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It all depends on what type of builder/crafter you want to get into. Buying all the "machines" and tools for someone that would be a foamsmith but you're really a needlework kind of person makes it a potential waste of money and time (and vice versa).

IF you want to get into an overall crafting/building in general, here are the tools and materials I've gathered for my workshop:

I'm gonna put the word **Optional** for the items that are not completely necessary for first time builders, but definitely worth while down the road.

• Breakaway blades - You can get a pack and break away the blade once it dulls or no longer sharpens.
  
• Rotary cutting wheel - for quick fabric cuts https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-195210-1001-Comfort-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B000B7M8WU/
  
• Kershaw Sharpening stone - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WALUV6/
  
• Dremel (or rotary tool) - I've seen these go for as low as $30 for one that has 2 speeds. Since it's mostly for costuming, the 2 speeds is plenty.
  
• Besides the Dremel, if you can, pick up a Belt Sander **Optional** from Harbor Frieght (particularly when it goes on sale and they issue a 20% coupon) I got mine for around $50 and it is a time saver!
  
• Heat gun, I picked one up from Harbor Freight and it was under $10 at the time. It's still going strong and I have had no issues.
  
• Wood Burning Tool **Optional** - This will help you add some great details on the foam. There is a good starter kit also that contains a bunch of nibs, including a soldering nib, as well as a hot knife attachment. The hot knife will cut through foam like butter. One note though, if you don't plan on getting a separate dedicated hot knife, use the one that comes w/ the kit for the finer cuts. The wood burner is a very versatile tool!
  
• For the glue. I would suggest Barge Contact cement or DAP Weldwood. This is what I use and it's proven to be a great option. Hot glue is still very helpful and can be used for quick fixes or adding additional bond. My only reason for not using hot glue for foam is that it takes time to cure and you have to hold it in place. Also, sometimes it creates messy seams.
  
• Kwik Seal paintable caulk or flexible spackle - to cover up the seams you can use either of these. Difference between the two, 1) the caulk needs to be smoothed out before it dries, you can use water. 2) the spackle can be sanded after it dries if you don't apply it smooth the first time.
  
• On the topic of concealing seams or general sculpting, you should look into Foam Clay. It is very malleable and once cured overnight, it's basically shaped foam.
  
• Mod Podge or Flexible Clear Coat spray **Optional** - To coat the finished and painted product, you will want to use something that will protect it and also be flexible. Unless, you want it to be very rigid, you can use Epsilon Pro to coat it, but I can't guarantee that it won't crack. Especially areas that will need some flex. I say this is optional because some crafters don't do clear coating.
  
• Eye Protection & Mask - you don't want fine bits of foam flying into your eyes or lungs. Make sure you get eye pro and a good fine-filter respirator.
  
• Sewing machine - I'm not a needlework expert, but having one is great for sewing straps, hook & loop, minor clothing, etc... Obviously if this is more your expertise, get one that you know you'll love and have great use of.
  
• Cutting Mat - Useful for both the foamsmith and the needlework crafters. I've used both the Fiskars and the US Art Supply brands. Personally the US Art Supply one is way better IMO. It holds up to more cuts and abuse.
  
  Here are some helpful options for your search for EVA foam. Hopefully one of the stores I list here will be some-what local for you. Home Depot, Lowes, 5 Below, BJ's, Costco, Walmart, & Harbor Freight all carry the EVA (floor mat) foam. I have personally purchased and used foam from all of these locations.
  
  
• Your standard craft foam (from craft stores like JoAnne's or Michaels) will be anywhere between 2mm - 6mm. These are great for accent pieces or adding fine details. Keep in mind anything under 8mm will need some sort of rigid structure in order to maintain a good shape for armor. (like cardboard or something) FYI - Joanne's now carries the Yaya Han branded EVA foam mats in various thicknesses.
  
• Harbor Freight has 4 (24"x24") tiles for $8.99 and sometimes have an additional 20% off coupon circulating around. The back of their EVA foam is a standard heat treated texture. They also carry a 72" long (8mm) foam roll with a heat treated diamond patterned back for $9.99.
  
• At BJ's & Costco, I've bought some from these places as well, they carry 8 (24"x24") tiles for $9.89. But people have complained of its quality. (I personally have never had any notable issues with them.) The back of their EVA foam is generally heat treated usually w/ a diamond pattern.
  
