(Part 2) Best micriphone cables according to redditors

The "right" way to go from an unbalanced 1/4" instrument cable -> balanced XLR is to use a direct box. You can also get an impedance matching cable.

As for the cable you have, whether you bridge pins 1-2 or 1-3 is a matter of convention. Some systems consider #2 the "hot" pin and others treat it as the "cold" pin. See Wikipedia for more info

Ok, so you need a mic as well. Alrighty. I'm going to suggest you go a different route than pretty much what everybody else is suggesting. I personally dislike the all in one headsets, especially if they're marketed as "gaming", double especially if they are 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound.

If your priority is actually hearing things in game, and determining direction and such, you are better served with a stereo set that emphasizes the mid range and high end frequencies while de-emphasizing the low end. Low end boosting is an inexpensive way for manufacturers to make a cheap set of cans "sound" expensive, and while it can make movies and some music sound great it's not amazing for gaming.

Here we go with a 100 budget. I'm going to give you a buying list for a standalone set of headphones paired with a separate mic setup:

• Headphones: Superlux 668B - $38. https://www.amazon.com/Superlux-HD668B-Dynamic-Semi-Open-Headphones/dp/B003JOETX8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=superlux&qid=1568577791&sr=8-1
  
  • Open headphones provide a larger soundstage compared to closed back cans. These particular headphones share the same large drivers as the excellent AudioTechnica AD700's, which means you are getting a frequency response targeting the high end and mid range. The directional ability of these headphones can't be beat for under $50, and will challenge $100 to $150 cans.
    
• Microphone: Pyle-Pro PDMIC58 - $14. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GEBGA0/ref=emc_b_5_t
  
  • I would rather suggest the Behringer xm8500, but that mic's availability hasn't been great recently. If you can find it for regular price (around $20), it's worth the extra few dollars. The Pyle-Pro mic is more than adequate for gaming voice chat though. It will be miles better than any headset mic regardless. And it's also a dynamic mic, which means it will refuse sounds from your room or keyboard or mouse.
    
• Microphone boom arm: InnoGear boom scissor arm - $14. https://www.amazon.com/InnoGear-Microphone-Suspension-Adjustable-Snowball/dp/B01L3LL95O/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2ZTQGVRG0AY74&keywords=mic+boom+arm&qid=1568578206&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=mic+boom%2Cmi%2C174&sr=1-7
  
  • It's a desk mic boom. It stays out of your way while holding the mic in your face. What else do I need to say?
    
• USB XLR audio interface: Two options...
  
  • Inexpensive USB to XLR cable: https://www.amazon.com/Microphone-Tanbin-Converter-Microphones-Instruments/dp/B079DQ9ZPT/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+to+xlr&qid=1568578338&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-4
    
    • This will work just fine and keeps you well under your 100 budget. Which leaves you room for a better mic or different boom arm if you rather. Or maybe even a step up to the AudioTechnica AD500x headphones if wish.
      
  • Behringer UM2: https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-Audio-Interface-1-Channel-UM2/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=sr_1_21?keywords=usb+to+xlr&qid=1568578338&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-21
    
    • This is not necessary, and puts you just over your 100 budget. You do get a bunch more flexibility with it. For instance... you can plug your headphones straight into it. These interfaces tend to have great stereo separation and low noise floor compared to on board motherboard audio. You also get an extra input and nicer mic pre amp. Again not necessary, but well worth the extra $$$ in my opinion.
      
      There you are sir. A flexible solution that can come quite a bit under your budget. You get way better headphones than the gamer marketed ones and a way better and more flexible mic solution as well. Have fun!

You need a female 3.5mm to Stereo Dual Male Y Splitter Microphone speaker cable. You can find them for $3 on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Female-Splitter-Microphone-Speaker/dp/B00LGKG97G

Hope this helps.

u/Duhlongestline - I have rented the GH5 - and I used the wi-fi tether and my cellphone to see myself when I was in front of the camera. The 3.5" LCD is too small to see from more than 2 or 3 feet away.

