley #7. 90 bucks.
Pick up a 4 dollar card scraper too.
Chisels
Narex $36. Use one of these and a block of wood to make yourself a router plane also.
Combination square 10 bucks.
A cordless drill of some sort and some bits (assuming you have one already)
70 bucks in 2x12's so you can make a knock down Nicholson style workbench which doesn't need vises. When you are done working, break it down and put it in the closet.
35 bucks for a pair of holdfasts from Gramercy
30 bucks worth of F style clamps from harbor freight will get you started there.
14 bucks to get sharp (not at all ideal but completely workable on a budget)
So for 410.00 or the price of a decent sander and miter saw, you can make literally anything in a small space with a small amount of localized dust. The trade off of course it time and labor.
Down the road you are definitely want to get some better saws, maybe some specialty planes, different chisels, some better measuring/marking equipment. But this will more than get you started.
Tenon saws aren't like planes or chisels; they're basically all serviceable. There are two tiers: the cheap ones with induction-hardened teeth, and the ones with regular teeth that can be sharpened.
You can tell the induction-hardened ones by the blackening along the teeth where they were hardened, and by the fact that they'll usually have plastic handles. They'll typically stay sharp longer, but when they dull you can't sharpen them; they're too hard and they'll just chip off or damage your file. They're aimed at homeowners more than fine woodworkers, but they're fine if you don't mind that they're disposable.
The saws with regular teeth will usually be more expensive, and they'll come in a range of prices from reasonable to less so, and the main difference will be whether the saw plate is tapered or flat (tapered is more expensive and "better", though for tenon saws it really doesn't matter), how polished the back is, and which wood is used in the handle (purely aesthetic). The quality of the steel will determine how quickly the teeth will dull and how often you'll have to sharpen them, but I haven't found price to be a reliable indicator of that. Even the crappiest steel will hold its sharpness for a long time, though.
If you want this to be the last tenon saw you buy, get one with regular teeth, but don't expect to find those at a DIY store these days (you might get lucky, though). Beyond that, what I'd look for is TPI and maybe tooth pattern (ripcut or crosscut, though it really doesn't matter that much for the kind of smallish work you'll be doing with a tenon saw) more than anything else.
A truly square, combination square. Don't cheap out, you will regret it like I did, and end up buying a better one (or trying to fix it). I use it more than any other tool. Remember, if you buy quality, you only cry once. Other layout tools I can personally recommend include Incra T-rule, ruler and protractor. If you use an incra, you will also use a .05mm lead mechanical pencil for marking. You also might need a tape measure. Don't do what I did and buy a 26' (unless you need it), because I rarely go over 12'. And consider the bend of the tape, it is really annoying. Also a framing square or T square. And a proper level if you don't have one. Now onto saws. The only saw I can truly recommend right now is this. The reviews don't lie, let me tell you. I have rip cut & crosscut with zero problems. I also own a lie-nielsen dovetail saw, but I haven't tested it yet, so i can't recommend it yet. I don't own any hand planes yet so I can't say much but from what I've seen Stanley has good vintage and Lie-Nielsen has good modern (new). If they are too expensive, look into a cabinet scraper and steel burnisher. On the topic of chisels, I can't say much either. I have a 1/2" and 3/4" stanley sweetheart 750 but they need to have the lacquer coat removed and be sharpened before I'll use em. (and i have no sharpening stones yet, I'll use the "scary sharp" method)
i'm here if you have any more questions, cheers
You should be able to get 1-1.5 inches of a drywall jab saw into the plastic plug. Once you cut through the plastic, perhaps twice in different areas, it should be easily taken apart and removed. If you see anything other than white plastic on your saw while cutting, stop.
You could also heat a butter knife on the stove, and cut through the plastic a few times, or once flat across the front and pull it apart.
