Best linear motion actuators according to redditors

We found 25 Reddit comments discussing the best linear motion actuators. We ranked the 22 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page

Top Reddit comments about Linear Motion Actuators:

u/Crabbity · 5 pointsr/boating

300lb 12v linear actuators for solar are my goto... waterproof, powerful and last for years. They auto shut off at both ends, and simply wire to an on/off/on switch.


https://www.amazon.com/ECO-WORTHY-330lbs-Tracker-Actuator-Multi-function/dp/B00NM8H6VS/

u/SirEDCaLot · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

Short version- it's probably cheaper to buy a 2nd robot vacuum, unless you go total DIY route.

Medium version- Unless the hallway is an outside hallway (IE one of the hallway walls is on the outside of the house) you probably aren't wasting any money heating it. If the hallway is surrounded by heated rooms, then the hallway itself won't bleed much heat except maybe through the ceiling and that's probably to another apartment.

Long version: Locking and unlocking doors is fairly easy. Unlatching doors is a bit harder- motorized doorknobs aren't really a common thing so you'd need an electric security strike plate. That would probably require cutting out a lot of the door frame to mount it. Then you have the issue of actually opening and closing the door. It has to open and close with enough force that it pushes the latch through the strike plate, but also should have some safety mechanism so it can't cause any harm to a human or pet. That's one reason why automatic door openers (like you see at the supermarket) are quite expensive- you need a powerful motor but you also need a bunch of sensors to stop the motor before it does any damage. Those things are quite expensive and require custom mounting. They're also fugly- this is the smallest most attractive one I could find and it's $530. You could use something more like an automatic gate opener but that's still $289.

If you were to do this, the DIY route is probably the way to go. The strike plate is easy enough, you can get that on Amazon for $23. That just needs 12vdc to unlock it. The opener is the harder part. You'd probably want something like a long stroke linear actuator. Alternatively you could make something using some gears and stuff- there are a few ways to do that.

But when you put all this together, you are still spending a good amount of money. Even if it's just $100 (which I'd put as the absolute bare minimum for this) how long will it take you to realize $100 worth of energy savings vs just leaving the hallway doors open?

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Sounds like you need an linear electric actuator.


Actuator

u/Kv603 · 3 pointsr/DIY

The website says the new model uses hydraulics, actually it looks like a gas ram, like you'd find holding up a car hood or a hatchback.

An electric-powered linear actuator could work, but they get expensive for the long ones.

u/Send_Pokemon_Gifts · 2 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

We just bought this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Homend-Actuator-Mounting-Recliner-Electric/dp/B07HNV39YL

So as far as I know, it just goes forward and retracts nonstop. We can make a type of end figure to attach to the windex handle and shoot everytime it goes forward.

u/babecafe · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

That's an interesting product. We had an old Velux skylight and replaced the entire skylight when the motor broke and replacement parts were too hard to find. That chain's a cool piece of work, as it can extend a large amount and retract into a small package. Skylights are on a hinge, not a slider, so all a motor has to do is push up was the weight of the skylight, and not have to overcome friction in the sliding frame. The Rollertrol product says it can do about 20 pounds of force.

You could look at "linear actuators" which can provide hundreds of pounds of force. Here's one that does 330 pounds: https://smile.amazon.com/ECO-WORTHY-330lbs-Tracker-Actuator-Multi-function/dp/B07H73VZGK I've been planning to use a linear actuator to make a video projector come down from the ceiling and hide away between uses. The trick on designing with these is that the distance they can extend is less than the length of the unit, in other words, the extended length is less than twice the contracted length. It might be able to open the window part-way, but not all the way open, unless the actuator was built into the wall above or below.

The rollertrol product is shown placed right in the center of the window to apply the force in a balanced manner.

If you had an actuator at each side, you'd have to make sure they stayed in perfect sync. If you used a product like: https://smile.amazon.com/WindyNation-Actuators-Connectors-Momentary-Maintained/dp/B07957BXR4

you could have a problem because whichever side needed more force would get slowed down, potentially making a sliding window bind up.

u/Kyengen · 2 pointsr/cosplay

I just made a pair for a hawkgirl costume. The hardest part is the lengths of the various arms. I had the wife stand against a large wall and I just put painters tape where I wanted the wing bones to go, measured that, cut some cardboard to shape for testing purposes and made the final structure from aluminum rods. Picked up a wireless controller and remote, a 12v battery, and two linear actuators.

Batterys: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MF70BPU/

Actuators: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P4TS694

Connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014H36SI8

Control box: https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Wireless-Positive-Inversion-Actuator/dp/B01A6D8L6U

Pneumatic actuators are faster but I like the extra control the electric one's offer.

u/thegreybush · 2 pointsr/DIY

The part that I don't understand is the gas spring. Are you envisioning a manual lock that will lock the bed at the top and bottom, and the gas shocks are intended to make it easier to manually raise and lower?