For less than the price of a $1697.99 GH5, you can get a $1295 Pocket Cinema Camera plus a $136.99 Feelworld FW450 4.5" monitor that is a little easier to see.

The BMPCC 4K has better codecs, will be better for shooting at night - and will give you a built in pro mini-XLR mic input with phantom power (you can use full size XLR mics with an inexpensive cable).

Here is the BMPCC 4K shooting in low light.

Here are a few pre-release sample videos shot at 4K in 12-bit losslessly compressed CinemaDNG RAW:

• ​Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K ‘Mountain Bike’ by Joey Knox (4K)
  
• BMPCC4K Footage "Bubble Gum" filmed with Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K by Areia Creations (4K)
  
• ​BMPCC4K Footage “Dreamcatcher” filmed with Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K by Areaia Creations (4K)
  
• ​Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K : A Flower of Life by Sittipong Kong Tang (2160p - "making of" behind-the-scenes here)
  
• Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K ‘Nature’ by Mark Wyatt (4K - shot with Sigma 18-35mm and Rokinon 50mm Cine lenses)
  
  These were shot at 4K in 10-bit ProRes 4:2:2:
  
  
• ​“Sunset at Changi” (2018) x Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K by Clement You (4K)
  
• ​Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K ‘Balloons’ by Andreas Neumann (4K)
  
• Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K ‘Bugs’ by Peter Nearhos (4K)
  
• Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K ‘Models Walking in Daylight’ by John Brawley (4K)
  
• ​Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K ‘Models Walking at Night’ by John Brawley (4K)
  
• ​Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K ‘Models Close Up at Night’ by John Brawley (4K)
  
  In my view, the BMPCC is the best cinema/video centered camera you can buy in the sub-$2000 price range.
  
  If you decide to go with this camera, you might also want to subscribe over at r/bmpcc and r/blackmagicdesign - lots of knowledgeable folks there who can help you get the most out of the camera.
  
  I have one on pre-order and expect it in late September or early October.
  
  Hope this is helpful and good luck with finding the right camera for your needs!
  
  ​
  
  ​
  
  ^(Some of the links in the post above are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive a small affiliate commission. This costs you nothing extra. Regardless, I only recommend products or services I believe are a good value for readers. This disclosure is in accordance with the U.S. Federal Trade Commission’s) ^(16 CFR, Part 255)^(: “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising.)
  
  ​

You need the right type of XLR to 3.5mm jack to work properly. It sounds like you've got a balanced XLR to balanced 3.5mm TRS.

What you need is a balanced XLR to unbalanced 3.5mm stereo cable. This one should do the trick.

A simple cable like the one I linked doesn't actually unbalance the audio, it just discards one channel and sends the other to both the L and R on the 3.5mm jack. The reason you have balanced audio to begin with is that it means any interferance picked up by the cable is canceled out.

Ideally you should be using a recorder with balanced XLR inputs to get the best out of the NTG which would give you all the advantages of a balanced microphone. If you want sync audio you can use an attenuator cable to plug the output of the audio recorder into your camera's microphone input.

If you're not getting the effect on some videos then chances are it's a matter of how you edited those videos. You probably just fixed the problem without knowing it was even there by accident!

> Does anybody know why this is an issue?

The link /u/meateoryears provided should help decipher why - it's basically because your audio interface is connecting to the mic portion of the cable rather than the ground portion.

What you need is an adapter to convert from TRRS to TRS.

This looks like it would do the trick here: https://smile.amazon.com/Adapter-Little-Blinks-Microphone-Smartphone/dp/B01M0VN5W7/

TS to rca is likely (edit; guess not perhaps with more info from someone with the same interface) the problem as suspected.

https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Male-Adapter-Converter-Silver/dp/B01J33CGHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541741190&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=xlr+to+single+rca&psc=1

I think this is it, You can use TRS 1/4” to XLR3 cables/adapters then the xlr 3 to rca adapter

Bought these for my kids Sennheiser GSP 600 Professional Gaming Headset

Overall, pretty good. Comfortable, FAR above average fidelity for a gaming headset, mic is probably one of the best mics I've ever used that is part of a gaming headset. Again, my kids like them.