Skip the Stanley and get an Olsen or an Eclipse. http://www.amazon.com/Eclipse-70-CP1R-Handle-Coping-Thickness/dp/B002NH0EC2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1454085156&sr=1-3-fkmr0&keywords=olson+coping+saw
For cutting large trunks I've found this saw is really good (And reasonably priced): http://www.amazon.com/Truper-30255-21-Inch-Handle-Release/dp/B0052X7XV4/
I own the exact same saw and it's wonderful at cutting through trees REALLY fast... Think it is called the Bahco
Depends what you mean by affordable. A lot of people are saying Veritas, but $75 is more doable for some people than others. My first dovetail saw was a $16 Japanese panel saw and it gets the job done. Sharp teeth, rigid back, thin kerf.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G9ZEEQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Looked through the replies and was surprised to see a mitre box and saw wasn't suggested. The one I linked is one of the cheapest on Amazon. There are more expensive / nicer ones, of course -- just depends on what you wish to spend. Much better, faster, and easier than using hand planers, drills and hatchets, routers, etc...
I have a SOG FastHawk, similar to that, which works quite well.
You might also consider a small folding/sliding saw. I use a [Gerber] (http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Blades-22-41773-Sliding-Saw/dp/B0013481TE), which is very light and a lot faster than using the hawk for cutting branches for s shelter.
You have local trails. You should help maintain them if you want to ride them. The fact that they're overgrown means that hardly anyone else does. You know what this means? You can pretty much do whatever you want and the hard part (cutting the actual trails) is already done! All you have to do is clear some shit out of your way.
I've compiled this list for you and I've named it, "Rogue Trail Maintenance Starter Kit!"
Get this shit and go hit your local trails. The sooner you get started, the sooner you can ride them!
E Tool Trench out the low spots and move some earth around.
Folding Saw Vines and small branches.
Bow Saw For the big shit.
Camo Backpack Gotta carry this shit somehow.
Bug Spray Trust me, you'll need this.
Hydration Because beer.
This is pretty cheap and will do the job super easy
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To use a hand planer, you need it to be really sharp (which that stanley one wont be) and you'd probably need a shooting board to aid you.
I would use a crosscut hand saw. A Japanese Ryoba would do pretty well, and it's not a splurge price-wise.
A straight cut isn't too hard to do free hand, but if you'd like to be precise, you can clamp a block (2x4, 4x4 cutoff) to your piece on the cut line and use the block as a guide to keep your saw straight. You could also buy a mitre box or a box and saw combo
Yes I know, that's the one thing this thing offers lol, it's the only real tangible benefit you've been able to find to explain why it's 10x as much as an echo dot.
BTW these two tools will give you that same "hidden wires" benefit for a whole lot less money:
https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Measuring-Klein-Tools-56005/dp/B0026TBOU8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1538366334&sr=8-5&keywords=fishtape&dpID=51JR4coh8YL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-206-Jab-Wood-Handle/dp/B00002X21P/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1538366405&sr=8-6&keywords=drywall+saw&dpID=21Fk1DkuDxL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
And then here are the actual mounts themselves: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Built-Google-Home-Mount/dp/B078Z214QX
EDIT Whoops that's the home mini, I'm sure there's an echo dot equivalent though. Frankly if you don't already have these assistants in your home, I would highly recommend the google version, it's a whole lot more useful and intelligent than alexa.
For 100 bucks and you are after bushcrafting... I would recommend this.
Wetterlings Hatchet - 70
Mora 1 - 13
Gerber slide saw - 10
Here you go...
https://www.amazon.com/GreatNeck-BSB14-Inch-Miter-Box/dp/B00004Z2R8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=miter+box+with+saw&qid=1573867165&sprefix=miterbo&sr=8-3 this is what you need, you can get one at most hardware stores as well
This saw is probably the tool I use most. It's not for fine joinery, but I do a lot of breaking down boards, notches, etc with it. And it's great for PVC pipe too. It's an inexpensive way to "get familiar" with japanese saws.
My favorite tool is my Grizzly G0555 bandsaw. Had that before my table saw and have built many rocking horses with it.