My thought would be similar to what /u/TW_2 suggested. If it were me, I would be looking at linear actuators. The longest ones I found in a quick google search have an 18" stroke length so I'm not sure if that gives you enough travel.

EDIT: I found this actuator with a stroke length of 30". This actuator will move 225lb, so if you're using four of them they should be enough to carry a bed and a few people.

u/prebres · 2 pointsr/arduino

You could use a linear actuator like this one Multi-function 50mm 100mm 150mm 300mm 450mm Stroke DC12V Heavy Duty Motor 1500N/330lbs Max Lift Load Electric Linear Actuator (150mm/6inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SAXKYV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QhuHybVSG77M1

Then the rate could be controlled via PWM.

u/TeamFlightPlan · 2 pointsr/battlebots

If I was going to make a beetle crusher, I'd probably get something like this and strip as much weight from it as possible. I'm not sure it would be competitive- if you settled for just grappling and put the extra weight towards better drive it'd probably do better. But that's what I think it would take to get through the top armor of most beetles.

u/simcop2387 · 1 pointr/arduino

Look up a linear actuator. Much easier to deal with for this sort of thing. https://www.amazon.com/Zowaysoon-Electric-Linear-Actuator-Controller/dp/B00SAXKYPA/

Run it at a lower voltage, with a current limiting supply so that you can increase the safety factor. How fancy you want to get to control speed will depend on the motor controller you use, but this should be fine with most arduino motor shields. It'll also be much simpler to mount and handle for the victimsubject of the experiment.

u/brock_lee · 1 pointr/whatisthisthing
u/with-the-quickness · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

> It also probably has end of range limit switches - one can but hope.

It does, it says so in the description.
For my application it needs only to fully extend and fully retract, nothing needed in between. But you're right it is overkill for this project, I'm going to see if I can find something less powerful and cheaper

For example, this one is cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Linear-Actuator-Stroke-Lift/dp/B00HYE82Y6/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1495649762&sr=8-19&keywords=actuator+14+inch

It says "Built-in clutch prevents over-extending and over-compressing."

Is that the same as a limit switch or different?

u/AbsentMindedMedicine · 1 pointr/Workbenches

WINDYNATION 12 Inch 12" Stroke Linear Actuator 12 Volt 12V 225 Pounds lbs Maximum Lift (Includes Mounting Brackets) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P4U556U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DF-qzb74JZBBW

I also used the Firgelli feedback actuator on a different project a while back. It is double the cost, but the feedback would have been great for this build.

u/laxdudeee · 1 pointr/arduino

I am trying to teach myself about using low level logic to switch higher current devices. So here is the project. I am building an automatic door opener for my brother's chicken coop using this 12" actuator. You reverse the polarity to drive the arm in/out. It was very nice out today in the Boston area so I decided to free-hand my project design rather than sit inside ;)

Here is my drawing. I need to know what other stuff I need to add to protect everything. I know that I need some resistors from the arduino pins so I don't draw too much current. I think I also need some pull-down resistors on the actuator-feed relays, or would this be the job of a capacitor?

Edit Here is a reference to the automotive relay I am using.

Thanks in advance!

u/anomalous_cowherd · 1 pointr/AskEngineers

This one should do the job. In the related items is a kit of relays and an up/down switch to control it nicely.

u/BrakemanBob · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

OK... I did some research and it sounds like servos are going to be near impossible for this type of receiver.

But what about a LINEAR ACTUATOR? Albeit slower, they are basically "Connect positive and negative and it goes up, switch them and they go down". Would that type of receiver I listed work?

I tried emailing the company and no response. I'd like to just buy one but the Mrs is started to raise an eyebrow to my garage projects lately.

u/CAreadin · 1 pointr/amazonecho

How about rigging his chair with an Echo Dot (gen 2). Gen 2 is cheaper and has USB power so you can power from either the chair or a Mophie juice pack. Tethered to his phone for connectivity so he can take Alexa with him when he goes out?

For the garage door ...If chamberlain didn’t suck by not providing a free skill I’d suggest the MyQ for about $60. However maybe can figure out another way to open and close by voice. If he already has a Zwave hub like SmartThings wonder if you could use this relay, along with a linear actuator to press the garage button using voice. Create a routine: when I say Alexa open garage, turn on relay, which powers the actuator and presses the button. Seems like this would work and now I kind of want to find a button to press at my house to try it. Can vouch for this working just throwing out some ideas for people to weigh in on.

Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YBn7BbX000B54

ECO-WORTHY 12V 2 Inch Stroke Linear Actuator 330lbs Maximum Lift with Mounting Brackets (12VDC 2'') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NM8H5TG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lRn7Bb3459MZV