(Part 2) Best hobby tool sets according to redditors

Or you learn formatting and put 6 pages on each side of the paper and use one of these to read the small font and diagrams.

I had every formula from the entire semester plus an example problem hand written and then shrunk and pasted in tiny format sophomore year of college for calc 1.

Before you add decals, you should spray it down with a gloss coating, or paint it on.

Pledge multisurface floor care will work if you don't want to spray.

You should test on a separate surface of similarly painted material before you use either a spray gloss or Pledge.

Otherwise, the decals will have a visible plastic film around them (that's the outer contours of the decal), basically, that will be somewhat unsightly.

See: https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-Surface-Cleaner-27-Ounce-Packaging/dp/B0034792NW (DO NOT PAY THAT PRICE. It's available in better stocked hardware stores or supermarkets, or walmart or target. Also, that's for six bottles, not one. Actually, the one bottle price might be ok. The amount you're going to need is miniscule. But you can coat that floor with it after, so maybe it's not waste.)

One possible alternative (but which I've never used): https://www.amazon.com/4638-Gloss-Clear-Acrylic-FM02017/dp/B004AF9Q74/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1535902705&sr=1-1&keywords=acrylic+gloss+clear+testors&dpID=412O0tmsh8L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch (I use the flat version, which works very well and can be brushed on, which it appears you are doing. The flat goes on after the decals go on, on the gloss coated tank.).

After you've put the decals on, brush on a flat coating. Since you seem to be using brush paint, I'd recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Bottle-Testors-Testor-Corp/dp/B004I0EVK8.

Good luck. Others can chime in if they have recommendations. Thanks.

This is solid tabletop quality paintjobs, the sort of army I most enjoy playing against. If you do the rest of the army to this quality, you'll be fine. Your photography sucks, but it's good enough that I can see you've got solid brush control, have done washes and highlights, have picked out sufficient detail, just solid work all around.

The only issue I have is the lack of basing. For miniatures like these, I'd really recommend doing a simple basing scheme like a ballast mix painted in earth tones. It's very plain, generic but doesn't distract and gives a miniature a finished look, and is very cheap for doing large armies. Here's an example.

You'll need:

• Fine ballast
  
• Medium ballast
  
• Coarse ballast.
  
• PVA Glue (i.e Elmer's white glue)
  
  Here's how you do it:
  
  
  

1. Mix equal parts of all three ballasts in a small container so that you have a wide dispersion of different sized grains. About one teaspoon of each type should be plenty for a unit of 10 troops. I usually use a plastic blister from a miniature, roughly 1.5" wide x 2" long x .5" deep, but you can also cut a plastic cup or aluminum can down to 3/4" high and that also works great. You don't want to use a really big container or all the fine ballast will quickly settle to the bottom and you want to be able to easily stir it back up to a mixed consistency.
   
   
2. After you've fixed the model to the base but before you prime it, use a cheap brush to paint the surface of the base with white glue.
   
   
3. Dip the miniature into the container so it's submerged in the ballast mix up to it's ankles. You can just kind of sweep the mini through the mix then shake it a little, and you'll end up with a nice mix of ballast glued to the surface. Wash out the brush throughly when you're done, but not in your water pot. Wash it under a tap.
   
   
4. Let the glue dry, then make a mix of 1 part glue to 1 part water, so a very thinned glue and, using the same brush, go over all the ballast again. This will help seal it to the base.
   
   
5. Prime the mini and paint it as usual.
   
   
6. To paint the base is very simple. You really only need a dark brown and a light brown. Paint all of the ballast with the dark brown, then lightly drybrush it with the lighter brown. If you want to be a little fancier, pick up a set of the Reaper Soil Colors Triad, and paint the entire base Muddy Soil, then heavily drybrush with Basic Dirt, then lightly drybrush with Brown Sand.
   
   
7. Paint the sides of the base with any basic Black.
   
   You can add some Army Painter Tufts or the occasional piece of talus for larger bases to give them some variety.
   
   It will really improve the model, and is much less work than trying to go back and base the model after you've painted it.

Citadel plastic glue melts the plastic so only a hacksaw can help. Best case ya get this Tamiya saw to remove it.

Im pretty sure it's this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Findfly-Gundam-Modeler-Building-Assemble/dp/B071HQPDMV/ref=pd_sbs_21_10?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B071HQPDMV&pd_rd_r=85C9377W88DQS1PA13KT&pd_rd_w=rLQFF&pd_rd_wg=RrCLy&psc=1&refRID=85C9377W88DQS1PA13KT

Hi this is what I started out with. https://www.amazon.com/Swpeet-Professional-Building-Beginner-Container/dp/B07BHCDR15/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=gundam+hobby+kit&qid=1564626709&s=gateway&sprefix=gundam+ho&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
It will help get rid of all the extra bits. I also agee with starting with HG kits they are a lot more basic so you can learn what is best. Panel lining is always good and there are a few videos on youtube to help with learning with gundam markers.