I personally don't like gaming headsets.

My personal gaming rig does not use "gaming" headsets.

I use regular low end audiophile headphones paired with a mixer + mic.

• beyerdynamic dt990 pro I prefer the open back headphones for the wider soundstage. VERY comfortable for long play sessions.
  
  
• FiiO E17K (E17) Alpen 2 Portable Headphone Amplifier USB DAC
  
  
• Yamaha MG10XU 10 Channel Mixer
  
  Again this is solely for gaming and not listening to music.
  
  For music it depends what I'm listening to but I have two primary set of cans.
  
  
• Sennheiser HD 800 S Reference Headphone
  
  
• Beyerdynamic T1 2nd Generation
  
  This is my primary amp for music:
  
  
• Sony Signature Series Audio Component Amplifier
  
  I caught the "headphone" bug so I've got tons of mid range cans too e.g. Sennheiser HD660, HD700, a couple of tube amps etc.
  
  Hope it helps.
  
  
  
  

Here is a more clear picture of what it appears you're trying to say:
http://www.aviom.com/blog/balanced-vs-unbalanced/

Transition from balanced to unbalanced in any professional/paid scenario should be done with some level of transformer/direct box: http://www.guitarcenter.com/Livewire/SPDI-Passive-Direct-Box-with-Attenuation-Pad-1274319718994.gc

For what OP is doing, it likely will be ok to just use a conversion cable, (I use something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Female-Adaptor-Adapter-Silver/dp/B01J33CGHY/ - ensure you select the right XLR end and RCA end for your application) but just saying "XLRs have better sound output" isn't inherently true.

a patch cable like this. https://www.amazon.com/Seismic-Audio-SA-Y5-Splitter-Female/dp/B00DS1NDUW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479162427&sr=8-3&keywords=xlr+to+rca

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B077VQ28J2/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A 10ft CableCreations cable with a male 3.5mm jack and also a male xlr connection.

Will be plugging into a phone/computer to play music, then send back into the interface to record it.

Hoping it works

Pretty basic setup. Blue Yeti mic connected (USB) to an HP laptop. I record with Audacity. I used Goldwave for a while (got a 1-year license to try it, rather than buying it outright), but found that Audacity did everything I needed, plus it was free. 'Pop filter' is some paper towel held in place over the mic with an elastic band. The mic sits inside an empty copy paper box, standing on end, packed with towels. It might not be pretty, but it works!

I'm actually considering dropping a few dollars on an arm stand and shock mount setup to make things a bit tidier around here. Though I wouldn't need the cable included in that kit.

Thanks, I really appreciate that. The speakers should arrive tomorrow and the sub on Thursday. So far, I've got two sets of these Male XLR to Female XLR and one of these 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4.

I use a standing desk thats about 5 ft wide, so I figured just put a speaker on each side of the desk and the sub on the floor. I'm sure this is a naive question, but what more is there to consider acoustically without going nuts and spending a bunch of money?

Hey all,

I'm getting ready to go big on a microphone setup, but I want to get a few extra opinions on the hardware that I have selected to make sure it is both sufficient for each other as well as the best price to performance. I'm really looking for some GREAT quality but not needing something for full on production.

-----

Here is a list of the items and below is a screenshot of the cart if people don't want to click on the individual links.

Audient iD14

Shure SM7B

CL-1 Cloudlifter

RODE PSA1

LyxPro Balanced XLR Cable 6 ft

LyxPro Balanced XLR Cable 1.5 ft

-----

https://i.imgur.com/T08p76s.png

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B072V3WLMJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00824HCAM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>line in on the computer

I don't think I have that?

I don't know for sure that your original idea is a no-go, but I would be surprised if it works -- I've never heard of being able to just split a USB device onto two computers/hosts (the closest thing I can think of is to use a KVM switch to share a keyboard/mouse between two computers.)

For the XLR solution, you'd need:

• XLR mic (like a switched SM58 for example, but really there are tons of options)
  
• XLR splitter (you can just get a cable assembly splitter, but if you're willing to spend a bit more you can get an isolated splitter which has the advantage of reducing the chance of hum from a ground loop and also eliminates any problems that could be caused from phantom power which I'll mention below.
  