• Home Depot & Lowes carries the 4 pack (25"x25") anywhere between $20 - $25. The back of their EVA foam is a standard heat treated texture. Though these seem fine, they are more expensive and are just like the ones at Harbor Freight.Walmart carries a 12 pack (24"x24") for around $18 - $20. The back of their EVA foam is the typical heat treated texture.
  
• 5 Below carries single tiles (no packs) (multiple colors) for $5.00. Same as the others, standard heat treated texture on the other side.
  
• TNT Cosplay Supply carries various sizes and thicknesses of EVA/Craft foam without the heat treatment backing. This is especially good if you don't want to have to deal with sanding down the heat treated backing to help glue adhere better. They are more expensive, but the quality is always great.
  
  Helpful links from the masters: Evil Ted Smith , Punished Props , Odin Makes , KamuiCosplay.
  
  Hope this helps.
  
  *note some prices are subject to change*

I think without totally removing them you'll end up just having to cover the whole shield with something else to get a perfectly smooth surface unfortunately. If you want to stay with a clear material, try looking up "clear acrylic skylight domes". You would have to make the handles but that's not super difficult.



If you want to go with metal, look up the "Flexible Flyer Steel Saucer". Here's an amazon link, but I'm in the US so you may do better searching for it yourself: https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Flyer-Saucer-Slider-Winter/dp/B0006N8WYM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_200_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2RPS2NDVWKB7EPVDQ40R

If you cut off the edge that's super rounded in, you're left with an almost perfect captain america shield shape that's actually metal. Strip away the paint and polish the steel, then go in with an "anodized aluminum look" spray paint (Dupli-color is a good brand). This will give you a great shiny painted metallic finish look. Make sure you clear coat everything once you're done so the steel won't rust.

I would suggest EVA foam. It is easy to work with and CHEAP. You can often find it at hardware stores as workshop flooring. Harbor Freight sells them in packs of 4 big tiles for $10...which is more than enough to make a large sword. I love Harbor Freight for cheap hardware stuff... check them out if you have one around.

Basically, this stuff;

http://www.amazon.com/We-Sell-Mats-Anti-Fatigue-Interlocking/dp/B001EJI6CK/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_0_1

It is easy to cut into desired shapes. You will probably want to add some sort of boning for support (wooden dowels, bent coat hangers, whatever). Judging from the Zabuza sword you want to make, you might need more of a mop handle support.

Before painting it, you will want to seal it. This is best done first with heat to melt a lot of the foam cells on the surface closed. I used a cheap heat gun I got for $15... its like an industrial hair dryer. A hair dryer would probably work to if its hot enough at close range. A very quick brush with a blow torch has been used for this purposed. You want to hit it just enough to make it a little shiny... not deform the top. I suggest cutting out a small tile to test with first.

After the melt sealing, I suggest going over it with Modge Podge craft glue (from any hobby shop... Hobby Lobby, Michaels, ect). Once that dries, you can prime and paint!

There is a useful EVA foam tutorial series that you might want to look at,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXxDfv2NaDY

Best of luck! I'm having a blast working on my DragonCon costume now. I'm doing an armored version of Captain Harlock from the old Galaxy Express animes.

There are some good tips already here but part of getting the look right is having the right products so here are some great ones I have used and some I'd like to use:

Ben Nye bruise color wheel for those nasty reds, purples and especially the yellows and greens you wont find in normal make up.

Ben Nye stage blood in zesty mint for liquid or oozing blood. Edible is a must if you put it in your mouth but keep in mind this does not dry! If you put it on your face or knuckles and then accidentally swipe something it will get everywhere.

Scaring liquid to create small cuts, perfect for a split lip or eyebrow this product shrinks and creates a depression in your skin so it actually looks like a chunk of flesh is gone.

Scar wax is great if you want to build up a broken nose or puffy black eye but it is very sticky and needs to be powdered with either a setting powder or a foundation.

Also here is a pretty good video on how to use these products. Its only missing the scar liquid which you could just lay under the split lip and eyebrow.

Good luck and try not to get blood on Stan Lee!

Seconding got2b Freezing spray - works really well. Remember to start with a bit and add more if you need to.