The fact that battery had open contacts worries me. It's a basic JST-XH so you can use a DC-4S from Hobbyking.

https://www.amazon.com/HobbyKing-DC-4S-Balance-Charger-Checker/dp/B00URCKS58/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=DC-4S&qid=1558538780&s=gateway&sr=8-2

• I wasn't a fan of any of the Gundam anime when I started--but after a while I got curious about the stories behind some of the mobile suits I'd built and I had a blast watching tons of Gundam stuff after starting this hobby!
  
  
• I bought my first Gunpla totally on a whim, so I know how that feeling of anticipation goes!
  
  
• Amazon is a perfectly adequate way to get your first few Gunpla. Don't stress about other sources for now.
  
  
• I started with a kit like this which gave me everything I needed for my first few kits. There are so many other better tools out there, but it's better to just start it off simple like this.
  
  
• The above starter kit is just shy of $20 and a good beginner's Gunpla kit can run anywhere from $10-20.
  
  What kit is best to get started? There are tons of options! Here are some of my personal favorites:
  
  
• HG RX-78-2 Revive (this is a classic!)
  
  
• HG Gundam Mk-II Revive (both color variants are the same, pick the color you like better!)
  
  
• HG Try Burning Gundam (this one is very flashy and fun to pose!)
  
  
• HG Full Armor 7th Gundam (I personally love the design of this one and I can always seem to find it for a good price.)

How do you think this set compares to the Tamiya one?

I noticed in the pics of that set that it included a Xuron cutter. Would I get a better cutter with this particular Xuron cutter than the generic one included in the set?

I also have this for a pen knife and this for a file set picked out so I would have 3 main tools (cutter, pen knife, and a file set) for $22.14 total all with 2-day Prime shipping available (so I won't have to stare at an unopened box of Freedom 2.0 for a month waiting for deliveries from Japan).

Would I be missing something crucial if I went with just 3 individual tools above and are there better options for the money (that I won't have to wait a month for)? Any input on all this would be greatly appreciated.

There's a $10 modeling kit on amazon that includes most everything you need starting out. I've been using it since I started out its good for the price. You might want to get the knife separately though the one i got was so dull it could barely cut butter. Here's the link:

https://www.amazon.com/Esoca-Modeler-Professional-Assemble-Building/dp/B07CKFLWXH?th=1&psc=1

Back from the dead, again. Apologies for the wait. I just meant things that people, who have been in the hobby for years, recommend (Wyloch, Miniature Maniac, etc)

Here's Wyloch's https://www.amazon.com/shop/wylochscraftingvids

Otherwise, compared to GW's prices that would run you hundreds in comparison, here is literally everything you could ever need for about $30
https://www.amazon.com/Rustark-36Pcs-Modeler-Building-Gundam/dp/B074SJYRK7/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=hobby+set&qid=1556998767&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Thank you for the reply. You have a good point about getting a model I don't care and while I don't think there would be any that I would really dislike (please say there is no Nether Gundam model....) it is still a chance and I might as well start with something from a series I have seen. What I am thinking now is getting this toolkit and this SD Exia to start with and if I feel comfortable I can pick up a HG (probably Kyrios). The tool kit looks like it has a black panel liner, is it recommended to also pick up a gray?

How much are you looking to spend? Buying overseas is always an option, but you're usually waiting for your stuff and shipping can be a little pricey. (Also some restrictions like can't send blades or liquids.) In my personal opinion on the two sets is that the cheaper one gives you more for less, but probably less quality. Also found a slightly cheaper set here. This one is the same price and has more stuff. Here I will just link the store on amazon.

BXQINLENX Professional 33 PCS Gundam Model Tools Kit Modeler Basic Tools Craft Set Hobby Building Tools Kit for Gundam Car Model Building Repairing and Fixing(J) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071CZ7V4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_TA92CbR9F9NXA

I bought this which has many of the same parts in your deal. And tbh I only use 5 things from it. the curved tweezers, the knife, the nippers, the semi circle filer, and the cutting pad. And all of them work great. So I would recommend it.

Oh cool! The kit I have came with tweezers, glue, and a paintbrush. It recommends you use a ruler (with mm), scissors, utility knife (X-acto knife), needle-nose pliers, pencil, binder clip, mini screwdriver, and needle. I also have a cutting mat and wirecutter, which makes things much easier.

I was going to buy a cheap set of tools online, but then I realized we had everything at home (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRXVDPS/?coliid=I2EROKQ6POI9PC&colid=BZH6QNB85O6D&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it)

If I’m seeing this right, you could use a heim joint like they use on rc cars / trucks for linkages.
Something like this but they are available in a lot of sizes.
Hobbypower Aluminum M3 Link Rod End Ball Joint CW CCW for 1/10 RC Car Crawler Buggy Silver (Pack of 20pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CHSC9NI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N34kDbVPJVX7B

One with a desoldering pump

And one with pliers, wire cutters and screwdrivers

I have the same soldering iron in both of these and it works great! Plus it's cheap!

Here is the one I have that works pretty good.

Duratrax 19-in-1 Tool Set with Pouch for Traxxas Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CFVVWLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_w76VCbNZ7BYET

You can probably get this tool a lot cheaper, but a PE bender would do the trick I would think. This is r/modelmakers after all, and realistically this is a tool you could use for just about any kit you have.

https://www.amazon.com/Photo-Etch-Bending-Tool-Workstation/dp/B0085MSPQG