(Part 2) Best lab meters according to redditors

Amazon has them:

https://www.amazon.com/OWON-Technologies-SDS1102-Digital-Oscilloscope/dp/B0781CXRP5/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=owen+sds1102+oscilloscope&qid=1569169671&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr1

i got a siglent on Amazon for around 450 CAD, looks like its only 350 CAD now, not sure if that qualifies as 'cheap'.

https://www.amazon.ca/Siglent-Technologies-SDS1052DL-Digital-Oscilloscope/dp/B01J16NV54/ref=sr_1_5?crid=13EQT2UQO78N9&keywords=siglent+oscilloscope&qid=1571606292&sprefix=siglent+oscill%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-5

Well those roots look healthy to me. Just try the flushing. Here is a TDS I use for $16. Even if you do not go for the calibration solution gotta have it if you want to grow the dro.

I went with the 2D72 for the 70MH and signal generator but the whole line is appealing.

Hantek2000 Series

Hantek 2D72 - $189 Amazon

Hantek 2D72 - $162.70 AliExpress

I have four (six?) oscilloscopes and there's other stuff not shown in that pic. You really want an oscilloscope and I feel blind without one.

If you need a cheap one I found that a USB oscilloscope is adequate for lower speed work.

https://www.amazon.com/Hantek-HT6022BE20Mhz-Digital-Oscilloscope-Bandwidth/dp/B009H4AYII/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+oscilloscope+hantek&qid=1567189174&s=gateway&sr=8-4

The only issue I had with this oscilloscope is that I had to force loading of an unsigned driver.

I would not recommend a cheap scope meter (they suck) and would not get a cheap handheld one like this as a primary scope (still kind of sucks but more useful):

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Portable-Handheld-Digital-Oscilloscope/dp/B00HEZKY28/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1567189465&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A4343061011&s=industrial&sr=1-1

Depending on the PH of your water, you might only need a little bit of PH Down Solution (an acid) and some sort of nutrient solution. The nutrient solution that worked best for me when I was doing lettuce was the DynaGro Grow. One step, no mixing A B and C.

Amazon Link

I bought a gallon of PH Down from my local hydro shop, with their logo and everything, it was like 10 bucks for a gallon. I still have 3/4 left after almost 2 years. You could just use this one in case you really need to. I found out that DynaGro lowers the PH at an Ideal level.

You should have a PH probe and a TDS probe. They make some cheap ones like these two. You might need to calibrate them often, so you need this and this

I use This to measure my nutrients. You can get the same one at walmart for 10 bucks. But you have to go to walmart, and that to me is not worth the savings.

Try to find the "Recipe" you need for your reservoir. I calculate my towers have about 20 gallons of water up to the hole where the wire from the pump comes out of. Once you have everything measured write it down somewhere and take notes. I do a full reservoir change at the end of every crop. Lettuce wont grow again once you harvest it. Make sure you clean your tower really well to avoid salt buildup.

I get my seeds from http://www.johnnyseeds.com/

I've had great success with [this one] (http://www.johnnyseeds.com/vegetables/lettuce/romaine-lettuce-cos/sparx-lettuce-seed-3156.html) and This one

You can also use your own Rockwool and make sure you get one of These.

I have something very similar to this but I can't find the exact one. You start your seedlings with that.

Let me know if you wanna go deeper down the rabbit hole. Sorry for the wall of text. And also, sorry about your wallet.

Good luck!

> All oxygen sensors I've worked with have required a 2 point calibration to be accurate.

Have you worked with the electrochemical cell type of sensors? My understanding was that it was a chemical reaction that required oxygen, so 0 oxygen would be represented by no output. Don't take this as questioning what you said, I'm more trying to understand this myself and confirm my understanding.

The thing that's throwing me is that something like this device for example

Calibration seems to be based on just dialing it in to expected atmospheric oxygen levels, and that is using this exact same sensor.

Perhaps the two point calibration is required only when you need a greater accuracy?

nScope on Amazon is pretty cheap (94$). I haven't had one myself, but if I hadn't bought my Rigol scope (400$) already, this is what I'd go for. https://www.amazon.com/nLabs-nScope/dp/B01KULLWB4/

Honestly - some of the new gear is so inexpensive, used is hardly worth looking at used. With a Siglent for abut $300

Have you consodered theAnalong Discovery Kit 2 - they used to offer student pricing, saving like $100... a LOT of capability for the money - when I graduated the equippment needed to do this, did not relly exist(Digital features), but would have been over $10,000 in functions.

If you can afford it and electronics is a long term hobby, bump up to the newer model 5MHz version.... it will last you longer and be more useful...... I have a 2 channel 10MHz version for tinkering if i don't need the fancy full size model

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HEZKY28/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One of those cheap oscilloscopes would be a great project! I use mine all the time. It’s not a fantastic scope, but it works, particularly for audio frequency things. It starts to get pretty imprecise in the megahertz, but it costs $23, so.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SL8KQPZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_GgrCDb6SEB781

I was feeling the same, I picked up the basic USB picoscope that uses your PC as the output. Also has a built in signal generator. https://www.amazon.com/Pico-PicoScope-2204A/dp/B00GZMRZ3M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=picoscope&qid=1564960444&s=gateway&sprefix=picosc&sr=8-3

I can't recommend due to lack of experience, but your thought process sounds a lot like mine. I, too, am cheap frugal but recognize the utility of decent-quality tools. I, too, had started out intending to get the Nano, upped that to the Rigol based on forum feedback, and now intend to splash out an extra 50 for the Owon 100MHz DSO, based on feedback from here and /r/ECE.

Good luck, whatever you decide.