If you need to cut it, you can start off with cutting with scissors if you have a bunch, but finish off with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Diane-D123-Tinkle-Hair-Cutter/dp/B001DYM62C

Finish all the ends with that and make all small adjustments with it. It makes it look much more natural.

Speaking of natural, you can spray a bit of Cantu Shea Butter Sheen Spray at the end to make the hair less plasticy looking and more natural. Plus it smells really good. You can find that in most drug stores.

It's important to remember that wigs, when styled, will keep the shape that they cool in. They're plastic - if you heat it, you can shape it easily, but if it's still warm, it'll lose the shape when you stop styling it. Eg if you want curls, you should use heated curlers and let them cool in the wig before removing them.

Otherwise, I'd look for a tutorial targeted to what you want to do - spikes, big curly coifs, etc. You can use felt/padding to build around if you want to make something big.

It's spandex, so as long as you get a size that fits you, it will stretch comfortably and give you a full range of motion. Bodysuits are some of the most comfortable cosplays to wear!

I actually took my own advice and bought this belt on Amazon (plus two thigh holsters) for my Tigress cosplay. It would work just as well for Nightwing! I definitely want to do a fem!YJNightwing sometime in the near future, so I'll definitely use it for that.

If $25 is out of your price range for a quick costume, there's also this $15 utility belt.

Foam armor is an awesome idea, though with the costume due in just over a week, it might be tough if you don't have experience making foam armor. Look up some foam construction tutorials, and if you think you have time swing by JoAnn/Harbor Freight/Lowe's/Home Depot to get materials.

Oh, good point on the theater not approving of the escrimas. x) Better safe than sorry in that case.

Super cute! I love your makeup - you don't usually see people do blue eyeshadow for Miku but it really works!

I'd second the other commenter who mentioned the bangs. A good thing for bangs is a razor trimmer, if you run the ends of wig hair through one of those it helps it look neater and more natural. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Diane-D123-Tinkle-Hair-Cutter/dp/B001DYM62C/ref=sr_1_19_s_it?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1502434520&sr=1-19&keywords=tinkle+razor

Thank you! Of course, I'd be happy to help in any way I can.

The shield is actually a sled from Amazon, but it can be found on other sites too for about 25$.

While a dremel can be used, because of the extent of the sanding required I prefer some good old fashioned sanding sponges. Any mistakes that were made in the cutting can also be fixed here.

I used a Dewalt DW317K Jigsaw, and specifically a DM3778 Blade, though any blade that is small and fine will do nicely (the finer, the better).

The straps are belts with holes cut in them, and screws are simply glued onto the shield before a bolt is screwed in. This video explains what to do - it's not the most efficient way but the rest of the video can also be used as a guideline.

It probably took me a month and a half to two months, but I have been busy and had to take long hiatuses ranging up to three weeks at a time. You can probably buff the whole thing out in about two weeks (four days cutting and sanding), (four days painting), (two days attaching the straps), (two days repairing any mistakes and adding an optional gloss) with only an hour or two every night.

No need to apologize - your questions are great! PM me if you have any more! Best of luck friend.

Thanks! I got the wig from amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006OSZ00C/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

This is the first costume that I have sewn/made entirely by myself :) So I'm excited that people like it- it was certainly a challenge to make it, simple as it is. You're lucky that you have someone to sew for you!

Actually, his second guide tells you all about paint! His guides are VERY useful, and if you're interested, he also does a weekly Q&A livestream via Google Hangouts where you can ask questions about foam fabrication (among other things, usually) and he answers them right then and there! If you follow his Facebook page, he will post who his guest for the week (if any) is, and what time he's streaming.

I hope this helps you out! (To be honest, I'm not a big fan of making armor out of foam, but I've been giving it more of a shot lately. For the foam things that I HAVE made, I've used Plasti-Dip to seal, and then whatever color of spray paints I need, followed by acrylics for details/weathering.)

Edit - Formatting & a word

They make inkjet temporary tattoo paper. It seems to last a lot longer than any paint and wont smudge at all. Might want to give it a try. May need to re apply after a couple of days tho. But they are water proof as long as you dont rub them off in the shower.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043WJ3OA/

Tutorial video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1y4d-cmR1U

BTW great Jack Sparrow. I remember seeing you up at Phx Comicon.
I was Vega from Street fighter and I used a Body paint crayon (I got it from Arizona art supply) for the snake tattoo. It worked great for 1 day. It did smear a bit tho by the end of the day and would not suggest it for detailed things like tattoos. I plan on trying the temporary tattoo paper next time so I can get more detail. It seems to be the only other thing i could come up with.