I bought this and was able to tune my grizzly saw nicely.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQGLB1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_61KFAbJ9QVEB1
ok, call me out about the price...
/u/asilva54 is right, tools are not a use-once-and-toss kind of thing.
[drywall saw] (https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-206-Jab-Wood-Handle/dp/B00002X21P/ref=sr_1_11?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1523040458&sr=1-11&keywords=drywall+saw) - $6.71 US shipped.
wall plates - $9.95 with free prime shipping.
I said it was 'like' $10. In parts it is $10, with ~$7 for a tool. You can likely do it cheaper from a local hardware store - these were Amazon inflated prices...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AQGLB1K?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
It's not the best out there but it's pretty solid.
Oh, did not know that. Looks like a tight area to work in with a bolt extractor like this: https://www.walmart.com/c/kp/bolt-extractors
Or, if there's room enough to work, I'd try a metal hacksaw blade to create a groove for a flat-head socket bit, or locking vice grips to unscrew the bolt stubs. They 'should' turn relatively easily.
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-22-0012-Operated-Tool-Less-Included/dp/B003VY8WA2/ref=pd_cp_60_3?pd_rd_w=X8DFN&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=Z8MD51F382SSVSKN8MDA&pd_rd_r=0708639c-9c14-11e9-80a3-a18782f7606f&pd_rd_wg=oSuRD&pd_rd_i=B003VY8WA2&psc=1&refRID=Z8MD51F382SSVSKN8MDA
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-mini-hacksaw-65341.html
One last suggestion is to drill out the bolts and install "heli-coils". Wrap tape on drill bit at around 1 3/4" from end of bit so you wont drill to deeply. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFYa6sjhh_E
Japanese pull saw. Super useful for flush cuts or precision hand cuts, and cheap enough too. Save it for when you need to pad your Amazon order to get up to $35.
I'm not one to talk someone out of power tools, but something to consider maybe in addition to whatever you decide to go for is one of these.
So far my income to frequency of wood working ratio has not been such that I can justify the miter saw I want, and circular saws kinda scare me, so the only powered cutting implement I have is a jig saw which sucks ass on anything thicker than an inch or not bone dry. My Japanese saw will go through just about anything though, treated 2x8's, 4x4's, no problem. They look all delicate, but the thinner blade doesn't bind like a traditional hand saw, and cutting on the pull is easier on your arm. It's pretty much the only saw I use anymore for raised beds or anything else, and it's nice to be able to cut right in the garden without running an extension cord.
cut the jamb so you can slide under it. Harbor freight has a cheap power one but I used manual for years
https://www.amazon.com/Tools-ProTouch-Dovetail-10-inch-2014450/dp/B000B3AR0Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469142030&sr=8-1&keywords=undercut+saw+for+door+jam
115 lbs is not very much, schedule 40 PVC would definitely handle that much weight, especially in such short lengths. 1" weighs .3 lbs/ft so you can add up the length and then add some % for fittings, maybe 50%? the first design has caster wheels on the one end which seems like a good idea, that way you can just roll the whole thing instead of having to pick it up.
home depot might cut the pipe for you, but you can invest $20 in a handsaw that will do a nice job cutting as well. if you are a perfectionist you can spend another $10 on a miter box to make perfectly straight cuts.
Eclipse coping saw from amazon.
I second the rec to buy pegas blades. They sell them at woodcraft if you have one of those local. I bought mine online (not amazon) but can't remember where. I wanna saw I paid like $8 for a dozen and I bought a few packs.
If I win the lottery I'd buy the Blue Spruce Saw though. If knew concepts scares you off don't look at BS though.
For the saw set like this should do just fine. Avoid this type, they're completely awful. Probably worst tool I bought so far.
Jamb saw.
Worked quick but semi rough. I kissed it with a belt sander after.