Ed: Came back to add that the Rigol has a dated, low-res screen. It's overdue for a rev/refresh. This was part of my reasoning--it is usually a false economy for me to get a lower quality tool, because I end up getting the better one later. Of, course, later you'll want a signal generator...and a protocol analyzer... So, the extra 50 might come in handy. :)

It should have already been calibrated but Amazon sells calibration solution here The TDS of the solution is 1000ppm, you can use it to make sure your pen is accurate from time to time. I would recommend testing it at least once so you’re positive that it is accurate before you start using it.

Maybe an Espotek Labrador:

https://espotek.com/labrador/product/espotek-labrador-board/

https://www.amazon.com/EspoTek-Labrador-Easy-Use-All/dp/B07CVB7ZJG

Otherwise you can probably find a DSO138 (or similar) locally if you look enough.

Will this oscilloscope work fine? If not which one do you use that’s $50?

It's a bottled water quality filter purity monitor. Measures Total Dissolved Solids.

https://www.amazon.com/TDS-Meter-Digital-Water-Tester/dp/B075TZZTXR

https://www.amazon.com/DSO-Shell-Oscilloscope-Enclosure-ESD-Safe/dp/B06Y1T6WZ9/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dso+shell&qid=1556933225&s=gateway&sr=8-3

JyeTech states this is from a authorized dealer.

I bought the older version of this when I started with diy synth and I've been really happy with it. 2 channels is all you need. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LYAXCCW/ref=asc_df_B01LYAXCCW58580977/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22146&creativeASIN=B01LYAXCCW&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310805577543&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13157039443331092715&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045907&hvtargid=pla-442794609510

Technically, a higher RMS subwoofer can theoretically handle a clipped signal better than a lower RMS woofer from a lower RMS amplifier.

However, clipping sounds like shit. Buy a bigger amp if your electrical is up to snuff.

You can use a DMM to set your gains, or if you have a little money to spend buy this. Totally worth the money if you're into electrical engineering or you just want your best sound.

The red thing in the video is an oscilloscope, it shows voltages over time on the graph. It's super useful for synth hobbyist, you can use it to view waveforms on synths or see what the voltage output is on patch stuff. Plus it looks cool.

Here is a link to the one I bought and put together
-> https://www.amazon.com/Oscilloscope-Handheld-Pocket-size-Electronic-Learning/dp/B01LWK49W3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549982764&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=dso138&psc=1

You can get an OK Tektronix portable for about $400. It's not fancy, no color, but it works and gets the job done for most people who are looking for a cheap scope such as this device. People who need the better scope are not going to consider a bluetooth adapter for their phone.

Color one on Amazon for $550

Generic Brand for $279

I had the black and white version of the color Tektronix and spent $399, but it was also 100MHz not 50. But I don't see it on Amazon, and this was 6 years ago.

Other options

USB Scope, 40MHz, with cheap probes - $99

Cheap generic 72MHz scope - $170

Generic Handheld, 25MHz - $225

Cheapest generic Standalone 25MHz - $249

The point is, for a 12MHz scope, and 2 probes, and uses your tablet / phone, $179 doesn't buy you much. There are other options out there that would be a better choice.

I thought you didn't want a bench scope? Also, I wouldn't waste my money on it. There is a siglent at the same price point that is better.

https://www.amazon.com/Hantek-Handheld-Oscilloscope-Frequency-generator/dp/B01F12S33M

I don't think the strain gauges cost much, maybe $30 - $40. It's the stuff you need to get a reading from them that costs money. You need a Wheatstone bridge circuit and either a dedicated strain gauge reader or an oscilloscope with at least 10 MHz frequency response.

I paid $450 for mine. Got it off Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/SDS7102-Digital-Oscilloscope-2-channel-interface/dp/B006G54K3G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1347080824&sr=8-2&keywords=owon+oscilloscope

I've seen it about $10-20 cheaper at other places, but was wary of their return policies if it didn't work, or wasn't what I expected so I opted to pay 20 bucks more for something fulfilled by Amazon and subject to their awesome return policies.

Oh yes, because third shift factory work isn't a common, widespread phenomenon that these frameworks bear every goddamn hallmark of. No, I'm not drawing on years of research on manufacturing including primary sources in the form of family members that contract with factories and have to deal with this. No, I'm clearly just an idiot. I mean, you have Google, a Facebook group, and gut feelings! Obviously you're better versed in this than I am.

EDIT: Oh neat. More downvotes from people with no idea what they're talking about. What a surprise. So, apparently I need to give more evidence. Okeydoke! Check this shit out! The A8 is a generic framework. Want proof? Here's some. Here's some more. Let's keep going, though. Plenty more where that came from. Notice how all of these printers look all but identical when you look at the frame, despite being from different brands and advertised as different machines? That's because the files for the laser cutter, and the .hex for the firmware, are the shared components. These are traded around, and "ANET" is a name built into the file, not the name of the manufacturer. A set of images for packaging around the box on the board and screen are traded around with it. Some choose to use parts of that name, some choose to discard it. This is an incredibly common scenario in China. You can brigade my posts all you want, but all you're showing is that you'd prefer to plug your fingers into your ears than listen to anyone other than your own echo chambers of positivity.

If you like working with your printer, good for you. I'm glad you enjoy it, and it's great you're a part of this hobby. However, the fact that you enjoy your machine doesn't in any way shape or form change the fact that your machine is just part of a long history of Chinese knockoffs of things being made out of spare parts. If you want to argue that ubiquity is the reason this isn't the case, I urge you to go look for any consumer electronic on Amazon, Aliexpress, eBay, or whatever eCommerce site you like to visit the most. Take a look at, say, computer mice. You'll notice a dozen designs up there, with a hundred manufacturer names. These are third-shift frameworks. This is a commonly known, widespread phenomenon in Chinese manufacture.