For leather and vinyl, I recommend this. Not sure about it's availability in the UK, though, but maybe shipping from the US isn't too bad. The description says dye, but I've personally used this and it is much more like a paint.

For other, softer fabrics I recommend using regular craft store acrylic paint mixed with a textile medium such as this one, which can also be bought at your local craft store. Just follow the directions on the bottle of the textile medium.

I have had good luck with acrylic globes like this one from Amazon. they come in different diameters, and take paint well.

Thanks!

It's a "bargin outlet store". I don't think they have a site you can order from.

You can find EVA foam online pretty easily. Ebay and Amazon have plenty of options. Just Search for "EVA Foam".

Thanks :D Looks good, what did you make it out of? Or was that the foam...? Is it like this foam http://www.amazon.com/We-Sell-Mats-Anti-Fatigue-Interlocking/dp/B001EJI6CK/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_0_1

You can actually purchase temporary tattoo paper that you use in your printer, it's pretty great.

http://smile.amazon.com/Silhouette-MEDIA-TATTOO-Temporary-Tattoo-Paper/dp/B0043WJ3OA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412780655&sr=8-1&keywords=temporary+tattoo+paper

This stuff works like a charm for scars. Put on 10-15 coats, letting it dry in between, and you get a really nice scar. This is a test for mine.

Sure thing!! I don’t do much honestly. I make sure I moisturize my face, use primer, and I use this face paint in particular (I’ve gotten a lot of compliments; it’s not sticky or heavy):

Snazaroo 1118122 Classic Face Paint, 18ml, Light Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H6QQJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1KYsDb3PDFB9G

However, I leave my eyelids bare where I want to apply my eyeshadow (make sure to also prime).

Then I just contour on top! I haven’t tried a face setting spray because I haven’t really needed to but I would recommend that if it’s having trouble staying for you!

Wow, thank you!

I actually used printable tattoo paper and a vector I created of the tattoo. I actually have another tattoo under the elbow band that would be in the way if getting a full length arm tattoo, but I do like the design a lot.

I want to toss up a few helpful youtube channels before putting in any of my own learned experiences.
Punished Props, EvilTed, and Kamui Cosplay all have really good videos on tools, what they are good for, good techniques, how to make and use patterns, etc. I've watched tons of these videos and have learned so much from them.


I do my best to digitally size patterns to my height or arm length, or whatever the template is for.

Beveled edges in foam aren't too difficult. Just take a really sharp knife and cut. You can take a pen and mark where you want it to be hold your knife at the right angle, and maintain the angle while you cut. Please, feel free to practice bevels on scrap foam. You'll get better as you do it.
https://youtu.be/FnVdDso3E1I

On the top of cutting foam! Get a good sharpener to save on blades!
I don't know how familiar you are with foam work yet, but after a few cuts your blade will begin to dull, and your cuts won't be as smooth.
I can't recommend this enough.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WALUV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SMALDbKXB5112

This Kershaw sharpener has made my utility knife (the kind with the snap away segments) last YEARS. 100% worth the $12.

Typically the 6-7mm EVA foam is referring to those interlocking floor mats. These can be found at hardware stores like Home Depot or Lowes for pretty cheap. They typically will have a textured side and smooth side.

>https://www.amazon.com/Northern-Popcorn-Company-Bubble-Cotton/dp/B004DO32ZE

The size would work, but it's open on one side. The helmet I need has to be clear 360, so this wouldn't work :(

Yeah i read to maybe use a foam sealer of some kind before painting it, with maybe acrylic paint? This stuff??

I just used acrylic paint from the dollar store honestly, can't remember the name. But I used Delta Textile Medium https://www.amazon.ca/Plaid-8-Ounce-Textile-Acrylic-Ceramcoat/dp/B000XZTD28/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502212450&sr=8-2&keywords=textile+medium
to mix it with. Which basically turns any acrylic paint into fabric paint.