• XLR cables -- lengths as needed. You'd probably want three, one to go from the mic to the splitter, and then one from each output of the splitter to each USB interface.
  
• 2 x USB interface -- you don't need to be fancy. I see this one recommended, but there are probably cheaper options. The interface I linked comes with the necessary USB cable.
  
  Caveats:
  
  
• I don't know anything about the PS4, so I'm just assuming that this USB interface will work with it. (I see a few comments in the Q&A on Amazon that it does work.)
  
• Having two devices send phantom power down the same line can sometimes be problematic for those devices and/or for the microphones. I don't know enough to know exactly how those problems would manifest themselves, if at all, but if I were trying this setup for myself I'd use the isolated splitter to be on the safe side, because the splitter won't allow phantom power to pass out the isolated output.

Okay, so I've changed my mind a little bit. Try this Alto 15" powered speaker instead. Its cheap, and should be able to get low and loud enough. Do you usually get a monitor feed from the board? If not, you'll need to buy a little xlr splitter cable and split the signal from the kick mic to your speaker. Also, a polarity switcher will be handy. Depending on where you put the monitor, you may need to reverse the polarity of the kick mic since you are behind the kick drum and the mic is in front of it. Try it both with and without the polarity switch and see which one sounds beefier to you. This awesome Dave Rat video on the subject is helpful.

Found this one which ships to Sweden, however the shock mount does not seem to work with it. Are there any ways of not needing a shock mount to begin with? Can you just use the arm and put it on a separate table or something?

So, a headphone splitter will only feed outward from a source, you would not be able to capture a microphone and feed that into a computer to mix into your stream. And like I said, if you want the best quality, have 1 mic per person.

For up to 4 mics I would get these microphones: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KZAKS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=292074DNOL1VR&coliid=INXXPO6Y015HZ

This audio mixer, which will only connect up to 4 microphones via XLR: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O517IW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3QOBG8ZG11MY7&coliid=I2FAJU33T9L7ZR

Something like these for XLR cables: https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Foot-Female-Microphone-Cable/dp/B00X7YJUGG/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1492408487&sr=1-3&keywords=xlr+cable+4+pack

And these stands for the mics: https://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PRO-PMKSDT25-Adjustable-Desktop-Microphone/dp/B005MII5MK/ref=sr_1_10?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1492408533&sr=1-10&keywords=mic+desk+stand

Cheapest option (need enclosure): http://m.ebay.com/itm/262029478461?_mwBanner=1


Other option if you don't need remote volume control:

http://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Balanced+passive+preamp&isNewKw=1&isRefine=true&mfs=GOCLK&acimp=0&_trksid=p2056088.m2428.l1313.TR0.TRC0.Xbalanced+passive+preamp&sqp=balanced+passive+preamp one of these


https://www.amazon.com/Seismic-Audio-SA-Y5-Splitter-Female/dp/B00DS1NDUW

These to convert xlr to stereo rca

You can also diy with this:

http://www.mediacollege.com/audio/connection/images/XLR-2xRCA.jpg


Most finished option:

http://www.khozmo.com/balanced_wo_input_selector.html
And those balanced to rca adapters

It's a dynamic microphone, so there's not going to be a problem with phantom power. That was my first concern. Other than that it should work, but you probably want an XLR to 3.5mm cable (Links: US | UK) instead. Also, why don't you just connect directly to your phone and remove the wireless system, if you're already using a wired microphone?

^This ^post ^contains ^affiliate ^links.

ah my bad i thought you were using a mic and had that problem when using an XLR to 3.5 mm cable

this one worked and this one didn't

okay brother so far this the set up i got in my cart is there anything im missing?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNZF99T/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1BS2LGJ63FMIS&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X7YJUGG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AB3RH2VK84JRX&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019OO4IY6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3T95V05QKJ0CN&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NJ2TIE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QHURLHM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=AV80KMVI6ZWQL&psc=1

Since that's an XLR mic, so you need an XLR to USB ADC. This one is cheap and fairly well rated. You can go even cheaper, though the quality will likely be quite poor. Then again, your good mic with even a $10 ADC will likely be at least as good (probably better) than the sort of cheap-ass headsets that most people use for such purposes.