For sanding, I highly recommend you drop
$7$5.47 on a sanding block. For doing much sanding at all, your hands will be sore and the tips of your fingers numb for a couple of days otherwise. Or, if you've got a staple gun, staple the sandpaper to a chunk of wood. The commercial blocks are nice, though, as they're a little more hand-friendly in shape.For holes, pick up a cheap coping saw. Makes cutting holes not too bad. This could be used for both the open hole for the cat to get through and for helping to mount the PVC. With an appropriately-sized hole, where the pipe will friction-fit it, a bit of epoxy will keep it strong enough that the board will break before the joint does. Just rough up the end of the pipe that goes in the hole so the epoxy has something to grab.
For mounting, L-brackets and screws will be fine, but make sure you drive the screws into the studs. I wouldn't take a chance using molly bolts or expanding anchors. If it fell, your cat would probably leap to safety just fine, but either you're not getting your security deposit back or you're learning to drywall.
Spear & Jackson 9550B 12-inch Traditional Brass Back Tenon Saw
Spear & Jackson Professional 10 inch Tenon Saw 5410Y
Weston Butcher Saw with 22 Inch Stainless Steel Blade (47-2201) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000T3OV1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zr6TCbKK0FPP0
I ordered this one!
http://www.amazon.com/Weston-Butcher-Stainless-Steel-Blade/dp/B000T3OV1C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368021617&sr=8-1&keywords=bone+saw
Not terribly expensive, 30.00. And you just buy replacement blades before they get dull/break.
Assuming your college budget is like mine was, look at this saw. It's good enough for what you're doing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001V9KOEG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484571790&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dovetail+saw&dpPl=1&dpID=3128cA6UY9L&ref=plSrch
As far as chisels go, there's cheap options around. A couple of months ago, everyone was going nuts for a $7 set from Aldi. (Just google "Aldi chisels" there's a ton of info on making these flat, sharp, and work) My recommendation for those is to find a cheap set that has a grip you're happy with, and spend the money on a sharpening system. Even a piece of marble tile and sandpaper would work.
Lastly, good luck. I've been working at the National Skills USA here in the states for the last few years. It's a great program.
The 420 Has a blade length of about 16 1/2 inches in length. The general recommendation for most saws is that you can most effectively cut through logs that have a diameter equal to or less than 2/3 of the length of the blade.
You might want to do some research on whether a curved blade will be the most efficient for your purposes.
Also you should seriously consider that if you’re only going to be bucking logs and you’re not going to require a folding saw, you might be best served by acquiring a proper bucking/crosscut saw with a high-quality blade.
Examples:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crosscut_saw
https://www.garrettwade.com/western-log-saw.html?SCID=W4011000&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvcet8cTG5AIVhp-fCh0ywwJnEAQYAiABEgKkV_D_BwE
Edit:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bucksaw.
https://www.lehmans.com/product/hickory-bucksaw
https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-10-30-23-30-Inch-Ergo-Green/dp/B0001IX7TW/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=bucksaw&qid=1568128949&s=gateway&sr=8-6
Idk, I wouldn't say that. I still think you can get a good deal, if you look around.
The chisels I bought off of Harbor Freight actually seem pretty good after I spent an entire afternoon tuning and sharpening them. They were complete shit out of the box though. Forget a flat back, the edge wasn't even square.
These vintage planes were relatively cheap too.
I am also considering buying this saw, as I heard it was quite good after you tune it up.
Also, I sent that piece of junk gauge back, so I didn't really lose anything.
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I was looking at the crowns on amazon.
What do you think about this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Silverline-868503-Mortice-Gauge-230mm/dp/B000LFTQ72/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1485138295&sr=8-9&keywords=Marking+gauge
EDIT : Nvm, according to UK reviews, it's crap. Ohh wow, the UK has way better choices than we do in the states...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-868503-Mortice-Gauge-230/dp/B000LFTQ72/ref=sr_1_4?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1485139275&sr=1-4&keywords=Mortice+gauge
I bought this one. Everyone borrows it from me. Still on the original blade after 100+ cuts.