Heat Gun

/r/cosplayers is better for questions and advice

I did a SWTOR version of Darth Revan for Comic Con in 2015,here's the mask I did. it looks a bit different from the KOTOR version, but it's the same general look. I used a replacement lens for a plasma cutting face shield Like this one. I cut it with a tin snips and secured it by fitting the strip in between the layers of the mask before riveting them together. Since it's plastic, though, most glues would probably work too.

12 in. Clear Acrylic Globe - with... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00435HHC2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I think I would start with a standard face mask you can find in costume, hobby shops or online. Then build onto it with EVA foam strips/wedges and fill the gaps with a filler like paper clay.

That shape seems pretty conventional to me. Unless you're talking about the bicep cover, but that's a feature of some hockey pads. If those bicep covers aren't long enough, heat some EVA foam to a curve and glue or sew some fabric on.

Is that what you were asking?

So my mask was probably the biggest nightmare of the costume. Because I don't have access to a vacuum former I was having a hard time getting the shape right. I ended up buying a plastic mask off Amazon and airbrushing it with purple glass paint. I then inserted the mask into the helmet I had built out of EVA foam and cut it down to the right size and shape. I also tried colored tinting for automobile windows and had pretty good luck but they just don't make them in the right color of purple for Tali so I went the air brush route instead. Here is the link to the plastic mask (Disguise Costumes No Face Chrome Mask, Adult https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007S016WQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YeZPzbWKG3469) let me know if you have any other questions! Although I respond on Facebook much faster than Reddit (https://www.facebook.com/duoqcosplay/)

You can by premade bits like that. here's the one I have saved but it's chrome. If you can find a clear one, punished props has a video showing how you boil it with fabric dye to add a tint.

All the armor is EVA foam from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E4XL3E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5CuOub0KQ6CRS). The details are done in craft foam.

there's actually tattoo paper you can buy off amazon. Just size up the arrows and print on almost any printer. I plan on using this one for a future Riza Hawkeye cosplay.

Here's a thread from a year ago-or-so from someone that sent the design into a custom online store for temp tattoos (he says he e-mailed the company with the designs and got a quote so idk how much it cost).

If you can find high res pictures of the tattoo and access to an inkjet printer (though some people say they haven't had problems with laser printers in some reviews), you can also get temporary tattoo paper, and print them yourself.

Snazaroo Light Grey Face Paint!

http://www.amazon.com/We-Sell-Mats-Interlocking-Anti-Fatigue/dp/B001EJPGG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348670933&sr=8-1&keywords=eva+foam

3/8" is the way to go. I've been working with the foam for a few weeks now making Blood Dragon armor. You'll also want a Dremel tool with some different heads.

Also this:
http://www.schenz.com/fm_eva.html

Just use EVA foam mat and a heat gun to get that nice thick armor plate look. The mats are a bit pricey but i can say that the General Zod suit only cost me about $120 to make. Here is a link to the mats im talking about--- http://www.amazon.com/We-Sell-Mats-Interlocking-Anti-Fatigue/dp/B001EJPGG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381351392&sr=8-1&keywords=eva+foam

Posted in another comment elsewhere: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006OSZ00C/

Nope, you can buy the exact one here: http://amzn.com/B005V1RUFQ

here

here

here

here if your a lefty

here

https://www.amazon.com/Northern-Popcorn-Company-Bubble-Cotton/dp/B004DO32ZE

Dimensions: 21"W x 21"D x 14.25"H

?

Try
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005V1RUFQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1J9K2QQHL613R&coliid=I1H86VPU1CLMKH

and
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6SZA1K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1J9K2QQHL613R&coliid=I3FQ8JVFX4UEUH

Not the creator, but if I had to guess she went with the EVA foam floor matting method. All you need is a hot knife, a heat gun, and these cheap pieces of floor matting.

Hot Knife:
http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X73780-Precision-Soldering-Knife/dp/B000BRBZUG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347514744&sr=8-1&keywords=exacto+soldering

Heat gun:
http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Power-Products-503008-200-Watt/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1347514769&sr=1-1&keywords=Heat+gun

EVA Foam mat:
http://www.amazon.com/We-Sell-Mats-Interlocking-Anti-Fatigue/dp/B001EJPGG4/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1347514787&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=EVA+foam+mat