Which kind of forces the question of why you want to use a nice mic just to communicate in chatrooms. You can get a cheap-but-decent wired gaming headset for under $20 and save your nice mic for whatever you normally use it for.

You will need this cable to connect whatever is your source (ipod, phone, chromecast) to the sub.

And a pair of this to connect the sub to the speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio2000s-Acc3100-Impedance-Matching-Transformer/dp/B00D9AI708 You might be able to using one of these with the 2nd instrument input if they can be used simultaneously.

You could do something like this:

• $99 Behringer USB Mixer
  
  
• $54 x 4 Audio Technica ATR2100 USB
  
  
• $13 5-Pack Foam Pop
  
  
• $26 5-Pack MF XLR Cables - 10'
  
  
  Then you just need mic stands. You could probably even find cheaper Pop filters and/or XLR cables, I just did a quick search. Those mics are both USB and XLR and they are actually pretty decent for the price, so not a bad investment. You might want to look at different mixers, but that Behringer is one of the most affordable USB ones. I prefer using a Focusrite, but those are 3x the price usually.
  
  Edit, those mics actually come with XLR cables! I forgot. Not sure if they are long enough, but they should work fine too. Although some pack in XLR cables are super cheap.

They're probably outside your budget. This would work and should be budget friendly:

6Ft XLR Female to 3.5mmm Mono Male Cable $5.99.
Headphones/Mic splitter TRRS, $6.99.
Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 Dynamic Vocal Microphone, Cardioid pattern, $19.99.
Total investment per person: $32.97

Edit: I'm assuming with this setup that everyone has a smartphone. If a newer iPhone, you'd need an additional lightning to 3.5mm adapter. Ugh.

You might have issues if it's a headset with mic (with a 4-pole TRRS connector). I have some Turtle Beach XO One's and I noticed that while it seemed to work, the sound was a bit weird - the vocals sounded slightly weird (like they were under water!).

I think it was because of the 4-pole connector on the headset. When I plugged the headset into an adapter like this and then the green plug into the Nitro kit (nothing is plugged into the pink end), everything is perfect!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap%C2%AE-Female-Splitter-Microphone-Speaker-Black/dp/B00LGKG97G/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QK1BK6J1M19GCNMG2TFX

It's gonna be hard to get it in under $75, but in your position here's what I'd do:

Get one of these Audio Technica cardioid lavalier mics. While it's designed to be a lavalier mic, it is directional and can be used on a boom when needed. This mic requires "plug-in" power and will work with most DSLRs. (Check your camera first). You can record on a smart phone with this adapter.

You'll also need an extension cable. While a headphone extension cable will work, one made for a microphone will be shielded and less likely to pick up noise. Since this is an unbalanced microphone, you should be careful to keep the cable away from any kind of power cord.

Because this mic is so lightweight you can use almost anything for a boom. I have used an old fishing pole, but a broom handle or even a straightened coat hanger will work. Let the mic hang straight down from the boom, leaving about 6-10 inches of cable. Hold it just above the people's heads, just in front of them, as close as possible without being in the shot.

I have used this mic on quite a few films and commercials (including a film that's now on Amazon Video) and the quality is remarkably good. Working on several films in Europe where it was essential to travel very light, this mic was a lifesaver.

That's about as close as I can come to $75!

Hope this helps.

Hey, my amp has a quarter inch input for a mic. If I had a miic like the shure sm58 which has xlr output, could I use a cable like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-Quality-Phono-Microphone-Cable/dp/B00824HCAM?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1 to connect the two , or is it not that simple?