LENOX Tools Folding Jab and Utility Saw (20997TFHS618636) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176INGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JkFrDbXCJ63R0
For this kind of thing, if you don't have access to or can't afford power tools, I like a hand scroll or coping saw such as this one ($10 free shipping): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002X222/ because you have a great deal of control, the cuts are thin (less wasted material) and the tool is light weight.
You can also use a standard hack saw ($8 Prime): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B5A0T5K/
For manual sawing, I also recommend using a basic miter box. This one includes a clamp too, and can be screwed into something to keep it from moving on ya ($10.75 Prime): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009OYGB/
If you don't have a sander or a dremel for the edge smoothing, you can just use sandpaper by hand, but with all things manual, to make and finish 62 pieces of anything will just take longer.
Do let me know if you make a set for yourself! I'd love to check it out. :)
Edit: fixed a link and added miter box
Looks like someone tried to insert something into the seatpost and bent the seat tube in the process. That's not so great..
Hacksaw holder down the tube.
https://www.amazon.com/ULKEME-Light-Close-Quarter-Hacksaw/dp/B07CYTTGXF/
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-22-0012-Operated-Tool-Less-Included/dp/B003VY8WA2
For future reference, if you do this first then a pipe wrench should cause the tube to curl in on itself if it does deform, releasing some pressure. In some situations you'll have THICK aluminum seatposts that are just a pain to remove and will need multiple hacksaw cuts. Patience and you will free it. Don't jam screwdrivers down there between the two because the force will go outward more than inward.
Lots of good creative ideas here. Thanks all!
I think I’m going to get a small hacksaw. Something like this:
Milwaukee 48-22-0012 Compact Hand Operated Hack Saw w/ Tool-Less Blade Change (10 Inch Blade Included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VY8WA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T2FEDb8NG6S1E
I'm not sure, but I can't imagine it would be hard to find an axe on a supply run. Surely there was one or two around Woodbury. Even if they can't find an axe, for a tree no more than 4-6" around they could use one of these, or one of these.
What about a rockler
Putting together a beginner hand tools set. If I only want one joinery saw and one panel saw in my toolbox for everything, would this be an okay joinery saw? The second picture shows how the handle is offset to the side. https://www.amazon.com/Tools-ProTouch-Dovetail-10-inch-2014450/dp/B000B3AR0Y
If you only need to cut a handful of pieces then the box is a good idea. If it's a ton, then you will appreciate the miter saw.
https://www.amazon.com/GreatNeck-BSB14-Inch-Miter-Box/dp/B00004Z2R8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541970667&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=miter+saw+box&dpPl=1&dpID=4134ZX53JYL&ref=plSrch
I have the lenox version. https://www.amazon.com/LENOX-Tools-Folding-Utility-20997TFHS618636/dp/B00176INGY
Positively LOVE it.
Another answer that you didn't ask for, but a large bow saw is in a much different category than any of the folding saws I have used. Much lighter than a chainsaw and blades are cheap. The longer blade really cuts a lot more wood per stroke than a small handsaw. YMMV but for anything 1.5"+ I can cut through wood faster with a saw than an ax.
http://www.amazon.com/Bahco-10-30-23-30-Inch-Ergo-Green/dp/B0001IX7TW
There will be people that disagree, because to some extent it is about preference, and it also depends on what, exactly you do. Having said that, I'll give you a run down of stuff I either had when I started, or use frequently, or serves multiple purposes, etc.
Other than that, it really depends on what you want to do. I left out power tools except for a drill because when I started I couldn't even afford that and used my dad's. I never like when people give starter lists that include table saws and stuff, because if I had seen that on a woodworking starter list I would have been turned away. You can start with cheap stuff and make good pieces, it just takes a little longer and a lot more elbow grease.
Try this: http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2312-12-Inch-Carpentry/dp/B00004TBPZ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421608076&sr=8-2&keywords=pull+saw.
I have dozen specialized saws, but this is the first one I reach for.
http://www.amazon.com/Weston-Butcher-Stainless-Steel-Blade/dp/B000T3OV1C/