Thanks

​

EDIT: From my brief research it seems I would need a transformer (e.g https://www.gear4music.com/PA-DJ-and-Lighting/Audix-T50K-Impedance-Matching-Transformer/ST8 ) to change the impedance of the signal - is this correct?

as for headphones I'm not really sure what to recommend, as there are so many options and I'm not sure what your preferences are, but maybe take a look at the Sony MDR7506 (these are ~$75 USD, but can be had for less in the used market as they have been in production for like 20 years) and the Phillips shp9500 ($70-80, open back, great all-arounder)

for the mic this is a very good and inexpensive setup, as long as your PC has decent built in sound card (I use this exact setup and often get compliments on my mic quality, you can't beat it for ~$40 total)

Mic: Behringer Ultravoice XM8500

Mic Stand: Innogear Mic Stand

Mic Cable: 3.5mm to XLR cable

sorry my prices are in USD, not sure about the price difference in CAN

Help me make a decision? Which XLR cable should I get? GLS or LyxPro? Any other you recommend? For my Audio Technica at2035 into a Focusrite Scarlett audio interface. I heard good things about mogami but that's too expensive

I have an AT2020USB sitting on the floor (next to a Rode Podcaster). Good mic. Sounds good. Still a condenser and still sensitive. Still better choices to be found that'll work for most and sound better.

I generally avoid everything Alesis and Behringer because they're cheap. Not just in price, but in components, quality, reliability, and sound... generally speaking. That said, I have no experience with that particular audio interface. The Focusrite Scarlett Solo comes well reviewed at around the same price (I think?). Steinberg also has an interface around the same price. If you're looking more for a mixer (that's what the Alesis is), then I'd suggest looking at a Mackie or Yamaha mixer. Chances are, you're going to be looking a lot more money than the Alesis, but you're getting superior preamps and overall better hardware and reliability. Just be careful to get one that's USB unless you want to go analog everything (if you're not an audio engineer with a high end sound card, don't).

Whether you need a mixer or an audio interface comes down to what you're going to be doing. The mixer can be helpful for effects, additional EQ, monitoring, multiple inputs, etc., but it's not necessary in most instances. For most, an audio interface with one or two inputs is sufficient--you can always upgrade later and sell the interface on Ebay (or some such) because they're always in demand.

Regarding stands, I use a Rode PSA1 and have no qualms recommending it, but it's somewhat pricey. If you need cheaper, the Neewer arm has good reviews, but I have no feedback regarding it. Pretty sure several people here use and like the Neewer arm.

For a pop filter, anything, really, is fine. Don't worry about metal ones or filters made of exotic materials--any cheap nylon screen works as well as anything else. You likely won't need a windsock, but you can find plenty of those on the cheap as well. (I suppose you could go with just windsock or just filter, but either should be fine--I just prefer a pop filter to a sock.) For the XLR cable, meh... not Monster? I use these--they're nothing special, just cables. Work/sound fine.

It's easy to spend a lot of money on this stuff, but if you have patience and time, you can save a lot by buying used. Most of my mics are used and they work perfectly well--generally speaking, people take care of those (and it's obvious when they don't).

XLR cables are all three pin DIN connectors for our purposes. One side is male and the other female. You can see the XLR sockets on the mixer. Something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Female-Microphone-Audio-Cable/dp/B00O5ELFU6/

Better made cables cost more, sometimes much more.

!

Have you tried this one?

Here's another, not sure if they ship to Europe though.

My current go-to in this price range is a mix of a Yamaha MG10XU mixer or Scarlett Solo interface with a Shure SM57.

SM57 is a really nice sounding dynamic mic for $100, and sounds pretty much equal to the SM7b and 58 in some videos I watched. This fuzzy thing will also act as a nice pop filter for it and is pretty cheap. I've got one of those big round mesh ones and it still lets some heavy Ps and Ts through, so look at some videos if you go that route.

I personally like to tweak with things in hardware, so i'd go with the Yamaha board since it has a ton of features, but if you just want to plug in the mic to something nice then the Scarlett is also fantastic. I've also been using this Neewer arm for about 6 years, and it does the job.

Headphones wise, I've used the AudioTechnica M50x a few times before and honestly they're the best headphones I've ever heard myself. I also see a lot of people praising the Beyerdynamic DT 990s too.

Many laptops will not work with TRRS jacks. Just grab a TRRS to TRS adapter